Well, I went to my storage unit this weekend, and spent some time rifling through the parts boxes. I finally sat in my Fiero and discovered two things...

- it's a lot harder to get into today than it was 13 years ago when I put it into storage at the age of ~32.

- I found a BRAND NEW Crane Cams H-272 camshaft, with a brand new set of matching Crane Cams lifters. I'm pretty excited because I'll be using this in my 3.4 build, but I had a couple of questions...


1 - The cam came with break-in fluid. Should I use that, or is there something better I should use for assembly?
2 - I plan to get a new set of 1.52:1 roller rockers. Anyone know where I can get these from? I can't seem to remember who made them.
3 - For break-in oil (other than assembly lube), should I use Shell Rotella? Along with that, are there any additives I should add in?


Finally, what happened to Crane Cams? When I go to www.CraneCams.com it takes me to CompCams. I guess they were bought out. Kind of makes me sad because I just realized that at the time I bought this cam in 2007, they were based out of Daytona, Florida. Incidentally... I made the conscious effort to put it inside the car, where I had a huge bag of desiccant. There is absolutely no rust anywhere, at all, on the camshaft. I know it's coated with something (more than likely), but I would have expected some surface rust... glad I put it inside, even if I forgot about it.

quote 82-T/A: was 13 years ago when I put it (Fiero) into storage

Do you have any plans to drive it?

quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut: Do you have any plans to drive it?

Hahaha... yes... at least, I hope so!

I put it into storage because I took a job that required me to move every 2-4 years. But I'm mostly (finally) in a position where I'm more stable. I'd have already pulled the car out, but I'm helping my daughter restore her Fiero, and once it's running and driving and in great shape... then her Fiero goes on the street and mine goes into the garage for the same treatment. I expect to have it in the garage at the house within a year.

I have the new (rebuilt) 3.4 in my garage already, so I can work on it in the mean time.

You dont want to use that cam, you better send it to me just to make sure you are safe from it :wink:

To answer you questions,

1. Do not use the included mix in break-in additive. Use Lucas Break-In Oil. Its the best of the best.
2. Not my area of expertise.
3. See number one.

Assemble everything with a generous helping of Lucas assembly oil. It goes on like red snot and sticks to everything. Its fantastic!

Good luck!

[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 10-31-2023).]

I would try to find some used 1.6 roller fulcrum rockers from one of many blow 3X00 motors at a pick-n-pull if I were you. They can be used with Fiero heads.
I'd also switch the the Fiero Store SS valves which have a narrower stem at the valve opening for increased flow.

If you want to buy the full roller 1.6 rockers from Summit, I can sell you a pair of valve cover spacers that you'd have to sandwich between a Firebird 2.8 valve cover gasket and the Fiero valve cover gasket.

Because the Summit rockers use a 3/8" nut, I'd also get the CRANE10mm->3/8 stud adapters if you go that route.

In this picture of my original 3400 block rebuilt with DOHC pistons with Fiero heads and accessories - you can see why you'd need the valve cover spacers:

[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 10-31-2023).]

Hi Todd;
Nearest I can tell Crane is now based out of Australia. Comp cams has the 1.52 steel roller tips that I used. With that cam you have I would not use 1.6 rockers without checking valve to piston clearance as you might have to flycut reliefs in the pistons. Definitly use proper assembly lube or moly assembly grease. Lucas has very good high Zinc oils for engines with flat tappet cams. the zinc will give your cam a chance at a long life. sleek

I'm running .540" lift with flat top pistons...you won't have to worry about clearance with your cam.

The only clearance issues will depend on the height of the rockers depending on which ones you use. The nut on the full-roller rockers is the issue.



$125 shipped

[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 10-31-2023).]

quote Originally posted by Dukesterpro: You dont want to use that cam, you better send it to me just to make sure you are safe from it :wink: To answer you questions, 1. Do not use the included mix in break-in additive. Use Lucas Break-In Oil. Its the best of the best. 2. Not my area of expertise. 3. See number one. Assemble everything with a generous helping of Lucas assembly oil. It goes on like red snot and sticks to everything. Its fantastic! Good luck!

