anybody know stuff about the later model corvairs woth the 110 hp motor? i got one for free. she practically forced it into my hands. i do have most of the chrome and stainless. im missing the passenger headlight trim, 3 tail lights and the rear bumper
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 04-15-2025).]
anybody know stuff about the later model corvairs woth the 110 hp motor? i got one for free. she practically forced it into my hands. i do have most of the chrome and stainless. im missing the passenger headlight trim, 3 tail lights and the rear bumper
got it home and ended up finding everything but the rear bumper. managed to save the rear drums while getting the rusted pads removed. lotta deadblow hammer, heat and pb blaster but hey it rolled onto the trailer and i can begin some bodywork and cleaning. next week im getting some help to rip the rat infested headliner out and begin cutting back the rust to strong metal and fabbing patch panels and some frame reinforcements (unibody is in great shape but the battery tray area is gone and the edge of that rail needs help and i have a section from another car) the engine is probably gonna have to come out since its pretty stuck and needs the pulleys repaired and carbs....dealt with...
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 04-16-2025).]
thats a good resource ive been using to find patch panels (found out clarks is a good resource through a few threads) but holy are they expensive... mine arent gonna look factory but should be plenty strong, ive sourced a bumper and maybe a lead on the actual turbo engine for this car. the 2nd owner swapped it out for the 110 hp engine for better fuel economy and the turbo had an engine problem from what ive managed to save from the rats nests (he rebuild it twice in 5k miles and had 4 turbos and cut his losses) i did my research on the main powerglide problems to make sure i dont make it worse. not sure how many holes are gonna appear once i clean the rust and dirt off also thats pretty close to how me and a buddy are gonna build the 2 door hes gonna buy eventually, might end up using a subie engine and watercool it. but currently we have a olds toronado thats rwd, 3 fieros and a 4 door corvair currently. pretty boss collection i think
The1964 Corvair Super Spyder Sport, the Astro-Hemi-Headed-Twin-Turbo-Trans-Am Factory entry ! Working on a Corvair transaxle design in aluminum, for mid-engine placement, ( factory internals, modified for limited slip, 4-spider, flopped ring and pinion. ) Ambitious Cloud -9 drawings, doing what we, like, dreamed of doing in, like, '67, like.
The1964 Corvair Super Spyder Sport, the Astro-Hemi-Headed-Twin-Turbo-Trans-Am Factory entry ! Working on a Corvair transaxle design in aluminum, for mid-engine placement, ( factory internals, modified for limited slip, 4-spider, flopped ring and pinion. ) Ambitious Cloud -9 drawings, doing what we, like, dreamed of doing in, like, '67, like.
pff could do what some did to my powerglide diff and weld it solid, im getting a replacement once i drop it out but i want to know if it works at all after 27 years of sitting and not being driven or started since 78, motor did move a little thank gosh
Bore-scope your cylinders to see the rust, [ Spokane Walmart ] Remove the plugs carefully, without stripping the threads, ( bad ), peek inside each cylinder, to discover how badly rust damaged the bores are. Rusted rings and cylinders means cylinder removal and repair, can't run with rusted rings, they will break the piston ring lands, totaling the piston. First things first, flush oil from the cylinder with a solvent, agitate to loosen rust and carbon deposits, a large Q-tip, a steel wire and steel wool, move it. Better, More, Corvair happiness with Chemistry ! Be sure the valves in that cylinder are closed, flood the cylinder with the Rust-Buster, wait a while as the stuff does it's thing, then flush with a Javex solution, rotate engine freely, happiness is a smoothly turning Corvair. Blast your cylinders with this, displacing the Water/Javex, add heat to evaporate the H²O, use a steel tube, pipe, to direct the hot air into the plug hole, water out, good. Electric hot air gun, propane/mapp gas torch, get the heat into the cylinders. Spray the blaster into the cylinders, penetrate the rusty ring lands, plenty of blaster. Once you get the heads off, be sure to use a rat-tail file to clear out the die-casting flash from between the fins, improving air flow, cooling better, and, it's cheap !. De-Flashing your Corvair ! Then, having been bitten by the Corvair vampire, you may desire the ultimate fan. The NashFan ' Must have.. Corvair ! '
[This message has been edited by Valkrie9 (edited 04-17-2025).]
Bore-scope your cylinders to see the rust, [ Spokane Walmart ] Remove the plugs carefully, without stripping the threads, ( bad ), peek inside each cylinder, to discover how badly rust damaged the bores are. Rusted rings and cylinders means cylinder removal and repair, can't run with rusted rings, they will break the piston ring lands, totaling the piston. First things first, flush oil from the cylinder with a solvent, agitate to loosen rust and carbon deposits, a large Q-tip, a steel wire and steel wool, move it. Better, More, Corvair happiness with Chemistry ! Be sure the valves in that cylinder are closed, flood the cylinder with the Rust-Buster, wait a while as the stuff does it's thing, then flush with a Javex solution, rotate engine freely, happiness is a smoothly turning Corvair. Blast your cylinders with this, displacing the Water/Javex, add heat to evaporate the H²O, use a steel tube, pipe, to direct the hot air into the plug hole, water out, good. Electric hot air gun, propane/mapp gas torch, get the heat into the cylinders. Spray the blaster into the cylinders, penetrate the rusty ring lands, plenty of blaster. Once you get the heads off, be sure to use a rat-tail file to clear out the die-casting flash from between the fins, improving air flow, cooling better, and, it's cheap !. De-Flashing your Corvair ! Then, having been bitten by the Corvair vampire, you may desire the ultimate fan. The NashFan ' Must have.. Corvair ! '
to be truthful i plan on fully disassembling this engine. the cylinders dont have oil in them which is a bad sign since the oil is full and new looking. i have some evaporust on the way and looking through the plug hole with a camera the cylinders dont look too bad, like its rusty but not pitted too horribly. should i replace the sleeves? yes...can i afford to right now? no. im keeping an eye out for another engine for parts since i can usually find the 90 hp varient for cheap but the 110 is quite a bit more difficult but the few ive found are 100 bucks and spin over and more importantly don't have seized carbs (mine seized closed and i didnt try more thsn gentle hand pressure lest i break it) so when i have a truck that runs and gets more than 2 mpg ill be picking that up
got some of the bodywork done to get the frustration out from not being able to get the last plug out but theres atf in all but the last one now not looking better but closer to being able to fit the trim and the less body filler the better right?
