Joseph, I also noted the Aerostar and VW axles using that catalog link you supplied..
..I eagerly await any news on joining the two.. I am going to call my father (Runs an auto parts store) and see if he can shed some light on what CV axles out there are 33 splined on the inboard side..
..I am still tossing the idea around to cut the G6 axle and weld a stock WBody to the outboard side..
..Another idea was sent my way by someone else trying this swap in a Grand Prix:
quote
On the trans side- use the stock g6 "cups", on the wheel side the 284/ any 1st gen w-body "cup". And use the axle from a 1997=-2002 gp with the 3100
Im trying to make sense of this one, as I do not have any axles to experiment with.. I am going to try and get AN AXLE to play with and see what parts can be taken apart..
Again, I wait for any info you might come up with Joseph!
To my knowledge the inboard tripot for the G6 is one of a kind, the rollers are huge and although you can insert the tripot end from another joint into the cup the clearance will be excessive probably causing joint noise and eventual failure. As for the joint end that will not help the Fiero guys since the hubs on the W body cars call for a different spline configuration. I could be wrong but from what I recall they were larger because of the increased weight. I contacted some more suppliers about the axle shaft options.
I remember you mentioning something about how large the rollers are on the G6 axles.. I am going to be picking up my 6 speed when my tax return comes, so I'll make them give me the Int. shaft and a set of axles with it..
..I am also going to contact my father at the auto parts shop he manages to get a wider view of CV axles out there.. His books should also have spline counts, similar to what was in the link you supplied on Page 2..
Originally posted by Joseph Upson: As for the joint end that will not help the Fiero guys since the hubs on the W body cars call for a different spline configuration. I could be wrong but from what I recall they were larger because of the increased weight. I contacted some more suppliers about the axle shaft options.
The splines on the W bodies are not compatible with the Fiero, but the internal parts are the same as the manual Fiero CV's. I made my custom axles for my S* 4T65E from hybrid W body/Fiero/6000 axle assemblies. You can take the shaft out of the Fiero CV and slide it into the W body CV or take the cage and balls out of the W body CV and put them in a manual Fiero CV.
I'm needing to sell a car, then I'll have enough money to go buy my 6 speed.. ANyone want a 97 Achieva?
..I got a quote of 115 for resplining of 2 CV axles from Moser.. Once I have my needed length calculated (TO go INTO a WBOdy) I'll be shipping a BRAND NEW set of CV axles off to them (Brand new, so I can have a few miles before something fails.. Im not totally opposed to the previous welding options, but for the price of the G6 axles, and the susequent axles, I would meet or exceed the price of the resplining operation from Moser..
..I know Joseph has been looking forward to some time off to look into this more.. Joseph, let me know when you have a chance to look at the 6 speed shifter.. I can PayPal you as soon as you find it..
How is everyone else moving along with their 6 speed projects? As stated, I need to sell a car, then I can go get mine..
I'm needing to sell a car, then I'll have enough money to go buy my 6 speed.. ANyone want a 97 Achieva?
..I got a quote of 115 for resplining of 2 CV axles from Moser.. Once I have my needed length calculated (TO go INTO a WBOdy) I'll be shipping a BRAND NEW set of CV axles off to them (Brand new, so I can have a few miles before something fails.. Im not totally opposed to the previous welding options, but for the price of the G6 axles, and the susequent axles, I would meet or exceed the price of the resplining operation from Moser..
..I know Joseph has been looking forward to some time off to look into this more.. Joseph, let me know when you have a chance to look at the 6 speed shifter.. I can PayPal you as soon as you find it..
How is everyone else moving along with their 6 speed projects? As stated, I need to sell a car, then I can go get mine..
I'll try and post some pictures today, I'm home for a couple of days but have to fix a failed evap system to stop the pressurizing of my fuel tank and the fumes as well as restore my exhaust system from the accident I had 6 wks ago.
