well the egr is used to change the chemicals emmited in your exhaust, mainly nox emissions. there really shouldnt be extra fuel, timing or air as a result of proper egr function.
Actually, what the EGR system does is effectively reduce the maximum temperature reached during combustion by diluting the air (which contains oxygen) with a small amount of exhaust gas (which does not contain oxygen), effectively reducing the amount of fuel needed to be added to match the amount of oxygen actually entering the cylinder.The smaller amount of O2 and fuel has to heat a larger amount of inert gas (mostly nitrogen) so the ultimate temperature peak is reduced. Since the ECM doesn't have an intake O2 sensor it has to assume that the amount of spent exhaust reduces the O2 by a certain amount and then reduces the fuel delivered, effectively leaning out the mixture if the intake air actually has no exhaust in it and therefor contains a full amount of O2. Fortunately the ECM does have an exhaust O2 sensor and will see the excess O2 coming out of the cylinder because there wasn't enough fuel to combine with it all. The downside of all this is that for some people there will be a decrease in driveability because the adjustments to fuel caused by the O2 sensor readings aren't as smooth as what's pre-programmed into the ECM at the factory.
The best way to disable the EGR function is by programming the chip to set the EGR activation temperature to 300° so that the ECM never assumes that the EGR is present, then remove the actual EGR system and block off the various ports and such.
Thanks JazzMan. I had recently replaced an egr valve that had gone bad (diaphram leak) about a month ago. At first I thought the new valve felt like it lowered my driveability but after what I think was the computer relearning some parameters it became more peppy than with its old bad egr valve. I blocked off everything last night and drove around for a while and I think I want to put the egr back on. It just doesn't seem as smooth. I think I will run egr until I am able to set egr function to come on at unattainable temps in my chip. Thanks.
[This message has been edited by Bubbajuju (edited 10-18-2007).]
I would like to rewind my EGR solenoid coil. I took the coil apart and found the magnetic wire corroded and broken in many places. It looks like I need about 290 feet of 35 AWG copper single conductor, single coating magnet wire. I estimated the 300 feet by measuring all the broken pieces as I unwound the coil. 35 AWG copper magnet wire has a resistance of .331 ohms/foot x 290 feet = 95.99 ohms for the coil. Has any one done this and can confirm the magnet wire size and length? Provide further wire specifications? I think this would be a simple repair.
I would like to rewind my EGR solenoid coil. I took the coil apart and found the magnetic wire corroded and broken in many places. It looks like I need about 290 feet of 35 AWG copper single conductor, single coating magnet wire. I estimated the 300 feet by measuring all the broken pieces as I unwound the coil. 35 AWG copper magnet wire has a resistance of .331 ohms/foot x 290 feet = 95.99 ohms for the coil. Has any one done this and can confirm the magnet wire size and length? Provide further wire specifications? I think this would be a simple repair.
I cant confirm the wire size, or length, however my wife used to wind motors for a living and I will ask her the next time I get her on the phone. maybe just maybe she will remember; ) Great thread Buddy Craigg. Brad
Once again Buddy Craigg goes above and beyond! You rock man, Great info!!
I have a question...
-My car came with the 160* t-stat and cool fan switch -I read all about the 160* t-stat being bad for your car -So a PFF member was gracious enough to drop off a stock t-stat (195*) with some other stuff i bought from him. -I put in the 195* t-stat and within a week i had a check engine light on. -it was code 32 -i looked up this thread and saw that some people had changed the temp sening unit because if the comp thinks the temp is too high it will give you code 32. -So, I put the 160* t-stat back in to see if with the engine running cooler, the code would dissapear. -It did.
On a side note, my car now drinks gas like it has a 455 in it. So i really need to get that 160* t-stat outta there.
I guess my question is...what the heck is going on? With the engine running cooler, that solves my code 32 problem...but i cant (and shouldnt) have the 160* t-stat in there... How come I cant use the stock t-stat? Would it help if I took out the "cool fan switch" or replaced the sending unit? (i have both lying around here somewhere)
Originally posted by Dougie Murder: How come I cant use the stock t-stat?
my first guess is that the ECM never goes into closed loop because the engine doesn't get hot enough with the 160 thermostat the ECM doesn't try to control the EGR until it's in closed loop and thus never sees a malfunction.
