I've done it twice. It's a lot of trouble, but sooooo worth it. (I did the second one after I forgot how much trouble the first one was.
)
I have a 93 Beretta tranny. I'm assuming yours is the same, with the hydraulic release bearing.
You might find some useful info here, but most of it centers around that tranny with the 4.9 stuff.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...130314-1-085296.html The hardest part will be converting the pedals, and getting the hydraulic line up to the clutch master cylinder. (You'll need to remove the spare tire well from the front. The automatic tranny cooler lines are removed, and the hydraulic line follows mostly the same path.)
Off the top of my head, you'll need:
5 speed shifter and cables.
Pedals and bracket.
Master cylinder (buy from Rodney Dickman. Pay attention. There are four different combinations of pieces to choose from. Having to do with which hydraulic line you have and which clutch pedal you have.)
Manual tranny / engine wiring harness. (Or reconfigure yours. You'll have to extend some wires and remove some others. If you get a manual harness, try to get one for an 88. There are some differences. Oil sender and alternator wiring. Possibly injector harness connector, too.)
Manual chip for your ECM or manual ECM.
Flywheel. 88 or later 2.8 or 3.1. (Earlier flywheels will not work because the earlier engines were balanced differently. Externally.)
Clutch.
Adapter fitting to mate the Fiero hydraulic line to the Cavalier TOB.
Dakota Digital speedometer adapter (or change the gear in the tranny, which is lots more trouble. Specific to the later tranny only.)
The stock manual Fiero uses a clutch pedal/starter interlock. I chose to omit that, since I learned to drive on a car that had no interlock.
To add it, you'll need a switch and a few feet of that heavy wire that's used to connect it. Splice into the starter wiring under the dash.
The manual steering column also has a key release lever, where the automatic does not. I chose to keep my automatic column, and just remove all the cable interlock hardware. It is recommended to swap in a manual column. Otherwise, it is quite easy to lock the steering with the car in motion.
If you swap to the manual harness you will have to move a wire in the C500 connector. That's the one right above the battery. Not a big deal to do. Just needs to be mentioned.
Hope that helps some. This is NOT a one-weekend project for most people.
But the swap can be done.
Edit - It will help tremendously if you have a manual donor car handy, to pillage for parts. "Incidentals" can nickel and dime you to death, and waste a bunch of your time.
2nd edit - I'm not sure what kind of mounting brackets came on your tranny. If it doesn't have brackets on it you'll have to find those, too. Rodney Dickman sells those, too. (Everything that Rodney sells is top quality stuff. Well worth the funds involved.) Or you may be able to find them in the mall section of the forum. The 4 speed or Isuzu brackets will NOT work, although they look very similar.
Your mounting cushions (the ones that bolt to the cradle, I think are the same.)
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Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550 
Praise the Lowered![This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 06-22-2014).]
