Originally posted by fierosound: Not sure who's ALDL cable I'm using. Got it years ago (2002?) from someone here. It uses a 1/8" jack/plug to connect with the ALDL port. I'm positive the cable worked fine with WinALDL and both the 7170 and 6869 ECMs, but wanted to check its connections. I can't find any info on it anywhere...
If you're running $12P code, the easiest thing to do is buy a usb to 5V serial cable like this one and solder rx, tx and gnd directly to the ecm:
Not sure who's ALDL cable I'm using. Got it years ago (2002?) from someone here. It uses a 1/8" jack/plug to connect with the ALDL port. I'm positive the cable worked fine with WinALDL and both the 7170 and 6869 ECMs, but wanted to check its connections. I can't find any info on it anywhere...
I am quite interested to see this running with a duke, especially a pre-88 one.. once I get my '84 back together, I would be more than happy to be test subject for this swap on for the early L4 setup and help get a baseline tune figured out.
I am quite interested to see this running with a duke, especially a pre-88 one.. once I get my '84 back together, I would be more than happy to be test subject for this swap on for the early L4 setup and help get a baseline tune figured out.
A bit vague, but the bis in the most important thing. Thanks for the link, looks like I have some reading and digging to do! =)
The 1227165 ECM was used in 1987-91 GM trucks (S10/S15 etc.) trucks with 2.5L TBI Duke engine. If you can find ECM from that truck with the AUXH Memcal - you'll be all set.
If I do not plan on doing any tune on the fly, then get the AUXH memcal chip, that if the ECM comes out of the truck, should be there. And mods to this memcal need to be done with a standalone chip flasher, correct?
If I do want to tune on the fly, then make the needed mod to the ECM, and get the NVRAM chip, ALDL serial to computer cable (already have made similar things before)
Add an IAT
Probably wbo2 because why not,
Now with the knock sensor, regardless of internal filter or not, what value does it add toall to all of this? There is the knock retard and the knock counter, but much else?
And being an '84, I will need to totally rework my wiring harness form card edge connector to plug for this ECM. That will be fun.
Anything I am missing, or should be aware of?
[This message has been edited by KillerFrogg (edited 05-14-2014).]
I don't think the stock code will accept WB02 input - only the hacked code.
I really don't know all the "ins and outs" of this. I just happened to be researching it the other day as well. But I believe we're on the right track.
I think you'll be OK using an Automatic trans Memcal if you have a standard transmission, but not the other way around.
I think so to. But for pet projects like this, I am cheap. So that means junkyard time. I need the pig tail to go with it to, so if i can get it all at once I will be quite happy.
Ordered the correct ALDL interface from RedDevilRiver on eBay.
So I hafta wait 'till it gets here - then we'll be able to see what's going on.
... to be continued.
I got the ALDL cable from RedDevilRiver yesterday - snail mail is SO slow (and STILL expensive)
At least we can now make some progress. TunerPro can now communicate with the ECM. I ran the engine and saved a datalog file that I sent to Chet that he can have a look at to see what's happening.
I think we can sort things out and get this car running again by the weekend - I hope.
Fierosound, care to elaborate, or at least share your experiences?
Still working on it. The hardware is great, but I don't have the expertise to tune this thing. I'm going to stumble around in TunerPro RT some more this weekend.
OK - I got the car running and have taken it out for a couple of 15 minute drives.
It took a while to get an appropriate BIN as a start point with matching data files. Once we got that figured out, the ECM takes a while to sort out the IAC, you have to play with the fuel etc. just to idle. It also became apparent my older model Zeitronix ZT-2 O2 controller was NOT a linear signal. So I changed that out to an Innovate LC-1 controller and am running with that now.
So now it runs. Idle is not bad and it doesn't feel awful when driving, but looking at the dashboard information, there's LOTS of tuning ahead. Light throttle leans it out, so there's not enough "pump shot" and stomping WOT drops it to an AFR of 10 (maybe less) - too rich!
At least I can now say the hardware is working as it supposed to. Now it's the software (tuning) that needs work.
