Originally posted by ericjon262: rebuilt my shifter today, but I have a new problem. Rodney's shift cables have the ball stud already pressed in, and it doesn't look as though it is easily removed without destroying the cable end, and the F23's ball is welded to the link... time for more welding, and re working... it'll let me kill two birds with one stone though, because the bracket holding my select cable in was too close to the ball, and made it hard to get into fifth and reverse. I'll post pictures tomorrow of how I fix it.
I'd need to see a picture of what you're talking about for it to be clearer. I purchased my cables from The Fiero Store and they appeared to be just like Rodney's. I was pointing out at the time how nice they were because they were not only adjustable at the mount sleeve, they were also adjustable at the cup socket at the tranny end of the table. The OE cables are not adjustable at all except at the tranny.
Someone expressed desent about that ability in the cable suggesting it was inferior somehow, but when you're dealing with a custom application that characteristic is a plus.
There are two ball sizes at the Fiero tranny lever depending on what tranny you are using and from what I recall the Muncie 4 speed used both, one of each for the levers and the gate select on the Getrag the small cup which the F40 requires. I could be partly wrong about that but I know the cable with the end for the small cup comes in two different lengths and the one for the 5 spd is the longest.
well guys, I keep looking at the manifolds I have, and thinking about how they are a really poor match for my engines potential, and I've made the decision to continue onto making a custom set of headers. 1.5" 16ga mild steel, 3/8" flanges, and 3-1 collectors(1.5" in, 2.25 out) I'll probably reduce the 2.25 to 2.00 out of the collector for better velocity going into the turbo, but we'll see once I get come pipe in my hands.
Speaking from experience, keep it simple, a nice blended log design like fingers merging into a pipe is still good. if you're going to build headers with mild steel you better do 14 Ga and shield it as opposed to heat wrapping, I can promise you the mild steel will not hold up well to the heat if you wrap it. It'll last for a while but unless relief points are built in they will warp and flake under the wrap. Leaks are hard to find with the wrap and will result in intermittent poor, or sluggish performance intermittently making the problem hard to resolve. It's very discouraging to have very good performance one day and noticeably less the next with no idea as to why.
You will not likely have a problem with the welds, it's just mild steel and it will see higher temps for a longer duration with a turbo and that will take its toll regardless of who welds it up. Cast iron can absorb more heat because of the increased wall thickness and as long as it is not wrapped you are less likely to have a problem with it. One source for turbo manifold building is weld elbows. Try McMaster Carr for those.
Ladies and gentlemen, with the exception of the grounds, maf /iat sensor connector, and final taping, the powertrain harness is complete!
Not until you spend another 45 min to an hour back probing the PCM plug pins against the sensor plug pins and grounds to make sure you didn't cross any by accident. Good job, can't wait to hear about the results when its up and running.
thanks! I like putting the time into making it myself, I keep digging deeper holes for myself though... turbos cams, pistons....
LOL I am in the same boat with the 3.4TDC car. It was supposed to be an R&R, clutch and service. Now its MegaSquirt MS3, ING-6, All new wiring, battery relocation, exhaust, CAI, tune, suspension work etc etc.
I never added the fan and don't feel there is a significant benefit to it considering it would only be effective when the car is stopped at a light. The water heats up so slowly during this time that long before the temp increase becomes significant you'll be moving again to cool it back down. In bumper to bumper traffic you can't go fast enough to need the benefit anyway. Without the intercooler at operating temps, the hot turbo added about 30 deg to the inlet temps and I recall cruise temps in the 130s during the Summer. The intercooler kept temps below 100. usually at about 10 deg above ambient and if you have at least a 2 gal coolant capacity you'll have no problem maintaining that considering I'm still running ~1 gal.
The temp stability (I setup a history table for it in Tunerpro) is amazing. Since you don't have impedence from a GT bumper I'd expect your heat transfer to be a little better than mine.
That's a nice tank. It's obvious it's going to get some ice at some point so here's something you should consider in place of a cooling fan on the exchanger, an electric heater bypass valve to help get the most out of an ice bath. You don't want ice cold coolant going through the heat exchanger and getting warmed up toward ambient temps.
