I didnt think the 3900 would bolt in. I look at my wifes Malibu with a 3500 and it doesnt look like it would be a very easy bolt in.
It's a 60 degree motor and bolts in with no more effort than what it would take for the smaller cube fwd motors: 3500,3400 and 3100 using the 85-87 Fiero V6 front engine bracket. The only reason I needed to place a small notch in the edge of the trunk wall is because I was to tired and far along to do a little trimming on the exhaust manifold flange. If it had been bolted to a Fiero tranny it probably would have cleared without a problem. merlot has completed the 3500 which is little to no different except for cosmetics externally than the 3400.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 04-08-2008).]
It's not a 3900 but it's a relevant swap. This is a video of one of the 60 degree V6 forum member's built 3500 which was last told to be pushing about 300 hp at the crank. It has since been upgraded a bit from that rating using performance parts available from the store. This is a proven viable option for those aspiring for more power in a small package without boost assist.
The 3900 V6 specs are 240 HP and 240 ft lbs of torque and it uses a variable cam technology. That's very respectable power and inline with a series II 3800SC. Now we see guys getting 300HP with some mods but boosting this engine for even high horsepower may proove impractical. Still the engine is an interesting swap choice but one that may proove difficult to wire and tune. The PCM for these is a ETC/drive by wire is it not?
------------------ 87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
The 3900 V6 specs are 240 HP and 240 ft lbs of torque and it uses a variable cam technology. That's very respectable power and inline with a series II 3800SC. Now we see guys getting 300HP with some mods but boosting this engine for even high horsepower may proove impractical. Still the engine is an interesting swap choice but one that may proove difficult to wire and tune. The PCM for these is a ETC/drive by wire is it not?
You should review the thread Dennis, there are two 3500 V6 engines, one with and without VVT, the car in the above video is using the non VVT 3500, merlot on this forum has the same engine in a Fiero as can be seen on page 3 in his video. I'm not sure what you're getting at regarding the 3900 as impractical from a boost stand point given GM has already displayed a 270 hp HO version of it, I've already proven it's just as practical a swap as the other aluminum head engines except for the turbos and the 6 spd.
I'm using a 730 ecm and TGP code and just haven't had the time to tune the engine while on the road. I have already addressed everything that you have taken issue with. You apparently are under the impression that I have an electric throttle body although it was replaced with the same throttlebody you are using on your 3800 SC from the northstar. I've actually driven the car and had no flags occur, not sure what you mean by difficulty in wiring up the engine, I'm not dealing with any nightmares near what the LS4 swap presents.
Despite the VVT the engine is quite simple because it is cam in block VVT, the equivalent of offset degreeing the cam forward or backwards only my cam is fixed in the straight up position as if it did not have VVT at all. My concern now is whether or not I over did it with the cam regrind otherwise it cranks up idles and revs fine but needs to be driven and datalogged to get the fuel tables and injectors dialed in and that is more an issue with the TGP code itself when used in a non automatic car. It produces so much power in stock form it doesn't need high boost for high output.
p.s. SuperDave owns the car in the above video and his 3500 was producing more than 300 hp at the crank before the most resent rebuild and upgrade, that's from a stock 220 hp rating, not small beans by any measure naturally aspirated particularly compared to a larger blown engine like the 3800 SC.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 04-18-2008).]
Joseph: Still keeping up with your thread. And find it very interesting and artful ( shows signs of good craftmanship). Just want to pick your brain some more but what size of turbo would you have used if using just one? I went to a web site, forget the addy but after giving all the info for a 3900 it said GT30 with 1.06 a/r ( don't know what the a/r is ) think it was for 15 lb of boost and support 500 hp. Think the GT25 was good for 10 lbs boost. Just interested in your opinion. Still learning and asking questions.
