I have Rodney Dickman's power window helpers (sadly, didn't improve my window performance), will that cause any issues? Will I need to take those relays back out?
Ran into a little snag on testing. The main window channel hits the motor lightly when it passes. It might be a matter of rotating the motor mounting points, or clearancing the channel where it would make contact. But given the tolerances from one car to another, it could be much worse for some. So I'll have to remedy that somehow. I'm a bit slow to do all the testing and install, I have too many life excuses to go around at the moment and this is just not a big priority. I still have to do the passengers side too.
Feel free to make your own mounts, the part numbers are yours for the taking. I still plan on producing a kit, but I can't make any promises as far as a timeline goes. All I can say, is that the combo of course will work wonderfully with relay controlled windows. OEM switches are responsible for a huge part of the speed loss in your windows, and that is a tested and confirmed fact.
Thanks for the update! Though to some it would seem minor to do stub extensions and make brackets... I think I'll just be patient till you have time to get the kinks worked out and keep a check handy for you.
I don't know HOW I missed this thread till now! I bought new motors, new window switches, new regulators, greased everything up, and put it all back together. What did it get me? About a 10 second up / down time for both windows! I am so sick of it, and this seems to be the answer! Please put me down, if you are keeping track of who would want the adapter plates!
Just out of curiosity : Is it possible to swap the internals from the faster motor into the stock fiero case. Would that eliminate all the extra items needed? (What exactly makes them faster? Can that piece be swapped)?
Has anyone had a chance to look into this? Are the motors factory sealed? Can parts be interchanged? If they can be dissembled, this would be the end all solution. No brackets to alter, no shims, shaft length problems, no hitting the track going up and down ect.
Has anyone had a chance to look into this? Are the motors factory sealed? Can parts be interchanged? If they can be dissembled, this would be the end all solution. No brackets to alter, no shims, shaft length problems, no hitting the track going up and down ect.
Too bad it's not that easy. The substitute motor is 3 times the size of the original (thus the greater torque).
it all as i have seen comes down to the worm drive gear on our windows not the speed of the motor. if it was a different gear ratio it would be much faster.... or a different motor. I have held the new motor up side by side with the old fiero window regulator and well you would need to weld some wings on the old regulator and drill some holes to make it fit. I have not seen something easy like a bracket.
I sure hope to have an update for your excellent upgrade for (our) Fiero slow power window fix. Any positive dates? All us Fiero owners are desperately waiting your power window upgrade!👍😀 Cordially, kevin
Sorry there hasn't been an update on this in ages. I've really been concentrating what little time I've had (since parenthood happened) on trying to get my car back on the road. Good news, is that it drives, and that means It doesn't need much work. I deliberately left the door dissasembled in order to keep me from brushing this project aside. Besides, I only have one side working at the moment.
Until I have the issues resolved, I really shouldn't release a product. But my hands are a bit tied time wise. I appologize for this.
Anyway, as summer either wraps up, or I suddenly find myself having extra time on my hands, I will certainly look towards putting a product out.
But again, I just dont have the time at the moment.
Imac, that is percicely what I did. Drilled it out and put in a bushing. The down side is that it makes it a non reversable modification. And, opens the possibilty that you'll ruin their regulator if you are careless when drilling. So, it's not the most preferable way to go about it. But, it's the logical way.
I had a little time the other day to try to get the window lift channel to clear the motor as it passes by. Some simple grinding made it clear just fine. I'm a bit lucky because I've already drilled out all the rivets in the door and replaced them all with Nylock 1/4 -20 bolts and nuts. Not everyone has that done to their windows, so it might be far more difficult to accomplish that part of the modification should it be necessary.
I did clean and re-grease the tracks while I was at it and the window is fast, and quiet!
I also had talked to sluppy123 who has also sucsessfully done this mod, and says his clears. Should be interesting to see what he came up with to make it happen.
