didn't get much done today, I am trying to figure out how to mount the IC radiator.
I did figure out how to run my heatercore with the factory plastic elbow. The first one, the one in the intake, I found a bracket/clamp in a parts bin I have, and it fits perfectly.
If you add a T-fitting ( like a radiator flush kit comes with) to the heater hose( by the platic elbow) you can fill the engine with coolent easier that way
If you add a T-fitting ( like a radiator flush kit comes with) to the heater hose( by the platic elbow) you can fill the engine with coolent easier that way
I was thinking the same thing, but off the thermostat housing, I guess it would work either way.
Just so im clear on this, I need to go off of the port uneder the blowers snout. The port right above the heatercore elbow.
I did remove the boost bypass, and I did notice a line going from the boost bypass into the fuel pressure reg, do I have to worry about that?
Yes, hook that vac port under the SC snout to the FPR. Cap off or eliminate the T supplying the bypass solenoid from the FPR since you aren't using it.
I just recievd my whole exhaust, 2 3" mandrel U bends, 2 2.5" mandrel U bends, 2 2.5 straight pipes, 1 3" straight pipe, Afterburner Muffler, and 2 hooker resonated tips. It's going to be fun fitting all of that in the rear .
I also mounted my IC radiator. this was the WORST part of the swap so far, my hands are so cut up right now from rubbing up agains the radiator it isn't even funnny
I also painted my whole engine bay with truck bed liner, this stuff is nice and thick, and looks great IMO. It also has a nice texture to it.
I wish I knew what i was doing for my cooling system on my swap. I have an 88 4cyl, so I am still trying to figure out the best way to route things around there.
Originally posted by darkhorizon: I wish I knew what i was doing for my cooling system on my swap. I have an 88 4cyl, so I am still trying to figure out the best way to route things around there.
DH: Here's a pretty cool setup that you might want to consider. There is no alteration of the stock 38oo SC T-stat which will allow you to fill the car & motor away from the engine. The vette tank is also self bleeding, so there's little hassle with getting what not stuck into the system leading to overheating. You will have to drill the T-stat so that there's constant flow from the motor. I have had this setup on the SSEiGT for more than a year now with no issues.
Hope that helps.
Golden - looks super sweet man. I wish that I had thought about bed lining when I painted my engine bay...
DH: Here's a pretty cool setup that you might want to consider. There is no alteration of the stock 38oo SC T-stat which will allow you to fill the car & motor away from the engine. The vette tank is also self bleeding, so there's little hassle with getting what not stuck into the system leading to overheating. You will have to drill the T-stat so that there's constant flow from the motor. I have had this setup on the SSEiGT for more than a year now with no issues.
Hope that helps.
Golden - looks super sweet man. I wish that I had thought about bed lining when I painted my engine bay...
--Allen
A few questions on that self bleeding sysytem. What year vette is it off of? So basicly what happens it that a rad tube from the thermostat housing goes into the vette bleding system, and another tube comes out and goes to my drivers side coolant pipe? I fill the system where ever I want, and I keep filling the vette canister until all the air is gone, sounds A LOT easier than doing it the old fashioned way.
Some more work finished today, I don't have much time this week to work on it. I installed the new fuel pump, pulled the 2.8 off the cradle, installed the starter, and flywheel onto the 3800, and cut the fuel lines going to the 3800.
Here are the stock fuel lines that I cut and flared to accept rubber hose I also pulled the 2.8 off the cradle, and inststalled all new poly mounts. You can also see the fuel tank in the background, I installed my new fuel pump I also installed the 2.8 starter onto the 3800, aswell as the machined flywheel
I would have had more done, but I don't have the pressure plate bolts to install the clutch.
I mounted my IC pump tonight, and finished installing the gauges.
I mounted the IC pump in the trunk, where the alternator/coil pack fan used to be. It fits really nice in that location, and it is out of the way. There was a TON of sticky foam junk back there sealing up the ducting, it was a pain to get it out. When you pulled the faom off, it would leave strings of glue, like spider webs trailing off of it. Sorry for the blurry pic.
