I like the L26 because of the higher compression and the aluminum intake.
Any n/a 3800 inake, lower and upper pair, will work. If you stay with the supercharged heads, then you will need to plug the injectors bungs on the intakes since there will be holes in the head for them. ZZP sells an insert to make the runners shorter and has been proven to make more power through the power curve. I have a home made version of that. Its called a HV3.
Fierox intake is junk, stock n/a flows better. (FACT lol)
Here is a test that zzp did with my grand prix. Fierox was running a restrictive version of "m90 with blockoff".
In terms of exhaust... Its really a matter of preference. I am running a "stainless" plog with a stock rear manifold, and making 550+whp. If you can get ahold of a stainless one, or put 3lbs of weld into a steel one from zzp, you should be all set assuming you have something custom for the rear/crossover (basically just what we did with ours mounting on the rear stock manifold).
In terms of making power in the motor... I would probably not design a turbo system around a L26/L36. They work, and they work great (Justin will argue better)... but you may find some more durability in the supercharged motors. The cam/springs/etc are all you really need past a factory stock motor. Advanced head work and such is a 600+whp requirement... Although 500+whp is not the easiest goal on pump 93 octane without a turbo system with great synergy / professional tuning / etc.
I have the 3800sc series II, I just wonder what to do about the intake. Go with the L36 intake for upper and lower. Or use the option of Blocking off the Sc, could work but I would rather have a "cleaner" install. Unless I use the supercharger also, but I know that's a waste for the most part.
Unless I can come up with something custom made = more money. I will just use the stock 3800 headers. I will spend $300 on Headers, but none of this $750 bs, for ones that crack anyways.
Help me get some of this straight. I already have a series II supercharged engine. I will take off the SC (Anyone want a ported and chromed SC, it's really nice) and put the L36 intake on.
Get some 1.9 rockers and 130# valve springs. Buy the HV3 and plug the injector bungs.
Use stock manifolds and then go with a 3inch exhaust into a flowmaster 44 muffler. At the y pipe have a T3 flange made. Purchase a Holsett HX35 VGT Turbo (sweet!) And squeeze in an intercooler somehow.
What about a throttle body? Stock, or LS1, Northstar? Have I covered everything pretty well.
I have the 3800sc series II, I just wonder what to do about the intake. Go with the L36 intake for upper and lower. Or use the option of Blocking off the Sc, could work but I would rather have a "cleaner" install. Unless I use the supercharger also, but I know that's a waste for the most part.
Unless I can come up with something custom made = more money. I will just use the stock 3800 headers. I will spend $300 on Headers, but none of this $750 bs, for ones that crack anyways.
Go with the L26 upper intake as it looks better and should hold up much better than the L36..>Blocking off the SC just doesnt looks great but does work to a certain point. Use stock manifolds like DH did and call it a day....
Help me get some of this straight. I already have a series II supercharged engine. I will take off the SC (Anyone want a ported and chromed SC, it's really nice) and put the L36 intake on.
Get some 1.9 rockers and 130# valve springs. Buy the HV3 and plug the injector bungs.
Use stock manifolds and then go with a 3inch exhaust into a flowmaster 44 muffler. At the y pipe have a T3 flange made. Purchase a Holsett HX35 VGT Turbo (sweet!) And squeeze in an intercooler somehow.
What about a throttle body? Stock, or LS1, Northstar? Have I covered everything pretty well.
If you get 130# valve springs you will have a ticking time bomb unless you get a double roller timing chain. If you do that then you will see better results with a turbo cam that requires those springs. If just decide you want the 1.9 modified stock rockers then you can get away with just "yellow 90#" or "comp 105's" with a stock timing chain.
Stock manifolds should be ok, just make a provision for the waste gate somewhere, in the cross over usually works the best. I don't know what you mean by a t3 flange on the Y pipe. Like how I did it? (yes that's fine) You won't need much of a muffler if any. The turbo muffles the noise right down. Its very important for the gasses to leave the turbo as easily as possible. So maybe work in a muffler after its all done if you think it needs to be quieter.
I don't believe Holset makes a Hx35 with VGT. If you are looking into getting a Hx35 there are a few versions that are better than others. I think you want the newer one and it has 7 blades on the inducer. Also look into a 6 blade hx40. Or you could try your chances on some "eBay turbos". The price on my Holset he351ve (vgt) has went up sadly so its not as enticing now for a shade tree build.
