just realized, I haven't seen any comment on what kinds of aluminium alloy have been used (successfully). 6061? 7075? other? aluminium isn't just aluminium after all...
I tried this design many years ago and found there was a flaw in the design of that adapter ,I just used a piece if 1/4" steel plate and mocked it up with a piece of cardboard then transferred it to the metal then used nuts and bolts and washers to space it out and that solved the problem.
That design works but not 100% practical wish I still had those pics
well I priced a guy out of Canada to laser cut the brackets and rings but he wanted $285 a set out of raw steel... alittle pricey I thought compared to some of the prices on here in the past...
I now have a set of front adapters cut from steel. Well, they cut the basic shape and centerpunched and I then drilled the holes. Very reasonable price. But I keep hearing bad things about using washers to space the adapter out as well as having oversized holes in the adapter (I have 14mm holes for the upright M12 bolts and 16mm holes for the bracket M14 bolts, while apparently I should have gone with 12mm and 14mm holes respectively).
Has anyone had problems with the adapter not being parallell with the rotor? My adapters aren't perfectly flat, but still not twisted enough to explain the difference I'm seeing. I don't recall seeing anyone mentioning having planed the front of the upright either...
If you look at WCF's brake kits, you'll see that they build comparatively elaborate brackets in order to mount to the machined side of the mounting ears.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-28-2011).]
If you look at WCF's brake kits, you'll see that they build comparatively elaborate brackets in order to mount to the machined side of the mounting ears.
you're probably right. I can't really tell the difference (don't know what to look for) :-)
mounting on the machined side would be preferrable. Not sure how I would make such a bracket with this rotor/caliper combo though. The adapter I have is 19mm thick and uses 2.5mm shims to get the bracket in the correct position. The upright mounting ears are ~13mm thick and I'd say I'd want about 15mm of material on the adapter... That's a 50mm thick piece of steel to work with :-D Would be interesting to make up a design if I could find the time for it :-)
that's pretty much what first popped into my head but I was kind of worried about the stress concentrations around the two towers. Also just crossed my mind (as I was looking at the pictures) that I could have two 30mm long cylinders turned for each caliper to get the same result (without the stress concentration issue but possibly with other issues).
I was wonderinh if anyone has the cadd drawings for the adapter brackets? I have all my parts for this swap just needing the adapters. I have a shop that can make them cheap. Thanks my email is mtkrusmark@yahoo.com
gambler: I put my assembly up on grabcad.com, you could use those models to make up your drawings
About the MC suggested here, is it the 1.125" or 1" master? I'm using the fiero MC now and the pedal is rather on the low side. Not sure how low would be considered normal (vette pistons are 54mm, isn't that the same as for the grand am? if so, I guess someone might know)?
Incorrect. From the factory, the wheels DO center on the hub pilot. Using brake upgrades with separate rotors does indeed reduce the length of the protrusion such that the wheels no longer contact it. After doing the upgrade, the wheel is then centered by the lug nuts. This is NOT the same and is NOT as good as a positive location via pilot & bore. However, this seems to be "good enough" that people don't have any problems with it.
I think it's sloppy and one of the major problems with Fiero brake upgrades. Would you trust that the lug studs locate the wheel well enough that it won't shake you into a crash at 150+ mph?
preamble I know this is an old thread
from What I gather conical lug nut seat wheels, the conical seats center the wheel the center hub fitment is more about weight so the lug studs are not carrying the vehicles weight, the hub center is.. having said that, I'd use ARP(for exp) studs over a parts store "dorman/help" . The Fiero isn't that heavy so the center hub isn't as big as an issue as it would be on a truck,
from What I gather conical lug nut seat wheels, the conical seats center the wheel the center hub fitment is more about weight so the lug studs are not carrying the vehicles weight, the hub center is.. having said that, I'd use ARP(for exp) studs over a parts store "dorman/help" . The Fiero isn't that heavy so the center hub isn't as big as an issue as it would be on a truck,
Still incorrect.
The hub pilot locates the wheel. Period. (Yes, there are lug-centric wheel/hub combinations, but the Fiero is NOT one of them, nor is any GM product to my knowledge).
The weight of the vehicle is carried by the FRICTION of the wheel to hub flange interface. This friction is enabled by the clamping force of the lug studs/nuts clamping the wheel against the flange.
I had someone come down to the shop with all the swap brackets, MC, calipers etc. Looking it all over I found a huge flaw, then saw this post so I read through it to see if it had been covered, so far no one has even noticed it.
on the MC, where it bolts to the booster, it has a huge deep hole for the pushrod to sit in, the Fiero MC only has a dimple. What I am getting at, to be correct you need a longer pushrod between the booster and the MC, otherwise instead of a metal rod pushing on the MC you have only plastic the surounds the rod doing all the pushing.
Has anyone else noticed this or addresed it in any way?
