Interesting! My tuner said that the maps on the tune could be perfect and i will have no issues, but i need to monitor the air/fuel ratio once driving to be safe. i guess its all up in the air right now...
Block heater? The air temperature shouldn't be a problem. The sensors should read appropriate values at the MAF and MAP for the air density at those temperatures. You just need to make sure the fuel isn't frozen in the line, and the fuel map tables in the ECM give the right amount of fuel for those sensor values.
Oh and yes i have an oil pan heater, not a block heater. There was no room for a block heater with the turbo manifold and such.
Oh and yes i have an oil pan heater, not a block heater. There was no room for a block heater with the turbo manifold and such.
Really? A heater that replaces a freeze plugshould work for you. Though I guess at this point you'd also have to drain the block and pay for additional labor to install it and however much additional coolant to replace it would require. :P
(edit: did have a link to some freeze plug heaters in there, but the forum is screwing it up for some reason.)
[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 12-31-2014).]
I saw the link before the edit, thank you., yeah where u can install that frost plug heater is right where the turbo manifold is. no room, we could install an in-line coolant heater directly into the coolant lines...but according to my research we wont need one if i have an oil pan heater. So i'll see how the engine starting goes in the winter with the oil pan heater, and if it needs more heat (which i doubt) then i'll get an in line coolant heater i guess. haha.
i hope not either, but it has never done that too me yet with my old engine, even when i forgot to plug her in. plus a block heater doesnt quite heat up the coolant in the tubes under the car though right? just the area around the freeze plug. At least thats what i read.
i hope not either, but it has never done that too me yet with my old engine, even when i forgot to plug her in. plus a block heater doesnt quite heat up the coolant in the tubes under the car though right? just the area around the freeze plug. At least thats what i read.
Well, the block heater heats the coolant that's in the block. Since the coolant is in direct contact with the heating element in that case, heat should pass through the coolant back up the tubes. But the coldest point of the coolant in that case will be the furthest point from the heating element, of course.
If you haven't had a problem so far with the coolant you're using though, you should be fine.
The factory temperature compensation curve should work just fine. Air doesn't change because you're running an aftermarket turbo.
But the ECU isnt factory tuned...like i dont think it had a factory tune file in it, bcc when we first started the engine it ran like crap...thats what im worried about.
Originally posted by 4thfiero: But the ECU isnt factory tuned...like i dont think it had a factory tune file in it, bcc when we first started the engine it ran like crap...thats what im worried about.
The ECU must have had a tune in it, otherwise the engine wouldn't have run. It ran like crap because many things about your engine are different from the factory engine the ECU was tuned for, so it was probably using the wrong amount of fuel, possibly getting a few readings wrong, etc…
Sounds like you need to talk with alpha fab and see what the tune was supposed to include .Since you bought an all inclusive package , you should only have to do minimum tuning .Did your tuner change the injector constant ?Bigger injectors run like crap at low speeds without changing the constant value .
If they started with a factory ecm & tune for your engine, then the cold start parameters should be fairly close unless they swapped in an aggressive camshaft or don't have accurate injector flow rate information (assuming you are using larger injectors than stock) . WOT and part throttle/closed loop tuning happens in other tables, so it shouldn't impact cold start performance.
Interesting, i know the injectors are different. Larger, so that changes things. Ill speak to alpha fab again and see what the base tune includes and whats different on the engine from factory.
If they started with a factory ecm & tune for your engine, then the cold start parameters should be fairly close unless they swapped in an aggressive camshaft or don't have accurate injector flow rate information (assuming you are using larger injectors than stock) . WOT and part throttle/closed loop tuning happens in other tables, so it shouldn't impact cold start performance.
This... The injector flow rate for the Siemens 60's is easy to get, but did they get the right dead time numbers? That might impact extreme cold starts.