Been having success with my 7165 for a while now. Running a Northstar with a bin file derived from an OBDII data file I found in the archives (posted by AJ) Engine runs well and easy to tune. Minor issues of course but a bit of research and time sorts these out. Don't have the knock sensor figured yet, so I have the knock retard feature of ESC disabled (un-set) for now. Previously ran the 7730 on the N* but I prefer this setup so far.
If your engine is mostly stock and runs fine - don't bother changing the ECM.
quote
Originally posted by KillerFrogg:
Fierosound, care to elaborate, or at least share your experiences?
The trick is to start with a BIN file that's close to what your engine is. Sounds reasonable, right? With the GT we were starting with V6 turbo or supercharged BINs - that worked terribly.
In desperation, I got a Camaro TPI V8 BIN file (set up for MAP) and made a couple of simple changes. Set it to 6-cylinders, a BAR 2 MAP sensor and set the fueling to match my injectors. Worked great! The car is completely drivable, though I know it's not 100%. The tuning will need need some refining.
However, I'm leaving that until the Indy is sorted out. It was a priority since it was completely undrivable with the FAST EZ-EFI system
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-05-2014).]
So, first I need the ECM. Add an IAT Probably wbo2 because why not,
Now with the knock sensor, regardless of internal filter or not, what value does it add to all of this? There is the knock retard and the knock counter, but much else?
And being an '84, I will need to totally rework my wiring harness form card edge connector to plug for this ECM. That will be fun.
CHET can chime in on whether this setup is only good with the $12P BIN file or not. Not completely sure if you can run a factory 1227165 S10 2.5L BIN (I don't see why not).
For the $12P BIN file, I already had the WBO2 sensor and just bought a Controller for it. Best price and excellent products from here: http://www.14point7.com/pages/products
Here's the conversion wiring diagram I created when I did the conversion for my 84. The 84 ECM has numbered Black and White connectors, the 7165 has them numbered A,B,C,D
So I have 2 cars running with this system. Both are running OK, neither is running 100%
I'm still working with Dave at Old School EFI ( www.gearhead-efi.com ) to tune the Indy. Apparently, the Aussie $12P code is very different from the regular GM code, so it's been a learning experience for Dave to get this far (and he's an experienced GM tuner/TunerPro user - I'd have NEVER got it working). I figure I have about a month of "driving weather" left before the Indy is off the road for the winter. Then we'll have to continue working to get the tune "just right" in the spring next year.
The Indy was a priority since it started out completely undrivable, but once it's done, we also have to have a closer look at the $12P tune in the GT with supercharged 3.4
It's too bad there isn't a more widely used regular GM Stateside BIN file w/ WBO2 capability that can be used in this ECM with the NVRAM (ie: $58)
Fierosound- hopefully in the next week, I will be getting my feet wet trying to tune my SD4. I went with Dynamic EFI with what amounts to the 1227747 ECU. I set the injectors, and switched it to a 4 cylinder. No idea what else will need to be changed, but for now just crossing my fingers that the engine will run without a MECHANIAL issue. (Wiring is not quite right with my Fuel Pump. I need to solve that, then I'll be ready to try to start it)
Thanks - have all that. Means nothing to me - that's why I have "a guy" doing it (and he has all that too).
I have BOTH my GT and my Indy with this setup. It's easy to install the damn thing - tuning is the key. So now I have TWO cars that "kinda run OK" and we're trying to get them running 100%.
The guy doing the programming for me knows TunerPro inside and out, and has retuned GM factory BINs on www.gearhead.com (Dave W.) The Australian $12P has quirks that make it quite different from what he's worked with, but we're giving it a go. Maybe it's a long learning curve.
Conversely, the Aussie guys will have good specifics for their vehicles, but only generalities for us since they've no experience with US cars. Had an Aussie guy look at the BIN for the Indy. He made a few changes - didn't work so good, so I flashed the previous version back into the ECM. His comment was they only need to make a few minor changes for the Aussie cars - haven't heard back from him.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-21-2015).]
I am far from this skill level, having just gotten my 2M4 recently.. but very intrigued. What I could offer is to make a PC board that adapts the CPU socket with whatever additional NVram is needed, maybe with a double function of a place to plug in an emulator cable? Something to make life a lot easier for modding? This is my forte, so I would do it just to help out. Gerber files anyone?
completely missed that you had already posted the link I did.
