Do you know what CV cups are needed for these new hubs?
I am planning to use the CV's from the S10 - same application as the bearings to ensure proper fitment. The 27 spline CV's from the mid 80/early 90s 115m bolt pattern FWD cars might work as well.
Have you looked into it fully? I am wondeirng if the spiders and rollers from the fiero are compatible with the s10 cups. I am looking at chaning to s10 hubs and s10 front spindle/brakes on my Fiero ChumpCar.
Have you looked into it fully? I am wondeirng if the spiders and rollers from the fiero are compatible with the s10 cups. I am looking at chaning to s10 hubs and s10 front spindle/brakes on my Fiero ChumpCar.
Not recently. A few years back I parted out a 92 bravada and looked over the CV ends and figured they would interchange. I need to buy a set of axles and see what it takes.
So is it the opinion of folks here that the S10 hub is the BEST to use for the rear? Or is it just enough better, and works, such that finding something else just isn't worth it / hasn't been done?
So is it the opinion of folks here that the S10 hub is the BEST to use for the rear? Or is it just enough better, and works, such that finding something else just isn't worth it / hasn't been done?
I wouldn't say there is a "best bearing", but the S10 one works, it is pre-ABS so it is lower priced and easy to modify, simplifies the use of C4 vette rotors (same bolt pattern and bore diameter, but I am running my non-vette 13" rotors), and allows the use of many Corvette wheels that come in 16 to 20" in diameter and from 8" up to 11" wide.
You could use the Pontiac 6000 5x115 wheel bearing with the same modifications if you want to use that bolt pattern for your wheels... or any other bearing that is close to the right size.
Looking at a Cruze bearing, it's 5x105, quite odd, but MIGHT be able to squeeze a 100 bolt circle on it. 4x100 would be really nice, TONS of wheels to pick from in 15x7. Need to check out the bearing size and see if it's worth using still. (And need to check out Cobalt stuff too).
Looking at a Cruze bearing, it's 5x105, quite odd, but MIGHT be able to squeeze a 100 bolt circle on it. 4x100 would be really nice, TONS of wheels to pick from in 15x7. Need to check out the bearing size and see if it's worth using still. (And need to check out Cobalt stuff too).
You need to be careful selecting the bearings if you plan to redrill them. Most have multiple access holes for attaching the mounting bolts and these holes do not allow any excess room for a 2nd pattern. The rear fiero flange is a perfect example.
The Cruze has a nearly solid face (1 extra small hole, to retain the brake rotor?). Clearance to the head of the wheel studs is about 2mm. Have to do some clearancing, but could probably work. I need to pull up some prints and see what the bearings actually look like.
Why did you decide against cutting the knuckle larger rather than the hub? Would it be possible? Sorry if I miss the obvious.
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru: A couple of quick measurements. The wheel bearing hole in the 88 upright is 2.798". The edge of the tapered surface is 3.264"
The thinnest part of the S10 wheel bearing is 3.180"
The stepped surface then grows to 3.622"
The 3.622" stepped portion of the S10 wheel bearing interferes with the bolt holes in the knuckle and would have required a lot more machining to the upright. So I split the difference between the two. There are several ways to accomplish the same end result. I think the C4 rear wheel bearing doesn't have the raised 3.622 portion, so it might be a better fit.
Thanks FG. I would like to find a hub and bearing that I can use without machining. I don't mind cutting up the knuckle since it has so much mass. Just curious. I like the way yours is turning out. Are you going to machine more for sale?
Nice, same bolt pattern as Firebirds, too. Would increase the number of available wheel options exponentially from the ridiculously limited selection of 5x100's
like these::+ Click to EnlargePart Number: BW1810KG *Discount Exempt YearOne Snowflake 18 x 10" billet aluminum
What kind of offset would you want to run with these bearings? I was just looking on ebay, and one of the only wheels I like (Why does that size have to consist 95% of five spoke wheels and old muscle style wheels?) was in a 50mm offset. That doesn't seem like it would even be close to what it should be...
What kind of offset would you want to run with these bearings? I was just looking on ebay, and one of the only wheels I like (Why does that size have to consist 95% of five spoke wheels and old muscle style wheels?) was in a 50mm offset. That doesn't seem like it would even be close to what it should be...
Offset really depends on how wide you want to go and you need to be 18+ diameter to maximize the width on an 88. I am running 18 x 10.5 wheels with 56 offset, but I also pulled the wheels in 1 5/8" at the bottom and 1" at the strut tower to get the wheels flush with the body.
