There's not a lot of difference between an automatic and manual car. The biggest PITA is converting the pedals. I've done two of them. The clutch line follows pretty much the same path as the automatic cooler lines. Not a picnic, but not a crusher, either. The Isuzu has a fairly short 1st gear, and a larger jump between 1st and 2nd than the Getrag. The upside is that it has a good FDR and overdrive, and shifts much more nicely than most Getrags. I'm still thinking about putting one in my 4.9 car.
To compare different trannies go to fieroinfo.com Click on the speed calculator link. It has a large number of different transaxles in the dropdowns. You can also enter other values for speeds/gears. There's also a graphic at the bottom.
Hope you had Dash Cam etc to prove who hit who... Even front only D-cam can proves you didn't hit them w/o showing the hit. In many places if you can prove you got hit, Medical & car damage Cost is on other I-co even when you have "State Minimum" insurance.
Any think can be fixed, sorry but very likely No.
Because is dark pic to start & black parts, I adjusted Contrast & Brightness to see....
In Short: B pillar is F'd & most I-co's Will Often "Total" the car. Isn't like some fool hit me recently & damage plastic panels then I-co paid very little. In general, I-co looks @ "Book value" (Example: NADA Guides) @ damage > X% of that = Total. In NADA books, most cars > 25 years value Max is ~ $2000-4000.
Longer terms B pillar & likely "Rocker Panel" steel is pushed in. RP is structural & can affect other "frame" sections attach to it. Need to look under the car to see how bad. B pillar pushed is likely bent part of the roof too.
That's before adding need a new Door & other Plastic parts & Paint work.
Many Body Shops won't touch 20 year old cars let alone Fiero & most > 25 year old cars. For 1 often Can't get parts to fix them + dealing w/ rust etc causing more work. Isn't a DIY project even if can find another car to cut out needed panels.
If/When you sign off "Total" doc's the I-co owns it. You can buy it back but can't drive it in many places because have Salvage or related Title & "Canceled" current registration & tag. (Note that in Some States you can Transfer the tag to replacement vehicle & need right forms filled out before signing the "Total" to do this & You Remove the Tag(s).) "Total" then Fix for any reason in many places means big headaches to get the car on the road again. Many states have Special Inspection involving State Police etc. that go way beyond other inspection or states w/o safety inspection. Mean often you get the Total back as Parts Car.
This changes state by state and by insurance company. As example in Pennsylvania insurance companies are required to find two sources to determine the vehicles value. This is done by one "Book value" (NADA) and local cars for sale. Most company chose a radius with a similar market to you and then see all the same year make and model listed for sale in that area. Those are then averaged together with the book value to present a value. Obviously this is not possible / easily done with older vehicles so they do what is referred to as an offline valuation, which requires adjusters review title transfer and registration listings and find dealers that recently sold similar vehicles. They then take those numbers and average it against the book value. Going this method is typical beneficial for 25+ year old cars as they have switched from being used car lot vehicles to more collectable cars selling for more when they end up at dealerships.
Recently had a customer with an 82 Volkswagen Vanagon that was falling apart get hit total out. The car was junk prior and walked away with over 15 thousand dollars while keeping the van. Salvage value was super low ($300) but because dealers had them for a large some the settlement was high. Looking at local ones on facebook though you see them for sale for $2k in his condition to 25k for perfect examples.
As far as repair goes, like others said anything is repairable. This wouldn't have totaled the car in the 80's but time, parts and acceptable repair practices have changed. Ultimately its your car and your choice though I would agree a chassis swap is the best answer. I would look for a complete donor car in good shape as you don't know if the subframe took any damage or other parts under the car. You are also going to be looking at a full paint job likely to get a satisfactory repair ( Don't know how old your existing paint is or how the car is kept) so might as well get clean panels to begin with as well.
I am not sure how your state handles total losses, but if you plan on repairing that existing vin ask questions before allowing the adjuster to look, in Pennsylvania if the car is deemed a Total loss by the insurance company it is reported ( Supposed to be ) to Penn-Dot and the registration and tag will be revoked and will not be allowed to be reissued until the vehicle has completed an enhanced inspection (showing repairs were completed satisfactory) and you are issued a Re-Constructed title.