According to the axle rebuilder I spoke to Thurs. GM makes the strongest/hardest axles and always have so resplining is a great way to go if you have used G6 axles HOWEVER, it may only work for the driver side in the Fiero only because GM sized their axles for certain cars and took measures to make it difficult to interchange them like grind the area down to a smaller diameter immediately behind the splines so the shaft is to narrow to spline and grind rings at certain points on the axle at locations that would also interfere with resplining after the axle has been cut.
One positive I suspected and confirmed is that the outboard joint internals are the same for the Fiero and the G6 except for the spline count and therefore for several other cars so for the fwd cars the axle problem may not be as tough especially if the G6 axles are already the proper length where in you would only need to take the cage assembly out of your current axle joint and swop in the the G6 cage assembly with the 33 spline configuration. It is very likely the axle parts from the later automatic cars can help also because they are likely 33 spline as well.
Which ever route is taken seems to be costly, even my initial approach might be a problem because the female joint end may extend outward to far, the transmission is overall 1" wider between the axles, 1" further from the hub on the right and 2" closer to the hub on the left = .5" for both sides when centered and the female cup looks to add about that much so you loose at least 1" of plunge depth on both sides.
The Chrysler axle on the other hand is long enough and doesn't have the antics GM incorporated so the inboard end can be cut and repsplined for the G6 inboard joints if the OE G6 axles with the intermediate shafts do not have enough length for the process.
The driver side G6 axle up top compared to the driver side Fiero axle which would need to be shortened by 2" (the G6 axle even more) to clear the tranny increased width to the lft side, note that the resplining would take place in an area of the G6 shaft with the ring grooves I spoke of.
Although you can't see it the control arm is hanging down indicating the shaft will move inward some more and likely be too long due to the distance the female adapted cup extends outward, the transmission is however shifted 1" toward the right but that still does not appear to be enough for proper clearance once moved to the position it would normally rest in unshifted.
Outboard joint internals G6 left Fiero right, the G6 joint snaps on the Fiero joint locks on.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 03-17-2007).]
On second thought the driverside G6 axle will work, it's not quite at the 2" shorter than the OE Fiero axle but it should be close enough. One of the series of grooves can be used as the new location for the lock ring found on the Fiero joint and there is a long enough patch of normal diameter to fully spline the internal hub. It would probably be better to use the second groove inward as the new lock ring location and the over all axle down to the joint will be stronger than before because the tapered down diameter has been eliminated at that point.
Since the internal parts of the outboard joints are interchangeable this can probably be done at the inboard joint end as well. Since resplining is about $115 the better option maybe to get the Chrysler axle or an equivalent axle and have it cut and resplined at both ends so that there is no taper at either end before entering the joint.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 03-17-2007).]
Joseph, which chrysler axle? the LHS/concorde? THe info I have doesnt specifically state what the spline count is for those axles.. There are some "gaps" in my information though.. Eliminating GM's "antics" as you put it would make it a lot easier in adapting the axles..
I'll look into it more at both fronts.. I know GM's axles are the toughest around, and I do beleive some of the axles out there currently will work better for my application..
..And thanks on the pic thing.. WHnever you get the time bro.. Thats fine with me..
Joseph, which chrysler axle? the LHS/concorde? THe info I have doesnt specifically state what the spline count is for those axles.. There are some "gaps" in my information though.. Eliminating GM's "antics" as you put it would make it a lot easier in adapting the axles..
I'll look into it more at both fronts.. I know GM's axles are the toughest around, and I do beleive some of the axles out there currently will work better for my application..
..And thanks on the pic thing.. WHnever you get the time bro.. Thats fine with me..
I believe both the Concorde and LHS have the same axle, the specs are on my desktop back in Atlanta so I can't confirm that but I'm pretty certain given the similar sizes of the cars. I'll try and post some more pertinent pics with the parts on the cradle today for more measurements.