Thanks Duke.. both you and Sleek recommended the same oil, so I'll definitely go with that...

5-Quarts 5W-30!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10631-1


Yeah, I knew I had this camshaft somewhere, but for some reason I never thought to look on the passenger floor, I just kept rifling through the boxes around the car, lol!

quote Originally posted by lou_dias: I would try to find some used 1.6 roller fulcrum rockers from one of many blow 3X00 motors at a pick-n-pull if I were you. They can be used with Fiero heads. I'd also switch the the Fiero Store SS valves which have a narrower stem at the valve opening for increased flow.

Thanks Lou, I'd remembered these valves from way back in the day. I went looking for them again when you mentioned it last in one of the Tech posts. But I was running up with no leads... apparently, SI does not make these anymore, and the Fiero Store was completely sold out. The ONLY place I was able to find them, was through ARI Racing Engines. They only had them available in rebuilt cyl heads, so I ended up having to buy a set of ported Gen-1 heads w/ the SI valves installed in them. Which is good none the less, because they're ported and port-matched also... so that's good, but I had to plunk down like $750 bucks.

The only thing left is I'm considering whether or not I want to do the dog-leg mod or whatever they call it (the neck of the intake plenum). I've ported the intake plenum, and I have a ported throttle body, but I'm going for a 99.99% stock look...

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Hi Todd; Nearest I can tell Crane is now based out of Australia. Comp cams has the 1.52 steel roller tips that I used. With that cam you have I would not use 1.6 rockers without checking valve to piston clearance as you might have to flycut reliefs in the pistons. Definitly use proper assembly lube or moly assembly grease. Lucas has very good high Zinc oils for engines with flat tappet cams. the zinc will give your cam a chance at a long life. sleek

Thanks Sleek... just went down a rabbit hole doing some research. Looks like they came back in 2009 after going bankrupt, and then focused only on motorcycle engines, again... in Daytona. But then went bankrupt yet again... So sad though... they apparently lost their domain name too... ugh.

mineral spirits---paint thinner/solvent. Good idea to clean before coating with moly or assembly lube. Yes you probably have enough clearance with flat tops. Mine are 10.5 popups and had to be flycut with 1.52-1 roller tip rockers. sleek

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: mineral spirits---paint thinner/solvent. Good idea to clean before coating with moly or assembly lube. Yes you probably have enough clearance with flat tops. Mine are 10.5 popups and had to be flycut with 1.52-1 roller tip rockers. sleek

Thanks Sleek... that makes sense. I kind of thought that's what it was... but wasn't sure.

I already have a set of 1.52:1 rockers, but I've heard many stories of people breaking rocker arms when they upgrade the cam. The different angles of the came profiles wear into the ball pivots at slightly different angles, and when you upgrade to a different cam, it puts stress in different areas which often causes them to break. So I might as well go with a whole new set.

Found them at the Fiero Store...

https://www.fierostore.com/...0%20%20152&d=194&p=1


I'm probably OK using the pushrods that came with my 3.4 since it's a warranted rebuild... the assumption is they're probably new. If I was going to get a nicer set, is there something I should be considering? Stronger / lighter to reduce mass?


Thanks guys!

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: EDIT: Oh! It mentioned that I should use mineral spirits to "clean" the lifters (and camshaft) before I install it. Is this still good guidance? No idea what mineral spirits are, but I assume I can buy that at Home Depot. Anything else I should use, or is there better guidance for this?

I would suggest that you use denatured alcohol to clean the parts. It is a relatively strong solvent that will break down all forms of oil and grease, and has a high vapor pressure so it will evaporate off the parts fairly quickly. Use it outdoors or in a very well ventilated garage, as the vapors can knock you out. I use it to clean bike components (bearings, chains, cassettes), and I always use a closed container to let the parts soak. With a wee bit of agitation denatured alcohol will remove everything (grease, oils, and dirt).