Stock throttle body will work fine ('99 style is best). If you use the L26 Aluminum intake, it will require an adapter since the drive by wire throttle body is a 4 bolt. I don't think the l36 manifold will need any modification for the TB except to plug the pcv system.
With the L26 intake, will it bolt up to the lower manifold of the Supercharged engine? Or do I need an L36 lower manifold and then buy an L26 intake? I ask now so I don't buy anything I don't.
Thanks for the input on the throttle body. I will figure out what to do about the springs when the time comes. Maybe I will go double roller if I decide to change the cam before I install anything. Depends on cost.
Oh yeah and i forgot. I will go with the He351ve Holsett as they spool faster from my understanding.
[This message has been edited by blkpearl (edited 12-28-2010).]
With the L26 intake, will it bolt up to the lower manifold of the Supercharged engine? Or do I need an L36 lower manifold and then buy an L26 intake? I ask now so I don't buy anything I don't.
Thanks for the input on the throttle body. I will figure out what to do about the springs when the time comes. Maybe I will go double roller if I decide to change the cam before I install anything. Depends on cost.
Oh yeah and i forgot. I will go with the He351ve Holsett as they spool faster from my understanding.
I agree with Justin as well, make sure you are using a matched pair of upper and lower intake manifolds.
IMHO, I wouldn't consider using any stock FWD L36 intake setup in a boosted application. GM had trouble with the plastic upper plenums on these intakes cracking in stock applications, so I wouldn't want to subject it to higher temperatures and pressures. I also wouldn't run a gutted L67 blower housing and lower intake, this would effectively leave you with no intake runners which will hurt off-boost and especially low RPM performance.
If you must use a FWD type intake manifold, you can use the L26 upper and lower, and just get an adapter so you can run a cable-operated throttle body. However, using this intake will put the throttle body over the transmission which could interfere with your turbo if you plan on mounting it there. If you mount your turbo somewhere else, then obviously this won't be much of a problem. The L26 intake does have long runners which are great for low RPM and off-boost performance, but they could become a hindrance if you are trying to make maximum power in the mid to upper RPM ranges.
My intake of choice is the F-body RWD 3800 intake. It is also a 2-piece design like the FWD intakes, but it is designed with mid-length runners laid out more like a tunnel ram style intake. These medium length intake runners are a nice compromise between having no runners (gutted L67 intake setups) and having long intake runners (FWD L36 and L26 intake setups) and will give you the best rounded performance. Using the F-body intake on a Fiero will work but it does require some modifications...
•You’ll need to relocate the battery and remove the battery tray to make room for the induction piping and MAF sensor. However, with the throttle body now on the right side of the engine, this will allow more room for routing of the piping to run an intercooler down in front of the cradle (be that air-to-air or water-to-air, your choice) instead of having to mount the intercooler in the trunk or some other place you don't really have room for.
•You’ll need to slightly notch the right side deck lid hinge at the bottom to clear the thermostat housing and upper radiator hose on the F-body intake. You’ll also need to remove the deck lid support spring on that side to clear this intake, but you can use one of Rodney Dickman’s deck lid support strut kits to hold your deck lid open after you remove this spring.
•You’ll need to run a custom upper radiator hose (piece something together). You’ll also need to run a modified throttle body or get and adapter plate so you can run a shorter throttle body that does not have the integral MAF sensor. The stock integral MAF sensor used on these intakes does not like to see boost pressure, at least none of the ones I've tried seem to like it. I get much better (and more stable) operation using an “external” MAF like what was used on the LT1s and LS1s. Mount this MAF sensor as close to the throttle body as possible to maximize throttle response.
Concerning the PCV system, the PCV system actually consists of 2 parts. The PCV valve is basically a one-way check valve with a flow limiter. It permits a measured (limited) amount of flow out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold during conditions where vacuum is present in the intake manifold. A properly functioning PCV valve will block boost pressure from entering the crankcase when boost is present in the intake manifold. The PCV system needs a crankcase breather in order to work properly. On L67 and L36 intakes, the breather passage is routed to the throttle body so it can draw fresh, filtered air in from the induction stream. The problem with this setup is if you add boost via a turbo or external supercharger, boost pressure can enter the crankcase breather system. And you don't want to put boost into the crankcase because this can blow out seals. So if you plan on running any L67 or L36 intake (FWD or F-body), you'll need to block off the breather passage and run an external breather such as an open-element filter mounted on the oil fill cap. L32 and L26 intakes have breather passages that run to an external nipple on the upper manifold/SC housing so all you need to do if you are running one of those intakes is to either mount a filter directly onto those ports or connect a hose to it and run that to the induction piping somewhere between your air filter and turbo or external supercharger. Whatever you do, make sure the breather passage has access to FILTERED atmosphere.
