Has the project going lately? I'm going to check out my trueleo intake and see if that isn't causing some of my problems. As for your intake, I ran mine out the hole where the stock intake sucked in air and attached my filter on the outside of the frame just behind the body panel. Thought that was a good spot because it got the filter completely out of the engine compartment. I'd post a picture for you, but don't know how to.
The problem is my TB is closer to the deck hinge than the stock one.
Latest updates: Got a chip from DarthFiero that attempts to control the Fiero speedo. I had to build a circuit per his instructions. I did it. It works but the speedo is reading twice as high. He says he can up the divisor in the next chip. Right now I'm experiencing detonation at low rpms in 2nd gear and up. I need to check the base timing. If that's ok, then I'll try colder plugs. The detonation is causing code 43 knock sensor. Now that my speedo is working that means I wired up the VSS correctly so I shouldn't get that code anymore.
So yes, I was able to eliminate the Dakota Digital SG-1 from the equation. Yes folks, the '7730 can accept input from the F40 and drive the Fiero speedometer with a simple circuit.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 06-23-2010).]
So a couple of weeks ago, it caught fire in the engine bay. Burned wires near MAP sensor, the sensor itself, the vaccuum tube, and part of the harness including atleast one injector wiring pair. I waiting from the word from Darthfiero to ship it to him.
Turns out the fire was coming from my valve covers out around the breathers. Too much fuel in the oil. I discovered some open wires was keeping 1 bank of injectors on. Fixed. Then turns out I had 2 bad injectos as well dumping fuel regardless.
Well, time to see if Darth can get the divisor right so that the '7730 can translate the VSS from the F40 and drive the Fiero speedo...
Originally posted by lou_dias: Turns out the fire was coming from my valve covers out around the breathers. Too much fuel in the oil. I discovered some open wires was keeping 1 bank of injectors on. Fixed. Then turns out I had 2 bad injectos as well dumping fuel regardless.
Well, time to see if Darth can get the divisor right so that the '7730 can translate the VSS from the F40 and drive the Fiero speedo...
Now all you have to do is hope that the level of fuel saturation in the oil wasn't enough to damage the bearings before it caught fire due to insuficient lubrication properties. Shouldn't be much diffrent than the 40k mile Ford Ranger I happened across after Jiffy Lube lost track of what they were doing and allowed it to leave their shop with engine flush in it a day earlier.
Originally posted by lou_dias: Duralast one is $17.99 @ Autozone.
Don't do it, I nearly quit on my 3900 swap after repeated intermittent no starts that were hard to track down until the culprit (CPS) failed completely. Don't gamble on parts that can take you down for the count. You can but I wouldn't.
Right now I'm using the factory part which is intermittent. How is this a step down? For $18, it's worth a try. The Autozone p/n is SU137.
Whatever floats your boat is all that matters. I'm opposed to autozone modules particularly and other ignition parts from personal experience only, not hearsay. NAPA, Carquest or GM are my options and if that's not in my budget an ebay NOS or low mileage used OE. That's the kind of lesson I learned from Autozone ignition parts.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 01-11-2011).]
I've been having coughing issues/misfires with the engine lately. Lowered the gap on the plugs to .055 and replaced the wires ... ... ... ... ... now it feels faster than my 97 vette!!!
I seem to be getting carbon build-up on the plug on Cyl #5. Ran great for 2 day before the build up started causing misses... I guess I need a compression test...
Darth's got the F40+'7730 working with the speedo. The value he plugged in has it reading like it's on an 85mph speedo. When I'm going 70 it reads 105. We'll try a new value soon enough.
Originally posted by lou_dias: Well, the DIS using a '7730 swap dictates a .060 gap. I am running higher compression due to the 3.4DOHC pistions so it needed a smaller gap.
I doubt DIS ignition dictates what the spark plug gap should be more than the engine combination itself. Since the 3.4L is the only DIS iron head 60 degree motor GM produced you should gap the plugs according to its plug gap specs. .060 on an aluminum head motor is fine because it doesn't take as much ignition timing to light off the combustion mix due to their fast burn design and they were gapped to that spec from the factory. On the other hand, iron heads call for much more timing and you probably complicated that process with increased compression and increased spark plug gap possibly and very likely the cause of the carbon build up in one cylinder, insufficient combustion due to inadequate spark energy.
