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First Fiero, now what? by DocJones
Started on: 03-09-2023 12:22 PM
Replies: 16 (438 views)
Last post by: WKDFIRO on 03-19-2023 10:31 PM
DocJones
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Report this Post03-09-2023 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DocJonesSend a Private Message to DocJonesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am a new owner of an '88 Formula (automatic) with 110,000 miles. I'm a novice vehicle mechanic, although I have a good mind for electrical and mechanical work from my career maintaining aircraft. What are some of the first things I should do?

Any inspections recommended? Or maybe insight on personal experiences and lessons learned after purchase? I.E. (If only I had checked blank from the start)

The car starts and runs well. I'm very excited to be a part of the community! Thank you for any input!

Edit: I will try to find time to reply and take more pictures! Here are a few quick ones.

[This message has been edited by DocJones (edited 03-09-2023).]

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David Hambleton
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Report this Post03-09-2023 01:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome to the fun!

First: Entry to the club requires pics (or it didn't happen, lol!). After all, we can't be sure what the car looks like... Feel free to include any history details, alterations etc.

Second: You'll get advice from "Replace every rubber part, moving part, ignition part, fuel system part, brakes, sensors, fluids etc." to "Drive it and fix it if it breaks".
Full disclosure: I'm in the latter category with a 1984 SE 4 speed since new with 396,000 km; a 1986 2.5L 5 speed coupe since 2011 with 147,000 km and a Formula 5 speed since 2008 with 48,000 km.
I do all the work that I can, resorting to a local classic car garage if necessary.
Your vocation qualifies you to make decisions you're comfortable with.

Third: Use the search feature to find a wealth of information herein. I find the factory service manuals very useful particularly when they actually match what you're looking at.

Enjoy!

ps Ensure the HVAC system is free of debris; some Fieros have burned down from the blower motor resistors igniting leaves and/or mouse nests.

[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 03-09-2023).]

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hyperv6
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Report this Post03-09-2023 02:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hyperv6Send a Private Message to hyperv6Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pull the plugs on the back side. Too often they get rusted in so check them now.

Then replace every year or two.

Just one area that generally can cause issues if you live in a non dry climate.

A swivel handle ratchet makes it easy. No the deck lid does not need to be removed.
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TheDigitalAlchemist
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Report this Post03-09-2023 02:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TheDigitalAlchemistClick Here to visit TheDigitalAlchemist's HomePageSend a Private Message to TheDigitalAlchemistEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:

Ensure the HVAC system is free of debris; some Fieros have burned down from the blower motor resistors igniting leaves and/or mouse nests.



This is essential! I have yet to come across a Fiero that didn't have a decent amount of stuff in there. Also make sure the engine bay is "free of debree" leaves and whatnot.


Pics of the engine bay and underneath can help us offer morearmchair advice.


check under the corners of the trunk (pull up the carpet) just to check for rust...

WELCOME!
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Jake_Dragon
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Report this Post03-09-2023 02:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Drive the snot out of it?

I will assume rust and damage are not an issue.
How does it drive?

Check all lights are working
Check tires for age and defects
Change the oil, air filter and fuel filter
Spark plugs and wires
Brakes, brake fluid.
Check the fluid level for the clutch
Check battery and power distribution blocks for corrosion and broken or burnt wires

Start there, drive more snot out of it.
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Patrick
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Report this Post03-09-2023 05:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DocJones:

What are some of the first things I should do?


Check for spare change inside the console. It's often a goldmine down there!



Usually lots of goodies under the seats as well.

By the way, congrats on doing a good job posting images. It's amazing how many people totally screw up the process and have images in the middle of sentences etc.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-09-2023).]

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zkhennings
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Report this Post03-09-2023 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice car, check your grounds! 80s electronics are sub-par, if the block and heads are not grounded well it causes all kinds of gremlins.

I would maybe toss a new belt on there or at least in the trunk so it doesn't leave you stranded. Try and find a NOS ICM, they are a known common failure item, it is good to have one on hand.

There is also a 2 wire harness that goes from gray plug on ignition coil to the ICM, this is a common failure also (these things are all right next to the exhaust). It is a good wire to jiggle first if it cuts out on you at some point. You can buy them new from Fierostore or make your own.

And finally, there's a nest of PLASTIC vacuum lines under the top intake manifold, they are notorious for getting brittle and cracking and causing issues. I think I made new ones out of brake line back in the day.

I would also do a visual inspection of everything else to make sure nothing is obviously wrong with it, things being loose, things leaking, things missing clamps, soft or rock hard hoses, unacceptable rust anywhere - especially the front legs of the rear subframe, the design holds water.

Good resources for specialty parts are the Fierostore and Rodney Dickman, as well as various members.
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Kitskaboodle
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Report this Post03-12-2023 08:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KitskaboodleSend a Private Message to KitskaboodleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Always make sure your dogbone is in good order.
Cap, rotor & ignition wires in good shape?
Fuel filter old? Replace if not known.
Water pump bearing/shaft nice & snug? No weeping? Front wheel bearings tight?
Oil/ antifreeze / tranny fluid leaks?
Tranny filter serviced in last 30-40K? If not known, change pancake filter and fluid.
Kit
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Report this Post03-14-2023 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
DocJones... Welcome...