Yes, it definitely has to be removed as an assembly if it has not been out before. They rivited it in. Both the assembly AND the motor. So you're going to have to drill quite a few rivets out. I HIGHLY reccomend going to home depot and getting a bunch of 1/4-20 Nylock nuts, and a handful of 1/2" long 1/4-20 bolts, and some 1-1/4" long 1/4-20 bolts and replacing all of those large aluminum rivets with nuts and bolts. I've done this on a few doors and it makes all the difference in the world. Especially the 4 that are in the window glass!
The bushing, unfortunately It's not something I found, I made it on my lathe, ID was 1/4" and OD, I made 1/2". And drilled out the hole that the shaft used to go through. I suppose there might be something out there that will work.
Yes, it definitely has to be removed as an assembly if it has not been out before. They rivited it in. Both the assembly AND the motor. So you're going to have to drill quite a few rivets out. I HIGHLY reccomend going to home depot and getting a bunch of 1/4-20 Nylock nuts, and a handful of 1/2" long 1/4-20 bolts, and some 1-1/4" long 1/4-20 bolts and replacing all of those large aluminum rivets with nuts and bolts. I've done this on a few doors and it makes all the difference in the world. Especially the 4 that are in the window glass!
The bushing, unfortunately It's not something I found, I made it on my lathe, ID was 1/4" and OD, I made 1/2". And drilled out the hole that the shaft used to go through. I suppose there might be something out there that will work.
I found (and bought) flanged bushings 1/4" x 1/2" x 5/8" with a 1/16" flange on Ebay for $2.50 each....other sizes available, note that you must send the seller a message to get a quote on specific sizes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120...559971496%26_rdc%3D1
Somebody please archive this article so it's on permanent display and doesn't get lost in the forum history. It seems like the kind of upgrade every Fiero owner should do.
I've been looking at this the last few days. Here is what I see: The Fiero electric motor sits about .750" above the steel area it mounts to on the Fiero stamped steel lift arm assembly. If you mount this aftermarket electric window motor on that same steel area it sits about 1.200" above that steel mounting area. That means the aftermarket motor sits about .450" higher than the Fiero electric motor. Looking at this I found one can probably get this type of aftermarket electric motor to probably mount on the steel arm assembly an additional 0.060" lower. About 1.140" instead of 1.200". So maybe about .190" lower that how Fierobsessed mounted his. He used 1/8" thick steel for his adapter plate.
Going 0.060" lower now puts the aftermarket electric window motor at about 1.140" compared to the OEM which is 0.750". About .390" higher but lower than mounting it on a 1/8 steel plate which makes it sit at about 1.328" which caused the channel to hit it. You also have to watch the mesh of the spur gear to the stamped steel gear plate the spur gear drives. This 0.060" lower mounting still provides a good height for the spur gear to sit against the stamped steel large gear plate. Going lower (which is probably not possible) would make the large gear want to hit the rubber seal under the spur gear.
The biggest problem is the Fiero electric window motor is lower than these aftermarket motors because it uses an intermediate gear in the stamped steel housing assembly allowing the motor to sit farther away from the large stamped steed gear and at a lower height.
So with the aftermarket motor installed at it's absolute lowest possibly mounting height it still sits about .390" higher than the Fiero OEM electric window motor. Fierobsessed has his mounted at about 1.328". The lowest it can be made to mount on the steel plate is probably about 1.140". So if this additional .190" clearance makes it clear the bracket Fierobsessed says his hit this aftermarket electric window motor idea could be possible.
If some could measure the clearance they have between the factory GM original electric window motor and the channel that passes by it one could see if there is enough room to install these aftermarket electric window motors. That gap would need to be about 0.200" minimum or more.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
[This message has been edited by Rodney (edited 10-22-2015).]
Change my post above to reflect the 1/8" steel plate thickness.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
I have virtually non-existent movement in my windows so waiting for either of you to come out with a kit. Add in the relays for good measure would be my recommendation.
Fierobsessed, It has been awhile since you have been working on your 'faster window project'. Any news on ordering up a complete set? Please say yes...... Cordially, kevin
[This message has been edited by kevin (edited 05-18-2017).]
