Not stock no, but they did build one that could...i have a pic of it somewhere, they didnt stretch the frame or anything...suspension..aero...and probably some other stuff i dont know. I think they even had a youtube vid of the driver doing it, everything was great but the fuel warning light came on, it needed a better fuel pump. But they did it!
I think the RX7 had a longer wheelbase than the fiero so it was probably ok. Fiero's have really short wheelbases compared to most cars. It's great for corning, but not so much for high speed stability.
Not stock no, but they did build one that could...i have a pic of it somewhere, they didnt stretch the frame or anything...suspension..aero...and probably some other stuff i dont know. I think they even had a youtube vid of the driver doing it, everything was great but the fuel warning light came on, it needed a better fuel pump. But they did it!
But it's also not a Fiero. They are very different cars. Modelling the mods you wish to do to the Fiero off an RX7 isn't going to get you the same results. The RX7 has an advantage with the rotary, that can be built up to run over 10K RPM.
Here's the only video of an RX7 going 200 MPH I've found, that wasn't a purpose built 7 second drag car:
I guess it did go 200 MPH. Once. Needed better aero.
The RX7 im talking about had an orange paint job, like ghost flames, and it had a V8 in her, not a rotary...cool vid though
ANYWAYS, i wanna see how far i can push the Fiero, then mod it, then push it, then mod it...anyone know how fast (in top speed) the fastest Fiero has gone that wasnt a IMSA car or something.
Well, I can tell you that your front end mods are all wrong, for building an aerodynamically stable Fiero at 100+ MPH. The hood vent is in the wrong location, as already pointed out, the openings are too large, and the angles are a bit odd. It looks to me like you're trying to hard to make it look like a second gen RX-7.
There's a couple of Fieros that run high 9s and low 10s quarter mile times. Those are the "fasest" Fieros I know of. And they are making like 800+ HP at the wheels.
Also, if you want to go that fast, then dished wheels are a bad idea. You want smooth wheels like all the Boneville land speed cars have. Dished wheels with spokes are a great way for air to get sucked in and create lift.
Top speed runs are pretty academic as few can undertake them, but yeah, generally low, not too wide and with a decent wheelbase is suitable.
As for handling power with a short wheelbase, the Fiero is 93.4". A car I raced for years (early TVR) had an 85.5" wheelbase and gandled very well, as well as being able to take a lot of power (small block Ford V8). Granted, it didn't have a high polar inertia (which is good for turning on the track), but it was fine up to around 130 mph (maximum on a closed track) and higher if you had the road to do it.
To the OP - that engine looks very at home in there, doesn't it? Maybe you'll start a trend and a home for Ecotecs coming out of written off later cars!
I wouldn't put too much effort into top speed records though - not sure the Fiero is designed for it aerodynamically. I had my turbo 88 to 130 mph briefly, long enough to note some distressing aerodynamic tendencies. BTW, until it was a few years old and the headlight pods had built up enough crud to stay down, they would pop open at around 110.
Like i said, i'll be slowly seeing how fast i can get her up too, my headlights dont pop up at fast speeds bcc of my hood vent, it releases the air pressure under the hood so they dont pop.
I think the main thing that makes a fiero stable at high speed is a lowered car with better shocks and really good tires .The pop up lights have either got to go or tape them up before you try a run .And a vent to get the pressure out behind the rad .Other than that , the natural wedge shape works pretty good .I wont bore everyone with my mods , you can look them up if you want .I had my car doing 130 on a bumpy road and it was rock solid .4500 in 5 th and still climbing fast . I would love to find out how fast it will go , but there is no place around here to do it .Someday I would like to take it to a Texas mile type event but I dont know if that will ever happen .
[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 10-30-2014).]
I would abandon any goals of very high top speed, unless you are going to redesign the suspension I would not want to go that fast in any Fiero. I topped mine out once and I have all polyurethane bushings, all new ball joints and tie rods, new KYB shocks, shop alignment, newish tires, and it does not feel good up there compared to a lot of other cars, I think my minivan is more stable at high speed than the Fiero.
Instead I would focus on neck snapping acceleration since the Fiero has the weight over the rear and can really put some power down
In the meantime, what do u guys think of Blue Fiero's? I always thought they looked kinda tacky (no offense to those with blue fieros) but i found a really nice blue...its 3m matte metallic blue. Might look good on a Fiero?? http://superiorautodesign.c...2013/07/IMG_8874.jpg
Yeah some ppl have done really nice things with blue on the Fiero. like that blue chop top from v8 archie looks cool, but again, i think the matte looks cooler (to me anyway) but noone has done it, so i cant say for sure. Ive seen a few matte black/red Fieros. but thats it. So hard to imagine what your car will look like with original idea's and noone has tried them, u dont wanna waste your money if it fails. bah.