Okay...so the tuning is almost done. That's good news...as for the gauges. The IQ3 is gonna be very pricey with all the sensors and connectors. My tuner says he thinks he can get the factory tach to work with an msd pickup wire for 75 bucks. so thats cool, he's gonna try to figure out the speedo. (If anyone has any idea's how to make the stock speedo work with my engine im all ears)
As for adding new gauges (boost, a/f ratio and fuel pressure) I figured out that i can buy a zeitronix ZT-2 wideband controller, and hook that into my Magden M.1b computer in my car and display those gauges via my lcd screen. And i can even get additional sensors with the ZT-2 to replace my stock oil pressure and volt gauge and add those to my magden as well (since my lcd screen is going to be mounted where the stock oil p and volt goes. So thats where we are now. Below is a couple pics of the magden computer box and the box displaying over an lcd screen in a car. I bought the same LCD screen for my car. Just to give u guys an idea of what it'll look like. As well as the ZT-2 wideband.
This... The injector flow rate for the Siemens 60's is easy to get, but did they get the right dead time numbers? That might impact extreme cold starts.
I needed them a while ago, these are the values I used in my "base tune"
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Okay stock tach and speedo work!!! Whoo...tuning is done...just waiting for the Zeitronix ZT2 wideband kit to complete the gauges and tune. Vehicle was left outside last night (not plugged in) and when tuner went to start it. It stalled the first time, but when he started it the second time it stayed on and idles fine. He needs the O2 sensor (wideband) to see what the car is doing (rich or lean) on cold start.
Just gotta tweak that, hook up the zt2 to the magden computer and lcd screen to display my fuel pressure, oil pressure, and a/f ratio.
The wideband kit did come today, im gonna get it to the shop tomorrow. I was busy programming the smart usb to serial cable to let the Magden talk to the ZT2 and add those extra gauges. Im hoping to have her all running by end of the week, if not early next week. Done and finished. i'll send lots of pics after.
Should be getting my car back Monday!!!!! Can't wait.
Also, i wanted to get an alarm/remote start for my vehicle (to protect my new stuff and to allow the engine to warm up in our cold winters) The mechanic suggested an alarm for sure, but said he wouldnt recommend a remote start....i havnt had a chance to chat with him but, is there any reason that a remote start would in any way HARM my engine??? Is there a rule against remote starts in vehicles with engine swaps?
Remote starts are really for autos. Lots of risk installing them on a manual transmission car. You have to bypass the clutch safety, and hope you remembered to park the car in Reverse. Otherwise, you are going to start the car and it will smack into something in front of it or behind it or take off running down the street.
If you could put 2 safeties in where the remote start would only work with the parking brake on and the transmission could be verified in N then it could be made to work, but if you don't make it a habit to put it in N and pull the parking brake every time you park, then you might push the button on a cold morning and not have it do anything.
Originally posted by fieroguru: Remote starts are really for autos. Lots of risk installing them on a manual transmission car. You have to bypass the clutch safety, and hope you remembered to park the car in Reverse. Otherwise, you are going to start the car and it will smack into something in front of it or behind it or take off running down the street.
If you could put 2 safeties in where the remote start would only work with the parking brake on and the transmission could be verified in N then it could be made to work, but if you don't make it a habit to put it in N and pull the parking brake every time you park, then you might push the button on a cold morning and not have it do anything.
I plan on remote start in my car. The OEM remote start on GM cars have several safety sensors in place. Doors must be locked, must be in park, and hood must be closed, for example.
Myself, I always park in neutral with the parking brake on, unless I'm on a hill, then I might put it in reverse or a forward gear just in case the parking brake slips any.
But yeah, the reasons you state are why GM and others don't offer remote start on manual cars.
[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 02-01-2015).]
Interesting, i too always park with the hand brake on and my tranny in N. My car actually doesnt have a neutral safety switch, never had one. (I dont know why...) The car before the rebuild was an 86 SE v6 4 speed, thats how it came from the factory, and it never had the safety switch in it.
So besides the safety stuff for auto starting...is there any other reason why not to have a remote start in a car with an engine swap?