Change your plug gap to something more practical for iron heads and see what happens.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 02-15-2011).]
I doubt DIS ignition dictates what the spark plug gap should be more than the engine combination itself. Since the 3.4L is the only DIS iron head 60 degree motor GM produced you should gap the plugs according to its plug gap specs. .060 on an aluminum head motor is fine because it doesn't take as much ignition timing to light off the combustion mix due to their fast burn design and they were gapped to that spec from the factory. On the other hand, iron heads call for much more timing and you probably complicated that process with increased compression and increased spark plug gap possibly and very likely the cause of the carbon build up in one cylinder, insufficient combustion due to inadequate spark energy.
Change your plug gap to something more practical for iron heads and see what happens.
Well even when the mechanic put in the plug off the shelf and I later checked the gap (.035), #5 was the only one with carbon. I don't think it's a gap issue on that one...
With a peak at 5200, I find the stock roller cam PERFECT for the street. It's such a huge improvement over the hydraulic cam builds I've seen that I would never build such a dinosaur again.
I looked at "performance" cams prior to my rebuild back in '06 but only saw a 3-5 hp difference on dynos. To me it was not worth the money for an aftermarket cam with no advertised specs over stock.
Way back in page one of this thread there was a mention of taking .6" off the upper plenum, why was that? Also, could you elaborate on the drilling of an 1/8" hole in the thermostat for a by-pass hole? Where at in the thermostat? Pix? I'm starting the same swap with a 3400 from a '96 Lumina mini-van in my '85 notch automatic.
Way back in page one of this thread there was a mention of taking .6" off the upper plenum, why was that? Also, could you elaborate on the drilling of an 1/8" hole in the thermostat for a by-pass hole? Where at in the thermostat? Pix? I'm starting the same swap with a 3400 from a '96 Lumina mini-van in my '85 notch automatic.
Look at your stock intake and how the top 2 pieces mate. Look at the last pic in the 1st post and notice the difference. As for the hole thru the thermostat, it's just a hole, nothing magical about it. You just don't want it so big that there is too much flow thru it.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 02-15-2011).]
I guess I'm dense about the manifold cut. Is this something that HAS to be done, or is it performance mod? So a small hole in the flat flange on the thermostat. Got that anyway. I ended up getting a running 3400 out of an Olds Silhouette. I have a plenum modified per "dawg's" method, bored to 56mm. I was wondering if the plenum cut was because of using the 3400 block. I've read "Fierosound's" page and am trying to gleen as much info as I can.
[This message has been edited by raysr11 (edited 02-15-2011).]
I looked at "performance" cams prior to my rebuild back in '06 but only saw a 3-5 hp difference on dynos. To me it was not worth the money for an aftermarket cam with no advertised specs over stock.
Those test were most likely done with stock intakes and thus that sounds about right, It really isent cost effective to change the cam on a 60 V6 if dont do somethign about the intake. Lou, if still havent changed over to a heated please do, it will run so much better when cold. The stock headers are so restrictive the keep the exhaust temp a lot higher than aftermarket headers and thus dont need a heated o2. USAAUTO parts has an o2 for about $30 I think its #3000?
Those test were most likely done with stock intakes and thus that sounds about right, It really isent cost effective to change the cam on a 60 V6 if dont do somethign about the intake. Lou, if still havent changed over to a heated please do, it will run so much better when cold. The stock headers are so restrictive the keep the exhaust temp a lot higher than aftermarket headers and thus dont need a heated o2. USAAUTO parts has an o2 for about $30 I think its #3000?
I'm using your headers and honestly the car runs with more power when cold...as has every car I've ever driven...
I guess I'm dense about the manifold cut. Is this something that HAS to be done, or is it performance mod? So a small hole in the flat flange on the thermostat. Got that anyway. I ended up getting a running 3400 out of an Olds Silhouette. I have a plenum modified per "dawg's" method, bored to 56mm. I was wondering if the plenum cut was because of using the 3400 block. I've read "Fierosound's" page and am trying to gleen as much info as I can.