Once again also review your state laws and policy's for the right to independent appraisers and your right to dispute the settlement offer. Typically a good appraiser can argue on your behalf to increase the payout, this would be beneficial to cover cost on moving everything over to a clean frame and vin.
I would not personally entertain having the vehicle repaired at a shop for the same reason as the orge stated "Many Body Shops won't touch 20 year old cars let alone Fiero & most > 25 year old cars. For 1 often Can't get parts to fix them + dealing w/ rust etc causing more work." And if a shop is willing to repair it typically you wouldn't want them to as for the quality or the insurance wouldn't want to pay due to the price. A flat rate shop will not want to get into something without diagrams and procedures these days due to liability and time.
Just my thoughts as a licensed adjuster in PA having worked in shops and for the insurance company, I know there is an independent adjuster on here as well in Pennsylvania and he may have input as well.
[This message has been edited by Phirewire (edited 10-26-2023).]
I'd like a t-top car. Anyone know where I can get t-top seals at this point? You have the t-top glass themselves? Pictures of the car?
Edit: forgot, is this a manual car? I need to ditch my 4t65 and need a getrag or isuzu.
When I say chassis.....that's what it is...JUST the space frame. No interior....although the dash is there, in fact, the back glass has been removed to facilitate an MR2 curved back glass....back glass can easily be reinstalled, no changes to the space frame were made yet.
The ttop glass is all there, but I'd count on getting p-seals.
As I said, it is only the space frame....the cradle has been cleaned up, painted and has the N/A 3800 mounted on it with a 4T60E auto tranny behind it...it's what was in the car it came out of. I believe it was either a Bonneville or Park Avenue, but don't recall exactly ATM. More than likely, a 96' or 97' either way.
When I say chassis.....that's what it is...JUST the space frame. No interior....although the dash is there, in fact, the back glass has been removed to facilitate an MR2 curved back glass....back glass can easily be reinstalled, no changes to the space frame were made yet.
The ttop glass is all there, but I'd count on getting p-seals.
As I said, it is only the space frame....the cradle has been cleaned up, painted and has the N/A 3800 mounted on it with a 4T60E auto tranny behind it...it's what was in the car it came out of. I believe it was either a Bonneville or Park Avenue, but don't recall exactly ATM. More than likely, a 96' or 97' either way.
Yes, I have some recent pics.
HAGO!
Where are you located? I was assuming just a frame but was hoping for as much t-top parts as possible.
This changes state by state and by insurance company. As example in Pennsylvania insurance companies are required to find two sources to determine the vehicles value. This is done by one "Book value" (NADA) and local cars for sale. Most company chose a radius with a similar market to you and then see all the same year make and model listed for sale in that area. Those are then averaged together with the book value to present a value. Obviously this is not possible / easily done with older vehicles so they do what is referred to as an offline valuation, which requires adjusters review title transfer and registration listings and find dealers that recently sold similar vehicles. They then take those numbers and average it against the book value. Going this method is typical beneficial for 25+ year old cars as they have switched from being used car lot vehicles to more collectable cars selling for more when they end up at dealerships.
Recently had a customer with an 82 Volkswagen Vanagon that was falling apart get hit total out. The car was junk prior and walked away with over 15 thousand dollars while keeping the van. Salvage value was super low ($300) but because dealers had them for a large some the settlement was high. Looking at local ones on facebook though you see them for sale for $2k in his condition to 25k for perfect examples.
As far as repair goes, like others said anything is repairable. This wouldn't have totaled the car in the 80's but time, parts and acceptable repair practices have changed. Ultimately its your car and your choice though I would agree a chassis swap is the best answer. I would look for a complete donor car in good shape as you don't know if the subframe took any damage or other parts under the car. You are also going to be looking at a full paint job likely to get a satisfactory repair ( Don't know how old your existing paint is or how the car is kept) so might as well get clean panels to begin with as well.
I am not sure how your state handles total losses, but if you plan on repairing that existing vin ask questions before allowing the adjuster to look, in Pennsylvania if the car is deemed a Total loss by the insurance company it is reported ( Supposed to be ) to Penn-Dot and the registration and tag will be revoked and will not be allowed to be reissued until the vehicle has completed an enhanced inspection (showing repairs were completed satisfactory) and you are issued a Re-Constructed title.