------------------
85 GT 3.4 14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06 Unknown New 4T60/3.42
The best I could come up with over the MAPs I viewed is the T72 or GT4202 putting peak output in the 78% island of the MAP. The two into one style exhaust manifolds one of which can be seen in the first pictures in the thread would be great for a single turbo. Leaving the VVT module in tact and applying a simple on off activation switch retarding the cam at about 3500 rpm would be most effective in an effort to maintain a good bottom end idle and response, then optimal high end performance especially if you regrind the cam to increased duration specs. That would reduce the amount of bottom end power loss and still maintain much of the mild idle character until you open it up.
Joe: What is was getting at in my post is the VVT makes maximum power by helping maximize volumetric effeciency and cylinder pressures . Therefore I would believe. that if you wanted to boost this engine it might prove difficult. As for controls I didn't pick up on the fact that you have scrapped the ETC as I have on my series III. You seem to focus on what you perceive as negative comments in my post without reading the lines that say good things and simply raise questions not make judgements. Words like might, possibly , could, may and the like are meant to provoke thought and make for positive conversation and as such are not authoritative. If you have all the answers and know everything about automobile engines, then all I can say is that you're a better man than I.
------------------ 87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 04-19-2008).]
Sorry Dennis, but I didn't refer to anything you said as negative or make a statement indicating that I know everything there is to know about motors. I expressed a lack of understanding regarding the things you were suggesting would make the swap impractical for boost. I did correctly gather that you missed some concerns I had already addressed and I responded by suggesting you go over the thread again.
Unless I make an overt statement, it's probably safer to assume no offense intended than to read between the lines for my tone regarding anything I've written here. I don't participate in slinging insults on the forum, even where it's well deserved.
Sorry Dennis, but I didn't refer to anything you said as negative or make a statement indicating that I know everything there is to know about motors. I expressed a lack of understanding regarding the things you were suggesting would make the swap impractical for boost. I did correctly gather that you missed some concerns I had already addressed and I responded by suggesting you go over the thread again.
Unless I make an overt statement, it's probably safer to assume no offense intended than to read between the lines for my tone regarding anything I've written here. I don't participate in slinging insults on the forum, even where it's well deserved.
Joe: I just wanted it known that I'm very much for your project and not anyway against it. Its good that we cleared the air. You are one of the few if not the only pioneer doing this Fiero swap and breaking new ground is always fascinating. For this you deserve a lot of credit. Actually I am somewhat envious. My swap required a supercharger to get to 260HP while you have nearly this N/A. Now that's efficiency. Now here's a question. You are using the time tested 730 C3 ECM for engine management. Your 3900 is a newer high tech high efficiency V6 engine design. Have you looked into OBDII and if this would provide any advantage? We used a 03 OBDII PCM on the GTP swap and we really like the extra diagnostic capability and the more complex way that it deals with engine management. With OBDII you might even be able to get back the displacemnt on demand feature. This would give you power and who knows maybe 40 MPG. ------------------ 87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 04-19-2008).]
Joe: I just wanted it known that I'm very much for your project and not anyway against it. Its good that we cleared the air. You are one of the few if not the only pioneer doing this Fiero swap and breaking new ground is always fascinating. For this you deserve a lot of credit. Actually I am somewhat envious. My swap required a supercharger to get to 260HP while you have nearly this N/A. Now that's efficiency. Now here's a question. You are using the time tested 730 C3 ECM for engine management. Your 3900 is a newer high tech high efficiency V6 engine design. Have you looked into OBDII and if this would provide any advantage? We used a 03 OBDII PCM on the GTP swap and we really like the extra diagnostic capability and the more complex way that it deals with engine management. With OBDII you might even be able to get back the displacemnt on demand feature. This would give you power and who knows maybe 40 MPG.
