But I have a 7730 on my stack of things to do, prolly this summer. Then my DashScan will be obsolete, and I'll have to engineer some replacement. Of course I'll post on Pennocks when I'm done.
But I have a 7730 on my stack of things to do, prolly this summer. Then my DashScan will be obsolete, and I'll have to engineer some replacement. Of course I'll post on Pennocks when I'm done.
Best regards Oliver
That would be great. I was able to plug in my laptop using a cable from ALDLcable.com, TunerPro RT software and downloaded a generic .ads file for the '7730 ECM and was able to pop up a window displaying my live TPS voltage so it probably shouldn't take you too long to get that figured out. I think with the '7730, you send a request then receive the reply vs. the constant stream offered by the stock Fiero ECM that was meant for the RALLY display.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 02-24-2011).]
I know the 7730 data stream, but DashScan is not capable of decoding it - the DS CPU only has a single UART, which is already used for the display unit. A second UART (serial port) would b required to interface to the 7730 data stream. This is why I had added the coprocessor for mileage decoding - but it is too slow for the 7730.
No matter how you look at it, DS is not up for the job, which is why I am working on an alternative. It's a completely different approach, I already have a set of circuit boards for the prototype (there will be three boards: supply, CPU and display). The boards are sandwiched, and I'm in the process of populating the boards section by section. Maybe I'll find some time tonight to put the display on the board (which is a bit risky, if anything goes wrong, I'll fry the $50 display). Wish me luck!
Some additional info on the fobs: I bought new ones on eBay for $35 each from Midwest keyless. Fast delivery. The Firebird fobs seem to come with pictograms for locks, horn and trunk, while the Camaro fobs show the words "lock", "unlock" and "rear 2x". Horn is still a pictogram. Buying a pair of each is handy if you have two Fieros with the BCM upgrade - easy to tell the remotes apart.
As for programming: Ignition off, then remove the radio fuse. Turn ignition on three times within 5 seconds.If the BCM unlocks the doors, you are in programming mode. Now press and hold both lock and unlock buttons on the remote for 15 seconds. The BCM will lock and then unlock the doors if the remote ha been learned. Repeat this for up to four transmitters total. Finally turn off ignition and reinstall radio fuse: that's all!
I just finished the upgrade on another car, and this time I also wired up the shock sensor - feeding the required wires through the bulkhead connector's unused terminals. This resulted in a completely stock look. Check out the picture at www.fieros.de/en/articles/BCM.html
Also, I found out what the undocumented pin does on the green connector: it's an antenna input! With this knowledge I was able to significantly extend the range of the remote receiver with a simple piece of wire!
Awesome. I just purchased a module on ebay. I'll need several other tools and parts, and most importantly I need to recruit my electronics guru friend to lend a hand. I have a few questions (I'm an electronics idiot).
Is there any difference between the UPL and KUB coded modules?
What exactly does the term, "isolate" mean as used in these directions? I see it used often as, isolate the splice.
Am I correct to assume that the trunk release button on the dash will no longer work after the modifications listed under the Trunk Release section? Is there a way to make it functional as well as the BCM trunk release functions?
------------------ 1988 Fiero GT Custom Corvette / MR2 electro-hydraulic power steering 17" rims covering up 11.25" rotors with Cadillac Calipers & drop spindles
I've done the mod three times so far, always using the UPL coded modules, which work. The other codes I list in the article are described as I researched them to the best of my knowledge.
Isolate means putting something like tape around the conductive (metal) parts. But if you don't know that, you should really get someone to help you with this upgrade.
The trunk release button will work just like it did before, you won't lose any functionality! On the contrary, you'll be able to unlock the trunk using a remote key fob.
One final note: please don't use the old copy of my article that was copied into another thread, because I keep improving the article constantly each time I do the upgrade or get additional information. Please use the up to date version on my website!
no, the Firebird/Camaro BCM will work with ALL ECMs/PCMs, stock or non-stock, L4, V6, V8 or even Fred Flintstone propulsion Fieros (hole in floorpan)!
The BCM does not use any feature of the Fiero ECM at all, they are not even connected.
On the contrary, if you do swap in a newer PCM that requires a VATS (Passkey) signal, the BCM generates that signal for you. I have not tried that though, but if you use a non-Fiero ECM/PCM from 98-02, they should be compatible.
I've done the mod three times so far, always using the UPL coded modules, which work. The other codes I list in the article are described as I researched them to the best of my knowledge.
Isolate means putting something like tape around the conductive (metal) parts. But if you don't know that, you should really get someone to help you with this upgrade.
The trunk release button will work just like it did before, you won't lose any functionality! On the contrary, you'll be able to unlock the trunk using a remote key fob.