Once again also review your state laws and policy's for the right to independent appraisers and your right to dispute the settlement offer. Typically a good appraiser can argue on your behalf to increase the payout, this would be beneficial to cover cost on moving everything over to a clean frame and vin.
I would not personally entertain having the vehicle repaired at a shop for the same reason as the orge stated "Many Body Shops won't touch 20 year old cars let alone Fiero & most > 25 year old cars. For 1 often Can't get parts to fix them + dealing w/ rust etc causing more work." And if a shop is willing to repair it typically you wouldn't want them to as for the quality or the insurance wouldn't want to pay due to the price. A flat rate shop will not want to get into something without diagrams and procedures these days due to liability and time.
Just my thoughts as a licensed adjuster in PA having worked in shops and for the insurance company, I know there is an independent adjuster on here as well in Pennsylvania and he may have input as well.
Good to know, its going to be a fight to get a proper value for this car. So what should I do next, hire an independent adjuster? This is a lot to take in right now, I'm preparing for maybe picking up a car this weekend.
Where are you located? I was assuming just a frame but was hoping for as much t-top parts as possible.
I am in S.E. Ohio, just across the OH river on I-77. Car is located 7 miles from exit 1 on I-77.
The cradle with engine is not mounted in the chassis. It has a make shift "straight axle" with hubs so it can be pushed around. It currently has the factory 88' wheels on it.
Let me know if you want pics. I also have the computer and wiring harness (adapted to the Fiero) for the 4T60E) There is a low mount alt. bracket as well.
HAGO!
[This message has been edited by Sage (edited 11-01-2023).]
Was just scrolling down- saw your new car on trailler.....and the dang spider was walking right along-side it...Looked like it was IN the picture...(Yikes!!)
And to the point above, start doing your own research on the real value of it... search completed EBay auctions, Hagerty marketplace auctions, even barret jackson if they sold something similar, etc. Search for real 'sold' values not craigslist wanted values or unsold buy-it-now auctions.
Was just scrolling down- saw your new car on trailler.....and the dang spider was walking right along-side it...Looked like it was IN the picture...(Yikes!!)
lol I thought that was a neat effect for a couple weeks
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
It looks like the coupe I had. Where'd you get it? North Georgia?
West Virginia. Frame doesn't look too bad, and I wanted a 5-speed car to swap to. It showed up on FB marketplace and felt I was lucky to go get it. Was running as recently as september, paid $2k which seems ok for a non-running '88 in decent shape. It has a duke that apparently ate that plastic timing gear between the crank and camshaft. Anyone know about fixing this? It could be fun driving the duke 5-speed this winter getting good mpg before swapping my 3800sc cradle over.
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
Congrats on your new ride!
Now, get ready for her insurance to insult you with their offer.
I'm expecting an offer of like $2k . Sorry for not posting more updates I was out on a week-long camping trip and didn't have cell reception. This was planned a couple months ago, and I was hard-pressed to go get the car that weekend and left Monday so I barely got to post that pic of it on the trailer.
BTW this is going to be a long drawn-out project, know of any guides for removing the body panels and swapping them over?
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
Bump for... updates? Pictures?
I'm hoping I'll get some pictures today before the sun goes down, was going to try to wash it before more pics, it was sitting in a gravel parking lot for weeks and its covered in dust, and now has a ton of leaves on it.
I need threads/guides on swapping the body panels, swapping the interior, etc if you guys got them
I wonder what the paint looks like, under all the dust. That's my favorite stock Fiero color. Either way... not bad at all. I paid $2500 for mine, including shipping. The suspension and brakes were completely shot, and it leaked so much oil I nicknamed it the Fiero Valdez.
The hardest body panels to swap will be the roof and rear clip. Everything else just unbolts. (The tail edge of the roof panel has to be raised a couple of inches to get the rear clip off. The front of the roof and the A-pillars are glued down with butyl rubber. You have to heat it up, and maybe separate it with a putty knife, or some such. If you're not careful, you will crack the roof, just behind the A-pillar. Don't ask me how I know this. )
Edit - The timing gear is kind of a b!tch. It has to be pulled off and pressed on. There are several write-ups here, and elsewhere, about how to do it. If the car only has 58K(?) on it, I'd be really surprised if that's what's wrong with it, though. Mine has 155K on it, and I don't think it's ever been replaced. At least it still has the plastic gear.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-08-2023).]
