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Fiero Air Conditioning Parts List by RWDPLZ
Started on: 07-20-2014 03:50 PM
Replies: 35 (5709 views)
Last post by: RWDPLZ on 07-31-2023 09:12 PM
RWDPLZ
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Report this Post07-20-2014 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
O-Rings:





Switches:





The black piece on the clutch cycling switch is removable, it protects the terminals in shipping.





Valve Cores:





Valve Core Tool:



Orifice Tubes and Label:





AC Delco Retrofit Label:

[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 08-02-2023).]

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Report this Post07-20-2014 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KnightSend a Private Message to KnightEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OMG that's a lot of parts!
Does anybody make a upgrade kit that has the o-rings, the high and low side port adapters, the orifice tube and accumulator? Or is any part of this in kit form?
Did I leave any thing out? I want to convert to 134A and was just wondering if someone had a complete list of parts and you post this. Great timing. Seriously. Thanks.
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Report this Post07-20-2014 07:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Outstanding parts list for AC work. As this one thread contains all the part numbers this should save people a lot of time. I've got it bookmarked into my favorites for reference. BTW, what are you thoughts regarding the variable orifice tubes? Good idea or a waste of money?
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Report this Post07-20-2014 09:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wow great post! We need more like this one. Pluses for you.

A couple years ago I overhauled the a/c on one of our cars. All the information was on PFF, but certainly not all in one place. It took allot of looking around to put together the parts list I needed.

Very nice post!
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post07-20-2014 09:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Knight:

OMG that's a lot of parts!
Does anybody make a upgrade kit that has the o-rings, the high and low side port adapters, the orifice tube and accumulator? Or is any part of this in kit form?



Short answer, no. I've cataloged a few o-ring assortments, some even sold as being for the Fiero, and the closest I've found is one that has all but one of the O-rings (Four Seasons 26735, missing one #8 captured o-ring). The 'kits' you see at parts stores are just too generic, and the off-the-shelf fittings are generally of poor quality.

 
quote
Originally posted by gtoformula:

BTW, what are you thoughts regarding the variable orifice tubes? Good idea or a waste of money?



I put one in my car, and it works fine.
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Report this Post07-21-2014 12:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Great post and book marking as others...

Question though.. What r the o rings description for the hoses coming from under car and connecting to the hoses that go to the compressor? I need to replace these 2.

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Report this Post07-21-2014 01:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KnightSend a Private Message to KnightEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What are the difference in the orifice tubes and what are the advantages over the standard tube?
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post07-21-2014 08:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MstangsBware:

Question though.. What r the o rings description for the hoses coming from under car and connecting to the hoses that go to the compressor? I need to replace these 2.


Compressor hose discharge end and Compressor hose suction end

84:



85+:



85+ Hose end:



 
quote
Originally posted by Knight:

What are the difference in the orifice tubes and what are the advantages over the standard tube?



http://www.acsource.com/sma...nceorificetubes.aspx

[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 07-21-2014).]

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Report this Post07-27-2014 11:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for josef644Send a Private Message to josef644Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Lots of great information here. I would know that white front fender and the thumb picture anytime:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-27-2014).]

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Report this Post06-18-2016 07:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
BUMP - the information is too valuable here to get lost...

Thanks RDWPLZ...

------------------
My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-18-2016).]

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Report this Post06-18-2016 08:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

fierosound

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Member since Nov 1999
Questions....

The Service Manuals seem to be out to lunch on their torque specs...

Anyone else notice this?

The inline fittings on the high pressure side lines are generally 30 ft/lbs, the low pressure side line fittings are 17 ft/lbs.

I really worry with the 30 ft/lb torque on the high side. You keep worrying you will strip the nuts.
Then when you take it apart, the end of the tube has slightly deformed and it can be very problematic separating it.

The Manual then has only 3 ft/lbs of torque applied to the hose manifold connection to the compressor.
These seem to be the same in all the manuals from 84 to 88 no matter what the compressor.
I could see this may be adequate for the compressors with O-rings.

But with the steel Sealing Washers it has to be under-torqued??
I checked around and didn't see any other car with such a low torque spec for that manifold connection.
I'm wondering if that's just a recycled typo in the manuals?

Fours Seasons recommends 25 ft/lbs here
https://www.4s.com/media/37...-sealing-washers.pdf

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-25-2022).]

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Report this Post06-20-2016 07:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1MohrFieroSend a Private Message to 1MohrFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Does anyone have a good source for new condensers and evaporators? With all the Fiero's suffering from Black Death now, I'm sure they would be helpful.