Hi Todd;
I used a set of new stock pushrods as when I checked them for length the roller tips remained centered on the valve stem tip as they should. So I would recommend checking with your 3.4 pushrods first or get or make an adjustable test pushrod to help figure out the correct length for your engine combo. Those FS roller tip rockers are the exact ones I have in my engine . I have had them up to 6500 rpm numerous times with absolutely no problems. sleek

My experience with the 272...
You will likely need to have the spring pockets machined for valve spring clearance. Otherwise, the coils could bind. Look at installed height vs compressed height. Make sure .454 and .480 will work.
There may be better options for springs, now, than what I had, but I absolutely had to have mine machined. Are you going to have someone install your springs? Or is that already done? This needs to be addressed, regardless.
I just used the Comp 1.52 roller-tip rockers for mine. They're way cheaper than the full roller rockers, and just fine for a street engine.
Don't do 1.6s. You'll open up a whole different list of considerations. (You're new lift numbers would be .478/.505)
If you haven't bought lifters, yet, go for GM lifters. This was recommended to me, years ago. The feeling was that the GM lifters were superior to aftermarket. They are more expensive. Substantially.
(Edit - I see that you already have lifters. My bad.)

My stock 3.4 pistons worked fine. No piston-to-valve issues. Supposedly the 272 cam likes high compression, but mine ran fine with stock compression and lots of advance, even on regular gas. (This is where you'd likely install 3.4 DOHC pistons, if the engine was apart. )

Absolutely do the DAWG intake mod to the neck. That is the worst choke point in the engine. Without the mod, you'll run out of wind about the same time the cam is starting to "feel good".
I used a Cloyes timing set, that allowed for different settings of advance or retard for the cam. I installed it in the "retarded" position, to help out the top end, since the 3.4 already has a buttload of torque.

I used gray moly lube for my assembly, and had zero issues, but if other people have used the "sticky red snot" assembly lube and it worked for them, it seems to make less of a mess.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-01-2023).]

One more advice so you don't end with a wiped camshaft. What this tool does is make little scar on the lifter bore which will supply a steady oil stream onto the cam lobes. The advantage of this approach is that the cam is not depending on oil slinged by the crankshaft. That'll cut your break in time from 20-30 mins to 10 minutes. Also, the Rotella oil Does not have enough ZDDP for a proper break in.


This is what I use to break in all my engines and I have never had any wiped cam problems. I built a 383 stroker and the owner cheaped out on the breaking oil and wiped the cam even though I warned him.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: One more advice so you don't end with a wiped camshaft. What this tool does is make little scar on the lifter bore which will supply a steady oil stream onto the cam lobes. The advantage of this approach is that the cam is not depending on oil slinged by the crankshaft. That'll cut your break in time from 20-30 mins to 10 minutes. ...

I have never seen that tool, but it sounds like a hell of a good idea.
I have heard of replacement cams getting wiped, all too frequently. (It's why I recommended GM lifters, earlier.) But this seems really useful.

Crane went out of business and the assets were purchased by S&S the Harley engine company.

They sold off the automotive arm to Comp Cams that are a part of Edelbrock now the last I heard.

Many of these big name companies are not that large. Many struggles and have sold out or closed. Holley owns about half of them.

There still are companies like Isky and a few others that can do a cam but it would not be cheap.

Crane in Australia was just a joint effort from the 90’s for distribution. I think it may be gone or just a name today.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: I have never seen that tool, but it sounds like a hell of a good idea. I have heard of replacement cams getting wiped, all too frequently. (It's why I recommended GM lifters, earlier.) But this seems really useful.