The PCV/breather system is vital to the engine. It removes moisture and unburned fuel vapors from the crankcase, preventing them from building up to levels in the oil that can harm the engine. Not running a PCV/breather system can result in eventual engine damage due to lubrication breakdown.
-ryan
------------------ 7+ years on this same swap -- NO engine or transmission failures... Custom GM OBD1 & OBD2 Tuning | Engine Conversions & more | www.gmtuners.com
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 12-28-2010).]
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: My intake of choice is the F-body RWD 3800 intake. It is also a 2-piece design like the FWD intakes, but it is designed with mid-length runners laid out more like a tunnel ram style intake. These medium length intake runners are a nice compromise between having no runners (gutted L67 intake setups) and having long intake runners (FWD L36 and L26 intake setups) and will give you the best rounded performance. Using the F-body intake on a Fiero will work but it does require some modifications...
On L67 and L36 intakes, the breather passage is routed to the throttle body so it can draw fresh, filtered air in from the induction stream. The problem with this setup is if you add boost via a turbo or external supercharger, boost pressure can enter the crankcase breather system. And you don't want to put boost into the crankcase because this can blow out seals.
Can the F-body intake be installed "backwards" to put the throttle over the transmission?
Allowing boost pressure into the crankcase will also significantly hurt power, for the same reason that depressing crank case pressure below ambient via a dry-sump or crank-case evac system helps power.
GM had trouble with the plastic upper plenums on these intakes cracking in stock applications,
This was due to heat issues around the EGR. With an EGR delete, I have had no problems in the 10kish miles I have on my L36 upper with plenty of 20+psi runs. Many grand prix people have done this with no issues so far.
The factory PCV valve is very bad at holding boost out of the crankcase, and it makes for a pretty bad boost leak. There are a few PCV valves out there that you could incorperate if you are looking to run a PCV system to full effectiveness. I am running external PCV systems now to eliminate the issues with running complicated internal systems in terms of oil vapor control, and whatnot.
GM had trouble with the plastic upper plenums on these intakes cracking in stock applications,
This was due to heat issues around the EGR. With an EGR delete, I have had no problems in the 10kish miles I have on my L36 upper with plenty of 20+psi runs. Many grand prix people have done this with no issues so far.
The factory PCV valve is very bad at holding boost out of the crankcase, and it makes for a pretty bad boost leak. There are a few PCV valves out there that you could incorporate if you are looking to run a PCV system to full effectiveness. I am running external PCV systems now to eliminate the issues with running complicated internal systems in terms of oil vapor control, and whatnot.
This was due to heat issues around the EGR. With an EGR delete, I have had no problems in the 10kish miles I have on my L36 upper with plenty of 20+psi runs. Many grand prix people have done this with no issues so far.
I won't deny the EGR passage issue is what caused most of the cracking problems. But having said that, I don't think adding boost and more heat to it is a good idea either. Regardless, it still isn't a good design for boost from a performance standpoint.
quote
The factory PCV valve is very bad at holding boost out of the crankcase, and it makes for a pretty bad boost leak. There are a few PCV valves out there that you could incorperate if you are looking to run a PCV system to full effectiveness. I am running external PCV systems now to eliminate the issues with running complicated internal systems in terms of oil vapor control, and whatnot.
Maybe you ought to get a good PCV valve then, and not a used one from a junkyard. The new Delco ones I get from the dealer don't leak any boost into the crankcase (they effectively seal when boost is applied to them - as tested with shop air regulated down to nominal boost pressures).
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 12-29-2010).]
Can the F-body intake be installed "backwards" to put the throttle over the transmission?
