Deleted per Cliffw's request.

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very helpful
Best i ever seen
You're terrific man
Thanks for all the Fieros owners

[This message has been edited by Robert 2 (edited 03-10-2012).]

Friggen' INCREDIBLE!!!! Thank you. Big plus for this!

Cliff, we really, really, really need stickies or a section devoted to stuff like this. This is invaluable information.

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1986 SE 350 V8

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: (shoot new picture)

HA i have so been there.

but really, you make this look easy.
i've done this one or twice. i think i'll just pay you.

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: HA i have so been there. but really, you make this look easy. i've done this one or twice. i think i'll just pay you.

X2--I had Jazz drive over a few years ago and reapir a few columns for me, one that was in my DD and got loose fast. He made it look very easy but I can tell you there are alot of parts in there. If I need to have it done again, you better beilieve I will just shell out the money for James to do it.

A plus for you JazzMan excellent write up.
It required a lot of forethought. Thanks for sharing it.
I have bookmarked this for future reference

Nice write-up.

Holy Cow! that was an in depth write up. You have been promoted to chief column technician and now have my aproval to work on anything cylindrical, or even a little bit round on one side.

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: Cliff, we really, really, really need stickies or a section devoted to stuff like this. This is invaluable information.

I agree. Write-ups like this should really be gathered together in one place, and not get dropped into the archives.

Great job Jazzman

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

A++++

Cliff has got to give us a repository for this stuff. It might take a few people to decide what goes in but we have to organize these threads better. This one will wind up in the archives with no pictures eventually.

Terry

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

I've only disassembled a tilt steering column once to fix a wobble problem and it was about a 2 hour job. Not all that difficult but you need to remove each part, note its location and position carefully and save them in a magnetic pan so they don't get lost. The parts only fit in one way so there is little chance for error, but there's just so many parts to fit and place. I hope not to be doing this job again anytime soon. Good post, excellent pics and instruction. However, a word to the wise; steering column repair should only be attempted by those mechanically competant and if I might add GREAT ARTICLE!!!

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87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 01-01-2009).]

Nice work.

Some notes for reference...

The cap for the big tilt spring is fairly soft. If someone can't turn it, they probably haven't pushed it down far enough to clear. (Or pushed so far it's binding.) Don't force it or the hole will strip out.

It is tempting to pry or use a slide hammer to remove the tilt pivots. Be very careful if you try that. If they are stuck tight it is possible to break the casting that way. There are several ways to make a puller if you can't find the Lisle or other products at your local stores.

See how the anchor plate for the tilt assembly just hooks into the top of the column? That fairly weak connection is part of why the screws come loose. Even if you locktite the screws, avoid allowing the tilt to slam and don't use the steering wheel as a grab bar to enter/exit the vehicle. The assembly can come loose if it's abused just from flexing and damage to the anchor plate and column tube.

Someone once posted about the steering wheel falling down. Unless there is a major problem in the tilt system, the only way it can move w/o using the lever is someone is pulling/pushing pretty hard on the steering wheel. The latch will slip under high load. Every one I've seen does this so I have to think it was intentionally made to do so. Maybe to allow the steering wheel some float in a wreck. No sure idea but they are all built that way.

If you are having trouble with the ignition switch functions, and you've already adjusted/replaced the switch, the problem could be wear in one or more of the linkage parts shown above. The rack gear can often be found thru MotorMite's catalog and is fairly common at many parts stores. Be warned tho that such parts are usually not in the store's computer system as part of vehicle searches. You'll have to check store racks and/or paper catalogs.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

That was AWESOME!

This is probably a record for # of pics in a single post... I counted (or miscounted) 141...

A friggen + man. sweet wright up. I do like the "shop towls" back drop. nice touch, works well with the colors of the column parts.



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Hey Jazz, when I lift up on my steering wheel there is a little play in there. Not pulling it straight out, but lifting it up. Is that normal? Otherwise it feels okay.

Hmmmm, James, you say that the key interlock is installed on the manual transmission columns. My son's '86 SE has one on his auto also. Do we have a car that has had a change-over?

"Insert the ball assembly into the stub shaft sideways, then rotate ninety degrees to lock it into place:"
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... so THAT'S how you get it back in!


Thanks for creating this thread... VERY informative!

Jazzman, this is a great write-up.. When you get the corrections listed, please let me know.

For posterity, I have posted this at the new Minnesota Fieros Forever site in the Tech Articles. If this is not OK with you, let me know, and I can remove it.

MFF Tech Articles

WOW! Awesome thread. I have added it to my favorites and given you a plus. I must say though, that first pic of all the parts reminds me of a reoccurring dream that ends with me waking up in a cold sweat.

Jim

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: No problem as long as it is all credited to me. JazzMan

Yup. Specifically credited to you. It even says your name :P

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

Very Nice write been in a cpl of these similar columns I wish I had this kinda details when I was I hate taking a column apart. Will your next time i do SUPER write up

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: Actually, under the headline it says "Written by Chris". Someone might get confused and think that's the case. Also, you should provide a link to this page so that people can get the latest version, I've been updating and editing it regularly and will for a few more days until it's as good as I can get it. JazzMan

Yeah, That "Written by Chris" is the software used to post an article. The first line in the article credits you. I will post an update link as well. I just felt it good to archive your post off-site for posterity and so that it won't disappear.

I will get it all up to date in the near future.

quote Originally posted by JohnF: Hmmmm, James, you say that the key interlock is installed on the manual transmission columns. My son's '86 SE has one on his auto also. Do we have a car that has had a change-over?

If you have a lock lever next to the key in an automatic, someone changed the column with the wrong one. The interlock for the automatic uses a cable between the ignition switch and the shifter that unlocks in park. There are more notes on how that works in my cave tho I don't have pictures nearly as good as these.

Because of how the AT interlock works... If the cable is connected you'd have to put it in park and hit the lever to remove the key. While that could be annoying... If the cable is not connected to the ignition switch properly you've got a fairly serious safety problem. All it takes is leaving the trans unlocked just once to have a big legal problem from a run away car.

Sweet thread, this helps answer a lot of questions I had.

Is there a source for the various internals for this column? Does a part # list exist?

Lets say I needed to find a "high beam follower" for example, just wondering if there are alternatives to digging one out of the yards.

Great writeup and photography again! Amazing clarity on the photos, are you using a tripod? Light stands?

One suggestion; reduce the width of the second photo to 800 pixels.

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

I considered starting a new thread for this, but this seems to be the place to ask...

My wiper fluid pump is not functioning. I bought a new pump and the fuse is good. The only other area I think might be suspect would be the switch inside the column. When I press the little paddle on the stalk forward, the wipers will swipe a few times as they should, but no pump activity. Could the switch be bad? Is there a relay I need to check?

I did check the 2 relays that are right next to the Wiper fluid reservoir. I know one of them is for the blower fan, not sure what the other is for. I swapped them and the blower works either way, so I assume both relays are good.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike

Someone has too much spare time =))

Awesome idea!!! this should help quite a few people =D

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

Awesome documentation! I rebuilt my own steering column without this, but I'm sure it will be of great help to others!

And those pics of the "bolting plate" and the blue glove I find a bit disturbing....

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 11-22-2011).]

just make sure both hands are not on your shoulders at the same time.