The reason main reason I haven't got a cam wiped is because I use Crower Cool Face solid lifters. THey have a .024 peep hole that supplies constant oil supply to the cam lobe. Basically the same thing the scar on the lifter bore does. I believe the reason they don't do it on the hydraulic is because it can loose prime and collapse at hi RPMs.

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Hi Todd; I used a set of new stock pushrods as when I checked them for length the roller tips remained centered on the valve stem tip as they should. So I would recommend checking with your 3.4 pushrods first or get or make an adjustable test pushrod to help figure out the correct length for your engine combo. Those FS roller tip rockers are the exact ones I have in my engine . I have had them up to 6500 rpm numerous times with absolutely no problems. sleek

https://rumble.com/v2pxf7i-...d-length-tuning.html
Pushrods can be used as an enhancement tool also!

quote Originally posted by lateFormula:I would suggest that you use denatured alcohol to clean the parts. It is a relatively strong solvent that will break down all forms of oil and grease, and has a high vapor pressure so it will evaporate off the parts fairly quickly. Use it outdoors or in a very well ventilated garage, as the vapors can knock you out. I use it to clean bike components (bearings, chains, cassettes), and I always use a closed container to let the parts soak. With a wee bit of agitation denatured alcohol will remove everything (grease, oils, and dirt).

RGR, thank you... I'll use that!

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Hi Todd; I used a set of new stock pushrods as when I checked them for length the roller tips remained centered on the valve stem tip as they should. So I would recommend checking with your 3.4 pushrods first or get or make an adjustable test pushrod to help figure out the correct length for your engine combo. Those FS roller tip rockers are the exact ones I have in my engine . I have had them up to 6500 rpm numerous times with absolutely no problems. sleek

Thanks Sleek! I've used them before on my other 3.2 V6/60 that I had (that I'm replacing)... and I was very pleased with them. So I will definitely then be going with those... I just don't want to re-use these old ones. Thanks!!!

quote Originally posted by Raydar:My experience with the 272... You will likely need to have the spring pockets machined for valve spring clearance. Otherwise, the coils could bind. Look at installed height vs compressed height. Make sure .454 and .480 will work. There may be better options for springs, now, than what I had, but I absolutely had to have mine machined. Are you going to have someone install your springs? Or is that already done? This needs to be addressed, regardless.

So, I'm glad you brought this up. I talked to ARI Racing about the cyl heads that I purchased (which came with SI stainless valves and a port job). This is what I asked them a few months ago:

"I am planning on installing an H272 Crane Cam. Do you know what kind of springs are on the cyl heads I just bought, and do you think those springs should be OK for that cam? Or do you think I need to install different springs?"

... and this is what he responded with:
"Those heads are set up for that type of camshaft. You can use those springs. Clearances will be fine."

So I think I'm good... but I can absolutely change out springs, valves, etc... and even lap. I just don't have the tools to do an angle grind, but I think I should be good. I have that huge C-Clamp looking spring removal tool, but I've also used the smaller one that goes right on top. I should be good to go though... thoughts?

quote Originally posted by Raydar: Absolutely do the DAWG intake mod to the neck. That is the worst choke point in the engine. Without the mod, you'll run out of wind about the same time the cam is starting to "feel good".

Ugh, I know... I think I can do this... shouldn't be a problem, I've just never welded aluminum before. Is there aluminum "flux core" wire? I have a couple of spare 87+ V6/60 intake plenums... so I can definitely do that to one of them.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: One more advice so you don't end with a wiped camshaft. What this tool does is make little scar on the lifter bore which will supply a steady oil stream onto the cam lobes. The advantage of this approach is that the cam is not depending on oil slinged by the crankshaft. That'll cut your break in time from 20-30 mins to 10 minutes. Also, the Rotella oil Does not have enough ZDDP for a proper break in.