Sounds good.. I was looking through my information, but couldn't find the spline counts from the LHS.. Am I looking for the LHS w/ the 3.5? What year range? SHouldnt be tough to find seeing as how the Chryselrs are rarely picked clean at my yard..
On mock up it appears the right side G6 intermediate shaft and axle will work with just the outboard joint internals swapped. It looks close (not seen in the picture) but my current setup has been shifted 1 inch to the passenger side so once restored to the stock position it should be near perfect requiring the driver side shaft to be shortened about 2" and resplined. The Chrysler female joint seen next to the G6 joint can be used directly along with the appropriate length 32 spline shaft ~ 15" from the 91-95 caravan and voyager and several 98-99 GM vehicles across all four makes. The bottom line is if you walk into an axle reman shop and tell them you need a 15" 32 spline shaft they can find it easily, if that is in fact a little too long there are several in the 14" range so the passenger side with just the intermediate shaft to start with is an easy job with or without the OE G6 axle.
That leaves the driver side which unless there is a male joint other than the G6 joint that will work Chrysler being the only hope, given their female joint, it will require the OE axle and a cut and respline.
I never completed the task of disassembling the Saab axle joint so who knows it maybe possible yet to use it especially if the outboard splined end is solid because it can be resized and resplined and because it has a tubular shaft like that of a driveshaft the axle rebuilder said it's okay to cut and weld it back together for that reason. Therefore it appears it will be possible to accomplish the axle task in the $500 or less range using a combination of used, and new (if you can get them) parts or the adapters I had made which would require shortening and resplining the left axle.
If I am correct about the Saab axles they will be a very practical option to cut and weld to the proper length for what ever that costs ~$60 plus resplining to fit the Fiero joints $115 a pair, they are pretty reasonably priced used and a simple plate extended to the intermediate shafts mounting bracket for mounting is all that would be needed to secure the shaft which is a little shorter than the G6 intermediate shaft.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 03-19-2007).]
Which Saab are these axles from Joseph? Is the Saab's inboard count correct to mate up to the 6 speed? Or are you taliking to cut and weld this axle?
At any rate, GREAT info and pictures!! And also some awesome news about the outboard joint, being able to use stock internals.. I am still going to look at all my options as I am not dropping this into a Fiero, but it seems building a hybrid axle from the outboard joint to the wheel hub may be the best option, especially for me.. Especially since someone measured the 284 vs. G6 axles, and their lengths were basically the same, as I stated earlier..
..I will be finishing the teardown and rebuild of my DOHC, and once I get that car sold, I'll go nab up my transmission!
I am going to see about finding a set of G6 axles in advance if at all possible, and look into what I will need to do for my Lumina project..
Which Saab are these axles from Joseph? Is the Saab's inboard count correct to mate up to the 6 speed? Or are you taliking to cut and weld this axle?
At any rate, GREAT info and pictures!! And also some awesome news about the outboard joint, being able to use stock internals.. I am still going to look at all my options as I am not dropping this into a Fiero, but it seems building a hybrid axle from the outboard joint to the wheel hub may be the best option, especially for me.. Especially since someone measured the 284 vs. G6 axles, and their lengths were basically the same, as I stated earlier..
..I will be finishing the teardown and rebuild of my DOHC, and once I get that car sold, I'll go nab up my transmission!
I am going to see about finding a set of G6 axles in advance if at all possible, and look into what I will need to do for my Lumina project..
The F40 originated in the Saab back as early as 2003 in the 9-3 series so proper fit is assured, the most encouraging thing about the Saab axles is that they apparently share the same spline configuration on the automatics also and the 9-5 from what someone mentioned earlier has either a longer version of the same axles or stronger or both. Since the joint ends of the shafts themselves are pretty thick they can probably be turned down and resplined and as I mentioned earlier because of the tubular designed shaft they are okay to weld on.
The Saab axles are more abundant at a good price as opposed buying a brand new G6 axle and paying to have it modified. The last pictures posted are of the G6 axle attached to its intermediate shaft.
