Axle and bearing replaced. Shaved Knuckle/spindle down 1/3" and added .4" spacer so rim doesn't rub spindle. mtownfiero who did my '7730 conversion helped bebug the code 21 code. Needed to reverse the wires on the TB sensor. Now to continue to plug more holes in the Trueleo intake to get the idle down to normal...
Just wanted to post so that you'd know that we're still watching and keeping our fingers crossed! You've certainly been through more trials and tribulations than most. You just keep plugging away.
There is a cable I found online for ODB1 that will read from the E or M port and it's up to the user to select the baud rate (160 or 8192) on the laptop.
I still have the data going to pin E so I'll just set the laptop to 8192 baud. The cable itself could care less if it's got data in M or E from what I can tell.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 09-28-2009).]
looks like the high idle problem is because of the IAC...whether it's bad or needs the wires reversed like the TPS is the next question... hopefully, Andrew can re-pin the connector easily enough to try it out we won't be able to data-log without a functional IAC... Maybe I should swap in the Fiero one...
I've replaced the IAC and strapped the coil pack down better so my loss of ignition issues have been reduced and my idle is back to normal. I got the car at a mechanic checking for vacuum leaks as I'm still getting codes 33 and 15. Once those are fixed, then I can finally do some data logging to get Darth to burn me a proper chip.
Someday we should change how the coils are mounted. I dont think the spot where they are currently is strong enough or cool enough since its right above the headers to be good for the icm. Also you could try checking to see if there are still leaks in the intake using a propane torch bottle.
249 tq 187rwhp! Aren't you pretty close to out running your 4.9 swap! Lol nice job hope the you get the codes cleared up!
------------------ Say no to socialism communism marksism maoism and say yes to Freedom! God Bless America! 1986 black gt fast back 4 spd recently rescued. 1987 gt fastback 5 speed! Hopefully swapped before end of summer.
249 tq 187rwhp! Aren't you pretty close to out running your 4.9 swap! Lol nice job hope the you get the codes cleared up!
The codes only come up when the car is warmed up... I need to data-log and send to Darth for analysis but things happen slowly in Fiero-land for me now ... very slowly :/
Nice thread! I'm planing on dining something similar in the future. Hope you get all the codes worked out.
Nolan
As it turns out... The code 33 (low vacuum) was because the Trueleo intake has pinhole leaks on pretty much every weld. It's being touched up this week and I hope to have it back on the car by Saturday. This should also correct the code 15 problem (O2 sensor - fuel rich). From there I can do some data logging again and finally get a proper chip burned from Darth.
Hey, didn't you get the intake back today, how does it look?
My luck with people I have to pay to work on my car continues. This machine shop is sitting on my intake. It needs to be sand-blasted to remove the coating and JB Weld before it can be handed off to a welder. If it's not done today, I'll grab it and find another machine shop tomorrow.
My 1st race is on the 30th. My patience is thin.
Doh! Turns out we have a sandblaster at work and they TIG weld here. If the intake is not done this afternoon, I'm bringing it to work tomorrow.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 05-05-2010).]
that would be nice! you do have terrible luck though i must admit. You get a custom intake to flow more air and it leaks, in a way i guess you got more air
that would be nice! you do have terrible luck though i must admit. You get a custom intake to flow more air and it leaks, in a way i guess you got more air
Got it sandblasted an hour ago and dropped it off to a welder. With luck, I can pick it up tomorrow and paint it. What color do you think?
Looks like most of the welds are re-done in the individual tubes. They still need to chop off the EGR port (which I had requested EGR-less from Trueleo to begin with) and seal that off completely as that's another place with leaks. Looks like they still need to touch up around the neck still. May not be done this afternoon as they have production to get out.
The supervisor said that even the flat metal areas seem to be pourous and leak under high pressure on the throttle body area of the neck... Maybe I can splatter JB Weld to cover that then paint... They are using higher pressure air than I would see driving so it may be ok.
Someday we should change how the coils are mounted. I dont think the spot where they are currently is strong enough or cool enough since its right above the headers to be good for the icm. Also you could try checking to see if there are still leaks in the intake using a propane torch bottle.
When we ship opur headers we provide standoffs that let the customer turn the coild 180 degs and raise up both of which move it away from the Y pipe and EGR. No biggie to do, just lenghten a few wires.
Lou actually has the DIS coils now, since the 7730 swap. So the way i last remember it being mounted was by i think 2 of the 4 possible bolts which puts some strain on the bracket but also traps heat right under them too.
I really think some of the cutting-out had to do with the coil-pack bouncing around. I added some more wire-ties over a month ago and that was reduced. Most of my drivability problems seem to be with the codes 33 and 15 due to the misses on the welds of the intake. I'd step on the gas and the car would bog down. Sometimes I'd go tap the gas as I shift into first from a stop light and it would just stall. I'd have to floor it while the starter cranked to start running again.
I ended up JB Welding the thing to hell and back yesterday before painting it blood red and handing it to my mechanic at 5pm. With luck, it will be on the car today. I got sick of waiting for the guys at work to get around to it. They all said it was a nightmare to fix. In the end JB Weld was the easiest solution. I just hope I got it all, I got sick and tired of waiting for them. Hopefully the high-temp engine paint filled in anything I might have missed...