I forgot to mention there are two 3900 engines also, DOD and non DOD, I believe the 07 Impala and Montecarlo are the only two to get the DOD version of this engine and I purposely opted out of this option for fear it might limit performance due to lifter design. I steered away from OBD II because the engine itself is complicated enough in some ways and since I had no previous swap info to draw from I wanted to keep engine management simple in addition to my disdain for MAF sensors. Given the accomplishments with the 3800 mpg wise I was still thinking the possibility of approaching 40 MPG is possible given higher efficiency and the 6 spd transmission plus activating lean engine run mode. Since there is an oil squirter for each piston they'll run cooler than what they normally would without them for added protection against a leaner AFR mix during light cruise.
The potential problem is my camshaft which has been reground with more duration and a wider LSA. If the cam doesn't come on early enough fuel economy will suffer at cruise rpm below its efficiency range. I'm already certain I'll need to change from the .63 turbine housings to .48 to improve bottom end performance. I'm also having second thoughts about having locked the cam fully in the straight up position. I should have left some advance available to retard from to keep a little of the VVT function active. Since this is cam in block VVT all I would need to do is choose an rpm to activate the module to retard the cam back to optimum top end performance. My Zeitronix wideband O2 module can be programmed to do that. The module only requires a simple on off function to restore some of the dual cam function. Depending on the response I get after some test drive tuning, I may remove the modified cam and install the stock cam with the VVT module in tact and set to retard at about 3000 rpm.
Since peak power is at 6k stock it shouldn't require much more than about 9 psi to hit 400 hp at the crank using water injection. I'm really hoping that it is not over cammed by to much and if it is that it makes up for it on top end. I imagine now it should be efficient to about 6500 rpm maybe a little more. The stock flywheel is heavy and that will help with launching. I know the VE table is way off because of the power curve difference between it and the old TGP 3.1
Hopefully I'll be returning home next weekend in an effort to finish it. I miss driving the car and need more power than the 3.0 V6 Honda I'm driving right now is putting out.
I am loving this thread. Your work is inspirational. I forget if you mentioned this or not, but are you planning on taking this down a 1/4 mile or on a dyno when you are satisfied with how it is running? Either way I am excited and captivated by your project!
Edit: I don't quite understand how the VVT works. Is there a link you could point me to that explains it? One day I see myself doing this swap, but first, there are some things I must get a better handle on. Thanks
[This message has been edited by LZeppelin513 (edited 04-21-2008).]
I am loving this thread. Your work is inspirational. I forget if you mentioned this or not, but are you planning on taking this down a 1/4 mile or on a dyno when you are satisfied with how it is running? Either way I am excited and captivated by your project!
Edit: I don't quite understand how the VVT works. Is there a link you could point me to that explains it? One day I see myself doing this swap, but first, there are some things I must get a better handle on. Thanks
The engine is twin turbocharged and yes I certainly intend to have it dynoed once tuned appropriately which I'm sure will require quite a bit of effort since its efficiency level is so much higher than the turbo 3.1 engine that the base code is from having at least 800 rpm between peak output levels not to mention what the cam regrind might have added up top.
There are several variations of VVT in function and as it relates to the name. For American cars cam in block VVT, 3500 and 3900, is not as advantageous as independent intake and exhaust cam VVT as found on the 3.6 DOHC and Northstar engines equipped with it and some of the engines with independent cam variation utilize only one of the cams to vary timing usually the intake, leaving one in a fixed position while advancing or retarding the other. The major difference between the two being that you can not change the Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) on the cam in block design which limits how much you can improve engine performance over the rpm range by varying cam position, with one exception I'll mention later. If I recall correctly high overlap, narrow LSA provides higher rpm performance and wider LSA favors turbocharged engines for example.
Generally it is probably easiest to set up the camshaft(s) so that it optimizes the engine for idle and low end performance and then vary the cam from that point to optimize high end performance as engine rpm climbs. By setting the cam up for most efficient low end performance instead of a happy medium, you end up with much better fuel emissions which ultimately allowed for elimination of the EGR valve.
