LOL, that makes total sense now. I assumed it was some kind of acronym.
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Originally posted by lou_dias: Re: DAWG mod
I had mine done at a local machine shop. It's not rocket science once you show someone a picture of what you want done.
I would be all over this myself if I knew how to weld in aluminum... (back on that). I think I may still try. I don't need the enormous throat like he did, but I do want to increase it near that major pinch point. I want to retain the EGR tube connector, and properly fit the vacuum line. Something I can fiddle with in the future. But I already have a ported throttle body, and port-matched (and blended) to an 87+ intake... just need to open up the neck now.
So I just got my CamSaver lifters, and I finally get "how" they provide oil to the bottom. I kept thinking there would be a hole in the bottom like some of the others, but in this case they machined a very small part of the lifter along the side vertically, so that oil will shoot through there and onto the cam. It's only BELOW the oil ring groove, so it won't also shoot oil up into the galley (other than through where it's supposed to... via the pushrod). So that makes perfect sense now... and much better than me modifying the lifter hole I think.
While you might want to try it yourself; if you are not a seasoned, experienced welder, you should take this to a professional. The manifold is a primitive sand casting and has a fair amount of porosity. What this means is that the manifold has a fair amount of trapped air within the metal. If you were to start grinding on an intake, you would find tiny round voids in the metal. That is porosity, and that is problematic for welding.
Also here's another tip. You will want to buy a length of 3" ID aluminum tube with a wall thickness of 3/16" or 1/4". Then go online to find and buy a few cardboard shipping tubes that are 3" in diameter. You can cut the cardboard tube to fit against the manifold, and if you have enough length, or enough cardboard tubes, you can try different lengths and sizes on the manifold. But once you have a section of cardboard tube that matches up to the surface of the manifold, and will open the restriction where the neck of the manifold meets the plenum, then you can use that piece of cardbaord as a template to mark the manifold as where to cut it away. Then you can also use the cardboard as a template on the aluminum tube to cut and shape it, although you won't want to cut right up to the marked line, you'll need to cut close to the traced line (like 1/8"-1/4") and then do a fine shaping of the edge profile of the aluminum tube with a sander - think tabletop belt/disc sander.
While you might want to try it yourself; if you are not a seasoned, experienced welder, you should take this to a professional. The manifold is a primitive sand casting and has a fair amount of porosity. What this means is that the manifold has a fair amount of trapped air within the metal. If you were to start grinding on an intake, you would find tiny round voids in the metal. That is porosity, and that is problematic for welding.
Also here's another tip. You will want to buy a length of 3" ID aluminum tube with a wall thickness of 3/16" or 1/4". Then go online to find and buy a few cardboard shipping tubes that are 3" in diameter. You can cut the cardboard tube to fit against the manifold, and if you have enough length, or enough cardboard tubes, you can try different lengths and sizes on the manifold. But once you have a section of cardboard tube that matches up to the surface of the manifold, and will open the restriction where the neck of the manifold meets the plenum, then you can use that piece of cardbaord as a template to mark the manifold as where to cut it away. Then you can also use the cardboard as a template on the aluminum tube to cut and shape it, although you won't want to cut right up to the marked line, you'll need to cut close to the traced line (like 1/8"-1/4") and then do a fine shaping of the edge profile of the aluminum tube with a sander - think tabletop belt/disc sander.
Thanks Formula... I can definitely weld, but do not have the tools, etc., for aluminum welding... so that's definitely the route I'm going to take. Quick question... where exactly would I get a 3" aluminum tubing like that? The only thing I can think of is Home Depot and they really only have stuff for fence poles. Would a metal fabrication shop have this stuff? I'll go with thicker to increase the strength of the plenum neck. I should be able to get it just right so that it fits perfect before I take it in to a welder.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Thanks Formula... I can definitely weld, but do not have the tools, etc., for aluminum welding... so that's definitely the route I'm going to take. Quick question... where exactly would I get a 3" aluminum tubing like that? The only thing I can think of is Home Depot and they really only have stuff for fence poles. Would a metal fabrication shop have this stuff? I'll go with thicker to increase the strength of the plenum neck. I should be able to get it just right so that it fits perfect before I take it in to a welder.
Let Google be your friend to find things like this. A quick search only found me a couple examples. If I spent more time, I could find lots of options for tubing that can be purchased in small quantities.
This one has wall thickness of 1/8", which might be risky for welding, as I'm pretty sure that due to the porosity in the cast manifold that a welder would need to make two passes all the way around to get a good weld. With this thickness, it is possible that a hole could be burned in the tubing while welding. https://www.speedymetals.co...061-t6-aluminum.aspx
EGR in an engine is like going thru life as a chain smoker. If you like your internals clean, get rid of EGR and PCV. I just put those little breather air filters on my valve covers... When my motor gets taken apart, my intake and intake ports on the heads are squeaky clean.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 11-22-2023).]
Lou; don't get rid of PCV. It does several good things such as removing combustion moisture from your crankcase. It also maintains a slightly negative pressure in our crankcase which gives you longer seal and gasket life. also it will help reduce oil consumption at your valve seals and piston rings. sleek