I wonder what the paint looks like, under all the dust. That's my favorite stock Fiero color. Either way... not bad at all. I paid $2500 for mine, including shipping. The suspension and brakes were completely shot, and it leaked so much oil I nicknamed it the Fiero Valdez.
The hardest body panels to swap will be the roof and rear clip. Everything else just unbolts. (The tail edge of the roof panel has to be raised a couple of inches to get the rear clip off. The front of the roof and the A-pillars are glued down with butyl rubber. You have to heat it up, and maybe separate it with a putty knife, or some such. If you're not careful, you will crack the roof, just behind the A-pillar. Don't ask me how I know this. )
Edit - The timing gear is kind of a b!tch. It has to be pulled off and pressed on. There are several write-ups here, and elsewhere, about how to do it. If the car only has 58K(?) on it, I'd be really surprised if that's what's wrong with it, though. Mine has 155K on it, and I don't think it's ever been replaced. At least it still has the plastic gear.
When it comes time to swap the roof over maybe GA fiero club people could help? I could provide a 12-pack of beer to get people to come over? Maybe a Saturday after 1 of the meets? Lol
Good news, I confirmed it’s a bad timing gear. Valve train doesn’t move when I crank it over. I believe the marketplace listing said it had 160k on it not 58k so it was about time for that gear to disintegrate.
Can’t I just pull the cam and take it to a shop to get the new gear pressed on? Doesn’t seem like a huge deal.
When I bought the 3800sc car I was actually looking for a duke fiero just because I had no experience with a duke Fiero. Even if they’re slow it’s a shame I’ve never driven one or ridden in 1 since I was a toddler riding in my dads 84. Most produced had the iron duke, it seems like to truly know the fiero should at least own a duke at some point. I’ve owned 5 and this is my first 1. It’ll be cool to just drive around town in it before getting my 3800sc cradle swapped over.
BTW what’s the deal with the oil filter on it? I know it’s some sort of cartridge, I see a huge round pan that comes off of the oil pan?
[This message has been edited by sdgdf (edited 11-09-2023).]
Originally posted by sdgdf: ... Can’t I just pull the cam and take it to a shop to get the new gear pressed on? Doesn’t seem like a huge deal. ... BTW what’s the deal with the oil filter on it? I know it’s some sort of cartridge, I see a huge round pan that comes off of the oil pan?
To pull the cam, you're going to have to pull the belt tensioner, pulley, and timing cover. You'll have to pull the valve cover, loosen or remove the rockers, and pull the pushrods. (Keep everything in order.) You'll have to pull the side cover (under the intake manifold) from the block, to get to the lifters. Probably easiest to pull the intake manifold, as well. Once you pull the lifters out (keep them in order, too) you should be able to pull the cam out. Be careful not to damage the cam bearings, getting it out and reinstalling it.
I'm not sure about how to "re-time" the cam when it goes back in. I would think there would be marks on the gears, but I don't know for sure. There are metal gears available - at least there were a few months ago. It's the same one used for the old OHV Chevy inline six cylinder. It will be more noisy than the fiber gear.
You will likely have to drop the rear of the cradle down, for clearance. ===
Yeah. There's a big plug in the bottom of the oil pan. It unscrews. Lisle sells a tool that grips the inside of the plug, instead of using a socket on the hex part. The filter "plugs in", inside the pan. It will need to be "tugged" out. Guaranteed to make a big freakin' mess. Not one of GM's brighter ideas.
2nd Edit - The gear can be replaced without pulling the cam, but it's a challenge. And you have to be careful to not knock the cam plug out, at the other end of the block. There's lots of info out there. I, OTOH, am going from memory of stuff I have read. I have never actually done this job. The farthest I have been into mine was to replace the timing cover, pulley, and tensioner.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-09-2023).]
Ok I got a response from their insurance after an appraisal this week. They say $3740.00 to pay me for seeking repairs myself and they don’t total the car. This sound good? To me it sounds alright, paying for my parts/donor car and $1740 and I swap over to the other frame?
I’m assuming if I can even find frame repair it’ll be $5k+ or something?
...paid $2k which seems ok for a non-running '88 in decent shape.
quote
Originally posted by sdgdf:
Ok I got a response from their insurance after an appraisal this week. They say $3740.00 to pay me for seeking repairs myself and they don’t total the car. This sound good? To me it sounds alright, paying for my parts/donor car and $1740 and I swap over to the other frame?