I'll be sending the other shaft off soon for shortening and resplining.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 03-20-2007).]
I have a sneaky suspicion that the F35 5 spd used in the Cobalt, Saturn Ion and Saab 9-5 have the proper spline configuration to fit the F40 mainly because it is used in the Saab 9-5 and from earlier information posted the Saab vehicles carry the same spline configuration across the 9-3 and 9-5 manual and automatic trannies, and that's not likely to have changed with the vehicle. If this is correct the axle sources have greatly improved.
I might take a trip to my local GM dealership and see if I can get some information from them about spline counts for these transmissions.. Also, I am going to look in some literature I have here about finding the counts for the Saab 93s and 95s..
The Saab 9-5 uses the same shafts, all years and all models (Not sure about the V6 versions.) How ever, they do use different tripods and tulips (Not sure about the parts names.) where the "Aero" models has the biggest once. If i understand the Saab folks on "Swedish Saab Turbo Club" forum correct. There are atleast 3 different sets (Size) tulip/tripod.
Difference betvine the 9-3 and 9-5 axels, are the fact that the two cars have different axel width, hence the axels are shorter on 9-3. It's very likely that propper over all length can be acuired from mixing the Saab axel parts, how ever the problem of switching to Fiero outgoing axel still has to be adressed. And yes, what ever tranys has been used in the 9-5, existing in other GM-models in the US would fit the F40. I know of two tranys exept the F40. F28 and F35, but chanses are those cars would use weaker shafts. Since the tranys are weaker. (F28 rated @ 280Nm, and F35 rated @ 350Nm.. Se the patern. )
The Saab 9-5 uses the same shafts, all years and all models (Not sure about the V6 versions.) How ever, they do use different tripods and tulips (Not sure about the parts names.) where the "Aero" models has the biggest once. If i understand the Saab folks on "Swedish Saab Turbo Club" forum correct. There are atleast 3 different sets (Size) tulip/tripod.
Difference betvine the 9-3 and 9-5 axels, are the fact that the two cars have different axel width, hence the axels are shorter on 9-3. It's very likely that propper over all length can be acuired from mixing the Saab axel parts, how ever the problem of switching to Fiero outgoing axel still has to be adressed. And yes, what ever tranys has been used in the 9-5, existing in other GM-models in the US would fit the F40. I know of two tranys exept the F40. F28 and F35, but chanses are those cars would use weaker shafts. Since the tranys are weaker. (F28 rated @ 280Nm, and F35 rated @ 350Nm.. Se the patern. )
The axles maybe different lengths across the transmissions but not necessarily weaker in the GM applications when one standard axle covering the full load range is probably much cheaper than making multiple versions. The F35 has a lower torque rating but at a higher gross vehicle weight than the F40 so it is not necessarily a weaker transmission. If the F35 uses the same spline configuration then axles from that transmission which is probably more abundant than the F40 can be used in the modification process.
..Went to a parts shop today, and had a look at their axle ordering books.. According to their catalogs, the Saab 9-3, 9-5, and 900 series axles for the appropriate years are 34 splined.. So, what I gathered after my trip:
A) THe catalog has a typo B) The spline count we have is incorrect
I am having my father talk with a GM dealer he is good friends with.. I'm hoping he can clear this up once and for all.. If our (Joseph's) spline count is wrong, and he is using the Saab axles w/ the 34 splines as noted in the books I looked at today, then that opens the flood gates as to waht will work..
..If the book is wrong, then we can continue as we have been doing.. I though I should throw that out there, as if the pot weren't stirred enough, lol.. I will report back when I hear anything new!
