Welp, after 24 years of dependability with my 88 Formula , it looks like I may have quite a problem here. Sure hope im wrong. Let me start by saying this car sits for months at a time inbetween driving it due to my busy schedule. But every time I go to start her back up, shell start without even cranking. Just fires right up. But many a time due to it just being parked, it wont shift into gear . I'll have to bleed the hydralic system, then it will shift fine. This time i cannot get the car to go into gear from start up. I put in a new slave cylinder and bled it very well. I can see the tranny lever moving back and forth more then it ever seemed to do. Just wont go into gear. I even tried putting it into 1st with the car off, then pushing the pedal all the way down. When i turned the key the car jumped like the clutch was fully engaged. Anyone have a simular problem, or have any advise ? Im thinking about taking out the starter motor and hoping to be able to ( barely ) see if the clutch plate is releasing. I dread to think about dropping the cradle for this indepth job of replacing the clutch. ( This Formula was completely rebuilt by none other than the very well know Jim Gilbert RIP. ) I miss him extremely.... what a wonderful person.
I put in a new slave cylinder and bled it very well. I can see the tranny lever moving back and forth more then it ever seemed to do.
That's not telling us very much. How much is it moving exactly? Use a ruler or tape measure.
Since your car sits for extended periods of time, it's possible your clutch disc has rusted to the flywheel. It's been posted here a few times over the years how to break it free.
its moving a considerable amount more then when the car shifted fine, meaning it show be able to shift into gear fine. Ive been back there enough to know that. Can you lead me to the links instructing how to free up clutch disk from pressure plate ?
FIXED !!!! Just wanted to follow up with the outcome of my shift into gear problem. Once again , FIXED ! After many tries bleeding the system, and seeing the large amount of travel in the clutch lever, I just had a very strong feeling that the clutch disk was corroded to the flywheel. My hunch turned out to be correct. I jacked the back wheels off the ground, supported the car with MANY jackstands, then started the engine with the car shifted into first. Of corse the rear wheels will spin because of the frozen clutch. In just a moment i heard a loud "clunk" ( for lack of better words) . I shut the car off and took it out of gear. I then started her up in neutral, pushed in the clutch pedal, and the car simply shifted into gear. I went thru all the gears, and the car shifted fine. Took the car off the jacks, drove it around town, and alls good. So foranyone struggling with a " Cant get the car into gear" issue, trying out this somewhat simple remedy may be your answer. Jst be VERY SAFE with the car running in gear. Thanks to all who commented.
FIXED !!!! Just wanted to follow up with the outcome of my shift into gear problem. Once again , FIXED ! After many tries bleeding the system, and seeing the large amount of travel in the clutch lever, I just had a very strong feeling that the clutch disk was corroded to the flywheel. My hunch turned out to be correct. I jacked the back wheels off the ground, supported the car with MANY jackstands, then started the engine with the car shifted into first. Of corse the rear wheels will spin because of the frozen clutch. In just a moment i heard a loud "clunk" ( for lack of better words) . I shut the car off and took it out of gear. I then started her up in neutral, pushed in the clutch pedal, and the car simply shifted into gear. I went thru all the gears, and the car shifted fine. Took the car off the jacks, drove it around town, and alls good. So foranyone struggling with a " Cant get the car into gear" issue, trying out this somewhat simple remedy may be your answer. Just be VERY SAFE with the car running in gear. Thanks to all who commented.
Running your engine with the transmission engaged while the wheels are off the ground is not a good idea. The unsprung strut/springs will allow the axles to drive the wheels at a sharper angle than when the car is driven. This could cause the CV axle boots to rip or tear. The proper way to do this is to rest the car on the support arms while testing so that the axle stays as straight as possible.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
How much is it moving exactly? Use a ruler or tape measure.