Ok, I am REALLY intrigued. After you posted this, I looked up a few videos on YouTube, and it appears as though you score the lower portion of the lifter bores (from to below the oil passage ring in the block)... and so I guess the point is that it'll shoot some oil down into the lifter bore directly below this. I am DEFINITELY interested in doing this... but I have some questions (thank you!):

1 - What effect does this have on oil pressure, particularly on the top-end? I've worn out crank bearings before, and as a result I of course lost oil pressure up high. I fixed that with a rebuild, but it's like when you have a roof leak, even when you replace your roof... it's something that you always think about. Do I have to worry about this? Sleek recommended I go with a high-volume oil pump, so I am absolutely going to be doing that regardless... but would you mind addressing that?

2 - I've never seen or used this tool before, but I'm going to order it this weekend. Assumedly, I need to remove the camshaft first. Is it possible to use this tool without having to remove the crank and piston/rod assembly? Engine will be on a stand and I can rotate it, etc... just want to know if the crank will prevent me from getting in there.

Thank you!!!

quote Originally posted by La fiera: This is what I use to break in all my engines and I have never had any wiped cam problems. I built a 383 stroker and the owner cheaped out on the breaking oil and wiped the cam even though I warned him.

Awesome, I'll definitely get this.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: This is how you properly break in a cam. MUST WATCH!!!!!

Thank you!!!

If ARI built your heads with that cam in mind, you should be good.
Being that I'm OCD, I might look at the specs for the springs and make sure the compressed height will accommodate .480, though.
(Did they also port them? Seems like that was "a thing". If so... awesome!)

Sorry... can't help you on the aluminum welding. I can't weld a d@mned thing.

I should add that I've learned a good deal from reading this thread. It's been a long time since I've done any work like this. Never too old to learn new tricks.

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Thank you!!!

"1 - What effect does this have on oil pressure, particularly on the top-end? I've worn out crank bearings before, and as a result I of course lost oil pressure up high. I fixed that with a rebuild, but it's like when you have a roof leak, even when you replace your roof... it's something that you always think about. Do I have to worry about this? Sleek recommended I go with a high-volume oil pump, so I am absolutely going to be doing that regardless... but would you mind addressing that?

2 - I've never seen or used this tool before, but I'm going to order it this weekend. Assumedly, I need to remove the camshaft first. Is it possible to use this tool without having to remove the crank and piston/rod assembly? Engine will be on a stand and I can rotate it, etc... just want to know if the crank will prevent me from getting in there."

#1-
Oil pressure is the result of a restriction in the system. So the bigger the restriction the higher the pressure and the result is lower oil flow and velocity which makes it difficult for the oil to reach different parts of the engine in a timely manner. I know, it sounds counter intuitive but that's the way it works. As per Sleek recommendation of the Hi volume oil pump that is a must specially in our 60* V6 for performance intentions. I've used them in all my Supernatural engines with great results. The scar the tool makes on the lifter bores is so small that should not affect oil pressure, but the cam will have a constant jet of hi flow, hi velocity, low pressure oil feed independently from what the crankshaft RPM is and that is a huge PLUS!

#2
The SBC architecture is a bit different than our 60* V6s. Option #1. If you want to use that tool in the V6 the tool has to be modified. The lower outer ring has to be grinded off to allow the tool to be inserted from the top of the lifter bore. Unlike the SBC, the cam in the 60* V6 is not exposed to the crankshaft. The camshaft is encased in its own tunnel.
Option #2 is to get a small file and take your time and scar the lifter bore.
Or #3 or preferred option is to go for a solid cam and lifter combo and take advantage of the lifter design with the peep hole that injects oil right on the cam lobe like the ones I use.

