all of my pictures went away, photo****it decided I needed to pay them a ridiculous amount of money, I'll eventually reload them and bring this back up to speed... maybe.
[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 11-03-2019).]
the oil filter would sit right against the side of the a/c compressor, I also didn't want rubber lines where I couldn't access them for inspection. I'm not 100% where the filter will be when I'm done. The adapter's ports are 1/2" pipe thread and I can put a couple of tack welds on the 1/2" gas pipe to secure it 100% when it's set.
------------------ there's a Group on 60degreeV6.com for us 660 Fiero owners!
Nice progress. I'm going to second the oil filter plumbing redo. If you want hard lines get an adapter for 3/8" or 1/2" brake line. That stuff is HEAVY and will probably crack your filter adapter.
Nice progress. I'm going to second the oil filter plumbing redo. If you want hard lines get an adapter for 3/8" or 1/2" brake line. That stuff is HEAVY and will probably crack your filter adapter.
~sam
I'm going to make a support bracket to hold it up, it won't be free standing like that when completed. it's also the same inside diameter as the adapters, so there won't be a significant restriction to flow. it's not set in stone yet, but I probably won't go with brake line, it's too small, 1/2" brake line is 1/2" out side, 1/2" pipe is 1/2" inside.
------------------ there's a Group on 60degreeV6.com for us 660 Fiero owners!
Looking good so far. I'm most interested in seeing the F23 come together with the 3500. I'm sure you know this but after you get your 3400 harmonic balance on, don't forget to gap the external 7x crank trigger to 0.050 inches. You also kind of lost me on that oil filter adapter. I know I mentioned using a 3400 AC compressor but if you want to go with the relocation, why not turn those 90 degree bends towards the driver's side of the car. There is a ton more room there (on my swap) then near the battery where your oil filter looks to be heading.
LOL. The only thing I didn't cheap out on with my 3400 swap was Rodney's polyurethane mounts. Of course I have to convince some skeptical people it cost me less than $500 too. It was close enough.
just a little update, I got my balancer in with the 24x ring.
unfortunately progress is going pretty slow, 40+ hours a week at work, then work on my house, keeping my truck running ect... and on top of that, the last 2 days off I've had have consisted of working on other peoples cars!
------------------ there's a Group on 60degreeV6.com for us 660 Fiero owners!
Originally posted by Will: I meant that *ZERO* fab was necessary to mount the engine.
oh, I thought you were being sarcastic about the 26 year old mount being used, there is a small amount of clearancing nessacary on the oilpan of the 3500, but nothing a sidegrinder can't take care of.
Purchased a mount from rodney, but I think I'm going to make a new mount for the front to replace it, I may have a better way...
------------------ there's a Group on 60degreeV6.com for us 660 Fiero owners!
You could try and wire wheel the welds and go over them with the tig. Tape off the ends, poke a small hole for air to escape and purge with argon and the inside will weld up nice too. Just a thought.
First time seeing this thread, looking good! I finished my 3800/F23 recently, and the F23 works great! Too high gearing in my opinion, but it's still really fun, it just hates traffic.
And there is something about nice looking bumper-pads that appeal to me for some reason...
So happy to see the whole engine being installed. I've done a lot of experimenting along these lines, unless you intend for someone else that lacks the stamina to turn the relatively practical powersteeringless Fiero, I strongly advise you to ditch the addition of power steering. You have enough going on already with a tranny, engine and turbo swap going on at the same time. I've been there and I speak from experience, KEEP IT SIMPLE until the base install is complete and functional.
STOP! with the plumber rendition, get that crap off of that motor now, you're asking for trouble. Even supported I wouldn't trust that pipe on that light duty oil bypass adaptor. If you're afraid of rubber hose in that application, braided steel line will put you at ease, siliconeintakes has everything you need at very reasonable prices. I can't emphasize it enough, that pipe needs to come off.
Otherwise it looks good and should be a lot more fun to drive than what you are prepared for if you turbocharge it. That body style is one of the lightest produced, you might need to put a few bricks in it to keep it on the ground.
I see you intend to use the stock fuel rail, do not use the Mallory bypass adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I read poor reviews about it after purchasing it and am experiencing one of the complaints; inconsistent fuel pressure which I believe is part of the reason I can't completely eliminate idle hunt.
For the oil bypass setup I used a 90 degree flat adaptor with the 3900 block mount adaptor which is a little shorter than the one your motor came with and it cleared the cradle easily.
I see where you're going with the front tranny mount now... I need to get started on this, but the lift I am going to be using is being used to make money right now...
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:
I see you intend to use the stock fuel rail, do not use the Mallory bypass adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I read poor reviews about it after purchasing it and am experiencing one of the complaints; inconsistent fuel pressure which I believe is part of the reason I can't completely eliminate idle hunt.
For the oil bypass setup I used a 90 degree flat adaptor with the 3900 block mount adaptor which is a little shorter than the one your motor came with and it cleared the cradle easily.
What do you suggest for an FPR then? I believe one of the examples I've seen just uses a stock 3400 FPR modified to work remotely... I am doing a similar install, without the turbo, in my 88 utilizing the returnless rail of the 3500...
Originally posted by ericjon262: anyone want to donate money (or parts) to the turbo 3500 fund?
I'd like to, but by the time I finish laughing you'll be finished with the project. It gets expensive fast and the most costly of all is over ambition, poor planning, then coming up with good plans and not following them and finally getting good advice and not following it, been there and done it.