..Went to a parts shop today, and had a look at their axle ordering books.. According to their catalogs, the Saab 9-3, 9-5, and 900 series axles for the appropriate years are 34 splined.. So, what I gathered after my trip:
A) THe catalog has a typo B) The spline count we have is incorrect
I am having my father talk with a GM dealer he is good friends with.. I'm hoping he can clear this up once and for all.. If our (Joseph's) spline count is wrong, and he is using the Saab axles w/ the 34 splines as noted in the books I looked at today, then that opens the flood gates as to waht will work..
..If the book is wrong, then we can continue as we have been doing.. I though I should throw that out there, as if the pot weren't stirred enough, lol.. I will report back when I hear anything new!
Are you speaking of the axle shaft splines or the outboard joint end that inserts into the hub bearing?
That will not affect the G6 axle because it's different from the Saab axle, the joints are different from the Saab joints also and that's what you need to try and get info on as well because they use different style joints across those vehicles, the reason I had not completely disassembled the Saab axle is because the one I have is a little complicated and the inboard cup doesn't just come right off after the boot clamps are removed, it has some kind of interlocking mechanism that I didn't bother trying to figure out since I had the G6 axles. Another important thing about the Saab axle is that it can be purchased in parts.
As for the Saab axle having 34 splines it still shouldn't be a problem because the diameter of the Saab axle shaft that inserts into the joints is considerably larger than the G6 axles and appear to be the same diameter as the inboard joint end that inserts into the transmission which is pretty thick and although I don't recall the measurement I'm pretty confident it's thick enough to be turned down and resplined to fit the GM outboard joints.
Also don't forget to check on the axles for the US version of the F35 transmission in the Cobalt and Saturn Ion which may work for the F40 also. I'll probably send my axle off next week for resplining.
I just bought one of those offered on ebay for $390. I'm interested in trying to fit it to one of my N* Fieros. I'll be watching your build closely. Thanks a lot.
Thank you so much for your work on this. I too bought an F40 on ebay, and am hoping to either connect it to a Northstar or a 4.9 Caddy, getting it to match up with the engine, is not as much an issue as matching up the Fiero axles, so I am watching this topic with great interest. Just for info, I bought the F40 for $565 (ebay), but it is new.
Hopefully I'll be able to make some real progress somewhere over the next 3 months. The axles for the 5spd F35 need to be looked at and since I already have the G6 axles which appear to only need to be shortened and resplined on the driverside and the outboard joint internals swopped I think I'll leave that to someone else to explore unless I happen across a place that has one available for examining.
Here is the shift assembly with its three cables, I didn't put much effort into checking the third cable out but it does something when the shifter is moved to reverse. It is also evident from a thread placed on the Z24 forum from the G6 forum that GM was having problems with the F40 transmission rebelling during certain shifts as evidenced by the number of G6 owners chiming in throughout the thread with the same complaint along with individuals doing vehicle test drive reviews and apparently some Saab F40 owners as well. Some of the vehicles were replaced under warranty and lemon laws due to the problem and the owners persistance.
There was also an implication that GM seemed to be in denial about the complaint from what I read. Whatever the case there is a possibility that the abundance of these new trannies in the "free" world has more to do with the unforseen mechanical problem than the initial gear ratios they were well aware of in advance.
It looks like the engineers were serious about keeping air out of the hydraulic line and anything else that might cause a problem with check valves etc...
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 04-02-2007).]
I haven't been on for a while (No PC) but I intend to explore the option of swapping outboard joint internals.. As stated, the G6 axles are the same length as the HM284 axles, which were stock option in a few select WBodies w/ the LQ1 (Which is what I am rebuilding)..
..My goal right now is to finish up the rebuild, and slap everything onto the cradle.. Then see what I need as far as lengths go.. When I get my transmission, I am going to try my damndest to get the int. shaft bracket and the axles..
And Joseph, I am replying to you in the next few moments..
I haven't been on for a while (No PC) but I intend to explore the option of swapping outboard joint internals.. As stated, the G6 axles are the same length as the HM284 axles, which were stock option in a few select WBodies w/ the LQ1 (Which is what I am rebuilding)..
