hey buddycraigg,you said you ran for a month with the solenoid disconnected and 2 wires shorted ,and no code 32,my code 32 just started monday morning ,cant afford to fix it yet ,...which wires are done or could you draw me a diagram on how to bypass ,so the light will quit glowing in my face ,i drive alot at night ,thanks keith
Hi, folks....where is the "ECM TempSensor" located at? Is this the same as the "temp guage sensor" located below the ignition coil area? I'm also getting a code 32 but it may stay off for 2 to 3 days, then come back. It's just annoying. I noticed that it comes on when the engine gets hot after driving the car a while. The car is not overheating but the ambient Texas temp is hot. Good write up Buddycraigg...+ for you, Bud..
hey buddycraigg,you said you ran for a month with the solenoid disconnected and 2 wires shorted ,and no code 32,my code 32 just started monday morning ,cant afford to fix it yet ,...which wires are done or could you draw me a diagram on how to bypass ,so the light will quit glowing in my face ,i drive alot at night ,thanks keith
where the two red arrows are.
people claim that it will damage the engine, but i haven't seen it happen
if it comes back, then it's from the ECM temp sensor.
Well I have had this code 32 problem since they gave me the car back (after having installed the remanufactured 3.4). I decided to go out and look at it tonight and these two plastic lines were not connected. I connected them, took the car for a spin (a few miles) and no check engine light. Woooo Hooo....will take a longer drive tomorrow but think this may have fixed the problem. thanks
------------------ ------------------ "what you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul"
if those lines were not hooked up, then you would have 1 a vacuum leak at anything above idle 2 the egr solenoid would not be able to send a vacuum signal to the sensor or the egr valve. so you would get a code 32
Hi, folks....where is the "ECM TempSensor" located at? Is this the same as the "temp guage sensor" located below the ignition coil area? I'm also getting a code 32 but it may stay off for 2 to 3 days, then come back. It's just annoying. I noticed that it comes on when the engine gets hot after driving the car a while. The car is not overheating but the ambient Texas temp is hot. Good write up Buddycraigg...+ for you, Bud..
and BTW, i'm probably close to 12 months now. and i still havent killed the engine on my daily driver.
I'm located here in KC and having some engine problems that have now led to the code 32 popping up. Lately the past couple weeks noticed bad sluggish reaction on cold mornings even when I thought I had warmed up my car but then would level off as I got to cruising speeds. 10-20 minutes later the engine light would come on and the code 32. When It was getting sluggish I would have to let off the gas or I would kill it almost like a misfire (or likr running out of gas, never happens in a Fiero). The past 2 days I noticed a backfire and in the middle of driving traffic I would hit the gas easily and the whole car would tremble and nearly die. Not a good thing on 71 hwy through the triangle with no where to go. Is the engine crapping out have anything to do with the code 32? Also your thread has answered a long question of mine about the large tube on the firewall. Now I just have to see if the smaller one is there. I noticed the little tube off the back of the EGR solenoid connected to nothing, just hanging. ALso to note I blocked off the EGR valve at the upper plenum a year ago before I started driving the car and never had a code until now. Why did I do that? (EGR tube was crap and busted under there) What do I do now, I use this as my daily driver so that my girlfriend can use the Grand Prix and take her daughter to school (the reliable one)
87SEV6Reborn05 about your engine wanting to stall, i have some ideas, but start a new thread please so this one can stay on topic.
about your code 32. after 10-20 minutes on the highway at cruise is the normal time for it to set the code. take your pick, you either have a vacuum leak or a bad solenoid.
i just have the wires jumped on my car right now, because of a bad solenoid and i'm too cheap to get a new one.
bump. i want to add some info. instead of jumping the wires on the vacuum switch. it would be easier to run the supply vacuum hose from the trottle body to the vacuum sensor.
this way there wouldn't be any cutting of wires.
anyone want to take pics of before and after to post?
I've been running my V6 with non-functional EGR solenoid for a little over a year. I just bent a piece of paperclip into a U shape and stuck it into the electrical connector.
You may need an adapter to plug the throttle body line directly into the vacuum sensor. If I remember correctly, they're different sizes. But I agree it's a more elegant solution than the wiring short.
well see that last 3 tanks of gas (which is only in a 2 week time period) ive noticed that the mpg was getting worse and worse, infact i just told my fiance that i know somethings wrong because the mpg was just soo bad..but it runs like a top..anyway right after i told her that and she was like what ever your crazy...the engine light poped on like right after she said it lol., by the way i have a pinging issue and a slight high idle..by about 200 rpm..that just started about 2 -3 weeks ago also...the pinging was there from the end of the 2.8's life and is now in my new 3400 conversion...so it may not be conected but may be??
Originally posted by someone that emailed me Buddy ......... i had the ECM temp sensor changed out last week on my 85 GT w/30K based upon my reading of the Code 32 thread. thumbs down ......... back to square one ..... still throwing the code ....... check engine light has come on several times after warmed up and shifting into final drive. any ideas where to proceed? .......... i don't do any of my own work on fieros ........ thanks
Hello,
I’m somewhat confused. If you are taking your fiero to a shop for repair work, they should have been able to diagnose what is causing the code to come up. If nothing else, print out the thread and take it with you.
But if you walked in and said, “replace my ECM temp sensor.” Then they did what you asked. I’m not surprised the temp sensor didn’t help. I’ve only seen 2 cases where the temp sensor was the cause.
I would say 75% of the time it’s a bad solenoid. Which sucks cause they are very expensive. 24% is a vacuum leak 1% is a temp sensor.
