Well, I tried to bleed the clutch system again today. Instead of removing the exhaust and heat shields, to be able to reach down into thea area where the slave touches the fork, I used a pry bar, to compress the slave, and small piece of wood wedged between the strut tower brace, vent bracket, and pry bar handle, to hold the slave in the compressed state. I got a much better bleed with this, and there is some pressure when I press the clutch pedal in, now. But, it is still impossible to shift into gear with the engine running. The idle just drops a bit when I hold the clutch in and try to push the shifter into first. And if I start the engine in first gear, the car just wants to roll forward as soon as I let off the brake pedal.
[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 03-14-2017).]
Have got brand new bearings for rods, mains, and cam, and psiton rings, all Sealed Power. And a set of ARP rod bolts. Need to get the cam gear still, and then the Vette oil pan kit ($$$), and some new gaskets and I can get the short block back together after cleaning and clearancing the rings and everything.
Clutch is still not acting right, and not sure if it's the slave or the master that's bad, or something else completely. There's no fluid in the boot at the master though. And I can't see any visible leaks at the slave either. The pedal also isn't losing pressure over time, which is a bit odd, since if there is a leak in the system, it should be losing pressure.
[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 03-14-2017).]
Tried looking into my clutch issues a little more. Looks like maybe the master is leaking through or around the reservoir, but not a lot. The pedal is a lot softer now, so some air definitely got in, and it was a little wet on the bottom of the master near the reservoir. Looking at the possibility of using a newer style master to match the fittings for the HTOB on the F40 trans, since I'll hopefully be getting it in sooner rather than later. But it looks like none of them have the same mount style as the Fiero master.
C6 Vette oil pan, oil pump pickup tube and screen, full length windage tray, oil pan gasket, low level oil sensor, oil pan bolts, oil filter mount and drain plug.
The '05-'06 Corvette LS2 oil pan does not have the "bat-wing" design of earlier rears. The GM part number for the pan is 12598186, and the suction tube is 12558750. If there is a complete kit, I don't have info, nor do I have PNs for the dipstick and tube, or the windage tray, though it's rumored the truck tray can be fitted. That's easy to find used for virtually free.
Aside from the windage tray, there are no baffles in the LS4 oil pan, it is just a large wide open pan. Later today I can post a picture of it.
The LS4 pan was designed for daily driving, with the occasional spirited maneuver. But the 'vette pans were designed for a SUSTAINED 1g in ANY direction. Go, stop, turn, even combinations of these. So even turned 90 degrees, it's still the best choice.
Originally posted by JPH87: You do know that the LS4 oil pan has baffles in it to make sure the oil pump does not cavitate do to the engine being side ways
The low profile Vette pan has WAY better baffling than the LS4 pan. It looks like this:
This is the oil pan I'll be using. It also frees up some room underneath, since at the tallest point it's only about 5" tall, and the "front" end of the pan is only about 2" tall.
EDIT: Hit the wrong Quote link before.
[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 10-09-2010).]
Originally posted by fieroguru: Finally got around to taking an LS4 oil pan pic:
Hrmm. I'll have to look again tomorrow, but I think my LS4 pan is different than that one. I seem to recall it having a couple of lengthwise baffles on the bottom part of the pan.
Hrmm. I'll have to look again tomorrow, but I think my LS4 pan is different than that one. I seem to recall it having a couple of lengthwise baffles on the bottom part of the pan.
Mine is a 2007, maybe the 2005/2006 were different.
Originally posted by fieroguru: Mine is a 2007, maybe the 2005/2006 were different.
Mine is the same. It would be weird if they removed baffles for the new version of the engine. I must have been thinking of something else; spending too much time looking at oil pans on the internets, trying to find the best one to use, for a good price.
Just got the new clutch master sitting at my door. Should be able to get it in this weekend. I hope it's what is actually wrong with my clutch hydraulics. No pedal means no fun.