One final note: please don't use the old copy of my article that was copied into another thread, because I keep improving the article constantly each time I do the upgrade or get additional information. Please use the up to date version on my website!
Ha ha, I'm not THAT much of a dummy. lol. I assumed that is what was meant by isolate, but the phrase was used so much, and isolating it from other wires and metal seems so obvious, I thought maybe in this context it meant something more.
I'm using the article straight from your website, please don't take all that useful information down. On that note, I'm looking forward to more information on swapping the ignition cylinder to the VATS system.
Where did you get a hold of the F-body factory service manual? From your instructions it looks like I will need one and I've seen the CD's on ebay, is that good enough?
I just emphasized the Isolation bits around the fuse box because it's obviously very important. I was just trying to be thorough... ;-)
If you run into a question, don't hesitate to email me (I rarely check PM's) And don't worry, I won't take the info down...
The Vats ignition lock - well, the 89 Camaro column supposedly had the VATS lock cylinder but no airbag yet, so the lock housing should interchange with the Fiero column... I haven't found a proper column in a yard yet though...
RWDPLZ or Yellow88GT, Have you tried this yet or anyone else? Might try the yard tomorrow and see if they have one of these since my dash is already out.
Where did you find the shock sensor and on what type/year of vehicle? I am assuming that the Firebirds and Cameros would keep them in the same place. If I get enough info, I will make a run tommorow to the yard. Thanks, Steve
That would be great. I was able to plug in my laptop using a cable from ALDLcable.com, TunerPro RT software and downloaded a generic .ads file for the '7730 ECM and was able to pop up a window displaying my live TPS voltage so it probably shouldn't take you too long to get that figured out. I think with the '7730, you send a request then receive the reply vs. the constant stream offered by the stock Fiero ECM that was meant for the RALLY display.
Well, I've finally put in the 7730 last weekend, basically rendering my DashScan useless. So now I have to start working on a solution... ;-)
Anyone want to buy a BCM and 2 remotes for the F-Body: BCM pn: 09353691 Remote pn: 16245100-29 I bought them both off of EBAY wanting to test them out, but didn't get around to it. Price is $90 shipped anywhere in the US. First email to mcgavinz26@gmail.com gets it. I bought these and have not tested them, but I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong. Ebay seller stated they were in good working order and had good reviews.
Pros: This does not require taking apart the dash to install. If you unplug the BCM, your power locks, horn, and lights still function as normal. I found a way to wire it so that most (all but 5 wires) of the wiring gets plugged into the car's harness, not spliced. This makes installation easier.
Cons: No flashing alarm light, but the alarm still works. Adding a flashing LED is pretty easy, doesn't need to be part of the BCM. No shock sensor. Not all of the BCM's of this generation have the alarm function, which was my main reason for doing the install, but I didn't find this out until later.
I am gathering all the parts together to tackle this and here is what I have: F-body BCM Three connectors with 6-12 inches of wire F-body shock sensor Two new key fobs Extra wire (F-body dash & interior harness) F-body factory service manual P-body factory service manual
I need the pins and the tool for removing the pins. I re-read the website and am confused. What part numbers are for the correct sizes of pins and how many are needed of each? I will get extras anyway, but do I need 5 or 20? Anybody know the best place in the US to order the pins and the tool for releasing them?
I know it is an old thread, but I recently started this upgrade. I skipped the rear hatch wiring because I was a bit confused. Why all the wiring at the switch? Since we already have a rear trunk relay, I wondered why we don't just tap into the relay signal side and run that to the correct terminal of the BCM? I did not do that because I figured there was a reason Fieroluke didn't do it that way, so I just didn't wire in the rear hatch release. Any information on why you did what you did for that part would be appreciated.
I'll be doing the tests tonight, so we'll see what happens... cross your fingers for me!
I skipped the rear hatch wiring because I was a bit confused. Why all the wiring at the switch? Since we already have a rear trunk relay, I wondered why we don't just tap into the relay signal side and run that to the correct terminal of the BCM? I did not do that because I figured there was a reason Fieroluke didn't do it that way, so I just didn't wire in the rear hatch release. Any information on why you did what you did for that part would be appreciated.
I'll be doing the tests tonight, so we'll see what happens... cross your fingers for me!