It was a performance mod. It showed an improvement in power on a 2.8. I would have loved to have hogged out the neck but I've since switched the Trueleo intake. In the end, I think it was the neck that held me back from making more power past 4100 rpm.
Well, I have my block and everything looks good. Going to get some DOHC pistons. As far as the cam vs the 1.6 rockers, way back in the thread someone had their cam reground by "Scheinder". Would that be the same as getting the 1.6 rockers? Money is about the same. One question, what head gasket did you use with the DOHC pistons? Earlier you said 3.4, someone else said "F" body 3.4, is that the cam/bird ironhead 3.4?
Well, I have my block and everything looks good. Going to get some DOHC pistons. As far as the cam vs the 1.6 rockers, way back in the thread someone had their cam reground by "Scheinder". Would that be the same as getting the 1.6 rockers? Money is about the same. One question, what head gasket did you use with the DOHC pistons? Earlier you said 3.4, someone else said "F" body 3.4, is that the cam/bird ironhead 3.4?
Thanks
You need 1.6 rockers to get the full .436" of lift. Stock Fiero cam only does .410 with 1.5's. Roller cam advantage is that the valve reach full lift sooner and stay at full lift longer which is why this cam outperforms any hydraulic cam you'd be wasting your money on in a non-roller cam setup. Unless your cam is damaged, I wouldn't bother with a regrind but that's up to you. I went with full roller rockers, I believe the stock 3400 rockers are roller rockers but not also roller tipped. I don't think you can use the stock 3400 rockers though. My motor is extremely quiet and smooth when I'm not on the gas.
Originally posted by raysr11: Well, I have my block and everything looks good. Going to get some DOHC pistons. As far as the cam vs the 1.6 rockers, way back in the thread someone had their cam reground by "Scheinder". Would that be the same as getting the 1.6 rockers? Money is about the same. One question, what head gasket did you use with the DOHC pistons? Earlier you said 3.4, someone else said "F" body 3.4, is that the cam/bird ironhead 3.4?
Thanks
I'd consider the regrind over the rockers for a conservative increase in duration to compliment the increased compression ratio.
I settled on a .050 plug gap which got rid of the misses and left with only detonation now... DarthFiero has at one point advanced my timing on the bottom end for some reason. I sent him a new timing map and he burned me a chip. I put more timing on the top end and less on the bottom. In this chip I also had him plug in some custom values to get both the speedometer and internal vehicle speed to be calculated correctly with the F40 transmission. It's installed along with new headliner from the Fiero Store. I have the car down to replace yet another HELD wheel bearing and the 12" front rotors and pads. Hopefully someday this car will drive smooth...
Unfortunately Summit doesn't expect to ship the rotors until February 6th... :/ Also still waiting to receive the bearing from the NEW owner of HELD Motorsports/Westshore... Erik sold the business...
Needless to say I will report the results of the new chip as soon as the bearing comes in and the new rotors. If it drives smooth, finally, I will take it to a dyno again.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 01-26-2012).]
Finally took it to a dyno with the Trueleo swap + '7730 conversion...
Results are disappointing.
158.52 hp @ 4600 rpm, 195.48 ft*lbs @ 3800 rpm. Air/fuel was 10:1 at 3200 rpm and 12:1 at 5100 rpm and on....
It almost doesn't make sense since I did 187/249 with the Fiero intake and stock ECM... Different dyno shops, but come on, really? Well, no wonder I haven't snapped any axles with this setup...
I sent the dyno file to Ryan for another tune...
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 05-15-2012).]
Finally took it to a dyno with the Trueleo swap + '7730 conversion...
Results are disappointing.
158.52 hp @ 4600 rpm, 195.48 ft*lbs @ 3800 rpm. Air/fuel was 10:1 at 3200 rpm and 12:1 at 5100 rpm and on....
It almost doesn't make sense since I did 187/249 with the Fiero intake and stock ECM... Different dyno shops, but come on, really? Well, no wonder I haven't snapped any axles with this setup...
I sent the dyno file to Ryan for another tune...
That stinks for all the effort, you may need Darth at the dyno to make realtime adjustments to get all of the potential out of it. 12:1 is good but I bet you pick up some power by lifting that 10:1 area up to the same.