I was wondering if I touched the end 2 connections ( to bypass the EGR selnoid )and now my car runs like it has no power and the tach jumps, any clue what I burnt out? smooth when cruising but no power to get thier and jumpy tach, Any suggestions?? Dave
------------------ D A V E ' S 1984 FIERO SE T - TOPS AND 1986 1/2 FASTBACK GT
Well I figure out it poped the injector bank when I shorted it out by accident, so what I did was just splice the vacum sensor wire and it works great!! pluged it back in and it looks factory, car runs EXCELLENT and NO check engine light, I have a new/used EGR selinoid coming so I figured I would try it, works great!! Just my 2 cents. Dave
------------------ D A V E ' S 1984 FIERO SE T - TOPS AND 1986 1/2 FASTBACK GT
Originally posted by DAVES85GT: I was wondering if I touched the end 2 connections ( to bypass the EGR selnoid )and now my car runs like it has no power and the tach jumps, any clue what I burnt out? smooth when cruising but no power to get thier and jumpy tach, Any suggestions?? Dave
Thank you again for posting this thread. It is very useful. I guess I have my work cut out for me when there is daylight.
What I know so far: Cracked EGR tube (tested with those smoke machines) Code 32 High idle: 2500rpm after reconnecting the battery. Drops to 1100rpm after driving the car for 20 mins + at freeway speeds.
Check engine light comes on from time to time at freeway cruising, doesn't stay on anymore. (used to when the old cracked egr tube was clogged at the manifold side. New cracked egr tube, the light is intermittent)
Did anyone ever try rewinding one of these? I'm thinking about giving it a try, but I don't know what I'm doing, and I don't I have any fancy coil winding equipment. It looks like I'm shooting for about 99 OHMs?
I just used this thread to rebuild/replace my egr solenoid. I bought two solenoids (of unknown operational state) on ebay for the grand sum of $10. I took them apart and tested the coils, both were in good condition and gave 93 to 94 ohms resistance. The vacuum switch on one was better than the other so I built one good one from the two parts, replaced the short vac line and connectors and installed it. So far so good and no code 32 when cruising.
I'm getting code 32 usually once the car is warm, and almost always once I hit a hill. I replaced my solenoid today with a new one from the fiero store, yet got my little friendly light on the way home. Now I'm guessing the vacuum lines are next to be replaced, but the price for the metal ones from TFS is a little steep for me currently. Has anyone replaced them with other tubes? Since they're under vacuum I'm thinking spongy tube wont work... Any suggestions, or do I go start mowing some lawns?
i have been driving an 85 GT for about a month now with the solenoid unplugged and a "jumper" wire completing the circuit for the vacuum sensor all the time.
i have not had a code 32.
if i remove the wire i get a code after about 2 minutes on the highway.
buddy craig i need ure guidence ive been getting check engine light on highway i got just a code 44 now will jumping that like u did work on my 2m4 and how it done on the 4 cyl. please help thanx
Code 44 is a lean exhaust code. The general discription is this:
"Code 44 - Lean Exhaust Check the ECM wiring connections, particularly terminals 15 and 8. Check for vacuum leakage at the TBI base gasket, vacuum hoses or the intake manifold gasket. Replace the oxygen sensor."
You can do a search for more info, but this thread is for the code 32 EGR Solenoid only. If you still can't find the answer you need, drop a note in a new thread.
Buddy's wiring fix won't eliminate a code 44, only a code 32 because no matter what state the EGR is in, the computer thinks it's correct. The previous poster gives you a direction to go to fix a code 44.
Can anyone tell me the minimun amount of vacuum it takes to operate the EGR valve properly. The reason I'm asking is I had a small vacuum leak in the port vacuum line and it has been failing the emissions test. Everything else checks out good. No code 32, car runs great just high on NOx. I know that the EGR valve is "metered" not like other EGR valves that hold a vacuum. This is why I'm wondering the min. vacuum. Thanks for any help.
bump. i want to add some info. instead of jumping the wires on the vacuum switch. it would be easier to run the supply vacuum hose from the trottle body to the vacuum sensor.
this way there wouldn't be any cutting of wires.
anyone want to take pics of before and after to post?
Buddycraigg did you ever post the pics of the bypass you talked about here? If you have not I personally would like to see them as I seem to be having that problem now. Thank you in advance.
[This message has been edited by kkavmann69 (edited 09-30-2010).]
Originally posted by ItsD: Can anyone tell me the minimun amount of vacuum it takes to operate the EGR valve properly. The reason I'm asking is I had a small vacuum leak in the port vacuum line and it has been failing the emissions test. Everything else checks out good. No code 32, car runs great just high on NOx. I know that the EGR valve is "metered" not like other EGR valves that hold a vacuum. This is why I'm wondering the min. vacuum. Thanks for any help.