GM apparently built the 3500 and 3900 VVT engine with the cam advanced 10 degrees and from there it is hydraulically retarded to a position of about -15 degrees which for my reground camshaft is equivalent to 0 degrees advance or straight up although it is actually closer to -2 from what I observed on install when checking rotation of the cam module relative to #1 piston being at TDC, so the stock cam would probably be right at the start of intake valve lift at the fully retarded position or slightly advanced since my understanding that stock cams are usually advanced a few degrees for good idle or predicted chain stretch over normal use.
If I am wrong about GMs approach then performance will suffer however I was told to install the camshaft straight up by Delta and that if it was retarded a little which it is, it should do more good than harm.
The exception, God as my witness I actually thought of what you are about to see in the video two days ago and before I knew it even existed though I speculated someone had thought of it. Cam in block variation similar to fully indepent. I believe it is semi because of the limitations of the design considering trying to achieve the exact same versatility as dual overhead cams would be very complicated. None the less it demonstrates the ability to change the LSA via a single camshaft;
imagine that cam, two seperate exhaust systems controlled by those QTP electronic valves, an ecm that can define boost or not, and a seperate ram tube for non boost air deliver.....
i know its pipe dreaming but imagine it like a turbo on, turbo off switch on the dash...
I'll be updating soon, I'm installing additional gauges and planning for a tunning session on the fly tomorrow. I still haven't straightened out the alternator yet. I installed the replacement but it appears to be working although there is nothing connected to the plug to turn it on. With key on engine off the voltmeter reads about 12 volts, with the engine running the voltmeter reads about 13.5 - 14 volts and unless I'm missing something it's not suppose to show anything more than what it does before the engine is cranked and running without a voltage signal to turn it on.
I made some progress with the tune though I still have not actually performed a datalog yet during a test drive. As usual it needs more work but it's driveable. I had to ease into boost going as high as about 6 psi but since the water injection kit hasn't been installed yet and the tune is not up to par I didn't want to take it on the interstate and lean on it a little. At the moment I've reduced the boost timing and used 93 octane but I would still need a datalog during a load run to confirm no detonation. Once the water injection kit is installed I'll bump the timing up to stock settings.
I've had a little difficulty with TunerproRT so I upgraded Tunercat to the RT version to give it a try since I've had more success with it.
As it stands the cam is definately biased towards high end and once the tune is much better I'll drop down to the smaller turbine housings to speed up boost onset, currently I'm running .63 housings so the .48 should give me more bottom end and still not choke the engine up top.
I'll also be looking into different mufflers in the future.
ive got the flowtech afterburner...ive had a good number of backfires and never blown it up. i even left the torch pumping into the pipe un-lit, and sparked it to cut some pipe and had a huge fireball shoot out, with an explosion that sounded like a sonic boom....and yet its still intact. it has a different sound than flowmasters and glasspacks. i think it sounds unique.
anyways, good progress. im taking mine to indiana and dropping it off with darth while im getting re-outfitted for the navy. after that, im going to learn how to tune my self. maybe next year ill slap a masive turbo on there and make it a fast fiero. or maybe a bottle (im partial to nitrous)......
have you tested temps for where your coils are located? i had a bad issue with my 88z24 having the coils close to the exhaust. it was that way from the factory, but they would crap out all the time from the heat. ive moved them to inside of the trunk on the fiero. they stay protected from weather and heat.
and a forewarning about air filters....they will get trashed fast being in the engine bay area, and under the decklid vents.....mine get about 300 miles before they need a cleaning. sux ass
The coils don't touch the firewall and the exhaust manifold is partially heat wrapped and has heat shields but I'll be mindful of the heat concern. I have dual exhaust and no room for the 40 series mufflers.
So far switching to TunercatRT has helped quite a bit. For those using TunerproRT and TGP 8F code I was resently informed that the Gal/hr and flow per/single pulse values do not work as far as adjusting fuel quantity with larger injectors is concerned. That leaves only the BPC vs EGR constant for injector sizing.
Tunercat has an additional BPC under constants that does work and I've been making headway with it.