You've got some reading to do.
Manuals in PDFs.
https://fieroinfo.com/

FIERO by Gary Witzenburg is a good read.

------------------
My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

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Raydar
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Report this Post03-14-2023 01:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Very cool!
One of my favorite Fieros, in one of my favorite Fiero colors.
Welcome to our obsession!

Since it's running and driving, I'd just pay attention to thumps and noises.
Fieros are known to clunk from the front. Frequently it's sway bar end links or bushings, or the bushing in the right end of the steering rack.
I'd check the ball joints. The last ones I replaced actually rattled after I removed them. (But I expected that, going in.)

If the brakes "creak" (an 88 malady) when you press and release the pedal, it's probably just the sliders need lubed.
All of my cars have had some or all of the suspension bushings replaced with poly.

As others have already mentioned, pull out the fan motor and the blower resistors, and make sure there are no mouse nests, or other debris, where it can cause trouble. (More then one Fiero has burned down because the blower resistor torched off a mouse nest.)

It's normal for the Fiero to get very warm (235F) before the radiator fan kicks on. Rodney Dickman sells low temp fan switches.
Also, filling the coolant is... interesting. It has to be topped off from the rear. Preferably with the rear of the car elevated a bit.

Otherwise, it's mostly just like any other 80s GM car.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-14-2023).]

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Jake_Dragon
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Report this Post03-14-2023 01:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Very cool!
One of my favorite Fieros, in one of my favorite Fiero colors.
Welcome to our obsession!


I know right, this tread is giving me the Fiero itch or perhaps that's the bushes out back...
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Report this Post03-15-2023 02:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My Two Cents:

If you have the previous owner’s preventive maintenance and service records, follow the Pontiac schedule.

If Not, I suggest flushing the anti-freeze because the Fiero coolant system is harder than most vehicles and it’s inadvertently neglected. Tip: DO NOT OPEN the plastic radiator drain valve! Most people don’t try to open the two drain plugs built into the coolant pipes under the car either. I normally remove the rubber hose next to the right coolant pipe drain plug to drain it. Of course, a new thermostat too….

I also recommend removing the wheels to check all of the brake pads/rotors, especially the rear. Check for pad thickness plus each set are wearing evenly; if not, it is an early sign that you need brake caliper work.

Enjoy,
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zkhennings
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Report this Post03-16-2023 09:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:


It's normal for the Fiero to get very warm (235F) before the radiator fan kicks on. Rodney Dickman sells low temp fan switches.
Also, filling the coolant is... interesting. It has to be topped off from the rear. Preferably with the rear of the car elevated a bit.




I have always had good luck with pulling the thermostat in the rear, opening the radiator cap at the front, filling at the rear until liquid is coming out of the front rad cap, close rad cap, fill the rest of the way at the rear, run the car with no thermostat and top off as needed, reinstall thermostat.
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Report this Post03-16-2023 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I agree that filling new coolant on a Fiero is out of the ordinary of newer vehicles; however the bigger problem is getting out of all the old anti-freeze. Since the flushing coolant ‘hassle’, I think many owners neglect it……

The cooling system fluid capacity of the 2.8L engine is 13.8 quarts, but when draining it, I measure approximately 7 quarts. This means that around 50% of the old anti-freeze is still in the engine block.

Since the engine block drain plugs aren’t accessible, several times of flushing is required; run the engine, cool it down, drain it, fill it up again, and repeat to clear the coolant system.

Obviously, the fully flushed coolant system has 7 quarts of ‘water’ in the engine block so don’t use a 50% anti-freeze/50% water mix. My flushing procedure is to use distilled water on the last two flushes (not ‘tap’ water) and fill the system with ~7 quarts of concentrate (pure/straight) anti-freeze.

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Report this Post03-16-2023 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I do think if you are pulling the cradle anyways, you can just undo the rad hoses up front in this position and get the vast majority out. The coolant tubes that run along the rockers do have drain plugs, but they are often frozen.

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hyperv6
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Report this Post03-18-2023 05:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hyperv6Send a Private Message to hyperv6Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The one thing to consider is replace many of the sensors.

My car has only 40k miles but I replaced most of the sensors this year and made a fig difference in how it ran.

It was not bed before but it did make a good improvement. The air control was stuck even at low miles.
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WKDFIRO
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Report this Post03-19-2023 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WKDFIROSend a Private Message to WKDFIROEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've always loved that color. My first Fiero was that color. I also have an 88 Formula (and an 87 GT waiting for an engine). Unless you know the previous owner did it, I would replace the fuel pump. Both the 87 and the 88 did that to me as a formal "hi, I'm a Fiero and I will break down." Had a friend at a local garage do it because I didn't have time. My Formula was very well taken care of with 289k miles on the original 2.8 engine. I've since put in a 3.4 (Fiero Doc here in So Cal put it in) and have freshened up the suspension. New wheels should be on this week if all goes well. Be very careful with the sensors, 30+ years will make most of them pretty brittle, most of my sensor connectors have had to be changed because of that.

Welcome! Some pics of my Formula...



[This message has been edited by WKDFIRO (edited 03-19-2023).]

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