..My goal right now is to finish up the rebuild, and slap everything onto the cradle.. Then see what I need as far as lengths go.. When I get my transmission, I am going to try my damndest to get the int. shaft bracket and the axles..
And Joseph, I am replying to you in the next few moments..
You can get the transmission all day long now, it's the axles that are the problem and I would get those before the transmission if they are available to you. I checked with GM about 3 months ago and there was only one brand new set available in the country and total cost for them after the GMparts direct fingerprint fee (shipping and handling) look at about ~$800 shipped, maybe more and don't even think about paying regular price at the local dealership.
... It is also evident from a thread placed on the Z24 forum from the G6 forum that GM was having problems with the F40 transmission rebelling during certain shifts as evidenced by the number of G6 owners chiming in throughout the thread with the same complaint along with individuals doing vehicle test drive reviews and apparently some Saab F40 owners as well. ..
I have some problems down shifting from 3rd to 2nd not wanting to go in but maybe is my linkage. Now just like the Getrag I do agree it does feel smoother once it is warmed up.
I have some problems down shifting from 3rd to 2nd not wanting to go in but maybe is my linkage. Now just like the Getrag I do agree it does feel smoother once it is warmed up.
Does it use synchromesh and I wonder if overfilling it a little might help by slowing the idle gears rotating, which the reverse gear in the getrag tends to do when you come to a forward stop and attempt to go in reverse.
Does it use synchromesh and I wonder if overfilling it a little might help by slowing the idle gears rotating, which the reverse gear in the getrag tends to do when you come to a forward stop and attempt to go in reverse.
Part number is different from synchromesh but may be a different blend. I have no clue on the overfill. I filled per procedure I posted here before.
I made a trip home and was able to do a little measuring.
With the engine in the proper location instead of shifted to the right it looks like my initial approach using the short shafts mated to female inboard joint cups is just right in a semi mock up. I was pressed for time and trying to work with the 6spd and the twin turbo setup and had to divide the time. Since the right side shaft seal of the transmission is 1" further to the left compared to the Fiero transmission the extra length added by the pluge joint swop puts it about right back where it should be. I will know for sure about everything when it is installed in the car and the spindles are more accurately positioned according to strut location on the mount.
On the passenger side using the jackshaft from the G6 the Fiero left side short axle comes up to short,
however the G6 axle appears to be just right
There was an interesting surprise upon acquiring a front mount bracket (Thanks Brian Lamberts for getting it to me so fast, hope you don't mind what I did to it) and installing it as you can see in the picture below.
Ofcourse I'm going to reinforce it.
The left side I'm not sure about as of yet, although the output seal is 2" further to the left and the female inboard joint cup fitted with the short shaft moves the joint even further to the left, the Fiero axle still appears to fit though I'm sure when mounted in the car it will be different. The outboard retaining clip can be removed and the non splined tapered tip of the axle can be ground down for more depth and it is also possible that the tranny might sit a little higher than the Fiero tranny resulting in a lilttle more clearance. If not there appeared to have been room on the G6 axle for cutting and resplining to a shorter lenght to cover it.
While changing out a shifter cable I noticed the gate select cable on the Muncie 4 spd appears it may have the correct size cup to fit the 6spd transmission shift lever ball studs. It is smaller than the gear select cable ball stud and looks like it should snap right on.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 04-16-2007).]
Sweet progress Joseph! Better than myself.. I have to buy a new DOHC because I discovered yesterday mine has been pretty much obliterated. Imagine dropping a bolt or a washer into one of the cylinders while revving it to 7k.. Then leave it there and drive it like that.. I just washed my hands of it and will park it for now..
..I am getting a DOHC from a local member of another forum I frequent. I will be swapping over my 96 heads, cams, carriers, covers, and intakes, so getting my OBD2 to work correctly will not be an issue.. I am going to hunt down a 6 speed after I submit this reply..