Originally posted by 4thfiero: Interesting, i too always park with the hand brake on and my tranny in N. My car actually doesnt have a neutral safety switch, never had one. (I dont know why...) The car before the rebuild was an 86 SE v6 4 speed, thats how it came from the factory, and it never had the safety switch in it.
So besides the safety stuff for auto starting...is there any other reason why not to have a remote start in a car with an engine swap?
It has nothing to do with the engine swap, and everything to do with being a manual.
Manuals tend to have a clutch switch, and you can't start the car without using the clutch. There's no need for a neutral safety switch in that condition, as the clutch is depressed. It's also not terribly trivial to have a neutral safety switch on a manual shifter, as the shifter doesn't move along a single axis, and neutral isn't an exact position in the shifter.
If you look carefully , you will probably find that the clutch switch has been removed and the wires tied together .These switches do not hold up awfully well , and a lot of car MFR do not use them any way , so for most people as soon as they see how it works they just bypass the switch to save a few bucks .My 86 GT 4speed has a switch up on the clutch pedal arm mount . When it breaks , it will be bypassed .There is no neutral safety switch as you said .
[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 02-02-2015).]
My father in law bought me a remote start and had it installed as a surprise in my accord last christmas. It's a manual so as part of the remote start's programming, the car has to be shut down in a certain pattern, pressing a key on the fob with the brake in, then ebrake, then it leaves the car running until it is remotely locked, or something like that. This way the remote start knows that the car is in neutral and the ebrake is in place and safe to remotely start. Now if you unlike the car because you forgot something then you'd have to restart it manually and shut it down in sequence again, because as soon as you unlike the car door when the motor is not running, it doesn't know if you put it into gear or not, so it errs on the side of safety and disengages the remote start.
I believe it is a viper remote start, but I am sure others if not most will have some sort of safety programmed in for manual cars.
Yeah i talked to my mechanic about it, he said nothing is impossible...apparently he has a guy who can do a remote start on my car. I do want someone associated with my mechanic to do it. Who knows all the wiring we did.
Good news though.... THE CAR IS DONE!!!!! I wont be able to pick it up till Friday bcc of work but, apparently it drives excellent, shop says they 'created a monster' i cant wait!!
Originally posted by 4thfiero: Good news though.... THE CAR IS DONE!!!!! I wont be able to pick it up till Friday bcc of work but, apparently it drives excellent, shop says they 'created a monster' i cant wait!!
Nice. Going to mount a GoPro or two on it and take it for a few drives?
I hope he lives in BC .With all the snow we are getting , if I took my Fiero out I would be taking it for a few spins into the ditch .We need more pics , glad it is fully operational .
....Terrifying....just terrifying....she's such a beast! I can't believe it....shop did an awesome job..
I will post some pics and vids tomorrow I think, im unable too today.
Car still needs to be cold start tuned (anyone have advise on that whe its -30 and not plugged in for hours?) She starts np even not plugged in at -23, but needs your foot on the gas for about a min before she's warmed up enough to idle herself. (Is there like a...."if ECU temp is X then idle at 2k....then at a certain temp idle at 1.5...then just idle as per normal?" setting in HP tuners?) My mechanic couldnt get it tuned bcc the AFR gauge displays on the magden computer which takes 30 seconds to boot, by then the readings arnt fresh and he cant tune properly. But he said he ordered another O2 and gauge just to temp install and he will try to fix it that way...
but once she's warm it revs smooth, and goes...holy...
South-bend stage 3 clutch is nice, i dont have to push hard with my left foot or anything, clutch catches high and is grabby...i wish it was a tiny bit less grabby. But i guess ill get used to it.
Also i need to change the muffler...she roars like a beast lol...it is my daily driver, so ill get a quieter muffler, (any recommendations?)
Other than that? Shoot...cars insane...probably twice a fast as my stock 94 supra tt. just scary, i will probably drive her at 30% 90% of the time lol...
