The clutch disk doesn't appear to have worn much. As for the flywheel and pressure plate.... I need to get a feeler gauge in there.
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Originally posted by Justinbart: I measured .022" for the flyweel wear and .035" for the pressure plate. The pressure plate mostly tapers down towards the outside. Yeah, this clutch is a little harsh.
Did you check your new pressure plate for flatness? My Centerforce clutches both showed up that much out of flat NIB. I called and asked and was told they do that deliberately so that thermal expansion causes it to flatten out when it's being abused and getting hot.
They were a bit too long. I had 1" bolts before but also used a lock washer and it worked. I used a hack saw to take about 1/8" off without getting it hot. Next size down is 0.750"
They were a bit too long. I had 1" bolts before but also used a lock washer and it worked. I used a hack saw to take about 1/8" off without getting it hot. Next size down is 0.750"
Oh yeah, I remember going around that mulberry bush now...
Crazy GM using engrish bolts on a metric-era engine.
I'd like to get specific flywheel bolts for the Northstar. I've been using class 12.9 hex heads with the stock TTY procedure. I've been thinking about drilling out the holes in my new crankshaft so I can have reusable 10mm (or 3/8) bolts. It's been a few years since I talked to ARP about 8mm flywheel bolts... maybe they have something now.
Will, I too would love to drill out this damn crank and go to a larger bolt. The ecotec guys have a 10mm x 1.0 flywheel bolt and they can get away using the ARP bolts for a modular ford 4.6 or 5.4, yet here we are with this high torque 3800 and tiny 5/16".
I have about 650 miles on the new clutch now. It squeals like a pig whenever I'm letting the clutch out. It's much more difficult to drive now. I stall often or it will catch me off guard and my car will buck like a bull. With the super clamp pressure plate it's much more like an on off switch. It has never slipped on full power where's the last one would slip unless everything was hot. Even then sometimes it wouldn't hold.
Just put on a new set of nt555r drag radials on the rear.
A month or so ago I put all new poly bushings in the 88 cradle.
I really liked how the front engine mount on "Formula's" car turned out so I added a mount to mine. Hopefully this and the bushings will help with the wheel hop.
I had that squealing problem with the Spec stage 3 I used when I first put my 3800 in. I didn't have that problem initially, it just started one day and wouldn't go away and the clutch started acting like an on off switch. I couldn't slip the clutch for nothing when trying to take off from a dead stop, it just grabbed. I replaced all the hydraulics and it still didn't get any better. I finally ended up just swapping it out for a 3+ with the full face disc and that solved the problem. I wanted people to admire my car because it is unique not because it was making some gawd awful noise. -Jason
Something interesting that I just thought of. I've had my car a little over 130 a few times and my head lights don't pop up anymore. I still have the snow dam I made for ice racing in. My car still has no problem keeping cool even on days in the mid 80's. The only air getting in is from the two small holes in the GT bumper. I may have to make something a little more permanent out of aluminum.
Always a good idea to post online RACING on a public street and then show a close up of your plates a couple of post later! Might want to rethink - just sayin.
Always a good idea to post online RACING on a public street and then show a close up of your plates a couple of post later! Might want to rethink - just sayin.
I thought I recognized the Baldwin Road exit sign that leads to the Moon Palace resort in Cancun. What ever you do, don't use the water in the radiator - it will just explode out of the bottom of the radiator in about an hour
Wait... Is that a turbo, and a supercharger I see? I haven't seen a setup like that since lancia.
You've been here how long and always post the dumbest questions imaginable that could be answered in less than a minute if you took the time to search.
But of course he's twincharged and like you goes around revving his 3800 to 7500rpm while racing civics while getting huge downforce from his scrap steel attached "drag wing".
Enkei RPF1 17x8 45mm (35mm when you add the grand am brake rotor upgrade) on the front. 17x9 45mm on the back. I love them so far. I switched over the 245/45R17 nt555r drag radial from my 7" rim and now it's a bit stretched. I'm going to get a 275/40R17 NT05R drag radial next summer when these are toast. I got a new pair of 235/45R17 Potenza Re-11A that went on the fronts. When I autocross i'm going to put on my old pair of wheels that has the 225/45R17 Re-11A on so i'll have 4 good autox tires. The drag radials weren't cutting it. This was the main reason for getting new set of wheels. They are also 10lbs lighter per wheel weighing in at 16lbs!. Eventually I would like to get another pair of 17x8's for when I autox or don't need the drag radials on the rear.
Buuutt, I would rather have that then it not hold the power. 
What ever you do, don't use the water in the radiator - it will just explode out of the bottom of the radiator in about an hour