During the most resent test drive performance has really picked up and on a first to second gear shift the tires chirped, something the previous engine never did. I ran a datalog during the test drive and registered about 7psi boost a couple of times and noted no detonation anywhere during the run. It appears that although there is a full 1 point increase in compression ratio over the stock TGP 3.1, the stock spark table may not be aggressive enough for the 3900 which stands to reason given it is rated for 87 octane at 9.8:1 compression. I've bumped timing up about 2 degrees and will install the water injection kit.
It is still running rich although improving. I was concerned that maybe I had over cammed the engine to have any bottom end but the last test run has nearly squashed that idea.
I'm also going to install the smaller turbine housings for a quicker spool to see if that combined with the timing advance will lay any cam concerns to rest.
Here are the new parts needed to restore the slacking turbo to like new condition, the balanced wheel is a .60 along with a water cooled center section for $105 shipped, not bad at all. The initial rebuild had to much bearing play and turned out to be a worn bearing housing and at $50 for a new one I figured why bother having the old one over bored.
When done I will have dropped down from twin .60 cold/.63 hot to .60 cold/.48 hot side turbos. One is already new, the .48 turbine housings are good to about 475 hp so I should have gone with them from the start, I doubt I'll be pushing 400 hp so it's a good move. Hope to have some more definitive video of performance potential soon.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 05-04-2008).]
The last test drive was much better and still suggestive of the spark table needing to be a little more aggressive, I added about 2 more degrees but didn't datalog to check for detonation this time since the 93 should be good enough for 7psi. Running on 93 octane may have a lot more to do with it at the moment not having detonation. It barely saw 7psi under full boost so hopefully it's efficient enough to run 7psi on 87 octane which will leave a lot of room for higher boost eventually 12 psi which should really make the 1-2 shift special.
So far that test drive was with no intercooling or water injection, and a maximum boost of barely 7 psi actually less considering the datalog did not show boost reach 150 kpa. The smaller turbine housings, water injection, increased boost and tuning should put it about where I would like to have it.
I have to take a moment to bring attention to the fact that the stock compression for this engine is 9.8:1. There have been many debates and arguments about needing to run low compression with turbos here in the past. You should run as high a compression as the boost level you intend to run will allow. In my case once water injection is installed 14 psi with pump gas should not be a problem.
There is also a possibility the oil jets for the pistons are helping also because oil temps are running on what to me is the high side at just over 220 suggesting additional heat being absorbed from the pistons, at some point I'll get more air to the oil cooler.
Looks awesome man. In the vid are you taking it to red line? Looks like you have a very quick 0-60
I hadn't really thought about it but at just over 6000 rpm I should be at 60 mph in 2nd. I have the rev limit set at 6500 and I have datalogged about 6300.
It's doing well but there is a lot more fine tuning to be done to get the offline starts just right.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 05-04-2008).]
It's going to be a few months but the next step in addition to finishing the tune is dropping the intake air temperature as can be seen in the datalog to be way to high in degrees celsius or 214 F, currently there is no detonation at 7 psi and 9.8:1 compression on pump gas so I'm sure there is a lot more to gain once the air temperature is cooled down a bit at the same boost level. Currently I'm just not running enough boost to get up in the higher efficiency range and am running around the 55-60% island on the compressor map.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 10-31-2008).]
Originally posted by merlot566jka: turn up the boost! cool down that charge. im too lazy to look, but are you running any IC? maybe air to water will work? dunno, its getting cramped in that engine bay! looking good tho. 128 and 128.... im impressed
Good to see you still have the bug, actually when I'm able to return home to work on it I intend to install an intercooler and water/meth. The INT & BLM are both forced into 128 during wide open throttle if I remember correctly however my AFR meter showed the mix was right on the mark under boost.