Well, the Fiero trunk relay can't be used with the BCM upgrade because it's only a 3-pin relay like the horn relay. On the FIero all solenoid power goes through the trunk release switch. The relais is only for disabling the trunk solenoid if the e-brake is not pulled or the transmission is not in PN. The BCM can't drive the trunk solenoid directly, but it only has enough power to drive a relay. Since the 3-pin relay is not compatible with the BCM in this circuit, a 4-pin relay must be used with the BCM (if you want to be able to remotely pop the trunk that is). You could wire the 4-pin relays working contacts in parallel with the trunk switch, but then you'd end up with 2 relays where 1 would suffice. That's why I went with the schematics as they were on the f-body.
Thanks for the reply. I'll use that information and study the instructions again. I hesitate to perform these changes unless I at least have a rudimentary understanding of what is being changed.
I performed all the tests and put the dash back in and things appear to be in order. I haven't found the correct resistor yet, so that may be the cause of the few minor issues I've had. When I get that sorted out, we will see if any problems remain. I can't seem to program the remotes yet. I assume I need to fix the VATS resistor first, but I'll know for certain soon enough.
Well... the short version is: don't drive the car until you get the correct vats resistor in place.
The long version is that I put it all together with the wrong resistor in late Tuesday. So I drove it to work Wednesday. In my parking garage I was admiring all the new features (rap) when I set off the alarm. So I put the key in & turned to run. Then it occurred to me: without the right resistor, my keys wont turn off the alarm. So... I had to pull the horn relay to stop the alarm. FYI: I don't think you can do anything with the module (program remotes, check BCM codes, etc) until you get the correct relay in place.
After work I couldn't get the alarm to stay off. So I left the horn relay out and set about to find the correct resistor.
quote
Originally posted by fieroluke:
Good luck with the VATS... If Murphy is right, it will be the last possible value, no matter which order you try them in ;-)
Oh the irony...
With the peace & quiet I was able to follow the procedure and try to find the correct resistor. Â After the first 10 failed, I began to think I was doing the procedure wrong. Â After 12 I was distraught, assumed I was doing it wrong and was beginning to think about going to the 30th Fiero show without the Fiero. Â When the 14th resistor failed, I assumed something was broken and I was screwed. Â But, I figured I'd come this far I might as well check the last resistor anyway. Â So I waited the 3 minutes, put in the last resistor and I couldn't believe it, it worked! Â What are the odds?!?!
So after that all the troubles from Wednesday went away, I put the horn relay back in and no alarm sounded. Â I was able to program the two remotes and everything seems to work correctly now.
Just out of curiosity (as I'm about to do this upgrade) will this retain the parking brake warning chime? I'm putting this in an 87 gt 5 speed with a 3.8sc
Bringing an old thread back to life here. I just finished up my 98 camaro bcm install into my 87 gt tonight and I've been doing a bit more digging and found This on a separate forum, detailing the programming mode for these BCMs (I'm going to try it out myself tomorrow to see what I can do to mess around with it)
Not understanding the testing procedure on this write up. But I'm sure it's a simple procedure.
quote
Before hooking up the BCM, I ran a couple of tests which I list here in case you too want to test your work before connecting everything.
The first part of the tests should be performed with the battery disconnected. Use an Ohmmeter to verify these terminals are grounded (a continuity tester works too) at all times, or grounded when the given condition is true:
C1 (green) C: lock switch driver and passenger door pressed (test both sides) C1 (green) D: unlock switch driver and passenger door pressed (test both sides) C2 (black) A: Main ground C3 (blue) C1: Signal ground C3 (blue) C7: IP dimmer switch: interior lamps on C3 (blue) C13: Seat belt unlatched C3 (blue) C14: Driver door open AND key in ignition C3 (blue) D3: Trunk release switch pressed C3 (blue) D11: Driver door open C3 (blue) D12: Passenger door open
Also verify D2, D13 and D14 are not grounded! If you have the Passkey system hooked up, verify the resistance between C2 and D7 reads correctly on the Ohmmeter.
The connectors on the BCM are named J1 (green), J2 (black) and J3 (blue). So in the quote it says:
quote
C1 (green) C: lock switch driver and passenger door pressed (test both sides) C1 (green) D: unlock switch driver and passenger door pressed (test both sides)
What terminals is this quote referring to? C1 on the J3 (blue) connector? Tested to what? The J1 (green) connector to the C terminal? What are the "both sides" to test? Door locks circuits? Thanks in advance for any advice.
[This message has been edited by mental floss (edited 01-04-2015).]
Just out of curiosity (as I'm about to do this upgrade) will this retain the parking brake warning chime? I'm putting this in an 87 gt 5 speed with a 3.8sc
Sorry, car is in storage for winter. I actually can't recall.
Sorry, car is in storage for winter. I actually can't recall.
I installed mine and it does NOT retain it. I'm going to reinstall my blue dingy thingy and modify the pins coming into it so I have that warning chime again