Wow, what bad luck, I'd think these would be pressure tested. I pressure tested my entire intake side when I put the turbo on and found a bunch of small little leaks. Most of mine were due to crappy t-bolt clamps, but still a PITA nonetheless. Hopefully all works out well for ya.
Wow, what bad luck, I'd think these would be pressure tested. I pressure tested my entire intake side when I put the turbo on and found a bunch of small little leaks. Most of mine were due to crappy t-bolt clamps, but still a PITA nonetheless. Hopefully all works out well for ya.
I pressure test every intake and header and thus don't understand why the leaks? Perhaps we should apply pressure and vacuum for the test? Anyway, I will gladly fix them if returned to us. We had one intake come back recently becaused the guy's machanic ruined the powder coating with some kind of slovant. I stripped it and redid it, no charge. A few people like to grind welds down - I know Lou wasen't one- and create leaks.
Lou's intake from the start i could tell was going to have leaks. I dont know what happened with the welding or what ever but i noticed it pretty quickly before i had even put it on the car?
Lou's intake from the start i could tell was going to have leaks. I dont know what happened with the welding or what ever but i noticed it pretty quickly before i had even put it on the car?
Was it a new one from us. if so he should have given us a call. We back what we sell.
We did sell some old prototypes a few years back that were not powder coated AS-IS. Is it one those brought from a third party?
no he had this one custom made by you guys, it used an lt1 (?) twin butterfly throttle body. At the time i think he only had a couple weeks or so until the races he uses the car in so he didnt want to send it back and leave the car undriveable since it was already apart waiting for the swap.
The sandblasting may have exposed more leaks but there were some obvious ones even with the base coating you had on there. I JB Welded it and after several drives last night after I picked it up from the mechanic, I no longer have code 33 coming up. Now only code 15 comes up, which is O2 rich fuel.
What's done is done. Time to tune it.
Andrew, hopefully I can meet up with you on Saturday maybe ~1pm and do a quick data log run. You'll find it drives much better now. I'd love to get some Bosch System 3 injectors. That's probably my last problem...
Once the car warms up it seems to drive almost as badly as before. I'm thinking when it's cold it's getting plenty of air...and when hot, not enough. Time to develop a cold air box instead of the contraption I have now with the air filter suspended over the cross-over pipe... Any ideas, Andrew? Let's remove the stock air filter canister on Saturday. That will give us more room to work with.
Still no code 33 so I take some comfort (and pride in my JB Weld skills) in that. As it warms up I get the code 15.
When I modified my intake and added a bigger throttle body I had to adjust the ASYNC FACTOR vs COOLANT under the FUEL AE heading in Tables/Functions. Mine was stalling at throttle tip in unless I pushed it veeerrrryyyy slow. This was using $8F and the 1227730 with DIS and a 56mm throttle body.
Check the impedence of your MAT sensor. I had one go bad once that drove us crazy when we were burning some new chips for a special aplication. We thought it was our chips. The MAT kept giving the ICU bad readings; like telling it it was 110+ deg when it was only 30 or below deg and so forth and thus on our wideband I saw the A/F ratio was all over the place; one min it was too lean then too rich etc. I replaced it and all was fine. BTW: sand blasting it, I knew I checked that intake it held pressure good.
Code 33(oops code 15) came back on a longer drive.
It turns out the engine builder used pipe-dope on my coolant temp sensor which needs to ground out to the block. Andrew (mtownfiero) saw the potential issue right away. I had brought a brand new sensor with me anyway and he put silicon on it and now NO MORE ENGINE CODES!!!!
I was having some issues with the old Fiero computer with this sensor but it seems the '7730 relies on it much more. Problem solved.
Once we fixed that, we did some data-logging and sent a new file to DarthFiero. Right now when I floor the pedal, I have some power ~2000, it dips ~3300 and comes back up ~4600 so some tuning is definitely needed. That was using the seat-o-da-pants meter.
Yes, the car drives almost like 98% normal now. When I go to neutral after accelerating, the rpm do dip to 400rpm and the belt squeals before going back to idling between 675 and 700rpm though. Any thoughts there?
Edited for correct code.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 05-17-2010).]
Try putting a vacuum gauge on it then dump the throttle, that big TB may too big for sudden full throttle and make it bog just like using too big a carb will.
Try putting a vacuum gauge on it then dump the throttle, that big TB may too big for sudden full throttle and make it bog just like using too big a carb will.
The only problem I seem to have is a miss as I accelerate. More pronounced at low rpm, seems to go away at 4500+rpm when a big power surge happens. Seems like the flood gates open for power then as it seems to decline from 3000 to 4500. Bad spark plug?
With my shaky Dakota Digital install, I occassionly lose VSS and trip code 24 as well. Recall, I'm using Archie's 6-speed proto-type before he wired in the amplification circuit.
Well, it throws codes 24, 33 and 43 now after 20 minutes of driving. Pretty weird. Very dissapointed 33 came back but I suspect the timing may be causing some early ignition and back-pressure thru the valves and back up into the intake. This could be triggering the 43 as well.
I'm waiting for DarthFiero to send me a chip with modifications based on a data-log Andrew sent him.
With the code 24, that's VSS no signal. Darth's chip will put in the 60,000ppm value and we should be able to run the VSS back into the ECM instead of the Dakota SG-1 that came with the 6 speed conversion.