Airflow management is the key to high speed stability.
The lift coefficient a car makes changes with the 4th power of pitch attitude. Longer wheelbases make pitch attitude easier to control, as a given suspension movement results in a smaller angular change of pitch attitude.
That doesn't mean it can't be done on a short wheelbase car... it just means that you have to have your aero very well sorted. Air under the car is the enemy of high speed stability.
no...ive been trying to get ahold of the mechanic. He said a week ago that he should be able to start the engine last wed. So im trying to see if that happened. He has no cell reception at his shop. So i have to wait till he comes to the city for updates. Sorry guys!
I don't see a problem with having a lofty goal, as long as you know that it's going to get pricey with diminishing returns. I will add though, before you start pumping out the power you should start by making sure you've taken care of all the safety related upgrades (such as brakes, suspension, tires, roll cage?)
They finally got the engine started haha! They finished the new fuel pump wiring and plumbing, made sure the engine turns over with the key. Put some oil in her and boom, she fired up np! Thats super cool.
Now They are working on getting the stock gauges to work with the new engine, ordering those sensors someone posted on page 2 or something. And hooking up the IC pipes.
They got the cooling system figured and are about 50% done the IC piping, next after that is the exhaust...i have been debating what I wanted for a design on this exhaust system for like a year...nothing really appealed to me. Then i found this pic...
To me, thats a SWEET exhaust design that would work great looks wise on the Fiero, have it come out where u stick the licence plate. (My license plate would then go in between the rear tail lights, i have 91 rx7 fc3s tail lights in my Fiero with a custom panel in the middle. So it would fit np.)
However today I was told by my mechanic they could do it...but they would have to cut into the trunk area to get the exhaust tips to come out where the license plate goes....ugh....i havnt had my car in like 6 months so i forgot about that...he said he could go under it and have the tips come directly under the licence plate...but i dont know...So i gotta figure that out. I really wanted the tips to come out in the middle of the license plate spot but...i dont wanna cut into the trunk. So i may have no choice.
Other than that, things are progressing very nicely and they are hoping to start dynoing next week!
They finished the coolant lines. They are just finishing the inter-cooler piping. Should be finished by the end of today. Tomorrow they start the exhaust, should be done that day as well. They figured out the gauges, and will test once the exhaust is done an they start up the engine again.
The only snag they seemed to run into is the battery. I got a tray from Archie. Apparently it wont fit the battery in the front and have the spare tire as well. (So it's still in the back) Anyone else have this issue? I have an Optima Yellow top. I still want the battery in the front. Any suggestions guys?
They finished the coolant lines. They are just finishing the inter-cooler piping. Should be finished by the end of today. Tomorrow they start the exhaust, should be done that day as well. They figured out the gauges, and will test once the exhaust is done an they start up the engine again.
The only snag they seemed to run into is the battery. I got a tray from Archie. Apparently it wont fit the battery in the front and have the spare tire as well. (So it's still in the back) Anyone else have this issue? I have an Optima Yellow top. I still want the battery in the front. Any suggestions guys?
Kay we think we figured out the battery relocation...thank God.
Inter-cooler is all done, Exhaust is all done, just crossing the T's and dotting the lower case j's now. Car will go in for dynoing Monday, and looks like she will be done next week!!! I plan to post pics as soon as I can. I should have some tomorrow to post. Thanks for the support guys!
As promised! Pics!! Whole build is exceeding my expectations! They did such a good job, i didnt have time to take too many pics, but i got some good ones of the engine.
The battery hasn't been moved yet...they will move it to the front after the dyno tuning. The installed a positive terminal through the firewall behind the passenger seat? then u can run a wire from that terminal to the front and hook up the battery that way without running wires under the car. Also i can still hook up my stereo amp behind the passenger seat like i did before without running a power cable to the front battery. (Well i guess technically we are still...but the amp install will be easier)
I will have more pics once i get my car back this week sometime. I will post pics of all the work they did and the dyno chart. Also hoping to have a video of the engine running and revving, as well as some pulls on the highway. 9That one might have to wait till summer but yeah...)
Dyno tuning is taking longer than expected. hasn't started yet. AFI is sending my mechanic a better base tune to work with. My tuner is hoping to have it tuned either tonight or by Monday for sure. He is going to send me a video of a dyno pull full throttle. I'll post it sometime between now and Monday.
