quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: The EGR solenoid Code 32 has come back to visit a few times. It has not been consistant in any way. It always happened during a long drive but the next time I would start it up, the light would be out. I decided that it might be caused by a slight vacuum leak in the unit. Maybe temperatures or humidity or vibration would trigger the code. I got a brilliant idea to fix any slight leaks, I PLASTI-DIPPED the solenoid! I used the spray-on kind instead of the actual dip. Got a nice thick coat all over the little jumper hoses and into all the cracks, nooks, and crannies. I have driven about 400 miles since then and so far, the code has not come back. It is a cheap fix that is worth a try!

Okay, I made my comment before I actually read this. Wow! I'm going to give it a try. And I work for Rustoleum, so I'm sure I can get my hands on a dented can of plastic dip for free!

quote Originally posted by PatrickTRoof: Okay, I made my comment before I actually read this. Wow! I'm going to give it a try. And I work for Rustoleum, so I'm sure I can get my hands on a dented can of plastic dip for free!

Yep! So far, I'm code free! Be sure to post if it helps. Always good to know if a procedure is another good solution or just a fluke.

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: Yep! So far, I'm code free! Be sure to post if it helps. Always good to know if a procedure is another good solution or just a fluke.

Will do. Tell me, did you just think of it on a whim?

quote Originally posted by PatrickTRoof: Will do. Tell me, did you just think of it on a whim?

Yep, it just came to me. To the best of my knowledge, it is a completely original thought.

Still putting on 100 miles a day. Still no codes!

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: Yep, it just came to me. To the best of my knowledge, it is a completely original thought. Still putting on 100 miles a day. Still no codes!

That's great! I'm going to try it and post my results here. But I also may need to replace my vacuum harness. It's getting pretty raggedy.

Well, I sprayed the solenoid with plasti-dip (Rust-Oleum brand Flexi-Dip, actually), and no luck. It looks good, though! I'm going to order the stainless steel vacuum harness from TFS along with some other goodies, so that should probably do the trick.

Update: The CE light comes on a lot less now. The only other thing I did was reset the timing (it had too much advance).

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: now let�s look at the real thing testing the solenoid� looking at the assembly like this The upper two connections are for the vacuum sensor and the lower two are to drive the solenoid. first I removed the short hose from the solenoid to the vacuum sensor then pried the vacuum sensor and the connection block out of the bracket. if you remove the solenoid from the bracket, be careful not to break off the fitting pointing sideways removed two screws that hold the connection block and vacuum sensor together. Now you can see what is left of a 20 year old foam filter. I used a $3.00 meter from harbor freight for the testing, so any meter can do this� Check the vacuum sensor without vacuum. It should be an open circuit, or infinite resistance. on the 3 sensors that I tested, they all showed continuity around 5� of mercury vacuum then I tested for continuity in the windings of the solenoid. ** the readings were all over the place. From very high resistance to almost no resistance. This would back up pauls statement,

I have had the code 32 at steady highway speeds. I replaced the systems rubber vac hoses and the EGR tube with a new one. I took apart the solenoid and it looks almost brand new, with no breaks or corrosion in the copper. However, I still throw the code.

I measured the resistance and I am getting 0.393 megaohms on the vacuum sensor terminals of the solenoid and 93 Kohms on the solenoid terminals. With these readings, could the solenoid be faulty?

I don't think so.
Did you replace the ECM temp sensor?
And I don't mean the temp sensor for the fan.

[This message has been edited by CC Rider (edited 03-15-2015).]

quote Originally posted by CC Rider: I don't think so. Did you replace the ECM temp sensor? And I don't mean the temp sensor for the fan.

Yes, I just replaced the ECM temp sender this afternoon and the code 32 still pops up. My EGR valve itself is original with 72K on it, but it moves up and down smoothly when removed from the car. The gaskets for it are new.

This code 32 is the only problem the car has and I hate to sell it with it still existing.