So... they're offering you $1740 over and above the cost of the donor car to cover all your labor and other (parts, etc) expenses? I dunno man, I wouldn't be happy. There's a lot of work and time involved to swap everything over.
So... they're offering you $1740 over and above the cost of the donor car to cover all your labor and other (parts, etc) expenses? I dunno man, I wouldn't be happy. There's a lot of work and time involved to swap everything over.
My labor I guess I consider to be free. They’re roughly estimating the cost of the parts damaged which I consider an ok amount. It doesn’t pay for totally fixing my coupe, but the car isn’t getting totaled so I get to keep this frame with a good title and maybe I can eventually find someone who can cut out and weld in frame so this title can be a duke beater car?
The $1740 will definitely help buy a new wheel and set of rear tires. And go towards paying someone to swap my cradle over.
I haven’t hired an independent appraiser. Should I still do that? I was wiped out for a week sick and had vertigo/dizziness and was almost bedridden so I had trouble staying on this.
Their appraiser seemed like a good guy, used to be a bodyshop guy and worked at GM dealerships back in the 90s. We talked a lot about cars, especially GM and he liked my Fiero a lot. Seems like he tried to set this up so it doesn’t get totaled. He acted like it can be fixed, and judged it needs that bit of frame replaced. But like people have said here he said I’d have trouble getting a shop to fix it, it being so old.
I originally expected some low ball KBB offer of like $2k, it getting totaled and having to do a buy back
[This message has been edited by sdgdf (edited 12-08-2023).]
The operative word there... is "their". The appraiser is working for the other guy's insurance company, not for you. Don't get sucked in by him seeming to be a "good guy". It's all part of the shtick.
Don't take this the wrong way... but are you a young guy... say, under 25 years of age? IMO they're trying to take advantage of your youth and inexperience in matters of this sort.
The operative word there... is "their". The appraiser is working for the other guy's insurance company, not for you. Don't get sucked in by him seeming to be a "good guy". It's all part of the shtick.
Don't take this the wrong way... but are you a young guy... say, under 25 years of age? IMO they're trying to take advantage of your youth and inexperience in matters of this sort.
I’m 37. I’ve never really had an accident before. This is my first time really dealing with insurance. I’ve drove a lot over the past 20+ years and I’ve avoided loads of accidents but this is the first time I’ve actually been hit. In my favorite car I’ve had too
[This message has been edited by sdgdf (edited 12-08-2023).]
Anyone else able to chime in on this? I need to make a decision soon. Last thing I need is them pulling back their offer and me having to fight to get any $$$. Its not like I want to get a lawyer involved just because I need more of a payout on this.
Honestly from their perspective this is a generous offer. The car is only worth its blue book and they don't have to consider any aftermarket parts. I was expecting them to consider it worth $2000 total, paying me that much and totaling the car. The agent who came out told me they were actually calculating the damage to my wheel and all the individual parts. That vs totaling it outright seems like a good deal to me. I really doubt there's some way to get paid what its really worth unless I had specialty classic car insurance and a prior appraisal and guaranteed value of the car from them.
Honestly from their perspective this is a generous offer. The car is only worth its blue book and they don't have to consider any aftermarket parts. I was expecting them to consider it worth $2000 total, paying me that much and totaling the car. The agent who came out told me they were actually calculating the damage to my wheel and all the individual parts. That vs totaling it outright seems like a good deal to me. I really doubt there's some way to get paid what its really worth unless I had specialty classic car insurance and a prior appraisal and guaranteed value of the car from them.
You definitely need to get an independent appraisal.
I got a "running" 85 Fiero 2m4 SE for $2k.
This is absolutely not a generous offer... YOU are not the customer, YOU are the plaintiff (and you can use that terminology if you want).
If you were the other person and had insurance on your car and they told you they'd give you "X," it's a different story. You're a totally innocent person who THEIR client (the defendant) hit you and caused destruction of your property. Property for which it is their responsibility to make you whole again.
They should pay-out what it would cost to purchase another Fiero in the same or better condition. This is the only "FAIR" offer. And then, if you decide you want to buy-back that old Fiero, you can negotiate the value for what it might cost.