I don’t remember if you have posted any other symptoms about your car. As long as you do not have a high idle condition, a “getto” way of tricking the ECM in to thinking everything is working correctly is to jump the 2 wires in the 4 pin pigtail that plug in to the sensor.
the two pins you need to jump are in red
[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 09-15-2007).]
so i did all the test and it works fine so where is this temp sensor you all are talking about located its a 85 gt 2.8
(Pic stolen from Hudini) the one labeled ECM temp sensor
but do me a favor, drive your car with the two pins on the EGR solenoid plug jumped for a little bit. it's very rare for the temp sensor to be the problem and i dont want you to throw money away.
Code 32 means that the EGR diagnostic switch was not detected closed under the following conditions: Coolant temperature greater then specified amount. EGR duty cycle commanded by the ECM is greater then 50% Manifold pressure less then 25kPa. ( 7" vacuum.
All conditions above must be met for about 8 seconds.
Hmm, this means in the morning I have no code32 and later on the way back when its warmer it triggers the code. At least this is what happened two times now. I replaced the solenoid, the egr-tube and the vac.lines. probably theres a leak in the egr-base gasket.
The port in the throttle body may be plugged, that would keep the switch from seeing vacuum even though you replaced the lines. The only way some problem with the EGR valve itself could trigger this code is if the diaphragm is punctured and prevents vacuum from building in the line from it to the solenoid. A simple and fast test is to disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve, use your finger to push up under the valve to raise the diaphragm, plug the vacuum nipple on the valve with a finger, then let go of the diaphragm. It should stay up for as long as you block the port. If it comes down then the valve assembly has a bad diaphragm and needs to be replaced. Remember, the only sensor the ECM has on the entire EGR system is that vacuum detecting switch that looks at the vacuum in the plastic line that runs from the solenoid to the EGR valve.
JazzMan
[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 10-15-2007).]
Just a quick question. I have read through this awesome post and forgive me if I have missed my answer somewhere. I have broken the studs on my egr manifold to egr tube connection. I will be updating to a 7730 ecm at some point and I will wipe egr off it's chip. Question is if I block off the exhaust and the intake egr and then jump the vaccuum connector (as posted) will this trick my current stock ecm into not adjusting timing and fuel for egr operations as well as keeping me code 32 free?
I’m somewhat confused. If you are taking your fiero to a shop for repair work, they should have been able to diagnose what is causing the code to come up. If nothing else, print out the thread and take it with you.
But if you walked in and said, “replace my ECM temp sensor.” Then they did what you asked. I’m not surprised the temp sensor didn’t help. I’ve only seen 2 cases where the temp sensor was the cause.
I would say 75% of the time it’s a bad solenoid. Which sucks cause they are very expensive. 24% is a vacuum leak 1% is a temp sensor.
I don’t remember if you have posted any other symptoms about your car. As long as you do not have a high idle condition, a “getto” way of tricking the ECM in to thinking everything is working correctly is to jump the 2 wires in the 4 pin pigtail that plug in to the sensor.
the two pins you need to jump are in red
Well a bump for a great post anyhow. I believe this answers my question. Gee I'm getting denser the older I get. So I will just block intake and exhaust egr and jump my connector. If anyone sees something different I would be thankful for a heads up.
Originally posted by Bubbajuju: Question is if I block off the exhaust and the intake egr and then jump the vaccuum connector (as posted) will this trick my current stock ecm into not adjusting timing and fuel for egr operations as well as keeping me code 32 free?
no. you will be code 32 free, but the stock ecm will "think" it's working correctly and will adjust timing and fuel mix
but i have driven my 85 V6 with a non functioning system for a few years with no problems. if it was going to kill my engine, i would have thought that it would have done it by now
[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 10-17-2007).]
well the egr is used to change the chemicals emmited in your exhaust, mainly nox emissions. there really shouldnt be extra fuel, timing or air as a result of proper egr function.
blocking the egr to manifold outlet on the intake manifold will allow you to rid the troublesome egr tube. bocking the base, or mounting surfaces of the egr (with a beer can gasket, as ive always used) will prevent exhaust flow from escaping the egr outlet, and prevent exhaust gasses from even entering the egr.
you can leave the vacuum lines and all electrical conectors where they are i belive. all the egr and ecm are looking for is that there is vacuum at the solenoid and the solenoid is functioning. it wont know if there is actually an egr allowing gas back into the intake
Originally posted by merlot566jka: well the egr is used to change the chemicals emmited in your exhaust, mainly nox emissions. there really shouldnt be extra fuel, timing or air as a result of proper egr function.
he's planning on blocking off the egr tube and tricking the ECM. if the computer thinks the egr system is working correctly, it will adjust the timing and fuel curve.
Thanks you guys! I need to put a computer in the garage so I don't have to run back and forth! I'm going to do both. First I will just cap off the egr exhaust and intake, then if I get a code 32 I will jump my connector.
Buddycraigg when you jump the connector do you still need to keep the other two contacts plugged into the solenoid?
[This message has been edited by Bubbajuju (edited 10-17-2007).]
Originally posted by Bubbajuju: I'm going to do both. First I will just cap off the egr exhaust and intake, then if I get a code 32 I will jump my connector.
as long as you plug the vacuum line that went to the egr VALVE and everything else worked ok you wont have to jump the pins on the connector.
quote
Originally posted by Bubbajuju: Buddycraigg when you jump the connector do you still need to keep the other two contacts plugged into the solenoid?
