I was getting bored of sandblasting so I started working on separating the engine from the cradle. My catalytic converter was cut out and stolen so the only exhaust connection that wasn't welded was where the headers connect to the Y-pipe. Even though I had been hitting those bolts with PB Blaster for several days and I even sandblasted them to remove any rust, they were frozen solid. Well, I'm not using those headers or those bolts so I just cut through the bolts with my dremmel. I removed the EGR and got all the exhaust springs off and I started loosening the motor mount nuts. I also removed the axle nuts and popped the driver's side axle out. That axle seal is bad so it needs replacement. I ruined my Napa seal trying to put it in. Had to get another one. This time from Autozone (see previous pic). For some reason, it looks like my new axle blew up. It only has a few miles on it but grease is everywhere.















Jonathan

Now that the exhaust is free, I started to work on the inner restriction of the Y-pipe. I did it a bit differently than any other member's posting that I have seen. I was concerned with cutting the tube in half and getting it back together correctly and at the right angle. This was an idea and experiment and I feel like it was a success. I began by trying to estimate where the inner tubes might be. That was a pure guess. Then I drew a triangle with a sharpie and cut along the lines with my 4" grinder with cut-off wheel. I made sure not to cut all the way through the final corner so I could peel the panel back and then fold it back in for welding later. Even though the pic turned out blurry, you can see that I did pretty well with the placement of the cut. The restriction was just inside the cut! It is hard to tell how much I cut out by the pics so I stuck my finger in there to show I had to reach back in there to touch the cutout. I did all my inside work with a Dremmel and the little cutoff wheels. I started by making some cuts into the restriction and then I continued by pulling and pushing the wheels against the cuts. So basically, I ground the metal out with the face of the cutoff wheels.











Jonathan

[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 06-28-2012).]

Here are the nose badges that a member made for me. I'm not sure if he wants me to identify him so we'll just have to wait to see if he jumps in and claims responsibility. Anyway, I think they are extremely cool and I really appreciate all his hard work. They're gonna look great!



Jonathan

[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 07-13-2012).]

Bought some stuff.

Timken rear hubs part number 513011K from AutoZone $56.93 and $57.06. I don't know why the tax was different at opposite ends of the street.



Pop rivits for the split in my trunk and passenger side floor. Home Depot $12.04



A bolt kit and all thread to hold my hubs together. Home Depot $9.43 Stainless self-tapping screws for body and battery tray. Lowe's $5.96



Two wax applicators and two buffing bonnets. AutoZone $9.58



Jonathan

agaiin very nice

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quote Originally posted by CrazyDragn: I know you know him, I wonder if he woulld do onefor me,,,,,,ask him PLEEEEEEEEAAAASSSSEEE

Would you want the exact same thing or something different. I don't mind asking for my number one fan! What did you think of the Y-pipe fix?

Jonathan

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: Would you want the exact same thing or something different. I don't mind asking for my number one fan! What did you think of the Y-pipe fix? Jonathan

I liked the Y pipe fix - very nice.

I would like to see if he woulld do the same carbon fiber but in back and instead of the pegasus - do a Ferrari Prancing horse.....
no names andno ferrari of fiero names - just no names and ony the prancing horse..........
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[This message has been edited by CrazyDragn (edited 07-17-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: Here are the nose badges that a member made for me. I'm not sure if he wants me to identify him so we'll just have to wait to see if he jumps in and claims responsibility. Anyway, I think they are extremely cool and I really appreciate all his hard work. They're gonna look great! Jonathan

I'm glad you like them and I don't mind letting the cat out of the bag

quote Originally posted by IMSA GT: So you want it in black carbon fiber, no lettering, and only the horse? No outline around the edges or anything? What color do you want the horse to be since it is traditionally black but obviously you won't be able to see a black horse on a black background.

I guess the traditional yellow carbon fiber back ground , black horse, S. F. at bottom, I guess just ike the original style, would that be easier? CauseI really do lie the original look.....

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[This message has been edited by CrazyDragn (edited 07-26-2012).]

Here's an update on what I've been messing with.

First thing is the driver's side axle seal. I had tried it before and ruined my new seal. This one went in without any problem. I was using a 2" PVC coupler and a BFH to drive them in. Looking back, I may have used the wrong end of the coupler the first time. I did not realize that the ID of the two ends of the coupler are different. One end is an almost perfect fit but I still went ahead and dremmeled it out just a hair. I also coated the outside of the seal with black high-temp RTV. So I did several things differently this time. Used Timken seal, used RTV, used a driver that fit flush with the outer edge of the seal. I don't know what the magic ingredient was but that was the receipe!


Second thing I was working on was seeing what I could do about the white oxidation on my red paint. It wouldn't compound out so I used some sandpaper to remove it. Unfortunately, because those areas are so rough, in order to get rid of the white, I had to go deep enough to go past the red.


As you can see, it will still shine up. I don't know much about paint and body work so my question is, should I do the rest of the bad places like I did this spot or should I leave them alone until I'm ready to paint?


Third shot is what happens when you sandblast your engine and you don't get in a hurry about painting it. To be honest, I kinda like it. It may be the separation between the block and the trans or maybe it's the color. I may have talked myself into painting the engine orange.