Don't give in to THEIR insurance company. Honestly... and please listen... you can politely ask them if they would like to resolve this in civil court. Any one of those accident attorneys would jump at the opportunity to make a few bucks, for which their insurance company will be responsible... and they'll have to pay out a whole hell of a lot more.
You should be paid at least $5k for a well-running Fiero... probably more like $6,500 based on what I've seen on eBay and the car auction sites.
Anyone else able to chime in on this? I need to make a decision soon. Last thing I need is them pulling back their offer and me having to fight to get any $$$.
Not likely. What they want to do is wash their hands and be done, as quickly as possible. The longer you hold out, the more trouble it becomes for them. I've never seen an insurance company withdraw an offer.
Also keep in mind that any conversation that you have with them will likely be recorded. They are always looking for something - anything - that can work in their favor.
Not likely. What they want to do is wash their hands and be done, as quickly as possible. The longer you hold out, the more trouble it becomes for them. I've never seen an insurance company withdraw an offer.
Also keep in mind that any conversation that you have with them will likely be recorded. They are always looking for something - anything - that can work in their favor.
I was slow to talk to their insurance agent because I didn't want to make a mistake while speaking with them, and when I did it was so long they said they thought I wasn't pursuing my claim and they were going to close it out or something. That was about a month ago.
I hired an independent agent today, supposed to be here tomorrow afternoon. $150 to get them out. The guy apparently owns a bodyshop and they even work on older cars and said they'd work on the Fiero. No idea how obscene the cost would be fixing this car though.
Thanks guys I have no guide to follow doing this, other than this site and your help.
I was slow to talk to their insurance agent because I didn't want to make a mistake while speaking with them, and when I did it was so long they said they thought I wasn't pursuing my claim and they were going to close it out or something. That was about a month ago.
I hired an independent agent today, supposed to be here tomorrow afternoon. $150 to get them out. The guy apparently owns a bodyshop and they even work on older cars and said they'd work on the Fiero. No idea how obscene the cost would be fixing this car though.
Thanks guys I have no guide to follow doing this, other than this site and your help.
Good luck... let us know what comes of it... I'll be pulling for you!
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Good luck... let us know what comes of it... I'll be pulling for you!
Thanks, it looks really promising. I changed the alternator with 1 from pull-a-part and now the car idles fine, no more chewing up belts. Got the car towed over to the guys shop yesterday, they work on pretty much anything. BIG shop with a lot of bays and paint booths. They had a bunch of older cars they were working on, including the guy's late 70s Monte Carlo and a late 70's Trans Am so they're not shy about working on classic cars. He also started talking to the insurance agent and what it looks like, the $3740 was meant to get me started on repairs and they would actually pay more if it goes over. Now that I have a shop willing to work on it, they're going to get into fixing it and can do I think what he called a "supplemental" to get insurance to pay more if its going to end up costing more. If insurance maxes out and won't pay more without totaling it I can pay the difference out of pocket to get it fixed. This guy has a lot of experience dealing with insurance, and even used to work for this ins co I'm dealing with. He said that given the mileage, condition of the car, and how Fieros like this sell insurance should be able to pay $5k-$6k or more before totaling.
The main tech seemed optimistic about pulling the frame and fixing it, but they don't know for sure until they get the panels off which they're doing now. They also said they'd be fine with cutting and replacing frame using my parts car. HOPEFULLY it doesn't come to that, and I'll end up with 2 Fieros. The parts car isn't bad at all, has a title and it'd be nice driving that with the duke and 5-speed. It'd be nice having a 2nd Fiero to drive that doesn't drink 93 octane
Cooling finding this shop, I talked to 20-30 of them and one after another refused to consider working on something this old.
[This message has been edited by sdgdf (edited 12-15-2023).]
Originally posted by sdgdf: ... Got the car towed over to the guys shop yesterday, they work on pretty much anything. BIG shop with a lot of bays and paint booths. They had a bunch of older cars they were working on, including the guy's late 70s Monte Carlo and a late 70's Trans Am so they're not shy about working on classic cars. He also started talking to the insurance agent and what it looks like, the $3740 was meant to get me started on repairs and they would actually pay more if it goes over. Now that I have a shop willing to work on it, they're going to get into fixing it and can do I think what he called a "supplemental" to get insurance to pay more if its going to end up costing more. If insurance maxes out and won't pay more without totaling it I can pay the difference out of pocket to get it fixed. This guy has a lot of experience dealing with insurance, and even used to work for this ins co I'm dealing with. He said that given the mileage, condition of the car, and how Fieros like this sell insurance should be able to pay $5k-$6k or more before totaling.