I used the holes the fan used to use for my IC hoses, I don't have to drill any extra holes in my trunk. I only have one of them mounted and ran, the other hose will go to the IC its self.
And here is a pic of my gauges all mounted and finished. I had trouble running the hard plastic line for the boost gauge.
I hope my pressure plate bolt arrive tommorow, so I can get started on mounting the engine on the cradle.
where did you get a hard plastic line long enough??
Actually they are two of them joined together with a larger plastic line ( fits snug over both of them) and super glue. If you go to your local hardware store, you can find the size just larger than this one, and slip it over the end, and butt the other hose right up to it. The super glue actually bonds the two hoses, and creates a air tight seal.
Please forgive the blurry pics, I think I dropped my cam one too many times. seem more and more the camera goes out of focus.
The pressure plate bolts finaly arrived today, and I was able to make so progress. here is the spec stage 3 clutch going in. Here is the engien supporting itself for the first time This is what the belt routing looks like with AC, and a lower alternator mount The car all ready for its new engine. The car had to be a lot higher to clear the supercharger, kind of unsteady lifted that high. Car being lowered onto the cradle This is how the dog bone lines up with the lower alternator mount, I will have to fab one up.
It is very weird to see that engine in the rear of my car, I can't believe it is almost finished.
[This message has been edited by Golden86 (edited 03-30-2006).]
It is very weird to see that engine in the rear of my car, I can't believe it is almost finished.
It really is weird to see it back there yesterday. I couldn't stop staring at it. I can't wait to hear it fire up. The new rims look good on the car too.
two things... 1. you don't think the "pump" hoses will get too hot in the engine compartment like that?? I would think you are shooting yourself in the foot. the idea behind the IC is to COOL. I might be wrong, but just a thought I had.
2. on the dogbone bracket, did you use the "stock gtp" DB? looks like it. anyway, you can trim an 1/8th off the back of the bracket that attaches to the block. that should move it over enough to use the Fiero DB with no problems...
two things... 1. you don't think the "pump" hoses will get too hot in the engine compartment like that?? I would think you are shooting yourself in the foot. the idea behind the IC is to COOL. I might be wrong, but just a thought I had.
2. on the dogbone bracket, did you use the "stock gtp" DB? looks like it. anyway, you can trim an 1/8th off the back of the bracket that attaches to the block. that should move it over enough to use the Fiero DB with no problems...
again, just some thoughts I have....
Looking good so far!
I have the "cool" hose going directly from the radiator up front into the IC plate, all the other lines in the engien bay are "post" IC hoses, so I really don't car how hot they get.
I figured out how to fix the dog bone, its in my next post...
I did some more work, I shimmed up the front engine mount, worked out the throttle cable, and hooked up all the hoses.
I used a 1/2 inch aluminum block to shim the front engien mount up. The engine was sitting in there kind of slanted, and making the dogbone not line up.
Here is what I did with the throttle cable. I went out to the parts store, and bought this cable clamp thing I then drilled out the stock hole to fit the cable clamp Final product Here is what I did with the coolant fill, just a simple in line tee. The coolant hose part numbers are AutoZone p/n XL-1004 for the upper/left and Advance Auto p/n E71075 for the lower. thanks Darth.
I basicly just need to do the exhaust.
[This message has been edited by Golden86 (edited 04-01-2006).]
I did some more work, I shimmed up the front engine mount, worked out the throttle cable, and hooked up all the hoses.
I used a 1/2 inch aluminum block to shim the front engien mount up. The engine was sitting in there kind of slanted, and making the dogbone not line up.
My dogbone bracket and the bracket on the trunk firewall doesnt line up either. Buy putting a spacer in you made the sc snoot slant upwards? How far off was yours before you put the spacer in? What front engine mount are you using? Ive got PurpleReigns. I havent put on my dogbone yet. On mine it appears by raising my sc nose up it will make the alignment worse. Ummm maybe not...ill have to take a closer look in the morning https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071510.html
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 04-01-2006).]