Im not sure yet. i just got a text from the dyno guy, he has horrible cell reception where the dyno is. I'll have a picture of the dyno sheet with all the info soon this week. (But i think we are aiming around 15 psi)
Im not sure yet. i just got a text from the dyno guy, he has horrible cell reception where the dyno is. I'll have a picture of the dyno sheet with all the info soon this week. (But i think we are aiming around 15 psi)
16 psi is where the 2.0 LNF's make 260 HP/TQ at so with .4 liters more displacement and a 10.4:1 compression ratio vs the LNF's 9.2:1 you should be right around 300 HP at the wheels with a ton of TQ. You are really going to like this...
Keep an eye on your intake temps .With higher boost , that becomes critical for stock pistons to survive .The LE5 intake will split wide open at 20 PSI so something to avoid if you manage to get the boost up there .Great dyno results so far .
Keep an eye on your intake temps .With higher boost , that becomes critical for stock pistons to survive .The LE5 intake will split wide open at 20 PSI so something to avoid if you manage to get the boost up there .Great dyno results so far .
Yeah, still having issues getting the tach and speedo to read apparently with the LE5, all other gauges work though....but i do need a boost guage, air/fuel ratio and fuel pressure to monitor everything. But i dont want the car to look all cluttered with gauges. i know some ppl like that, but that's not my style) im looking into adding an IQ3 racepak Dash to replace the stock Fiero gauges in the dash. I can get all the gauges i want to run through that unit. (There is even a data logging version of the IQ3 for more money, so i can keep tuning and making small adjustments for weather) I have a magden M.1B computer that displays other gauges on an 8'' lcd screen via the OBD2 port. One of those gauges is the Intake temps. However im pretty sure if i remember correctly, i got a new intake manifold with my engine built to withstand way higher boost numbers. So i think im safe, but i'll double check, thanks for that.
The tuning issue we are running into now (and i would appreciate any advise or help) is tuning the engine for cold starting, like our famous canadian -40 winter cold starts....right now my car dyno'd at 301 wheel hp and i think 310ft pounds of torque if i remember correctly. They are just getting it to get there smoother which will be np. and all the numbers look good while on the dyno...but once my car goes outside into the cold even after my engine warms up...i might need to change the tune bcc the air fuel might change...ect...so i need to keep an eye on that. And i really want my car to cold start like any normal car...obv i'll let her idle and warm up like any other car, i just dont want my car to be useless if its really cold out and my nice new Fiero wont start bcc of the tune. But my tuners dyno is inside a heated garage and it's not the same...any advise on that?
Yeah, still having issues getting the tach and speedo to read apparently with the LE5, all other gauges work though....but i do need a boost guage, air/fuel ratio and fuel pressure to monitor everything. But i dont want the car to look all cluttered with gauges. i know some ppl like that, but that's not my style) im looking into adding an IQ3 racepak Dash to replace the stock Fiero gauges in the dash. I can get all the gauges i want to run through that unit. (There is even a data logging version of the IQ3 for more money, so i can keep tuning and making small adjustments for weather) I have a magden M.1B computer that displays other gauges on an 8'' lcd screen via the OBD2 port. One of those gauges is the Intake temps. However im pretty sure if i remember correctly, i got a new intake manifold with my engine built to withstand way higher boost numbers. So i think im safe, but i'll double check, thanks for that.
The tuning issue we are running into now (and i would appreciate any advise or help) is tuning the engine for cold starting, like our famous canadian -40 winter cold starts....right now my car dyno'd at 301 wheel hp and i think 310ft pounds of torque if i remember correctly. They are just getting it to get there smoother which will be np. and all the numbers look good while on the dyno...but once my car goes outside into the cold even after my engine warms up...i might need to change the tune bcc the air fuel might change...ect...so i need to keep an eye on that. And i really want my car to cold start like any normal car...obv i'll let her idle and warm up like any other car, i just dont want my car to be useless if its really cold out and my nice new Fiero wont start bcc of the tune. But my tuners dyno is inside a heated garage and it's not the same...any advise on that?
Originally posted by 4thfiero: And i really want my car to cold start like any normal car...obv i'll let her idle and warm up like any other car, i just dont want my car to be useless if its really cold out and my nice new Fiero wont start bcc of the tune. But my tuners dyno is inside a heated garage and it's not the same...any advise on that?
Block heater? The air temperature shouldn't be a problem. The sensors should read appropriate values at the MAF and MAP for the air density at those temperatures. You just need to make sure the fuel isn't frozen in the line, and the fuel map tables in the ECM give the right amount of fuel for those sensor values.