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Report this Post06-20-2016 08:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 1MohrFiero:

Does anyone have a good source for new condensers and evaporators? With all the Fiero's suffering from Black Death now, I'm sure they would be helpful.



I just installed a brand new, made in USA condenser in my Indy. It fit beautifully - OEM quality.
I bought it off eBay in 2014 (yup - been sitting in the box until this weekend)

The info on my paperwork is:
(website not working www.amcmfg.com )

John W. Paschal
AMC Imports
1040 4th Street
Graham
TX 76450-3208
Phone: (940) 549-0288

3 different companies selling condensers on eBay
Prices range from $270 to $285
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.h...o+condenser&_sacat=0

Evaporators are harder to come by.
I think I got a used one for my Indy...


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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-04-2022).]

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Report this Post06-22-2016 04:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageSend a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
To add, if you don't open the lines, (where the o-rings go) you do not have to change them for a 134a conversion, that was the old school of thought, just to save everyone ALOT of hassle. This comes from the EPA themselves.

The difference between the fixed and variable orifice tubes takes ALOT of reading from the designer, to summarize, the variable helps to draw liquid instead of gas when you are supposed to draw liquid. (Both will work in a Fiero)

Also for the V5, the Compressor Control Valve, (The most common thing to go out on a V5 BTW) comes in different ratings, (the color dot on the end) one side of the scale is for R-12 the other side of the scale is for 134a, get the right one for what you are using.

And the factory low pressure switch is still available. Santech MT0207 at autozone, AND has a screw in it that adjusts the pressure.
Or also we have a STACK of them we pulled off Fieros, probably like 50+

I deal alot with A/C here is Vegas as it is just stupid hot here.


Edit to add: Fierosound...you really need A/C in Canada? Really?


------------------
"DRIVE IT LIKE A FIERO"
'84 Fiero, engine to be determined '87 Duke (Sold)
'87 Quad 4 H.O.
'87Blue GT 3.4L Swap Completed!!!!!!!! Boosted!!!!!!!
^^^^ Now in the Construction Zone^^^^
Las Vegas Fiero Club Parts/Sales/Service/Club
Fiero Road Club Of Northern Nevada
Now on my 11th Fiero

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 06-22-2016).]

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Report this Post06-22-2016 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by sardonyx247:

Edit to add: Fierosound...you really need A/C in Canada? Really?



It's only June, but I may need it later...


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Report this Post06-24-2016 09:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierobugSend a Private Message to fierobugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the parts list reminders. Second rebuild of ac - reman compressor leaking. Orifice clogged. Bought a new one this time. Question is - "experts" recommend new muffler hose - not to be flushed. Can't afford it. Many have been successful I assume flushing it.. Will flush everything else best I can. Any suggestions for cleaning greatly appreciated. Cleaned using Flush bottle. Not all bad got a couple years out of 1st conversion. Learn as you go DUH! Don't want to do this AGAIN THOUGH!.

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FIEROBUG!!!!!!!!!!

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Report this Post08-18-2016 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just wanted to add this page for Sealing Washers used for compressors
https://www.4s.com/media/37...-sealing-washers.pdf

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-25-2022).]

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Report this Post07-01-2018 11:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good list.
87-88 Dukes have V5 compressor and may need different hose seals at that point. Check #'s before ordering. (check anyway for change/discontinued #.)

Note:
High Side R134 have several types to convert R12.
Many are just adapters using old R12 valve core.
Some others have a new core.

Any using old R12 type core uses part of test port as a seat to seal them. Often that section gets damage and leaks.
Adapters w/ new valve stops the leaks here.

Many can install w/o removing old core but check.
Strait ones new core tip reaches old core.
Angle ones compress the old core all the time during/after install. Might leak some to install.

Alternately can use a metal high side R12 cap and permanent seal then use a saddle R134 high side but is more work/cost. Can't find a pict for best ones for cars but work sim to ice maker taps for plumbing. (Found other but not w/ right part for cars.)

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

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Report this Post07-05-2018 07:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RPYRAZOOClick Here to visit RPYRAZOO's HomePageSend a Private Message to RPYRAZOOEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
With a complete change over to 134a is a new orifice tube necessary and which one of the 3 is suitable. Also, where can I find one? '87 V-6 stock.
Thanks again,
R
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Report this Post07-05-2018 09:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A new one is a good idea, the passage inside is microscopic, and the screens act as a filter keep junk from being sucked through the system and into the compressor. The standard ones are $2.00 and almost every parts store will have them. I had to special order the other ones previously.