Just a heads up with the clutch, im not sure what tools your using, but if you get a bleed doctor, mini vac, speed bleed pump, whatever there called now adays, it makes the clutch bleeding much, much, much easier. I had multiple issues with both my 87's until my father bought me this vacuum pump that sucks the fluid in and primes it. Works very very well. Its sold at most automotive stores and cuts down on having to pump the brake petal as much. Good luck, and good work so far, dont let the clutch discourage you.
Well, I got the new master cylinder installed last week. Still can't get any pedal pressure after bleeding, so I guess the master wasn't leaking, and the slave is. I'll be out of town this week, but will be ordering a new slave as soon as I get back. Hopefully with the new master and slave both, it will actually solve the problem of the apparent leak that doesn't seem to show itself. Anyway, here's some pics.
[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 03-14-2017).]
Installed new aluminum slave cylinder today. Got plenty pressure in the pedal now. The slave seal was definitely busted. The rubber boot on the old slave is full of fluid. Feels like a stress relief ball when squeezed. Battery was dead after sitting for only a few weeks. Charning now, and I'll go back out to check that clutch is fully disengaging with it running, in a bit. Wish the time hadn't changed yet. I could use another hour of light still.
I am following your swap with interest as I just bought an F40 and am considering what engine to use in my 87. I like the idea of an LS4; I have seen Fieroking's LS4/auto swap and it is great! The big issue with the F40 is the cost of getting all the parts necessary for the axles, flywheel and clutch. I have ebeen researching that extensively. I was curious what your plans are?
One other comment. I while back you showed pictures of your door panels. They look great. I modified Bonneville door panels which have a map pocket and speakers on the bottom that stuck out quite a bit. I ended up redesigning the bottom because there was not enough clearance to pull up the ebrake unless the door was open. Jim
Originally posted by bowrapennocks: I am following your swap with interest as I just bought an F40 and am considering what engine to use in my 87. I like the idea of an LS4; I have seen Fieroking's LS4/auto swap and it is great! The big issue with the F40 is the cost of getting all the parts necessary for the axles, flywheel and clutch. I have ebeen researching that extensively. I was curious what your plans are?
One other comment. I while back you showed pictures of your door panels. They look great. I modified Bonneville door panels which have a map pocket and speakers on the bottom that stuck out quite a bit. I ended up redesigning the bottom because there was not enough clearance to pull up the ebrake unless the door was open. Jim
I don't have exact plans for the flywheel and clutch yet, but I don't think it should be that bad. You should look at fieroguru's thread. He's also doing an LS4 + F40 swap, and is a bit further along than I am.
As for the door panels. Thanks for the compliment. I haven't had any time to work on them more either, and the other problems that have popped up with the car as it is, have been taking my time away from getting any work done on the mods. Hopefully I can get back to working on them all soon. I've been driving a Cobalt for the past week, and it's rekindled my desire to get that steering wheel in my car.
Hopefully whatever is causing the exhaust to heat up like that is a simple problem. The weather and time change will make it more difficult to get stuff done during the week, for the next few months, unfortunately. Guess it's time to use up the rest of my vacation days.
Pulled the plugs on the rear side yesterday, to see if anything obvious was causing the glowing exhaust. The #3 plug looked fine, maybe a little lean. The #1 and #5 plugs were wet and smelled of gas, but not sure if it's running insanely rich, or there was just fuel in the chambers instead of being burned before shutting down. But either way, I don't think it's the problem, because the #1 exhaust port was at a reasonable temp. The #3 port is the one that's getting really hot, with #5 being a little less hot than the #3, but I think only because it's heat travelling down the exhaust.
The oil pressure seemed like it might be adversely high, but not sure if it's because it was idling very high (about 2300 rpm), or if maybe one of the galleys is blocked. It's not at all low on oil, though it's about time for another change, as the oil smells a little burned/used now. And it's idling very high. Could be the EGR tube I suppose, need to check that. But if that was causing the exhaust issue, i'd expect all cylinders to be effect, and not just one?