Theoretically yes. But you might have a couple of issues. The 95-98 intakes have the TB angled off to the side a bit and it'll point the TB right at the strut tower in the Fiero if you turn it around on the engine so the TB faces the driver's side. I think the 99-02 upper intakes are shorter and have the TB facing straight off the intake (no angle) so it might work better (you'd need to use a different TB however because all 99-02 F-body 3800 intakes used fly-by-wire throttle bodies). The heater core outlet port in the lower intake will face the same way as the throttle body so that should be taken into consideration as well if you want to turn the intake around. The lower and upper intake castings also overhang out from the block a bit on the throttle body end so this may interfere with your exhaust crossover pipe if you plan on trying to use the stock one.
-ryan
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 12-29-2010).]
Just noticed a FWD 3800 engine in the boneyard while looking for a BCM, I sure feel better about applying pressure to an aluminum intake than to a GRP material, even if it would live.
Now I just need to decide not to bi-turbo and get rid of the supercharger. :-/
The L26 intake does have long runners which are great for low RPM and off-boost performance, but they could become a hindrance if you are trying to make maximum power in the mid to upper RPM ranges.
All of the turbo intakes I have used were modified with short runner intakes allowing for much better boost performance than both the blower case style designs, and the L36 RWD intake. THe RWD intake is not modifiable to a short runner design, and will always be inferior to either FWD intake.
All of the turbo intakes I have used were modified with short runner intakes allowing for much better boost performance than both the blower case style designs, and the L36 RWD intake. THe RWD intake is not modifiable to a short runner design, and will always be inferior to either FWD intake.
How do you know the RWD L36 intake design is inferior? Have you or someone else tested it, head-to-head, against what you've been using? If so, where are the dyno sheets? I would like to see some proof of your statements.
I would also like to see your FWD intake modifications, inside and out. Post them up if you have them.
How do you know the RWD L36 intake design is inferior? Have you or someone else tested it, head-to-head, against what you've been using? If so, where are the dyno sheets? I would like to see some proof of your statements.
I would also like to see your FWD intake modifications, inside and out. Post them up if you have them.
-ryan
A guy on CGP did the FWD vs RWD tests, and I never saw "proof" of it. It does make some obvious sense to me seeing how the runners are the same length between stock fwd and rwd intakes.
The modded upper intakes for the turbo setups here work the same between L26 and L36. Basically we just molded a hunk of silicone about an inch high that replaces the runners that go in stock. It is made so it is about half the height as the stock intake runner insert. I dont have pictures, but it is the same as a HV3 insert from zzp.
I posted the dyno graph of the stock fwd to modded fwd at the top of this page already. That was on my car at zzp.
[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 01-03-2011).]
A guy on CGP did the FWD vs RWD tests, and I never saw "proof" of it. It does make some obvious sense to me seeing how the runners are the same length between stock fwd and rwd intakes.
I guess I don't know enough about these manifolds, because I was under the impression--from looking at one on the car and from pictures--that it was set up more like an LT1 intake with extremely short runners, while the FWD intake was set up more like the LS1 intake with longer runners.
I guess I don't know enough about these manifolds, because I was under the impression--from looking at one on the car and from pictures--that it was set up more like an LT1 intake with extremely short runners, while the FWD intake was set up more like the LS1 intake with longer runners.
I think what he's saying about the FWD intakes having shorter runners takes into account pulling the runner inserts out of the FWD's upper plenum and running that HV3 (or like) insert installed on the lower intake he showed a picture of. This would give you shorter runners than the L36 RWD F-body intake. However, doing this will also give you a huge plenum volume area which can create other problems when boosting (ie: uneven air charge distribution between cylinders, for one).
The L36 RWD F-body intake would have slightly longer runners than DH's preferred L36 FWD setup, but I question whether his preferred setup would be superior in on and off boost performance vs. the F-body intake. I would really like to see some side-by-side dyno tests to back up his claims; rather than him just saying "a guy on ClubGP said..."
I think you may find intake plenum volume fairly similar between a HV3 and a RWD intake. The HV3 significantly decreases the intake plenum volume to the point where it is probably less than a RWD.
I think you may find intake plenum volume fairly similar between a HV3 and a RWD intake. The HV3 significantly decreases the intake plenum volume to the point where it is probably less than a RWD.
I seriously doubt it. The intake plenum area of the RWD intake looks to be much smaller than the total plenum area of a FWD intake after the runner inserts have been removed.