To eliminate the Code 32, how about installing a V-6 EGR Block Off Kit offered by Black Top Racing? I don't know if this unit is produced for "daily driver" cars or track use only, but it's ALOT cheaper than the $255.00 for a new EGR vacuum solenoid.
Thanks,
Rich

quote Originally posted by RPYRAZOO: To eliminate the Code 32, how about installing a V-6 EGR Block Off Kit offered by Black Top Racing? I don't know if this unit is produced for "daily driver" cars or track use only, but it's ALOT cheaper than the $255.00 for a new EGR vacuum solenoid. Thanks, Rich

BTR and other Vendors are out to make $ and doesn't give a crap selling many things illegal.
This is just one of these because they very well know elimination of Emission Devices is illegal in most US states and in other countries.
Some vendors hide behind statements like "Check legal local laws" but many don't bother.
Even local auto parts and others stores have products mark "off road use only" etc. Often in small print on the back of packages.

Depending on Emission Tests, you can expect to fail when state/country require two speed test for old cars. Two speed test is trying to see EGR function work or not by watching NOx #.

Block ERG port has nothing to do w/ DTC 32.
In a nutshell... DTC 32 is set when Vac switch is on or off when ECM think should be off or on. (the exact opposite.)
The switch is feedback to see function of the solenoid valve.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-17-2016).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: BTR and other Vendors are out to make $ and doesn't give a crap selling many things illegal. This is just one of these because they very well know elimination of Emission Devices is illegal in most US states and in other countries. Some vendors hide behind statements like "Check legal laws" but many don't bother. Even local auto parts and others stores have products mark "off road use only" etc. Often in small print on the back of packages. Depending on Emission Tests, you can expect to fail when state/country require two speed test for old cars. Two speed test is trying to see EGR function work or not by watching NOx #. .

Luckily in free America the buyer dictates what makes enough money to be sold.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Luckily in free America the buyer dictates what makes enough money to be sold.

Big problem with that claim... Most buyers have no clue many parts are illegal and often unsafe. Vendors and Stores will sell any crap until sued by FTC or buyers, or recalled by NHTSA. Recall orders mostly affect the manufacturers. Stores might pull inventory but have little to no risk for selling and often just sell same crap from another manufacturer.

Example: Pilot LED bulbs sold thru Many stores have "Check local and state laws before installing this product on your vehicle" only on back at bottom partly hidden by back blister.

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

I doubt most buyers read the back or if they do have no clue what this means.
Worse... You must read and understand spec for this, available only online, to know their bulb is allot dimmer then Normal bulb. LED is just 180 Lumens (lm) max (1157 amber, red and white are same spec) but normal 1157 bulb is 402 & 38 lm
When used on old cars, LED often have color match problems w/ colored fixtures making output more dim in many cases.

Blocking off the EGR won't solve your Code 32 problem. Code 32 indicates a problem with the EGR activation system. It does not indicate a problem with the actual EGR valve.

Thanks for the info.----no egr delete kit.
Rich

So, I've been chasing this all year. Time to get it sorted.

I had a code 32, and found that if I capped two of the three openings in the solenoid and put a vacuum gauge/hand pump on the third, it was leaking air. Disassembling the solenoid, I found that the rubber O ring at the plastic end had dried out, and after attempting to seal it multiple ways, ultimately found an O ring that did the trick. After putting everything back together, I get a chuggle/surging feeling driving at constant, lower speeds (especially around 1500 RPM). This happens both below and at operating temperature. If I swap out the EGR solenoid for one I borrowed, everything runs smoothly. Capping the EGR solenoid line (and doing nothing else), also works, and no code 32 is set there, either, which suggests to me that the switch is being opened as expected by the ECM.

As a final test, I pulled the EGR valve vacuum fitting (at the EGR valve) and found that, in park, if I raise RPMs, I get vacuum at the EGR valve. Reading through this thread and the service manual, I can't determine if I should *never* have vacuum at the EGR valve in park, or only at idle.

Any ideas?

[This message has been edited by WhiteFormula (edited 10-09-2017).]

So while in the process of replacing the temp sensor, I had to remove the EGR valve control solenoid and noticed the single vacuum hose on the end pointing toward the front of the car is completely rotten. I did read all the way through and I do now see where that rubber line connects, but my question is about the size and length of that hose so I can try to replace it?

I know if I go to the parts store and ask them, they will give me that deer in a headlight look and I am soooooo tired of that look. Please, any help is much appreciated.

EDIT: I finally got the rotten hose off and it is a 7/32". BTW, it is a total pain in the a$$ getting it off the metal piece on the firewall!

[This message has been edited by SamanthaM (edited 04-02-2020).]

[EDIT] Ooops, too many threads open!

But it's an informative thread to being back to the top, even if done by accident.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-13-2024).]