I had a problem similar to this one once. I had no code 32, but I was failing emissions with high NOx. Turned out to be a plugged vacuum line from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve. The solenoid was sending a good vacuum signal, and reading a good vacuum signal, but no vacuum was getting to the valve. I replaced the vacuum lines with generic ones from a discount auto parts store. They weren't preformed like the OEM lines, but they were the same size, cheap, and they worked fine.
quote
Originally posted by Raydar: Also... Check for vacuum leaks. I replaced a solenoid once, because all the lines looked good, but weren't. That was an expensive and frustrating mistake. Pay particular attention to the rubber ends, where they connect to the various devices, and where the hard tubing plugs in.
I sort of did this. When I had the problem above, I bought a new solenoid and valve, then I found the vacuum problem. I hung on to the parts. Since I see that they're going for $180 or so now, I'm glad I did.
The code 32 states you have a bad EGR CONTROL valve.
The EGR CONTROL valve is the one BuddyCraigg is talking about. It does not have any idea if your EGR valve is working. It does not have any idea if your EGR to Intake Manifold tube is cracked or not.
So yep, take the hose off of your EGR valve and stuff a golf tee in there and the ECM will not give a code 32. You WILL fail emission tests.
Since I've been getting a code 32, I came to this thread to read up on diagnosing and repairing the solenoid. I need to mention something about disassembling the solenoid that I've not seen mentioned elsewhere. Before pulling the coil out of the sheetmetal "can" part of the assembly, pull this "can" out of the plastic housing. It may be in there quite tight, but you MUST do this, or else you will wind up breaking the wires on the coil when you try to pull the coil out... as I did.
I guess I'll get to use that new solenoid I've been saving.
Yeah I know this is an old topic but I picked up the dreaded code 32 in the last few weeks. I read this thread through more times I can count.
I am running a 180* thermostat due to the heat here in AZ for the last 3 years. I have never pulled a code 32 until this summer. I did manage to find some bad vacuum line connections and repaired those. I still got a code 32 after reset of the computer. Rechecked the vacuum lines no leaks but i did find that @ the egr valve the solenoid was only allowing a max of 5" of vacuum to it. When I checked vacuum on the line from the manifold @ the solenoid I got over 10".
so i have a couple of questions
buddycraigg, you said that 93 ohms was the reading for a good solenoid. So mine which is reading 550 ohms, is it a weak solenoid?
Does the the egr solenoid regulate the vacuum to the egr valve to 5" all the time??.
On a side note i do have a exhaust leak which does cause a code 44 on an occasion which i do plan on repairing when i replace my seized a/c compressor.
Bump for an awesome thread! I've got the 32 blues myself currently and will be using this guide to help resolve the problem. I'll post my findings later...
Yeah I know this is an old topic but I picked up the dreaded code 32 in the last few weeks. I read this thread through more times I can count.
I am running a 180* thermostat due to the heat here in AZ for the last 3 years. I have never pulled a code 32 until this summer. I did manage to find some bad vacuum line connections and repaired those. I still got a code 32 after reset of the computer. Rechecked the vacuum lines no leaks but i did find that @ the egr valve the solenoid was only allowing a max of 5" of vacuum to it. When I checked vacuum on the line from the manifold @ the solenoid I got over 10".
so i have a couple of questions
buddycraigg, you said that 93 ohms was the reading for a good solenoid. So mine which is reading 550 ohms, is it a weak solenoid?
Does the the egr solenoid regulate the vacuum to the egr valve to 5" all the time??.
On a side note i do have a exhaust leak which does cause a code 44 on an occasion which i do plan on repairing when i replace my seized a/c compressor.
welcome any comment or advice.
Thanks
Tankrat72, You should PM me questions directly, I didn't see your question until just now. with 550 ohms, I bet there is a problem with the windings on your solenoid.
I know this thread is old, but did anybody ever attempt to rewind one of these coils? Winding direction? Wire gauge? Thanks!
------------------ ~Stan http://www.facebook.com/big.life.band ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "No, it's not an MR2!!!"
This is a great thread, so I thought I would bump, while I asked a question. After disassembling my EGR solenoid, it looked much better than anticipated. I cleaned it up with rubbing alcohol before I posted the picture below. However, there is no continuity between the two ends of the coil wire. The inner end of the winding is still soldered to the connector and seems firm in the coil when I give it a tug. The outer winding broke off the connector when I was taking it apart. I've unwound about 6 feet of wire and don't see anything wrong.
I can't figure out how the wire can break somewhere in the middle of the coil. Anyone else had this happen, or can you explain it to me? Either way I'm going to have to get another solenoid, but I'm really curious after taking it all apart.
Originally posted by CocoFiero: I can't figure out how the wire can break somewhere in the middle of the coil. Anyone else had this happen, or can you explain it to me? Either way I'm going to have to get another solenoid, but I'm really curious after taking it all apart.
