Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Wow! I just noticed this. Your passenger side driveshaft has some sort of support bracket with bearing... rather than I guess what the other Fieros have, which is an absurdly long driveshaft which can probably get somewhat easily unbalanced. This is pretty cool... was this custom, or is it specific to the transmission you're using?
It's part of using the F-40 6-speed. Get a kit from Archie!
More progress... Headers and valve covers mocked up in place... Lots of work was done to clean up the wiring harness.
Need to use studs in place of some intake bolts since they don't clear the tubes...
------------------ Laughing at trolls who ask me to post 1/4 times when I built on oval track car. Also laughing at trolls who take 20 years to do a swap...
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 02-08-2024).]
You can see my nose bounce on both launches. I think I under-revved the launch... My tach has been inaccurate for years.
That was a great race against the 95 Firebird (Firehawk maybe?).
Also... loved the race with the AMG Mercedes 550S and the 98-02 Camaro SS. The Mercedes owner was being so arrogant, and kind of a douche too... and he totally got his ass handed to him.
Currently still running the '7730 A1 ... Once I get it fully stable, I will try switching to the nA1$T code since it offers more tuning options on the top end. The A1 code doesn't control timing well after 4800 and typically doesn't do much else after 6400... If that fails I may switch to a Holley ECU or some other popular system.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 03-20-2024).]
They rewired my fuel pump rather than diagnosing whatever issue they found...so now I have a fuse in the engine compartment that when removed disables my fuel pump. Cut the fuel pump hot-wire at the aldl port.. My oil pressure gauge pegs and stays there so I need to see if it should get 12v or 5v and look into that...
...but at least the engine isn't flooding anymore to the point of hydro-locking. We stuck a camera done a spark plug hole and would see the cylinders half-filled with raw fuel thanks to their crap "fixing" of my harness.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 03-20-2024).]
Try AUJP v4 https://www.v6z24.com/threa...111745/#post-1239816 This was used on the tpi camaro. The files in the thread are set up for a v6. I ran it on my 3500 before I switched to a 7165 ecm. They have the Bin,ads and xdf files to get you going.
AUJP v4 is older but still supported. The newest version is AUJP v7 that supports boost,two step launch and I think flat shift. Go to third gen.org for more info.This is the thread for AUJP v6 https://www.thirdgen.org/fo...sion-6-released.html
I'll never be boosting this motor. Once it blows up, I will probably do another 3.5 build but make it a street engine again. (Lower compression, traditional valve train)...and make it a daily driver. I have a Series 3 3800 NA sitting on a palette for 8 years that needs a rebuild and will replace my 4.9... ...and i have a series 2 3800 SC sled-o-matic that needs a rebuild that I want to convert to a 5 speed.
I really need to sell one or two of them at some point.
New plugs are installed. New Taylor wire-set should arrive today. However I found another issue. The rocket-scientists who installed my motor welded in a 2.25" exhaust just before the muffler area. So I have an exhaust restriction over my previous build as well. This will be resolved eventually...
I suppose it's comforting to know I'm making 30 more rwhp despite these issues... Air/fuel is still not ideal (too rich), current hp peak is at 5320 rpm but that's with bad ignition, rich fuel and a restricted exhaust. Also we haven't done any timing changes. I still need to measure the crank pulley to make sure the Rodney underdrive pulley is being used but my eyeball-measuring tool doesn't think so. Eventually, I'll retune it for E85 which will give me another 7% gain. If I can hit 235rwhp before E85, I should be able to get to > 250 rwhp from this build...still with heavier-than-stock racing wheels on....
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 04-16-2024).]
With new plugs and wires installed I changed to heavy 56lb 13x10 wheels with 315mm width rubber. We did a baseline run, no changes since last dyno of ~207 rwhp at 5300 rpm (we cut it off after that due to ignition issues. Well, my power went down to 193.7 rwho at 6000 rpm. So just switching to wheels that were roughly 9-10 lbs heavier and I lost 13 rwhp and 11 ft*lbs... The difference may even be greater since I didn't get to rev much past 5500 before.