The hub pilot locates the wheel. Period. (Yes, there are lug-centric wheel/hub combinations, but the Fiero is NOT one of them, nor is any GM product to my knowledge).
The weight of the vehicle is carried by the FRICTION of the wheel to hub flange interface. This friction is enabled by the clamping force of the lug studs/nuts clamping the wheel against the flange.
This is correct. To add, conical lug nuts/bolts (while helping center the bolt pattern in the tangential direction) are designed to give more friction surface between the fasteners and wheels to resist loosening when properly torqued.
I had someone come down to the shop with all the swap brackets, MC, calipers etc. Looking it all over I found a huge flaw, then saw this post so I read through it to see if it had been covered, so far no one has even noticed it.
on the MC, where it bolts to the booster, it has a huge deep hole for the pushrod to sit in, the Fiero MC only has a dimple. What I am getting at, to be correct you need a longer pushrod between the booster and the MC, otherwise instead of a metal rod pushing on the MC you have only plastic the surounds the rod doing all the pushing.
Has anyone else noticed this or addresed it in any way?
I haven't seen both side by side, but if the fiero booster stub has more girth than the vette pushrod hole in the masters piston.. it might not matter.. I know on my 71 c-10 the master for a emanual brakes and the power have different depth holes and girth in the piston in the master.. not knowing if the vette master use was for power or manual brakes, it be good to know, with this threads age we might not get the answer without going to a parts store and looking at masters, IIRC that vette master listed if it is for power brakes originally, is the same as the 78-81 ws6 t/a's that had 4 wheel discs.. finding a local parts store with the masters on the shelf may prove to be out of the question.
[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 02-24-2015).]
OK, Here are some pics of a Vette (not sure year, but this is the one with the same size line fittings as the Fiero) and the Fiero MC.
From what we could measure the pushrod between the booster and MC needs to be 1 5/16 ths of an inch LONGER than the stock Fiero rod.
This is to put the info in here.
With this type of MC if you don't get the right rod you will only have plastic pushing on the MC instead of a metal rod. I haven't done this swap, I was only looking over a club members (good member) supplies he had gathered for this swap when I came across this.
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 02-26-2015).]
I still have a spare vette MC at my shop that I was considering installing on another car. I will check next time I'm there if it is the same as yours.
That looks more like a stock Fiero one, just a dimple. The MC with the hole is supposed to have the same size line fittings, thus why he chose that year of one. Im not the one doing the swap, I just wanted to add info to the thread.
Funny you bumped this now... I have just been reading through it, as I decided about 2 weeks ago, I am bringing the Fiero back to life and doing the brake conversion to make it happen.
Going with C4 Calipers and 12 rotors in the rear and C6 calipers and 13 inch up front
[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 08-26-2019).]
Glad to see this thread lives. I am in the process of finishing up the 4.9 install and have been reading on this upgrade. I probably jumped right by it, but is there a pic for the adaptors to mount brackets. Or does someone still sell them?
------------------ Mike T CCWorks http://www.ccworks.org Choppers and Fiero's RUUUULLLLEEEEE michael.tullock@ccworks.net
Fellas, Iām doing this upgrade. Can you purchase a caliper with the CORVETTE inscribed on it? For that matter, what about BREMBO, or BEAR or perhaps another manufacturer? Good write up...š Cordially, kevin
Sorry I still haven't updated with more in-depth details from when this first started. I'm working on another one of these brake swaps now though, and so I made a jig for the rotor drilling. I posted the link in my first page post, but here it is also.
Ok well ALL the information to do this brake swap is out on the internet somewhere. Bubbajoe has a good majority of the information on his website, but there is ALOT lacking. All of this other lacking material can be found elsewhere, but I'm going to try to compile it all in this one simple thread....
FRONT Standard Duty.. 84-87 Corvette Left -- 10181205 Right -- 10181206
REAR Left -- 10112652 Right -- 10112652 (same part fits left and right)
Rotors Front -- 88 Corvette Fronts WITHOUT heavy duty brakes Rear -- 88 Corvette Rears WITHOUT heavy duty brakes
Master Cylinder 77 to 82 Corvette
Calipers Front -- 1984-1987 Corvette
Rear -- 1988 to 1996 Corvette
Lug Studs Dorman Part # : 610-323 Advance Auto Parts # 98501 (Pik - a - Nut brand)
Banjo Bolts Front - 10x1.0mm Rear - 10x1.0mm
Mounting Bolts (8) 12M 1.75 x 30mm Hex Head Cap Screws (fronts) (8) 12M 1.75 x 20mm Hex Head Cap Screws (rear)
Brake Lines Any replacement lines have been said to work Lines used here were summit part#: "RUS 692110"
How do I buy your corvette rotor jig and do you know anyone I can get the brake adapters from for a 1984 Anthony 9192742487
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