Then again, that's how I do things which means you don't have to take any of these options; Just do what you think is best for you!

quote Originally posted by La fiera: #1- Oil pressure is the result of a restriction in the system. So the bigger the restriction the higher the pressure and the result is lower oil flow and velocity which makes it difficult for the oil to reach different parts of the engine in a timely manner. I know, it sounds counter intuitive but that's the way it works. As per Sleek recommendation of the Hi volume oil pump that is a must specially in our 60* V6 for performance intentions. I've used them in all my Supernatural engines with great results. The scar the tool makes on the lifter bores is so small that should not affect oil pressure, but the cam will have a constant jet of hi flow, hi velocity, low pressure oil feed independently from what the crankshaft RPM is and that is a huge PLUS! #2 - The SBC architecture is a bit different than our 60* V6s. Option #1. If you want to use that tool in the V6 the tool has to be modified. The lower outer ring has to be grinded off to allow the tool to be inserted from the top of the lifter bore. Unlike the SBC, the cam in the 60* V6 is not exposed to the crankshaft. The camshaft is encased in its own tunnel. Option #2 is to get a small file and take your time and scar the lifter bore.

Thanks La Fiera, I really appreciate the replies! Couple of more questions (I really appreciate it)...


1 - Is there a particular place the scar needs to happen? I looked up some videos of this being done on an SBC, but they only showed one side being done. It was the LEFT side of the engine (as in, the passenger side in a longitudinally mounted configuration), and they scored the bottom portion. Would I do this to the bottom side on all 12, or do I do one side on the bottom, and the other side on the top?

2 - If I do this with a small metal file... how deep are we talking? Is it just a very little... and since this engine has already been tanked, cleaned, and rebuilt... how do I ensure those metal shavings don't get back into the engine when I rebuild it? (Note, I'd have the cam already out).


Thank you!!!


This is the video I watched...

Todd don't do that to an assembled engine. You will never get the cuttings cleaned out and will void any warranty on your new engine. Buy a set of lifters that have the groove or oil bleed hole in them. I got mine from crower cams but I know there are several manufacturers that offer them . You can probably get them from Summit racing. sleek

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Todd don't do that to an assembled engine. You will never get the cuttings cleaned out and will void any warranty on your new engine. Buy a set of lifters that have the groove or oil bleed hole in them. I got mine from crower cams but I know there are several manufacturers that offer them . You can probably get them from Summit racing. sleek

Sleek has a valid point there Todd. If I have to drill of file something on a piece of metal I'd cover the drill bit or file with grease, that way all the grease will catch all the particulate. But, I'd never do that on one of my engines, the stakes are too high. Now, the groove on the lifters like Sleek recommended is something that a machine shop can do for you fast and affordable. The advantage of the groove is that since the lifter rotates during operation it will cover a large areal on the cam lobe. If I didn't have an option for the peep hole on the face on the lifter I'd go for the groove. The groove is done only an the lower part of the lifter. From the oil band to the bottom of it. A .020" groove should supply more than enough oil.

PS
I believe I have a blue printed Hi Volume oil pump that I did specially for the 3.7L engine and the oil flow was significantly improved. Just pay for shipping and you can have it.

FIRST, I just want to say, I really appreciate you guys giving me all of this free advice. I 100% recognize that you guys are spending your time and effort responding to my questions... and that YOUR time has essentially been free to me, and not free for you. So thank you so much... I really mean that.

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Todd don't do that to an assembled engine. You will never get the cuttings cleaned out and will void any warranty on your new engine. Buy a set of lifters that have the groove or oil bleed hole in them. I got mine from crower cams but I know there are several manufacturers that offer them . You can probably get them from Summit racing. sleek

RGR... thanks Sleep, I appreciate the candid response. Do you happen to have a part number? I really don't want to buy the wrong set of lifters, and worse than that, I don't want to get shitty ifters that are going to prematurely wear out either. I assume the drill hole will always be dead-center of the lifter, and therefore it will mostly be plugged while it's on the cam anyway, only allowing a very little bit of oil (just enough to really make a difference), and not really affect leak-down when the engine is off?

quote Originally posted by La fiera: Sleek has a valid point there Todd. If I have to drill of file something on a piece of metal I'd cover the drill bit or file with grease, that way all the grease will catch all the particulate. But, I'd never do that on one of my engines, the stakes are too high. Now, the groove on the lifters like Sleek recommended is something that a machine shop can do for you fast and affordable. The advantage of the groove is that since the lifter rotates during operation it will cover a large areal on the cam lobe. If I didn't have an option for the peep hole on the face on the lifter I'd go for the groove. The groove is done only an the lower part of the lifter. From the oil band to the bottom of it. A .020" groove should supply more than enough oil. PS I believe I have a blue printed Hi Volume oil pump that I did specially for the 3.7L engine and the oil flow was significantly improved. Just pay for shipping and you can have it.