I see you have your low mount for your alternator on there - nice.

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quote Originally posted by CrazyDragn: I see you have your low mount for your alternator on there - nice.

As far as I know, that's the stock location.

Jonathan

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: Any thoughts on the paint question? Jonathan

I guess smooth and shiny is better than rough and dull. Either way, it's going to be two-tone until I paint it.

Jonathan

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: As far as I know, that's the stock location. Jonathan

OOOhhhhh, thats the 2.8 - - - - - I thought that was the 3.8, my bad

I'd say paint it with a high temp tollerant paint, maybe the color your going to paint your car.

[This message has been edited by CrazyDragn (edited 07-31-2012).]

I finally got around to getting my picture taken in the engine bay. I may have had too much fun with it!



Here's Kilroy (it's really me!)


Muscle Car!





Jonathan

I got a little work done too. I got the empty cradle back in the car and all four wheels back on. Now I can roll it in and out of the garage for cleaning, sandblasting, painting, and parts swapping. I also took the hood and deck lid off. These will be replaced by the red panels from my Formula one of these days. LOL





Jonathan

Now it's time to take off that rear clip!!

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A Crazy Dragn got into my garage and took my rear clip off! Really! I've got pics to prove it!



Jonathan

[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 08-13-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: A Crazy Dragn got into my garage and took my rear clip off! Really! I've got pics to prove it! Jonathan

LOL!!!

Today, I took the mirrors off. That required a little ingenuity since the windows are electric and the car is torn apart. These windows have not been moved in about 15 years but when I jumped current to the motors from my battery, they both went up and down smoothly and quietly. That allowed me to take the passenger side door panel off once the mirror was off. The car didn't come with a driver's side door panel.

I finished taking the ruined rocker panels off. I also had the driver's side front wheel well liner still on the car so it came off too. Now the car is completely naked. I intend to rattle-can the frame but I'm happily surprised at how good it looks now. I've still got to clean it up a bit more but it's coming along.

I've been straightening some of the metal where I've found it bent. Just minor stuff but it might as well be as good as I know how to make it. Another thing I've been doing is filing any sharp edges or corners. I hate those unexpected bites that cars can give you! I'm sure I won't get them all but most of the fangs have been removed.

Back to it!
Jonathan

If it's possible could you get a picture of both sides and the front and back of the spaceframe for me? I'm looking for the pic to be taken at squating/kneeling height dead center at a distance (from the sides at least) that fills most of the frame of the picture. I'm working on a photoshop project, and I can't find any good shots of the spaceframe at the height I need... almost all pics are from standing height. I'd appreciate it even more if you could get me hi-ish res ones.

Great work btw, the project looks like it's coming along nicely!

Edit: I'm looking for pics of the spaceframe to match up with and superimpose to these:

[This message has been edited by Uniquekind (edited 08-15-2012).]

I'm not sure if I have enough room but I'll see what I can do.

Jonathan

Uniquekind, here's your shots.









Jonathan

I never thought naked could be so sexy

[This message has been edited by CrazyDragn (edited 08-18-2012).]

I saw this thread and it made me curious.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/124499.html

I decided to check mine and this is what I found:



But my fins look pretty clean. Luckily just dry loose stuff that I can vacuum.



Jonathan

Thanks!

Oh my, do you remember mine.......Whew, Mine actually caught on fire WHILE I WAS DRIVING!!!! It was a mess. Appearently a mouse had built a nest in mine causing alot of damage, I;m glad thats over!!

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At 44 years old, I have to fight the sag every day! LOL I've been trying to loose about 10 pounds and I've been working out like a madman but the scales isn't very encouraging. I have gotten stronger and slightly more pumped and cut, though. I've been avoiding counting calories but that's prolly what it's going to take. I'm eating small meals about every three hours and doing about a ten minute workout before each. I have found that this works as good as a big cardio workout once a day. Naturally, my cardio fitness is slipping but I was just doing it to shed the weight anyway.

Jonathan

I started painting part of the cowl and botched it. I had to sand it off and start over. That made me want to practice. I knew I was going to need primer since I went down to bare metal. I realized that I had Rustoleum spray paint and Duplicolor primer. After reading both labels, I learned that they should not be used together. I researched the situation on-line and confirmed it. I also read that Rustoleum is softer than Duplicolor. I don't want soft. I also had trouble with Rustoleum spray paint once. It was prolly my fault but it all had to be sanded off. That particular project was a road bicycle frame. I decided that I should practice and finally re-paint that bike frame.

I sprayed two light coats of primer by starting with hitting the tight corners, nooks and crannies, and small details. Then I filled in the flat spots between them. After two coats, I wet sanded, shot another coat, and wet sanded again.


Then I sprayed the Duplicolor gloss black. I did two light coats, color sanded, then two glossy coats. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. There are a few small places that will need sanding then I'll have to polish the whole thing.


I also learned that this paint requires seven days to cure! That means I need to get busy painting all the stuff that I've sandblasted. That stuff will need cure time before I re-assemble it.

Jonathan

sheuw, I thought there for a second you were going to reframe your intire car with that - whaat a relief - LOL

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updates updates!!!

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