The more expensive $30 variable ones are made to improve cooling when the car is stopped, like in traffic or just idling. It's meant to more closely mimic the operation of the thermal expansion valve used by most non-GM systems. Standard VS Variable though, nobody seems to agree if it's worth it or not. One thing to consider is it introduces moving parts to what previously was dead simple, introducing a potential failure point.

If you can get good performance from the standard one, I wouldn't bother upgrading. If the standard orifice tube doesn't perform well at idle or in traffic, it may be worth trying to see if conditions improve.
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Report this Post07-05-2018 11:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wgpierceSend a Private Message to wgpierceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
RWDPLZ, can we add compressors to this? I think that would be very helpful for people researching what they need. For me it was tough to figure out which part number HR6 Compressor to use on my 87 2.8. I know now, but it would have been very helpful and handty to have it here, which is what I used to get the right switches etc to rebuild my system.

Also, should you ask Cliff to put this in the how to section to keep it out of the archives? It is incredibly valuable info, thank you!

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Report this Post07-06-2018 01:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:
The more expensive $30 variable ones are made to improve cooling when the car is stopped, like in traffic or just idling. It's meant to more closely mimic the operation of the thermal expansion valve used by most non-GM systems. Standard VS Variable though, nobody seems to agree if it's worth it or not. One thing to consider is it introduces moving parts to what previously was dead simple, introducing a potential failure point.
Standard VS Variable orifice tube is tough call. A lot of money for what they are. Many hate them others love them. May work w/ clutch slapper types like HR6/DA6 but won't use it w/ V5/V7 because may mess up the control valve in them because basically two things are trying to do same job.

"Standard OT" can have different colors too. GM etc have 2 or more, White (and Black/White) for R12 and some cars another color for R134a w/ different (smaller I think) hole size. (Ford had 5 colors w/ different hole sizes.) Example Only publitas.com TX2611 TX0056 TX2616 I see many GM site are using the blue tube w/ R134 but have not tried this.

Other "Expansion Valves" often have different names depending car/truck Brands but many are same... Often on the firewall, 2 or 4 lines going to a large block and "UFO" disk on one side.
When they are bad often acts like no refrigerant yet can cause very high side pressure when use a full manifold gauge set. If completely bad can or Worse many are fooled by ads saying just add refrigerant and make more problems causing to blowing out high side parts. That can cause Hundreds of $ to fix them. I recently got rid of a car w/ this setup because dead AC cost to much to fix.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 07-06-2018).]

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Report this Post09-19-2018 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IwannaIRMSend a Private Message to IwannaIRMEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:


http://www.acsource.com/sma...nceorificetubes.aspx



Where can I buy this complete setup? acsource appears to be closed.
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Report this Post09-24-2018 06:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierobugSend a Private Message to fierobugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You need to purchase a new compressor. Dont do what I did and get a rebuilt to fail later . TOO MUCH WORK to redo. Autozone has a kit. A/C Replacement kit
New. HR6 compressor. Includes: compressor, accumulator, white orifice tube, compressor oil, O-ring kit. Complete Kit Includes #s: 58255, 33181, 38623. Get an HR6 not a DA6. This is for 87 2.8 Good Luck

------------------
FIEROBUG!!!!!!!!!!

[This message has been edited by fierobug (edited 09-24-2018).]

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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post09-27-2018 08:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IwannaIRM:


Where can I buy this complete setup? acsource appears to be closed.


Looks like the link is back up.

 
quote


SMART VOV - High Performance Orifice Tubes

Now your customers can have:

5° - 12°F colder air (at hot idle)
Reduced compressor load and extended compressor life
Improved performance when converting from R-12 to R-134a
Improved city fuel economy & emissions
Improved performance in factory R134a systems

How it works

The Smart VOV (variable orifice valve) uses system pressure and refrigerant flow to move a metering piston relative to a fixed opening in the sleeve. The piston movement is resisted by an attached spring.

When idling at high ambient temperatures, the piston shifts to a smaller metering area similar to a TXV. This compensates for the reduced compressor output and increases the cooling performance. The Smart VOV also has a unique re-open feature which reduces compressor pressure for severe idle conditions.

At highway speeds, the Smart VOV operates on a large orifice. The net result is better performance than a TXV without the complexity or reliability concerns.

Unlike a TXV, which has constantly moving parts and small internal clearances, the Smart VOV is stationary during most operating conditions and has large internal clearances. Its low friction floating design insures smooth operation and extremely long life.
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Report this Post08-04-2019 06:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike in SydneySend a Private Message to Mike in SydneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
For o-rings, you might want to look at TFS (the Fiero Store). I purchased a conversion kit R12 to R134a from them with all the o-rings and fittings and compressor oil. Cost is around US $40. Suggest you get a new refrigerant accumulator and orifice tube. Have a shop pull a vacuum on the system before you recharge and make sure it holds.

