Here is my "ULTIMATE" weight loss IDEAS list.
Every idea from magazine articles I've read,
suggestions provided by the members on this forum,
and just some observations and ideas I've cultivated.
The list will be broken up into TWO sections,
the former will be STEALTH weight loss.
The latter will be HARDCORE weight loss.
(Respectfully.)
For those who want to be more clandestine,
but want to "slim down" for whatever reasons.
STEALTH.......................................................................
Front fascia:
There is a large area of plastic UNDER the nose.
This could be replaced with light grade aluminum.
( I plan to do this mod this spring.)
There is a metal fascia support bar
in the lower nose as well.
I looked for it, but it was already gone.
( Probably the repair shop who replaced
the fascia did'nt bother to reinstall it.)
Bumper beams and bumper supports (" waffles")
There are several options to choose from.
1. Leave everything fairly stock,
but just CUT OUT (or drill)
small portions of the bumper beams.
The same could be done with the "waffles",
( bumper support media.)
2. Remove the entire front bumper beam,
replace with SMALLER,LIGHTER steel bar.
3. Remove the entire f.b.b.
replace with aluminum bar (s),
( An aluminum ladder could be utilized
by cutting it up into sections, and
reconfiguring it.)
4. Remove the entire f.b.b.
replace with foam inner bumpers
that some latermodel GM cars use.
There are little "dog ears" on the very tip
of the front sub frame that could be trimmed off.
Remove the front hood prop mechanism,
use a prop rod made of aluminum.
Remove steering dampner.
( Easy 3 lbs.)
Remove spare, jack and lugnut pry bar.
Use RUNFLAT tires.
Remove jack support bracket.
Replace larger window washer reservoir
(if applicable) with SMALLER early
style washer reservoir.
(Dont fill it up more than half,
fluids have weight as well.)
Replace rubber coolant hoses with
PORTIONS of aluminum tube.
Replace steel coolant lines
(Under car, and to engine)
with aluminum pipe.
Paint black.
Replace steel vacuum brake line
with aluminum.
Paint black.
Replace plastic vacuum lines
on engine with aluminum.
Paint it, baby.
Replace steel gas tank with plastic fuel cell,
or custom aluminum gas tank.
Replace MIDDLE fuel tank support bracket
with lighter steel, or titanium bars.
( Keep gas tank 1/2 full, fuel weighs roughly
6-7 lbs a gallon.)
Replace door impact beams with either LIGHTER
steel, Titanium bars, or aluminum.
( The beams are rumored to weigh 10 lbs each,
I'll find out for sure this summer.)
Replace metal door mirrors with lighter alternative.
( Plastic rally mirrors from summit,
or decent looking motorcycle mirrors.)
Holes could be drilled UNDERNEATH
the stock mirrors as well.
Replace stock floor mats with lighter mats.
(The stock mats weigh 5 lbs together!)
Replace the bulkhead liner
( behind the seats)
with just light carpeting.
(For heat insulation, dynamat is fairly light.
To really save some weight, use thermal-tec
heat repellant paint on engine bay wall.)
Sunvisors could be replaced with acrylic,
or lexan covered with grey fabric.
(the metal in the visor could be replaced
with a lighter metal as well.)
Use just TWO speakers instead of four.
Replace floor carpet with a lighter alternative,
(you'll have to shop around to ascertain
what you're willing to LIVE WITH.)
Stock, the floor carpet is 40 lbs!
There are some small door reinforcements
hidden behind the door covers that can be removed.
The sunroof glass can be replaced with TINTED lexan.
( Should be a 10 lb reduction.)
The rear window could also be replaced with lexan.
( Have'nt weighed it yet, but should be 10 lbs as well.)
How many POWER OPTIONS can you do without???
(Power windows, mirrors, trunk release, window defrost.,
A/C, cruise. etc. etc.)
Personally, I want power windows.
Replace headliner with fiberglass, or cloth covered foam.
Map pockets have some weight, do you really use them???
These could be replaced with vinyl, or leather inserts.
