Well here I go I installed the corvette 12" front brakes but am having issues with the banjo bolt hitting th front shock as described by other on this post. I tried rotating the calipers from side to side so that the bleed screw is facing up? Tried the brackets every way I can think of but am still unable to get the banjo bolt to clear the shock with the tire off. Does anyone have a picture of the caliper mounted with out the rotor in place so I can see the bracket alignment. or a view from the back. Obvious that I am just assembling it wrong but can't seem to figure this out. I even tried the caliper mount bracket on both side to no avail. Anyhow thanks in advance.
Pat 86 SE soon to be LT1 V8 if I can get through the brake upgrade.
my only concern with it freeing up under load is that cornering in a situation with under load then losing the load could cause damage to the caliper. I am sure I am just missing something.
I tired all the combos I could see. Anyhow mabe I will take a pic or two and post them so you can see what I mean.
Please do, That would help me out a lot. I am taking time next week to machine some brackets and can adjust the mounting holes if they need to move a little.
I will post some pic's of the front brackets mounted with caliper and the banjo bolt issue.
The brackets I had made at my local machine shop. He did an excellent job. Everything lines up but as I said before the bolt ie back of caliper hits the lower shock bolt.
well here are some driver side pics with the banjo bolt shown against the shock. I also include a pic of the bracket. Give me some ideas what I have done wrong with the below.
note how that bolt is touching the shock. The car is not at full turn radius.
Bracket I had made for the front following the blue print provided earlier on this post.
thanks Again.
PS Wow getting pictures on this site is a chore I have never done it before. As always everything is windows oriented, I use linux, but got it to work.
Pat
[This message has been edited by Shianne (edited 08-13-2009).]
hmm, it looks like you have it installed the same way as the other guys that have done this already... maybe someone else that has done it already can chime in and help.
One last question? Does it make a difference weather the caliper is on the right or the left. It would be nice to have the bleed screw facing down. From what I can see it does not make a lot of difference to caliper position in relation to the bracket. With the calipers mounted as marked it would place the bleed screw facing up. I have not paid attention to the late 80's earlier 90's vettes to know how there's are mounted but I assume the caliper is on the front of the front rotor not on the rear as our conversion has it.
got the rears done, got the hubs back on with new studs, just have the master cylinder and front calipers to mount then out to try it out.
The car came with 9" brakes. These are 3 inches larger than stock. Yes, there will be some issues trying to get that extra inch and a half of clearance. Put a jack under a control arm and see how much of an issue that banjo is. I really hope you're not planning on jumping your car with the wheel at full lock.
The solution to this problem is to weld the lower shock mount higher up on the control arm.
Originally posted by Jncomutt: I'm working on carrying brackets, rings, and modified control arms in my webstore. I'll update this thread If/when I get some done.
You sir...will be my hero! I can't tell you how many times I have given the drawings to people only to have them not come thru.... -Jason
Just got the first run of parts back from a new laser guy. We had some flanges cut up to see the quality of the work and to feel out the company. The place was great to deal with and the parts came out great. The 3800 exhaust flanges we drew up are MUCH better than the ones I got from ZZP.
The brake caliper adapters are coming next. I'll keep you posted.
It seems to me that this banjo problem can be fixed by designing a better adapter. The caliper simply needs to be rotated. It looks like rotating upwards would make the most sense.
Has this not occurred to anyone?
DG
------------------ You Dream it Up -- I'll Build it
It seems to me that this banjo problem can be fixed by designing a better adapter. The caliper simply needs to be rotated. It looks like rotating upwards would make the most sense.
does anyone have aapter brackets for sale. or know where to get them... everyone that was mentioned before is either not coming through or selling parts that dont work.... i want the brackets, but i dont wanna take a chance on chettah. anybody doing this swap and already has adapters wanna run to the machine shop for me and put in an order?
does anyone have aapter brackets for sale. or know where to get them... everyone that was mentioned before is either not coming through or selling parts that dont work.... i want the brackets, but i dont wanna take a chance on chettah. anybody doing this swap and already has adapters wanna run to the machine shop for me and put in an order?
I have them for sale in aluminum threaded from Bubbajoe and would sell them to get funds to put back into my project.
The car came with 9" brakes. These are 3 inches larger than stock. Yes, there will be some issues trying to get that extra inch and a half of clearance. Put a jack under a control arm and see how much of an issue that banjo is. I really hope you're not planning on jumping your car with the wheel at full lock.
The solution to this problem is to weld the lower shock mount higher up on the control arm.
I had my brackets made by a local machinist using the drawings posted earlier. Here is how I solved the shock clearance problem. Sorry if some of the pictures are a little dark
Here is where the shock normally mounts
This is where it needs to be moved back to for clearance of the banjo bolt.
The rear mounting flange has room to drill a new hole. The front flange needed this piece to be welded in place.
This is where I welded the small piece and then drilled new mounting holes.
Here is the new position with the bolt in the hole. Now there is no clearance issue at full lock even with wheel off the ground.
I had my brackets made by a local machinist using the drawings posted earlier. Here is how I solved the shock clearance problem. Sorry if some of the pictures are a little dark
Here is where the shock normally mounts
This is where it needs to be moved back to for clearance of the banjo bolt.
The rear mounting flange has room to drill a new hole. The front flange needed this piece to be welded in place.
This is where I welded the small piece and then drilled new mounting holes.
Here is the new position with the bolt in the hole. Now there is no clearance issue at full lock even with wheel off the ground.
got a set of front calipers and brackets off a 1985 vette, now I need to find rotors. but why are '88 rotors used, why not 84-87? and did anyone design a new bracket to overcome the problems of the caliper clashing with the shock mount?
*edit: the consensus on the clashing issue was that it wouldn't normally happen, right?
[This message has been edited by PerKr (edited 03-09-2011).]
made an adapter from a piece of scrap aluminium just to be able to test-fit the caliper. had to check again to see how it mounted (short memory). One thing I'm not very keen on doing is drilling out the threads in the spindle. Works fine for this mod, yes, but there might come a day when I would regret it. Does anyone have a workaround?
also, correct me if I'm wrong, but the two pairs of holes (one pair for mounting to the fiero spindle, one pair for the vette bracket) should be on two concentric circles, right?
I'm working on a re-design of the adapter enabling the use of M14 bolts for the vette bracket and M12 fine-threaded bolts for the Fiero spindle. I'm still experiencing the caliper hitting the shock, but it seems to happen relatively close to the point where the protrusion on the fiero caliper bracket would normally hit the lower control arm. With some luck, there is space for some similar sort of steering stop so I can avoid damaging the shocks and/or calipers,