------------------
Mike in Sydney

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Report this Post05-29-2020 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sledcaddieSend a Private Message to sledcaddieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:


I put one in my car, and it works fine.


What is the advantage of using the variable orifice?

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Report this Post05-29-2020 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The variable orifice will allow your a/c to stay "close" to full cold when sitting at idle (ex. stop light). It's worth the extra few dollars if you're going to change the orifice anyway.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 05-29-2020).]

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Report this Post06-02-2020 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
RWDPLZ posted a great list of parts for all our A/C needs, his lists were made in 2014. I used his list however some of the parts I needed have had their numbers updated since. Below are the parts I used to replace a faulty compressor. Many thanks again to RWDPLZ for his many detailed A/C repair postings, they have been very helpful !!!

I needed a new compressor due to leak in compressor case (end cap) on a 10yr. old reman #57255, HR-6 compressor.

Parts used were for a '87GT A/C previously converted to R134A. This list will also work for converting your '87 from R-12 system to R134A.

Reman. compressor (HR-6, Four Seasons # 57255) New compressor would be the Four Seasons #58255. I used the reman. as it was a warranty replacement.
Accumulator /Dryer (Murray 70-3660)
O-rings R-134A type (Murray kit #26375)
Varible orifice (Murray #38902, red)
High pressure switch (Murray #35972, purple, low on 283psi)
Used OEM low pressure switch (red, single wire)
A/C oil Ester 100 w/leak detector (4oz. compressor, 4oz. drier).
R134a Freon 4-12oz. cans.

These parts were purchased at O'Reilly Auto. All are also available at Rock Auto.

R-134a System Pressure Chart:
http://acprocold.com/faq/r-...stem-pressure-chart/

Tested 75*F OAT, normal A/C setting, 32psi low port, 180 psi high port, 38*F at center interior vent. Drive test 75*F, 40* at center vent. Variable oriface works great!

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 06-03-2020).]

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cam-a-lot
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Report this Post07-05-2023 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cam-a-lotSend a Private Message to cam-a-lotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello

Great article- needs to stay out of archives.

Trying to rememnber the correct WEIGHT of R 134A to charge my system on a V6 Fiero (has 3800 compressor)

please advise? Ogre's link is broken

[This message has been edited by cam-a-lot (edited 07-05-2023).]

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Report this Post07-05-2023 06:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cam-a-lot:

Hello

Great article- needs to stay out of archives.

Trying to rememnber the correct WEIGHT of R 134A to charge my system on a V6 Fiero (has 3800 compressor)

please advise? Ogre's link is broken



80-90% of the R-12's original 2.5lb capacity, which would be about 2.25lbs, or about 3 of the 12oz cans.
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cam-a-lot
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Report this Post07-05-2023 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cam-a-lotSend a Private Message to cam-a-lotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks

If using a proper AC machine at a garage, do I still need to get them to manually add Ester oil? When they vacuum out the system, does the oil come out too?
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post07-06-2023 02:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cam-a-lot:

Thanks

If using a proper AC machine at a garage, do I still need to get them to manually add Ester oil? When they vacuum out the system, does the oil come out too?


If you're performing a new conversion, you'll need to remove the old 525 viscosity mineral oil. Total oil capacity for the Fiero is 8oz, no matter what type.

Many recovery machines are capable of flushing the old oil, but it's not as simple as just connecting the hoses to the low and high side ports.

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cam-a-lot
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Report this Post07-07-2023 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cam-a-lotSend a Private Message to cam-a-lotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks

It is not a new conersion, car is already on R134A. Just seems to have a small leak that I cannot find. so I have to re-fill it each summer

I did add ester oil when compressor and accumulator were changed a couple of years ago. Should still be in the system I would think

I have new orifice ready to go, just wondering if I should be worried about ester oil
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richard in nc
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Report this Post07-08-2023 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for richard in ncSend a Private Message to richard in ncEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cam-a-lot:

Hello

Great article- needs to stay out of archives.

Trying to rememnber the correct WEIGHT of R 134A to charge my system on a V6 Fiero (has 3800 compressor)

please advise? Ogre's link is broken



this for a 2.5 or 2.8?im not sure it matters.i bought a 1987 se?2.5/auto.the po said the ac worked but was knocking so he removed the belt.id love to have ac.
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post07-31-2023 09:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I went through my old files, and found most of the images that got nuked when the image server went down, restored to the first post.
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