I bought a bottle of pre-mixed RetroBrite a couple of weeks ago: https://www.amazon.com/Retr...lowed/dp/B08668347P/

$20 bucks, pre-mixed, you just spray the part, put it in a plastic bag, and leave it out in the sun.

I let this sit for about 2 hours. Every 30 minutes or so, I'd take the bag, massage it (from the outside) onto the buttons, and then leave it out in the sun again. I did that 3-4 times.

When I get the desired color, you take the buttons back out, rinse them off, and then use a little toothbrush with some soap to make sure it's clean, let it dry, and re-install the buttons.


I was impatient... because really you're supposed to leave it in for 4 hours... but this was a good solid 2 hours. You can see the difference between a faded one, and the one that I disassembled and cleaned:








I actually did myself a disservice, because the one I cleaned was actually WORSE than the one on the left. The one on the left was the one that came with the car, but I accidentally broke that little tab off that allows you to connect it to the blend-door cable. So... I ended up having to order a used one on eBay.

Anyway, just thought I'd share... in case anyone here was thinking about doing this and making your interior look newer again, it's really simple now... you don't have to mix your own formula for this. I don't know the science behind WHY the plastics turn yellow like this, but apparently there's benzine (or something like that) which leaches out when in the sun, causing it to turn yellow. This basically just eliminates the staining caused by it, and does not hurt the plastic at all.

Just to be clear, you have to disassemble the HVAC controls so that you can remove those gray buttons. You don't want to put it on the face of the controls or it could damage the face.

I used it on all the gray (plus the black) buttons, and the slider knob (which is hard to remove). The fan control knob cleans up easy with dish soap.

I always figured that all the discoloration was just oil from fingers, or maybe smoke staining.

Have you tried using a Magic Eraser?

quote Originally posted by Raydar: I always figured that all the discoloration was just oil from fingers, or maybe smoke staining. Have you tried using a Magic Eraser?

Yeah, Magic Eraser from Mr. Clean is friggin' amazing... but it won't eliminate that coloring. It's a chemical reaction.

But yeah, it was exclusively made for the nerd community... restoring classic computers and video game systems (which is why I heard about it, because I'm a nerd, hahaha)... and I just thought, maybe I'll try it on these plastics in our cars...




Works amazing. Again, I don't really understand the science behind it, but it's about eliminating the benzine or something (I saw a really long scientific post about it)... but here's a quick synopsis on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retrobright

Interesting thing too... my Ford Crown Victoria has several interior pieces which have yellowed. I've thought about painting them (like my daughter did with her interior panels), but this might just make more sense...

Todd thanks for the cleaner tip. I was looking at a company that could build new buttons/parts and laser engrave the letters/markings. crazy expensive! Thanks sleek

quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: Todd thanks for the cleaner tip. I was looking at a company that could build new buttons/parts and laser engrave the letters/markings. crazy expensive! Thanks sleek

No problem. I'm trying to think of some other things in the Fiero that might need / use Retrobrite, but I don't think there really is anything else that typically has this issue. All the other buttons are available, and don't really yellow like these do.

But it works.

Thanks Todd. If you find it worth mentioning, I listen.

However (you knew there was going to be one), In your purchase link :

quote Important information Legal Disclaimer Statements regarding dietary supplements have not been evaluated by the FDA and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or health condition.

Oh, there is more. I am sure you expected that.

quote Disclaimer: While we work to ensure that product information is correct, on occasion manufacturers may alter their ingredient lists. Actual product packaging and materials may contain more and/or different information than that shown on our Web site. We recommend that you do not solely rely on the information presented and that you always read labels, warnings, and directions before using or consuming a product. For additional information about a product, please contact the manufacturer. Content on this site is for reference purposes and is not intended to substitute for advice given by a physician, pharmacist, or other licensed health-care professional. You should not use this information as self-diagnosis or for treating a health problem or disease. Contact your health-care provider immediately if you suspect that you have a medical problem. Information and statements regarding dietary supplements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or health condition. Amazon.com assumes no liability for inaccuracies or misstatements about products.

I read all the mfg supplied information, and all the reviews. My million dollar question is, ... , does it clear faded plastic headlight lenses ?

Yes, I do know my Fiero does not have plastic headlight lenses, .

quote Originally posted by cliffw: Thanks Todd. If you find it worth mentioning, I listen. However (you knew there was going to be one), In your purchase link : I read all the mfg supplied information, and all the reviews. My million dollar question is, ... , does it clear faded plastic headlight lenses ? Yes, I do know my Fiero does not have plastic headlight lenses, .

LOL... I would not recommend eating it... you'd, at a minimum, get a stomach ache, but probably internal bleeding is my guess.


On the headlight lenses, I don't know. It certainly won't polish them, but I do think it would get rid of yellowing. The problem though is that for anything you want to "retro-brite," you have to be able to wrap it in a bag. Part of what makes it work is the off-gassing and elimination of oxygen to assist in the chemical reversing process (supposedly). So, you can't just spray it on and walk away. You have to put it in a bag, like a trash bag, but it has to be clear so the UV light can hit it.

For plastics, or acrylics... when I do watch restoration, I use a special polishing compound that polishes out the scratches. If you really want to get rid of faded plastic headlight lenses, you actually have to use sand paper (seriously). Start off with 800 grit, then 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, then 3000 grit, and then use a polishing compound. It'll be better than new.

I did see something on TV though where this dude took a wipe, and wiped away the discoloration. I don't know if it's legit, or just crap... but I always fall for those. Back in the day, I bought a Tornado Air and swore up and down that this restriction in my Fiero's air intake tube created a whirlwind of horsepower. The fact that they put Bible versus on the packaging let me know to trust them too... it was all a charade.

When I asked the Fiero Store how it works, I knew so little about cars at the time, that I thought they were telling me that my A/C lines would run past the intake manifold, cooling it off, so I'd have extra horsepower. Matt, the guy working there just gave a sigh and did his best to explain to me (and I had no clue how any of this stuff worked). LOL...

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 12-10-2024).]

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Back in the day, I bought a Tornado Air and swore up and down that this restriction in my Fiero's air intake tube created a whirlwind of horsepower. The fact that they put Bible versus on the packaging let me know to trust them too... it was all a charade.

LOL... I would've taken that as a major red flag!

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: If you really want to get rid of faded plastic headlight lenses, you actually have to use sand paper (seriously). Start off with 800 grit, then 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, then 3000 grit, and then use a polishing compound. It'll be better than new.

I have heard that. Actually, I cut that similar info and pasted into an email which I sent to myself.

I have used sand paper many times. Enough so mechanical help is always welcome.

For headlights, I bought ... this

I did have to southern engineer a better sand paper applicator. I glued a larger disc, of cardboard, to it's supplied applicator. Which allows the tool to be angled.

[This message has been edited by cliffw (edited 12-13-2024).]

quote Originally posted by cliffw: I have heard that. Actually, I cut that similar info and pasted into an email which I sent to myself. I have used sand paper many times. Enough so mechanical help is always welcome. For headlights, I bought ... [url=https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-Rotary-Tool-Station-Tool-Only-PCL480B/318888257]https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-Rotary-Tool-Station-Tool-Only-PCL480B/318888257

It's easy to do when you're just working on an acrylic watch "crystal," but kind of a pain in the butt when you have a whole headlight lense... but the same process applies, just a lot more elbo-grease is required! :/

See my edit.