Pulled the plugs on the rear side yesterday, to see if anything obvious was causing the glowing exhaust. The #3 plug looked fine, maybe a little lean. The #1 and #5 plugs were wet and smelled of gas, but not sure if it's running insanely rich, or there was just fuel in the chambers instead of being burned before shutting down. But either way, I don't think it's the problem, because the #1 exhaust port was at a reasonable temp. The #3 port is the one that's getting really hot, with #5 being a little less hot than the #3, but I think only because it's heat travelling down the exhaust.
The oil pressure seemed like it might be adversely high, but not sure if it's because it was idling very high (about 2300 rpm), or if maybe one of the galleys is blocked. It's not at all low on oil, though it's about time for another change, as the oil smells a little burned/used now. And it's idling very high. Could be the EGR tube I suppose, need to check that. But if that was causing the exhaust issue, i'd expect all cylinders to be effect, and not just one?
Im Pretty sure there is no EGR on the LS4. Have you hooked up a scanner and looked at your data feed and active codes? The LS engines do produce pretty high olil pressure, what numbers exactly are you seeing?
Originally posted by blander66: Im Pretty sure there is no EGR on the LS4. Have you hooked up a scanner and looked at your data feed and active codes? The LS engines do produce pretty high olil pressure, what numbers exactly are you seeing?
This is on the 2.8 that is still in the car. The LS4 is still not yet reassembled, and hanging on an engine stand. The oil pressure on the 2.8 was up near 80 though. Probably about 70 or so.
After more checking, it looks like it is a vacuum leak. Covered up the idle air inlet again and idle went down to normal, instead of dying as it did before. Just gotta find the leak now and seal it up.
Found the vacuum leak. Cracked EGR tube, right at the base on the intake end. And the clutch is still acting up, even though there's plenty of pressure in the pedal. I hope the disc isn't shot.
Well, put on a new EGR tube, and it still has a vacuum leak. Not sure if the new tube isn't sealing all the way, or if the plastic vacuum lines are cracked somewhere under the intake or what. It's sealed more than it was before though, since it drops down to about 500 RPM when I cover the IAC inlet in the throttle body with my thumb. Clutch is still acting up, hoping it's something dumb simple, then at least I can drive it even with the vac leak. I hope it's not the plastic lines. I really do not want to pull the intake off.
Well, finally got the clutch to disengage again. Adjusted the master cylinder banjo down a little, and seems ok now. Could probably use a top up on fluid and another quick bleeding, just to be sure, but at least I don't have to push her in and out of the garage to move around now. Also went digging for vacuum leaks. No definite problems found yet, but the cruise diaphram was making a slight whistle sound when I moved it in and out by hand. Ended up yanking the whole diaphra/canister and cable out in the process. Engine bay is a lot cleaner looking without it.
Didn't help with the vacuum leak problem though. In fact, I think I ended up making it a little worse now. Think I'll just get a bunch of end caps and start plugging capping vacuum lines and ports until the problem goes away.
Get a can of (carb cleaner I think) and spray it on your lines while the engine is running and listen for the rpm to change when you hit the leak. Mine turned out to be the egr line. Since I can't remember what I sprayed for sure you should research it or have a fire extinguisher handy, or both.
Got some TB cleaner and sprayed around all the vac lines with no luck. Eventually the idle just went down to normal 900 though. Not sure where it's leaking at though. Took her for a drive, and while I can shift, the clutch still doesn't feel quite right. And a couple times it smelled like it was burning a bit after a shift. Also discovered a tiny problem in the cooling system. Sounds like it is losing some pressure through the radiator cap. Lots of hissing coming from the cap as the overflow drained back in. Could probably use a flush and fill too. Doesn't seem to be leaking though, so that's good. At least I can actually get back to spending some time on the LS4 build now, I hope.