Yep. Mine is the same way. I have continuity between the 4 pin connector on the outside, and the end of the magnet wire on either side, but not to each end of the wire. So I know I have a good connection to the coil wire on each end, but it's broken in the middle somewhere. I clipped back about 10 turns myself, and attemped to reattach it, but no luck...the break is buried somewhere in there.
I'm going to make a run to the junkyard this afternoon to see if I can come up with anything there, but do plan on attempting to rewind this one in the future just to see if I can do it.
I had the dreaded Code 32 occur today after driving a recently acquired '88 Formula for the last couple of weeks. Fortunately, it didn't take too long to find where the problem originated. It was exactly where Buddy pointed out in the following image. And yes, the hose was rotted badly.
quote
Originally posted by buddycraigg:
There is a short hose that connects the side port and the line going to the vacuum sensor. This hose isn't made of normal vacuum line and rots out badly.
Funny though, my Formula didn't have an American coin wedged in by the EGR solenoid. (...even though the car was brought up from the States.)
The Haynes manual suggested checking the torque on the torx bolts that hold the throttle body to the plenum. Mine were both loose so I tightened them to the recommended 180 inch-pounds. That solved the Code 32...for two days. Fooled me. That made me think that the problem was in the throttle body and I had just nudged it. I decided to change throttle bodies. I cleaned up my spare and swapped them. There is a fat vacuum hose that runs from the bottom of the throttle body to the lower intake manifold. That tube is held in the throttle body hole by the friction of an o-ring. It is very difficult if not impossible to get a good connection here if you take the plenum/throttle body off the middle intake. I suspect that I had a weak connection here. I recommend separating the throttle body from the plenum any time the plenum has to be removed.
When putting it back together, connect the fat throttle body vacuum hose to the lower intake. Put the plenum on and bolt it down. Attach the fat vacuum tube to the throttle body. Attach the cruise control cable. Slide the gasket into place and replace the torx bolts but leave them loose. Re-attach the coolant lines to the throttle body by finger tightening them. Torque the torx bolts. Tighten the coolant line fittings with a wrench. Attach the throttle and transmission cables. Attach the two small vacuum lines under the throttle body.
Changing the throttle body fixed the Code 32 again...for a few hours. Then it was back again the next time I drove it. That's when I decided to do the vacuum and resistanace tests on my solenoids. One tested good. One tested bad. The good one had a questionable hose in place of the short spongy line. I removed that, attached two tiny diameter rubber vacuum hose elbows that were tighter and I used a short piece of plastic vacuum line between them. After a 30 mile test drive, it finally appears that the Code 32 has been beaten into submission...we'll see.
Now my Code 32 is intermittant. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all. When it does, it is on til I shut off the engine. I suppose intermittant is better than constant and it tells me that I have done some work that made a difference. Here is a list of possible sources of vacuum leakes posted by Fierobsessed in another thread:
In that thread, they were trying to find the cause of a high idle problem. I wonder if any of those vacuum sources could affect a Code 32 issue? I suppose they wouldn't affect it DIRECTLY but if they cut down the total vacuum available, they could theoretically rob vacuum pressure from the EGR solenoid sensor. Thoughts?
Also, if those are potential contributors, what about oil filler caps and the rubber gaskets that hold the PCV valve? What about crankshaft main seals? I have a terrible leak at my rear seal. Could that be the final piece of my Code 32 puzzle? I have loose exhaust manifolds, too. Could they be a part of my problem?
Jonathan
[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 07-05-2014).]
I put on EGR Solenoid #3 the other day. I pushed VERY hard on the double vacuum connector that is on one end of it. I have driven several days and have burned half a tank of gas and so far, Code 32 is not back. Swapping the solenoid is the only change I made and my mileage is up by 3 MPG. I have a fuel issue now also so it is difficult to tell how much an otherwise well tuned and running engine would benefit from a working EGR system.
While it is true, as has been stated earlier in the thread, the EGR system does not seem to affect DRIVEABILITY. However, it does seem to affect the gas mileage. It would be nice if someone were willing to run a tank of gas with the EGR wiring harness unplugged and jumped to see what the mileage difference is on a no-code car. I still have Code 44 to work out.
The EGR solenoid Code 32 has come back to visit a few times. It has not been consistant in any way. It always happened during a long drive but the next time I would start it up, the light would be out.
I decided that it might be caused by a slight vacuum leak in the unit. Maybe temperatures or humidity or vibration would trigger the code. I got a brilliant idea to fix any slight leaks, I PLASTI-DIPPED the solenoid! I used the spray-on kind instead of the actual dip. Got a nice thick coat all over the little jumper hoses and into all the cracks, nooks, and crannies.
I have driven about 400 miles since then and so far, the code has not come back. It is a cheap fix that is worth a try!