With some tuning, since the ignition issue was gone now with the new plugs and wires, I ended up tuning back up to 203rwhp at 6200 rpm. I'm exploring new wheel options... I've been telling people for years that my dynos were gimped because of my wheels but now I have some concrete proof. This is still with 93 octane with some octane booster. I'll try to get a pic of the dyno run soon...
So by comparing your last dyno on this tread, you roughly picked up about 93WHP and 73WTQ at 6200rpms and without a turbo!!!!!!!!!!! That is a 3900 stock killer!!
You've proved my point again. With a cam upgrade to match your custom intake (believing the cam designer knows what is best for these iron heads), your off the shelf headers, and the tuning you were able to shadow a stock 3900 on peak power is amazing!! As you can see on this video these Canadian boys were very disappointed at their hard work thinking their 3900 was a force to be reconned but only to be outpowered by a 2st gen iron headed 60* V6. The guy that looks like "Elmo" in this video built a 3900 Camaro that ran low 9's but with a massive turbo. So the moral of he story is that everyone who fails to accomplish his/her goal because of their lack of knowledge goes the easier way out, turbo. Again, head flow numbers are mean nothing.
I do miss some of that early low-end torque I used to have but the 'net' is undeniable.
I have yet to rev past 6400-6500 out of queasiness. The A/F ratio at 6100+ starts jumping around after being rock solid all the way up. Quite possibly I may be at the limits of this ECM... Or it's that restriction at the end of my exhaust steam... IDK... But the power went right up to 6300 in a straight line, not curve as I expected.
I've found some Enkei racing wheels that only weigh 15lbs...with the tire that should put me at ~45 lbs. That should put me around 220+ 'at least'.
The future is bright.
On the downside - I was gonna race yesterday. Went to finally fill it up and then at the pump, the handle kept tripping after 3 gallons. I squeeze 2 more gallons out of it but then I looked under the car. Once again I was bitten by the crappy installer bug. They had installed a larger fuel pump and new fuel lines (in a completely non-stock patter that makes no sense) and I saw a leak where fuel was dripping from the firewall area in the center of the car. The drip was coming from multiple points so I believe the insulation is soaked. AAA took 3.5 hours to tow me. :/
Here's my last dyno from 2019 after I put a notch across the bottom of the middle intake manifold for more top end...along with my 1st dyno from Friday and what we got to. The 2019 one is with my Weld 52lbs wheels. The current one(s) is with 56lb wheels. At 5250 rpm (113.9 mph) there is a 30rwhp gain. Also note, in 2019 I was running E85 so that gave me 12 more hp. I have yet to convert to E85 and I'm running heavier wheels.
Now that I look at the newer dyno, it looks like I may need less fuel starting at around 4600 rpm at that's roughly where it goes slightly richer first before jumping lean ... the computer's trying to target an AFR and is over-compensating then under-compensating back and for with a general trend towards being too rich... Probably need to do some fuel and timing smoothening with the 3D tool to improve the look of the graph from 4600 on up.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 05-13-2024).]
Twas not to be. New lighter and slightly thinner tires spun a lot at the launch. Also missed 2nd approaching the first turn and ended up in 4th ... and stayed in 4th until just before turn 3. All that said, it was still a 19 second lap which would be first place about 20 years ago.
My car was down since the last race for a couple of weeks waiting for a new fuel sending unit. Got it back just in time for the next event and made the rookie mistake of not checking my tire pressures...
First round was a bye round but still...
Some good analysis here about 3/4 the way through...
So we tried leaning it in this last run and started losing some power on the top end. :/ Ran out of time and had to leave. I think I need to just keep throwing fuel at it as Rei advised me starting at 4600 and on. I've definitely left some power on the table...but you can clearly see that lighter wheels = more power.