man there is so much more i need to learn about tuning and what is being displayed in Tunerpro RT. once i get this new fuel pump to my front porch and into the fiero, im going to even more addicted as i drive it. carefully. and have so many questions and wanting to learn more. im going to need to keep notes of everything. i need to get one of those green log books we use on watch.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp to the wheels
Finally made it home to finish up. Before starting the major "surgery" I decided to get the wiring upgrade out of the way. I'm switching to Code 59 which is 3 Bar Syclone/Typhoon code adapted for use with DIS ignition in the 730 and simular ECMs. I started by removing the harness firewall mounting bulkhead, separating the wires, cutting off the plug ends and labeling the wires. I then proceeded to pin blank ECM plugs which made it easier to group the wires so that I can install the harness in the car and then trim the wires to the appropriate length before soldering the plugs back on. It should result in a much cleaner harness than the current harness pinned for the Turbo Grand Prix 8F code. The wiring is different between the two codes.
As for the front mount intercooler, It needs about 3 inches of height reduction, however I still plan to install it anyway after the more important upgrades are performed and purchase a more appropriately sized intercooler later. It rests about 6 inches above the ground.
Pending upgrades:
Headers to replace the cast iron manifolds. Upgrade from 2.125" dual exhaust to 2.25" exhaust External Walbro fuel pump to compliment the in tank Walbro fuel pump. Mallory 30-100 psi adjustable by-pass fuel pressure regulator to replace the hacked OE regulator for use with the returnless fuel rail. Change from solid mounts to poly mounts. Replacing 30 lb/hr injectors with 62 lb/hr injectors. Restoring VVT to normal position and activating to full retard at 3500 rpm to recover bottom end performance and better vacuum @ idle.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 10-24-2008).]
Excellent project. Congrats for successfuly completing the first 3900 V6 Fiero swap. As for the sy/ty ECM code there is tons of info on that program online that you can use but you will be tuning for higher RPM horsepwer in a different range than the 4.3L.
------------------ 87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: As for the sy/ty ECM code there is tons of info on that program online that you can use but you will be tuning for higher RPM horsepwer in a different range than the 4.3L.
Tuning is tuning, Code59 has an Excel spreadsheet program to help with the tuning process after entering a datalog, as well as wide band O2 use directly through the 730 ECM. I'll be tunning with the camshaft fully advanced first so efficiency wise it will be in a lower rpm range after which I'll start activating the VVT module for high rpm tuning.
I got a little behind helping someone out with brake repairs. I did get the flanges fixed in place in the car and then transferred to the bare block with heads in place. I got one bank started and all was going well until I accidently bumped the wire feed dial on the welder up about 2 points turning my bead into a spatter that made a metal knot that will have to be removed and rewelded.
The stub runner on cylinder #6 and the reduced smooth transition that will be present on completion should still flow very well compared to the previous exhaust system because I'm using 1.75" 14 ga pipe, the exhaust ports are about 1.5".
The wiring is coming along okay and will be much neater when it's completed since wires are being cut to fit.
your running the 7730 arent you joseph? i cant tell from that picture. i made my C500 and ECM harness seperate from eachother. there was just one wire connecting the two on the DIS cables. made that one wire into a single plug wire and made my engine bay much cleaner.
what are you going to do for your intake tubing? ive been looking around for intake couplers and found what i need. now i just need a decent intake pipe.
your running the 7730 arent you joseph? i cant tell from that picture. i made my C500 and ECM harness seperate from eachother. there was just one wire connecting the two on the DIS cables. made that one wire into a single plug wire and made my engine bay much cleaner.
what are you going to do for your intake tubing? ive been looking around for intake couplers and found what i need. now i just need a decent intake pipe.
Since I changed my wiring harness to run Code59 I can use a 749 and 730 ecm.
I'm waiting until the exhaust is completed before I finish the wiring harness.
The exhaust is nearly complete and partially painted. If I can't find gaskets for the wastegates I'll probably have the remain open vent instead of feeding back into the exhaust since welding the return flanges up will make for a rigid fit and unless the gasket is very thin I will have to make sure I use a gasket everytime or the additional space may prevent a flush fit when used without one. The gaskets are pretty much one time use and even when clamped down for a trial fit without running the engine they some how manage to stick to the flange surfaces making it difficult to avoid damaging them before you actually put them to use.