My dogbone bracket and the bracket on the trunk firewall doesnt line up either. Buy putting a spacer in you made the sc snoot slant upwards? How far off was yours before you put the spacer in? What front engine mount are you using? Ive got PurpleReigns. I havent put on my dogbone yet. On mine it appears by raising my sc nose up it will make the alignment worse. Ummm maybe not...ill have to take a closer look in the morning https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071510.html
Actually I didn't raise it for the dog bone, I did it to level out the engine, now it sits PERFECTLY level in the car. It just so happens that the dog bone lined up too. I am using a purplereign style mount, but it was made by a forum member named Tim (Fiero STS), you can see the mount in this thread, I think a few pages back.
WOO HOO! 1000th post!
[This message has been edited by Golden86 (edited 04-01-2006).]
So everything on the mount was correct except for the height ? I can make another one with a 1/2 inch more hight if you want.
It mounted perfectly, except I think the poly trans mounts lifted the trans side more than stock mounts. I couldn't ask for anything better. All I need to know is where to send the money to? I REALLY appreciate you helping me out, and making sure everything is perfect for me. Thanks again Tim.
I finished the rest of the wiring over by the c500, and mounted the coil packs. I also mounted the ECM where the stock one was.
Here is a pic of the coil pack, I did it Fast Fieros style, down below. Here is how my ECM fits, still kind of messy, I have to clean it up, but you get the idea.
After all that was done, I put the battery in, ran all the cables, and hope to jebus the car started. I primed the engine by letting it crack for a few seconds without the fuel pump relay, or the ICM plugged in. After that, I plugged them back in, I let the fuel pump prime, and a quarter second later it fired right up.
I CAN'T BELIEVE IT FRIGGIN RUNS!!!
It was REALLY loud due to having absolutly no exhaust, and had the meanest lope I have ever heard from a V6. I only ran it for a few seconds, but in that time, it idled great, and oil pressure was good too.
Here is a pic of basicly what it will look like complete, minus a few stray wires in the back due to my alarm.
Next comes the fun part, the exhaust. My uncle is comming over tommorrow to help weld up my exhaust, he has been welding for 20 years I think. Here is all the room I don't have to run the exhaust. Thats facing the trunk mind you. I have to fit 3" mandrel bends back there, I don't know how people do it.
I am so happy it runs, and didn't fry anything, not too bad for my first wiring job.
The only thing that went wrong was that my boost gauge was reading vaccume and not boost. I think I have it tapped off the wrong port. Whick port should it go to?
Im glad to hear it runs. Im at the same point you are with the exhaust except ill be doing 2 1/2" pipe. Im using a spinrec muffler. What muffler are you using?
Im glad to hear it runs. Im at the same point you are with the exhaust except ill be doing 2 1/2" pipe. Im using a spinrec muffler. What muffler are you using?
It's an Afterburner muffler. He has the name of the muffler listed and a pic of it on this same page further up.
I started mine for the first time this weekend too.... I noted the same thing, its LOUD without that exhaust eh? Let mine run for only a few seconds, I have to add the coolent. Atleast it started up and ran This was also the first time I did any wiring of this sort so it was just as exciting, lol.
I started mine for the first time this weekend too.... I noted the same thing, its LOUD without that exhaust eh? Let mine run for only a few seconds, I have to add the coolent. Atleast it started up and ran This was also the first time I did any wiring of this sort so it was just as exciting, lol.
Glad to hear you got yours running too. Well we did...it was a struggle but Im glad I did the wiring myself or atleast the labor. I had alot of help. Ask alot of questions. It started right up without a miss. The coolant fan comes on. The speed works. Good oil pressure reading and voltage.
Turns out my fan runs anytime the key is in ON but I think it has to do with WD3 being removed and not grounded. The car has an AC HVAC unit, but no other AC components. I haven't even started tracking that down, but it seems like thats a great start. Otherwise, all else is good in 3800 land..
You probably won't see any boost until you are able to drive the car and give it enough gas pedal. I would think that the boost gage could be T'd in where the MAP sensor attaches to the front of the manifold, under the SC pulley.