I happen to like 5 spoke wheels, so the cheap available wheels worked well for me.
I have an 84, but it sounds like the 50 offset might be alright. I'll also probably be going widebody, so I'm hoping to have them stick out an extra inch and a half or so.
I was going to ask the same if there was going to be a bolt on kit? I really would like to go to the Corvette rotor and wheel without adapters. But it's too much work for me unless someone else does the heavy lifting.
Interesting setup. I just recently did a similar mod on an 87 using the old Buick Century spindles. I think the century spindle will bolt right up to an S10 (or one version of an S10).
Which part number are you using?
What is the spline count through the bearing? If memory serves 27 splines is the S10 wheel bearing? Which interestingly enough is the same spline count as the Buick Century bearing which is available in a 115mm pattern... you might be able to get away with Century axle parts.
Interesting setup. I just recently did a similar mod on an 87 using the old Buick Century spindles. I think the century spindle will bolt right up to an S10 (or one version of an S10).
Which part number are you using?
What is the spline count through the bearing? If memory serves 27 splines is the S10 wheel bearing? Which interestingly enough is the same spline count as the Buick Century bearing which is available in a 115mm pattern... you might be able to get away with Century axle parts.
The S10 part # is 513013 and they use a 27 spline, which is the same spline as the heavy duty FWD bearings with the 115mm bolt pattern. I have done a set using the FWD 115mm bearing, but the bolt hole pattern at the upright flange is slightly different, not a big deal, but they are not exactly the same either.
When Installing the S10 wheel bearing into a HD FWD 115mm upright, you have to enlarge the upright main bearing hole slightly and notch the 3 bolt holes to correct for the pattern difference.
I modified a set of wheel bearings today... To press out the wheel studs, I used the vice and some caliper brackets to apply pressure directly to the wheel flange (not through the bearings):
Before I started with the drilling, I went ahead and made a fixture to hold the 88 front wheel bearing for the drilling process. The base is 1/2" steel plate with 4 holes that line up with the t-slots on the mill, the stands are 3/8" wall thickness turned to length on the lathe with a 1/2" through hole, the base was drilled on the mill for the flange to upright 3-bolt pattern with a 1/2" hole, some 1/2" bolts to clamp the stands to the base for welding, then used some long M12 bolts to clamp the M12-1.75 nuts to the top of the stands:
Once mounted on the mill, I also went and took a little material off the nuts to make sure all 3 were level to each other:
Stock mounting bolts are used in 2 of the 3 holes. The one at the center uses an 88 caliper bolt (longer) with a series of nuts (2 are tapered) to lock the hub flange into position and not allow it to rotate:
Once it was bolted down, I dial indicated it to find dead center and zero'd out the DRO:
Using autoCAD I drew out the original shape of the flange with the large center hole at the top (same as the fixture), then added the 5 x 114.3 and 5 x 4 3/4" patterns. I dimensioned all the holes in X-Y from the center and used the print to precisely drill the new pattern.
Now the next time I do this, it won't take nearly as long...
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-28-2013).]
Holy Bring Thread Back From The Dead Post... I did not notice, Sorry.
I need this in my life. Curious why you never considered an 88 Bonneville wheel hub, its about .050 skinnier at the hub pilot, 27 splines and you get an extra millimeter of flange diameter. Also looks like larger holes to fit your bolts through to the upright. Might be worth a look see.
Bolt Circle Diameter (In): 4.528 Inch Bolt Circle Diameter (mm): 115mm Bolt Size (In): 0.510 Inch Brake Pilot Diameter (In): 2.780 Inch Brake Pilot Diameter (mm): 70.6mm Flange Diameter (In): 5.730 Inch Flange Diameter (mm): 145.5mm Flange Offset (In): 1.660 Inch Flange Offset (mm): 42.18mm Flange Shape: Modified Hub Bolt Hole Size (In): 0.510 Inch Hub Pilot Diameter (In): 3.545 Inch Hub Pilot Diameter (mm): 90.05mm Number Of Splines: 27 Spindle Bolt Size (mm): M12-1.50 Wheel Pilot Diameter (In): 2.761 Inch Wheel Pilot Diameter (mm): 70.1mm
Also, have you reconsidered doing work for PFF members yet? I've got some GXP rims itching to be put on my Fiero.
[This message has been edited by SeizureNoodles (edited 12-08-2015).]