I'll be taking a break for a couple of weeks. Building the headers, new harness for the Code59 3 Bar MAP use and replacing the solid mounts took a lot more time than I anticipated, so I'm about 3 patient days from completion, one for the harness, one to finish the exhaust and then the start and test drive. I am very pleased with how it is looking so far, especially the headers and mounts;
I have 62 lb/hr injectors and a 30-100 psi adjustable bypass fuel pressure regulator which I would have used from the start had I been aware of its existance since it is perfect for use with a returnless fuel rail and a second Walbro pump, external to insure the engine will likely never stop running as a result of a pump failure.
Rear of front trans mount
Rear trans mount
Engine mount
Headers, 14 Ga mild steel 1 3/4" tubing for lots of breathing room, high temp paint, shielded with aluminum sheet metal and foil and then wrapped to reduce corrosion risk from wet heat wrap.
I have been in touch with someone who is using Code59 and was assured that it is much easier to work with than the 8F Tubro Grand Prix code which I had made pretty good progress with. Code 59 has a nice format across the major tables for tuning including an Excel spread sheet program to copy and paste a datalog in and have a projected tune produced.
I restored the VVT module to stock specs which is full advance on start up and will use the auxillary terminal on my wideband O2 logger to activate it at about 3000 rpm. The module is basically an electromagnet and should be able to handle prolonged activation as well or better than a relay some of which run continuously while the car is being driven. If I had thought of that from the start I could have saved myself the trouble of having to remove the timing cover for this process. The balancer bolt is not to be reused since the crank gear is loose fit and can be removed by hand so if the bolt torque fails there is a risk of stripping the key, slipping the timing gear and damaging the valves.
Since my cam is reground for high end performance on an engine already cammed for a 6000 rpm peak hp point, I lost a lot of bottom end starting with the cam fully retarded and that was evident by my low idle vacuum of barely 13 inches of vacuum. I really didn't need to do anything to the cam due to the VVT.
Since the simulator only goes down to 2000 rpm, you can't see the full range of difference between the off idle response where the curves cross but it appears it is quite significant. The smooth curve represents full advance and the dotted curve full retard on 7 psi of boost. I'm setting the retard point a little past the torque intersection and if I feel a brief dip in power I"ll set it earlier and visa-versa.
Another shot at finishing this dream is comming around, I never thought for one moment it would take more than a month let alone more than a year to find the time to finish. It's currently pending finishing the harness repinned and cleaned up for use with Code59 and 3 Bar MAP sensor currently about 70% complete and finishing up the intake and exhaust plumbing which I will not do until after I get the engine started.
I'm serious about the front mount intercooler and have purchased a more practical unit than the previous at 27x6x3.5;
I've also had custom wrist pin bushings made to fit the LS1 pistons to the stock rods for when I build the fully forged engine. I contemplated the offset grind and use of premium forged chevy rods but at the moment feel the stock powder metal rods may hold up to 600 hp based on some reading I've done along with the shaving of more than 50 grams off each piston assymbly with the piston change. I did find rods that were about 45 grams lighter than stock but don't feel at this point it's worth the additional ~$400 or more to purchase and prep them for use. I really want to finish it this time and will work hard at it in hopes of even being able to get it to the dyno.
This is much better than the previous harness installed initially, it almost looks like it's not wired yet. The oil feed to the turbos has been installed if you look closely.
The mufflers sound good for the short time the engine has run so far, despite being straigth through they are remarkably quiet. I ordered silencers just in case, the picture with them on the car was taken at night, they look good on the car.
The front mount intercooler quest is comming right along although I diverted from my plan to get the engine running fully before installing. It may result in my not being able to take it back with me right away but as long as I get a good test drive and some datalogs that will be okay. The pipes passed the test fit inside the rocker panel skirt.