The main tech seemed optimistic about pulling the frame and fixing it, but they don't know for sure until they get the panels off which they're doing now. They also said they'd be fine with cutting and replacing frame using my parts car. HOPEFULLY it doesn't come to that, and I'll end up with 2 Fieros. The parts car isn't bad at all, has a title and it'd be nice driving that with the duke and 5-speed. It'd be nice having a 2nd Fiero to drive that doesn't drink 93 octane
Cooling finding this shop, I talked to 20-30 of them and one after another refused to consider working on something this old.
I'm happy that you found this shop. All the "supplemental" stuff sounds familiar, from talking with John, over the years. If the insurance will pay supplementals, that's great.
I would try to make sure that any checks are made out to you and the body shop, or just to you. I wouldn't give them much of anything up front. (But I'm just cynical, that way. Others may offer different advice, and that's cool too.)
Sorry that I can't be more helpful. I'm not in a position to be very useful, just now.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-16-2023).]
I'm happy that you found this shop. All the "supplemental" stuff sounds familiar, from talking with John, over the years. If the insurance will pay supplementals, that's great.
I would try to make sure that any checks are made out to you and the body shop, or just to you. I wouldn't give them much of anything up front. (But I'm just cynical, that way. Others may offer different advice, and that's cool too.)
Sorry that I can't be more helpful. I'm not in a position to be very useful, just now.
Yeah so far the agreement we've come to is that I get the check(s) from insurance and then pay them. They're supposed to report to me as they get in there and estimate what work needs to be done, then go at it after I say yes to it. Nothing up front so far.
Originally posted by sdgdf: I was slow to talk to their insurance agent because I didn't want to make a mistake while speaking with them, and when I did it was so long they said they thought I wasn't pursuing my claim and they were going to close it out or something. That was about a month ago.
Information for all.
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... they thought I wasn't pursuing my claim and they were going to close it out or something.
They can not do that. Civil liabilities have at least a two year window for plaintiff action.
sdgdf, sad to hear of your troubles. Also sad to see a nice, any Fiero, get bruised.
Body shop estimates $5700 total for the work and they sent a supplemental to insurance to try and get them to cover all of it. That includes all the paint and also suspension work. They believe they can pull it out and repair it rather than cut the frame and replace from the other car, which is good news as I’d like to have both cars running
With the exception of some of the prior owner "hacks," the car looks really solid, and pretty awesome.
The decklid looks a little naked... either needs a luggage rack or a spoiler! Hah...
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Originally posted by Raydar:
Excellent! I hope the insurance doesn't balk at the supplement.
Bit off topic but I’d really like a luggage rack on this other car. Did someone at a meet mention they had a luggage rack decklid? You know if someone else club-wise has 1? I’d ask on the club forum but it seems kinda dead.
Bit off topic but I’d really like a luggage rack on this other car. Did someone at a meet mention they had a luggage rack decklid? You know if someone else club-wise has 1? I’d ask on the club forum but it seems kinda dead.
Many of us check the club forum on the regular. I just don't post much, because I don't have a lot to say, and nothing much new going on.
I'll ask John if he has a luggage rack decklid. Guaranteed it won't be the right color, though.
The club forum seems kind of dead because everyone goes to facebook or somewhere else to post. It never hurts to cross post on as many outlets as possible.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 01-02-2024).]
Bit off topic but I’d really like a luggage rack on this other car. Did someone at a meet mention they had a luggage rack decklid?
If you want a luggage rack, I'm glad you're looking for another decklid with one already attached... the reason being that decklids with no luggage racks or wings are relatively rare, and it's good to keep them unmolested for anyone who might want a decklid with no holes in it (from a rack or wing).
. Sorry for not posting more updates I was out on a week-long camping trip and didn't have cell reception. This was planned a couple months ago, and I was hard-pressed to go get the car that weekend and left Monday so I barely got to post that pic of it on the trailer. 
)
I dunno man, I wouldn't be happy. There's a lot of work and time involved to swap everything over.