Next time I have both upper plenums sitting in the shop, I'll fill them up with water and compare the difference. But I'm certain the RWD plenum has less volume + it was designed like this. The FWD's plenum was designed to be run with the runner inserts installed...
Unless you fill the runner inserts so that no water enters the runners, you cannot measure plenum volume on a FWD intake. The hv3 also fills the lower part of the intake, reducing space in the plenum that is open with the stock insert. You could fill a RWD intake including the runners, and compare plenum and runner volume. If you have someone do the same with a hv3 installed, you could compare.
The hv3 was designed as a naturally aspirated mod, but has shown very good results on turbo cars as well. It is hv3, as this is the third generation, with improvements to each design. They have simplified installation and widened the powerband that the insert boosts with each change. Not to say something else wouldn't work better, but nothing else on the market has been developed and tested to this level.
The complexity of the differences between the 2 intakes would make a back to back comparison difficult without an external cooling system, and Intercooler piping to hook up. Would be alot easier on an engine dyno. It would be very interesting to see the differences between the 2, but I don't see anyone taking the time to do it.
------------------ 11.425 @115.60 Best 60' 1.543 seconds 3800 S/C 4T65E
[This message has been edited by LFiero67 (edited 01-05-2011).]
The FWD's plenum was designed to be run with the runner inserts installed...
A few people have claimed they like running without any runners at all, over the stock runners.
I dont think you quite know what a HV3 is or how it installs if you are comparing it to running with no inserts.. Again the HV3 reduces the intake volume by almost half, so I dont see where the confusion is. The RWD lim is also much more roomy than the straighforward FWD lim.
A few people have claimed they like running without any runners at all, over the stock runners.
I dont think you quite know what a HV3 is or how it installs if you are comparing it to running with no inserts.. Again the HV3 reduces the intake volume by almost half, so I dont see where the confusion is. The RWD lim is also much more roomy than the straighforward FWD lim.
I'd appreciate it if you didn't assume what I know and what I don't know.
I do know what the ZZP HV3 insert is and no it does not take up 1/2 the plenum volume like you claim it does. Perhaps your copy of their product is different. In either case, do the volume test yourself and show/post the results here to back your claims.
The bottom line, in my opinion, is the FWD L36 intake is a crappy design built out of plastic. I think it looks like crap on the engine and in the car too compared to the F-body intake. At least the all-aluminum L26 intake looks better on the outside.
I don't quite understand what you are saying about the RWD (F-body L36) lower intake manifold. Your statement did not make any sense as you worded it. The F-body lower intake does have slightly longer runners than the L26 or L36 lower intakes (plenums and runner inserts excluded). Is this what you meant by the F-body LIM's are more "roomy"? Runner length and cross-sectional area impacts engine performance and the power band. Shorter runners don't make an intake perform better for ALL applications. Too short of runners will result in poor engine performance at lower RPMs and off-boost. Too long of runners will offer superior off-boost and lower RPM performance but can choke off on-boost and upper RPM performance. A happy balance in length and cross-sectional area must be found to perform optimally for the given application.
So what runner length is the best? That depends on the application. For a full-out race car running 10's or faster, maybe you want short runners. But for a street-driven brawler running 11's, a longer runner intake might be better. It just depends on what the application calls for. The F-body L36 intake has proven to work very well in the few turbo applications that I know of that have been built using it: My personal Fiero, AkursedX's Fiero, and the TripleEdgePerformance built Grand National.
From a turbocharged performance standpoint, I disagree that the FWD L36/L26 intakes outperform the L36 F-body intake in all aspects of engine operation (on and off boost); with or without factory runners or HV3 inserts in all applications. If you can provide me with well-documented dyno proof/testing that says otherwise, I'll stand corrected.
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 01-07-2011).]
I think you guys need to agree to disagree. No dyno results will ever be done because its not that big of a deal. I believe the more important detail is that they can offer two different throttle body locations. There isn't very many engines that can use two (actually three) totally different intakes to face the TB to the left or right.
Too short of runners will result in poor engine performance at lower RPMs and off-boost.
LT1 has essentially no intake runners, yet has a flat torque curve from idle to a bit over 4000 RPM. It actually makes more torque below 2000 RPM than an LS1.
I posted the best "back to back intake comparison" you are going to get... take it or leave it.
I think it is foolish to try to "justify" your intake, on the slight possibility it makes .01% more horsepower, or try to argue the "off boost performance" of it.