..I am still confident I can utilize most of the G6 axles if/when I find them and just swap outboard joint parts.. Having an assembled, low mileage (For it's age- 92 LQ1 w/ ~100k) will make it easier to move to the transmission work needed to make this thing move, and get the mounts made.. I can't really compare with your progress at this point because of the completely different applications we are working on..
Oh, and Joseph, I'll be PMing you here or on 60degree in the coming weeks to buy those parts from you. You have top priority as far as parts go (Save for the motor, because it is local, AND the price is something I CANNOT pass up)
Threads not dead, I have to wait for (rare) time off from my education to go home and finish, the next trip will just about do it or come pretty close.
I guess at this point in time no one has found a solustion in making drive axles? Now that I work for a company that not only modifys cars but they a the manufactures of a company called Enjo... A Canadian ownd company, this company makes the aftermarket shafts for Hondas and Acuras, all the Jap scraps hehe.. Well they will aquire the company that makes their shafts and they had said to me they can make anything I need... What I need from some of you are the dimensions and what inboard measurements for the tri-pod bearing and I do have the outter for the fiero wheel bearing. I would like to find out a cost to make them in different stages, horse power levels. Any help would be great.
I guess at this point in time no one has found a solustion in making drive axles? Now that I work for a company that not only modifys cars but they a the manufactures of a company called Enjo... A Canadian ownd company, this company makes the aftermarket shafts for Hondas and Acuras, all the Jap scraps hehe.. Well they will aquire the company that makes their shafts and they had said to me they can make anything I need... What I need from some of you are the dimensions and what inboard measurements for the tri-pod bearing and I do have the outter for the fiero wheel bearing. I would like to find out a cost to make them in different stages, horse power levels. Any help would be great.
Joe
All of that information should be in here, I'm away from home at the moment and will not return to finish what I have started for another month and a half. The most effective solution is the manufacture of inboard joint cups that will accept the Fiero inboard tripot roller bearings and since for the most part axle failures usually don't affect the inboard cup itself I hardly suspect multiple power levels are necessary given how well the stock axles hold up under high horse swops. I have also found that the SC 5 spd Saturn Ion and Chevy Cobalt uses the same axle spline configuration and there is a good possibility the axles are short enough to incorporate into the swop without an axle shaft modification. Except for the short shafts I had custom made an intermediate shaft must be used with this transmission because of the offset final drive. So far considering what I have spent on OE parts that require further fine tuning, the short shafts may be the best option so far depending on the actual plunge depth remaining after the female tripot cups are installed.
There is so much involved with this swop that I doubt it would be cost effective for someone to manufacture axles only for it expecting to sell a number worth the effort, and at the same time except for the novelty of it being a 6spd and rated stronger than the Getrag it may only carry a small following of those wanting to DIY. The auto trannies especially the new 6 spd with tip tronic shift are far more attractive and much stronger and except for managing, probably not half the trouble axle wise. But this is the path I've chosen so I have to finish it.
I have some pictures of the aluminum flywheel I made for the 3800 6 speed swap.
[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa160/teamracetech/3800G6flywheelcustom6.jpg[/IMG} Joe
Archie I know you offer axles, but you offer them with a complete conversion kit..
That's "purdy" man. I'm assuming the bolts are made out of the exact same material the friction plate is otherwise they will wear at a different rate correct? I'm curious because I can see where they were also machined along with the surface.
Have you considered making a disc like spacer that could be used on the stock flywheel and lined up by the pressure plate bolts? That's about all the OE 6spd flywheel is, two pieces of metal disc attached and centered together. I like the OE flywheel because of the internal dampening mechanism which allows for a stronger clutch disc hub. The clutch rebuilder that built my Kevlar clutch said that the hub is pretty strong given the thicknes in the metal at what has been a trouble spot for clutch discs.
That's some very nice work you have there. I hope to have this outfit up, running and dynoed in early Aug. Thanks for sharing your work.
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