Sail panels could be replaced with aluminum
that has openings for the "flying buttresses'.
(Lexan probably could be molded to fit as well.)
Stock fiero 14" or 15" wheels are fairly light to begin with.
To further reduce unsprung weight,
replace CLOSED END lugnuts with OPEN ENDED lugnuts.
Some tire valve stems are pretty long,
there are SHORTER, lightweight air valve stems available.
( Some are very clean looking.)
A narrower tire helps reduce unsprung weight as well.
I currently have aluminum craggars
with 16" 225 55 series tires.
After thinking about it, I'll probably go to 215's
on the front, and leave the rears alone.
( Maybe. A LIGHTER tire would have LESS inertia ,
which would help acceleration somewhat.)
IF you never use them, ditch the emergency brakes,.
The handle assembly, and the cables.
(Roughly 5-6 lbs. )
Replace rear calipers with FRONT calipers.
(Less parts, less weight. Rears should work MORE
efficently.)
With the e brake nomenclature gone,
this mod should be more doable.
(Warning:
This idea is just a THEORY of mine,
an adjustable porportioning valve may be required.)
Drilled stock rotors could also be utilized.
Replace stock suspension
(front and rear) with TUBULAR suspension.
Remove rear decklid torsion spring, and torx bolts.
( An aluminum prop rod gets the job done.
5-6 lbs. deleted.)
Remove rear deck release solenoid,
plus harness.
Remove trunk blower fan and tubes.
There are HIDDEN pockets of fiberglass
BEHIND the tail lights that can be extracted
with a cut off wheel.
Replace cat (if applicable) with test pipe.
Remove factory muffler,replace with SHORT glasspack.
Remove factory muffler support springs
and brackets.
For those who DONT have to be emissions
complient..........
Get new computer chip burned
from darth fiero with the intent to remove
the EGR valve.
With this done,
Remove EGR, plug EGR hole in intake with epoxy,
Remove EGR intake to exhaust tube
Remove EGR mount bracket
Remove EGR exhaust mount, cover opening
new opening with a portion of LIGHT steel sheet
and secure with clamps.
Last but not least,
Remove the electronic control solenoid.
( With everything combined, roughly 4 lbs. deleted.)
Stock dogbone is LIGHTER than upgrade,
but prone to cracking.
A lighter steel bar with poly could be fashioned.
(poly shock bushings are available individually
at 0' reilys and autozone. Probably summit, and jegs as well.)
Replace battery with lightweight drycell.
( Stock battery averages 40 lbs., a good affordable
d-cell averages 15 lbs.)
Shorten trunk floor so it's not as DEEP.
Or, cut judicious rectangles from the trunk walls,
and epoxy in aluminum sheets.
Remove restrictive metal backing from decklid vents.
Remove old, nasty factory heat insulation from
engine bay.
Remove old, rusty vacuum pipe from engine bay wall.
(Sometimes these are left in from the factory recall fix.)
Replace chunky, factory cold air intake box
with aluminum flex pipe, or aluminum dryer vent
hose. (Expandable.)
Remove restrictive airfilter hold down bracket,
use rodney dickman upgrade.
Replace steel PCV pipe with a k&n valvecover breather.
( Also prevents carbon build up in the upper intake.)
Replace factory starter with lighter tilton starter from summit,
or use a LIGHTER starter from another GM car.
(I'll have to go look it up again, but I think it was from a grandprix.)
Replace factory crank pulley with aluminum underdrive pulley.
(Not too much underdriven though.)
There may be aluminum pulleys to replace
your alternater, and water pump pulley as well.
( Helps prevent parasitic power loss.)
Remove or replace factory "y" exhaust tip splitters.
Remove factory exhaust tip heat shields in bumper,
replace with thermo-tec heat preventative tape,or paint.
Rear bumper and bumper support media:
Same options as stated previously in opening.
This completes the first part of the list,
will post the HARDCORE WEIGHT LOSS list
later.
Brian
[This message has been edited by sunofjustice (edited 01-01-2011).]
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