i think i got the coolant issue fixed, i think the clamp at the bottom left rear wasnt tight enough, tightened it down, and doesnt seem to have a problem now.
and the low voltage issue i think might be a bad TPS, every time i "tap" it, the tps % jumps from 0 to 14% tap it again and it droped down to 3%, flicked it and it went to 34% O.o
i *do* need to adjust the shift linkage a bit more still, bout to go start it and let it warmup again to makesure of the temp issue.
linkage fixed... car is DEF overheating :/ idk why, just tried to blead it out again, still does it, maybe need to take it somewhere and try having it pressure bleed.
hmm, i flushed the system out the first week after i bought the car and didnt have these issues, but you do know that your supposed to have the car running with the radiator cap half off while filling the system from the back, then seal it all up and loosen the bleeders and fill through the resovoir tank if needed?
hmm, i flushed the system out the first week after i bought the car and didnt have these issues, but you do know that your supposed to have the car running with the radiator cap half off while filling the system from the back, then seal it all up and loosen the bleeders and fill through the resovoir tank if needed?
good luck
mike
dont have a resovior tank. can you send me pics of how your coolant lines inthe back are setup?
My engine bled pretty easily. I have an inline coolant fill between the drivers side coolant tube and the thermostat housing. Fill up the radiator and coolant tank in the front, close them up. Then on the back used one of these
let the car run for a while, squeezing the hose. Even let it sit one night full to gravity bleed if possible. Heater works great and car runs at 195ish all day long.
just drilled the main holes out of the flanges for the 3500 manifolds, now hopefully i can get this coolant system straightened out tomorrow, maybe some exhaust bolted on (flex tubing) and ill be happy :P
made a small inprovement to rodneys clutch line repair today, i never have like compression fittings, so i picked up 2 6mm bubble flare fittings and a union, flared out the lines, and tightened them down. in MD compression fittings fail inspection anyway, so might aswell not have any issues down the road..
so.. today nexteldude stopped by to change the coil and module on his 88 duke, and i decided to just remove the rear filler next i put in that seemed to be the cap that kept leaking, i took it out, and was just gona toss it to the side, and he tookoff the cap, looks at my and goes "shouldnt this be round?" yep... it somehow deformed.. the one inlet tube and the cap housing were both egged, cheap pos plastic junk.... the cars never overheated, just wouldnt bleed... welp, pretty sure that could be why... will let you know tomorrow, got too dark to finish tonight.
side story, he changed out the module and coils, gets in car, starts right up.... 30min later, goes to leave, get in car... no start... brand new module was bad, was def a day of "fiero issues"... hopefully no more issues tomorrow lol.
took car around the block for its first "trip" seems to run pretty good, loud as all hell (no exhaust yet), brake/wheel bearing sound comign from what sounded like left rear, gona have to check into that.
need new pigtail for the TPS, its only working when it wants to, tested the sensor, its fine. sound coming from the left rear sounds like brakes, 2 cold to be out there (i hate cold)
new issues, went to start the car, starter "free spun" hit the key again and it started, but sound like something "rattling" from down low, not sure from exactly where, ima have to pull the starter off and see whats going on....
Could be a bad CTS connector, a bad PCM connection or bad splices on either the +5v or the black return ground wire. Don't forget if the +5 to the TPS is lost, the blue wire will have 0v on it. If the black wire goes open then the PCM will show the CTS at 100%.
Could be a bad CTS connector, a bad PCM connection or bad splices on either the +5v or the black return ground wire. Don't forget if the +5 to the TPS is lost, the blue wire will have 0v on it. If the black wire goes open then the PCM will show the CTS at 100%.
just checked it all out, 5v stays good, stays, the only thing droping is the signal wire. and i was "testing" with everything else disconnects, cts - map. so im 99.99% sure its just the pigtail, it looks like poo to begin with :P
[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 12-11-2011).]
ok, well fixed that issue.... dont ask what it was, was really really dumb... lets just say, make sure all testing equipment is in working order before tracking down a problem....
while doing that tho, i did *ALOT* of tidying up on the harness from the original i had made. ill get pics once i get it back in the car.
anyway, i just order an ECM tray from local dealer, one from a like 00 S-10, i think i read someone here used the same on a 3800 swap, but heres some pics i found of it on ls1tech
that should fit nicely in the factory ecu location.
Did you get the PCM installed in the factory location yet? You just reminded me that mine isn't technically bolted down yet so I'd like to see how this worked out for you Any other updates? I know it's getting snowy now...
Did you get the PCM installed in the factory location yet? You just reminded me that mine isn't technically bolted down yet so I'd like to see how this worked out for you Any other updates? I know it's getting snowy now...
i opted to mount my ECU behind the drivers seat, im going to put a sub in the center console, and didnt want it to get in the way, so i figured to think ahead for once and not put the ecu there :P this also gives me easy access to it incase of issues.
I used that PCM holder for mounting it on the outside in the engine bay, don't think it'll work in the cabin under the center console, too big. But who knows.
it fits there... but i opted for behind the seat, i wana put a good sub in the center.
promotion at work, home life, kids, etc etc... car runs, drives, still needs exhaust, cant find a local shop that doesnt want to 100% rip me off (ive gotten quotes from $700-$2400 for just crushbent no muffler exhaust)
now im about to move, and not sure i can work on the car there, so i might be forced to sell :/
You could just go the bolt on route and get the Trueleo exhaust like I did. Cheap? no but sounds better then the custom shop choices you've shown. Again, if only you were closer...
When I got my swap running I just got a muffler shop to make flanges and a y-pipe going to the stock muffler. With a new battery tray also, cost was $400. Personally I was pretty happy with the result. And if I want to, I can upgrade the muffler later.
updates on status of the car, its still running, only use it to goto the store and back (still no exhaust).... took it to 4 exhaust shops today that "needed to see it" even know i took pictures etc w/ me... $1250, $900, "atleast a grand or more" and an "i wont do it, not worth my time"
ordering Ubends this weekend.. ill cut up the pieces and mark them all, find someone to weld it for me.. cant belive exhaust is that hard to find around here....
updates is the car itself Is in rough condition (as seen from some of the pics) im saving up to have turbo headers / Y / downpipe to be made, and move the whole engine over to the mint 88 I picked up...
for those who haven't seen... a turbo 3500 will be moved into this in spring / summer
hrm... loving that flipped intake..... makes for ton's of room on the other side.... might have to revisit your build thread before I move my engine over, you got any dyno #'s or track times yet?
hrm... loving that flipped intake..... makes for ton's of room on the other side.... might have to revisit your build thread before I move my engine over, you got any dyno #'s or track times yet?
Man I wish. the HTOB blew when I was putting it together, and I didn't have time to fix it before I left for boot camp, now the car is 600 miles away and very lonely...
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...