Thanks, I'm glad I asked. I appreciate it. I'm definitely interested in your oil pump. Will it work with my Gen-1 block? I also have the windage tray that I plan on installing in this motor too, so I assume it'll work with that? Please let me know... I really appreciate it! I'll send you some extra for your time too...

Thank you!!!

FWIW, I've done several HFT cam swaps in my 400 in recent years. Goes with my Jekyll and Hyde personality I guess. A Lunati VooDoo was probably the most radical but in the end, it was too noisy. The VooDoo's have very steep ramps. I've always used Joe Gibbs Racing Engine Assembly Grease, no issues at all with cam break-in without any lifter mods. When do you think you purchased the cam & lifter set? For awhile out there, lifter quality was pretty bad and it might just be worth it to go with new lifters like the Crowers.

------------------
1965 Tempest 400 CID
2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 3.6
2017 BMW X3 3.0 T
2015 BMW 535iX M Sport
2008 G6 GT "Street" Coupe 220K miles
2005 Buick 3.6 Rendezvous 235K miles

Hi Todd;
Here is Crowers lifters that have the lube provision or you can quite easily modify the lifters you already have . sleek

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Thanks, I'm glad I asked. I appreciate it. I'm definitely interested in your oil pump. Will it work with my Gen-1 block? I also have the windage tray that I plan on installing in this motor too, so I assume it'll work with that? Please let me know... I really appreciate it! I'll send you some extra for your time too... Thank you!!!

Hey Todd! Yes, it will work with you 2.8L block. I found it! I'll pack it tomorrow and let you know the shipping amount.

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Todd here is a description of the cam saver lifter. It is only a .0025 thousands of an inch deep. I am sure you could do that to the lower section of your lifters that you already have . sleek

Thank you so much Sleek, I just want to confirm... the lifters you used were in fact this exact model:

SKU 66000X3-12 : https://crower.com/hydrauli...chev-6-cylinder.html


I only ask because when I look at engine size / make, it lists some 4.1 liter Chevrolet V6... and I don't really know what that engine is, just want to make sure I'm ordering the right thing before I click GO. Thanks!!!

quote Originally posted by La fiera: Hey Todd! Yes, it will work with you 2.8L block. I found it! I'll pack it tomorrow and let you know the shipping amount.

Thanks Fiera, just let me know and I will send money ASAP! Just shoot me a PM when you're ready. I really, really appreciate it!!!

Hi Todd;
That is the correct lifter # 66ooox3-12. It fits a lot of GM engines but specifically Hydraulic flat tappet 60 degree engines. sleek

Check your inbox Todd.

Done, thanks La Fiera!

Sleek, I appreciate it! I'll order them tonight!!!

I just realized that I probably should have put this in Technical... don't know if Cliff can easily move it.

But I think I'll have everything I need now for a really solid running Gen-1 3.4 V6/60 with a little bit of hot sauce. I'll need to work on the Dogleg mod, and I think I should be good to go.

It's called the Dawg mod, named after the person who documented it:
https://www.westcoastfieros...ntake_topic1806.html

quote Originally posted by pmbrunelle: It's called the Dawg mod, named after the person who documented it: https://www.westcoastfieros...ntake_topic1806.html

Last February, I PM'd Dawg regarding intakes. He did reply but it's not likely he will offer them again. I guess there was some bad blood back then.