So basically you can go back and look at my years of old dynos and add 13-14 hp. But basically it scales with rpm... It looks like a 20 rwhp difference at 6200rpm...
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 06-28-2024).]
Look at this dyno and here are the specs. -3500/3400 hybrid -12.4:1 Compression ratio -WOT-Tech Street/Strip cam -Aluminum Heads -65MM TB
Build by WOT-Tech itself.
This is the cream of the pie right here. How come an overbore 3400 can make more power with Iron Heads than the almighty aluminum heads with a huge 65mmTB and way more compression.
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 06-28-2024).]
I'm not quite done making power yet. I believe we added a degree of timing broadly but since I'm still on 93 octane with an octane booster, it may have been too much at ~5200 rpm where it loses a bunch of power. I'll have to back off until I switch to E85...but as I said, it was almost 8pm and I hadn't had dinner and needed to go.
I also still have a 2.25" exhaust near the muffler...where it was 2.5" from the collector to that point. I think that's what may be causing the uneven pulsing once the exhaust pressure builds up and is preventing the cam from scavenging. That's *my* theory anyways... On the street, vacuum pressure behind the car as it moves forward may alleviate that somewhat.
Unfortunately, getting things fixed has been somewhat slow. Worked on my boat for a week and now I can enjoy the rest of the summer with it finally between racing events. I have a race today. I am going to work on my launch as a much lower drop-clutch RPM. I'm one of the few people still using manual transmissions. Almost everybody's switched to 2-step setups. It's still fun for me. I hate autos.
If you roughly multiply the speed by 45, you'll get the approximate rpm in the graph. My thick wires prevent a good rpm reading once they get hot.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 06-29-2024).]
I don't think I would have beaten that Audi last week. I think I picked up some more power up top. In the 2nd race... Good driver, we were sliding to the outside coming out of turn 2 and I realized my foot wasn't to the floor yet so I punched it just as we were coming out of turn 2 and just about pulled up beside him... I'll have to study the video better because I'm not sure what happened...body roll back may have made my left front fender rub the tire... I probably should have backed off and cut to the inside and then gunned it as I think I could have beat him to turn 3 or at least got to the inside track and made him uncomfortable.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 06-29-2024).]
Look at this dyno and here are the specs. -3500/3400 hybrid -12.4:1 Compression ratio -WOT-Tech Street/Strip cam -Aluminum Heads -65MM TB
Build by WOT-Tech itself.
This is the cream of the pie right here. How come an overbore 3400 can make more power with Iron Heads than the almighty aluminum heads with a huge 65mmTB and way more compression.
First post, cool thread (that's some dedication!). Figured I should give the details on this engine comparison since it was called the cream of the pie.
Its a 3400 with camaro pistons and rings, stock 3500 heads, stock 3500 lower, 3400 upper ported for the throttle body, stock exhaust manifolds, a street/strip cam with matching springs and pushrods, and a 65mm throttle body. The dyno sheet is a comparison of 56 to 65mm throttle body on this engine.
Now that im caught up, I can't wait to see how this progresses
Quick Edit. WOT-Tech didn't build the motor. It was done by Dan's 15 year old daughter as her first engine build (R&R Motorsports)
[This message has been edited by WOT-Tech (edited 07-04-2024).]
No. I am on pump gas and I drive it thru traffic to the track about 30 minutes and back and my CR is only at 11.2:1 and I don't have a dry sump or anything. I have a Fiero alternator and water pump still robbing me of power. I'm only running a 2.5" exhaust and it actually goes down to 2.25" before the muffler...and yeah - I still have a muffler.
Here's the 7000rpm dyno before we did any tuning that day...
It was running too rich - below 12:1 for this run. 7000rpm = 155mph ... still made 159rwhp at 7000... The cam is supposed to peak around 6200 so once it does that then it will be right and good.