LT1 has essentially no intake runners, yet has a flat torque curve from idle to a bit over 4000 RPM. It actually makes more torque below 2000 RPM than an LS1.
Comparing the LS1 with an LT1 is like comparing apples to oranges. The LS1 has a totally different design: heads, block; basically everything. A more fair comparison would be of the torque curves between a TPI 350 and an LT1. But the TPI intake was designed for a 305 cube engine which is why it chokes the performance of the 350 in the upper RPM ranges.
I posted the best "back to back intake comparison" you are going to get... take it or leave it.
I think it is foolish to try to "justify" your intake, on the slight possibility it makes .01% more horsepower, or try to argue the "off boost performance" of it.
I think it's foolish that your view is so narrow. It isn't just about raw speed. If I wanted to build a "pile" that went fast at the track and I didn't care how it looked, I would have a 7 sec car by now. But it's not all about 1/4 mile performance. It's about the total package: Fit, Finish, Functionality, AND being Fast. It doesn't take a lot of skill to make a car just go fast in the 1/4 mile. It takes skill to make it all look good and have all of the creature comforts working while doing it, as well as it being reliable enough to drive just about anywhere and perform well at all aspects of driving. Yes, you can have your cake and eat it too. I guess I just have high standards.
Since when does an 11.53et beat an 11.36et and an 11.35et?
There are Fieros that are faster than yours and DH's. And they look good while doing it too. What's your point?
I said faster instead of quicker for a reason. From a rolling start I'll put bus lengths on you guys. I'm nice to my trans at the track so I can't quite click off the ET that you auto guys can. If we raced side by side at the track I would blow you off the road at the finish line.
Since when does an 11.53et beat an 11.36et and an 11.35et?
There are Fieros that are faster than yours and DH's. And they look good while doing it too. What's your point?
And my last supercharged setup ran 12.0, with a cam, pump gas, and a torque converter and it was easily the heaviest fiero I have ever known to race at milan.
I also dont really see the comparison difference between my car and the car that was BARELY faster than me after many pases. My ONLY all out pass (missing 12 degrees of timing I might add) put me at nearly the same time with a significantly easier launch. I dont see how "looks good too" comes into play either... Just because I have a stock coupe with a normal repaint paintjob makes it "less good looking" than a car with a wild repaint, a pile of aftermarket fiberglass, and stupid headlights? I would say that is a very strong matter of opinion (and would make yours, and akursedx's "not good looking" as well)
When I first read this thread there were tons of references to great information, and a beautiful low cost build to boot!
Then some moron came along and turned it into a giant pile of steaming "let's argue over less than a 1 second difference" crap.
The fastest streetable car in the world is a 2200 hp monstrocity and get's one half a mile to the gallon at the strip and five miles to the gallon day to day driving.
I said faster instead of quicker for a reason. From a rolling start I'll put bus lengths on you guys. I'm nice to my trans at the track so I can't quite click off the ET that you auto guys can. If we raced side by side at the track I would blow you off the road at the finish line.
I wish we had the chance to race some time when I was manual. Its too bad we're so far apart geographically.
I think it's foolish that your view is so narrow. It isn't just about raw speed. If I wanted to build a "pile" that went fast at the track and I didn't care how it looked, I would have a 7 sec car by now.
There is no "pile" that would ever go down a track at 7 seconds.... You need tight accurate chassis, and in the 3000lb car range, you are going to need 2000hp, at least... which is not going to happen on a "pile" type budget.
quote
But it's not all about 1/4 mile performance. It's about the total package: Fit, Finish, Functionality, AND being Fast. It doesn't take a lot of skill to make a car just go fast in the 1/4 mile. It takes skill to make it all look good and have all of the creature comforts working while doing it, as well as it being reliable enough to drive just about anywhere and perform well at all aspects of driving. Yes, you can have your cake and eat it too. I guess I just have high standards.
Sense when did the L26 intake look worse than a 15 year old camaro intake? Sense when did a L26 intake make a car any less reliable? Sense when did the fact that you have "creature comforts" or not come into a intake discussion?
I have a feeling that you are taking pokes at the whole "trunk situation", which is a non issue for either of us. A/C is not something either of us use up here, as our fieros are not our only cars. Remember that we are just stupid kids with no money too..... I would like to think I made a pretty good effort on a college student with no job budget.
