Good lord that is a badass prix.... Honestly I have often thought of getting one for my wife but she always says she wants a rustang. I think that car is probably faster and much nicer inside than about any mustang. Do you know the owner of that monster or did you just post the vid to show the cam. Sounds like a real pressure cooker just before he lets it loose... haha I love it!! I want my fiero to sound like that. Peace
I don't know him personally but I did see it run at US131 dragway in Grand Rapids, MI. I think his best time in 10.4@133. I was just posting it cause I want my car to sound like that.
Yeah man that is SAWEET sounding animal under that hood. I am assuming a 4t65E right? Can you imagine that kinda beast in a fiero.... just sick!! Of course your monster is pretty damn mean already. SO you have this tranny in the car and jammin' gears now? What do you mean it is not pretty? Peace
That grand prix weighs about 3150 I believe he said. Definately have a traction advantage with the Fiero, but unless you gut the Fiero, it's going to weigh about the same.
------------------ 11.425 @115.60 Best 60' 1.543 seconds 3800 S/C 4T65E
New combo : Billet 6262 Precision turbo, PT1001 intercooler, ST1 cam, 130lb springs, comp pushrods, HV3, otherwise stock L36.
That grand prix weighs about 3150 I believe he said. Definately have a traction advantage with the Fiero, but unless you gut the Fiero, it's going to weigh about the same.
Alex's purple car is 150+lbs lighter than my fiero.
Forgot my camera so I got some pics with my cell phone. I drilled and tapped the counter weights so I could put a bracket on the passenger side. I welded on the F23 piece of cable that was still on the trans when I got it. I used the pivot shifter ball thing that was cut off from the select shifter and welded it to the shift bracket. For the select cable I did what everyone else has done.
I moved it around in the garage. It shifted fine and there is no interference noise from the clutch pressure plate. Just a few more lose ends to button up like the speedo and for some reason I have no brakes. I saw some brake fluid on the inside of my wheel on my way out.
Looks good, I am just trying to imagine how the cables were routed, did you extend them an go in from the back Or did those brackets allow to keep it close to the stock Fiero routing?
I'm nervous about that long welded one. I'm not sure how well it'll hold up when its put in compression with a lot of force, hopefully the pic makes it look worse than it really is.
Looks like I either took too much material while grinding or the pressure plate rubbed just enough for it to leak. Drove it up and down the driveway and then it started to leak from inside the bellhousing. There is no visible hole but its just big enough for it to seep through. I split the trans case again and put a generous amount of cold weld on the inside and lightly coated the outside. There is actually quiet a bit for room where that step is for the differential. Don't know why it is such a drastic one, for strength perhaps? I'm pretty confident that it wont leak now. :fingers crossed:
I'll try to get some video of the shifter levers in action. It's a thing of beauty.
Hey Justin, Sorry to hear of your leaking issues man. What kinda cold weld are you using? You mean that stuff they sell on TV? Oh well if it works it works. I would love to see your cable routing video. I would also love to see this bad boy jamming gears down the quarter soon. Good luck man and peace
Almost the entire water pump housing on my dirt bike is made of JB Weld and it hasn't leaked in years. If its just a leak your fine but what a PITA.... No contamination on the clutch...?
The pressure plate was covered in ATF but the clutch disk was still clean. I only moved it about 100 feet before I noticed it was dripping.
Looks like clockwork! Not sure what ATF would to do a metallic disc, most wet sump clutches are metallic
I wonder if a thicker gear oil would benefit over ATF in this case. Ive done some searching on cavalier / ion forums but I havnt seen anyone brave enough to experiment. However seems a few people had good luck with GM synchromesh fluid, p/n 12345577. supposedly GM posted on a service bulletin "syncromesh can be used to reduce gear chatter and bearing noise" After more digging I found that GM synchromesh fluid is the same as 'Pennzoil sychromesh MTF' but I cant find any details on the weight or viscosity, but i get the impression its thinker than ATF.
I'll be posting this on my thread as well, but there has always been a bad sounding noise after the car warmed up since I got my 3800/F23 swap driveable. At first I thought it was a rod knock, or something to do with the engine (being super paranoid about everything as I am). Then, tonight, it hit me. It's my F23 input shaft rattling, as it goes away when I press the clutch in, and sounds like a rattle for sure. I also have a gear noise each time I engage into 5th at low speed. I'm running two quarts of synthetic Mobil 1 ATF. Maybe I should try overfilling it? According to what L67 told me earlier, the rattle happens with high mileage. I have no idea how many miles are on this F23, but there is a chance it is alot.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 05-05-2012).]
Made full boost in 2nd gear and it stayed together! It wouldn't go any faster cause I was hitting the speed limiter. Need to get DH to change the PPM and then make the speedo circuit. I think it needs to be changed to 24,000 ppm???
Made full boost in 2nd gear and it stayed together! It wouldn't go any faster cause I was hitting the speed limiter. Need to get DH to change the PPM and then make the speedo circuit. I think it needs to be changed to 24,000 ppm???
What speed limiter? What happens when you shifted to third?
Did you run the 282 VSS through the PCM? Getrag 282 VSS output was 4000ppm so you might have to reprogram to filter the 24 000ppm. Glad I stumbled across this because I just sent my PCM out for programming... Maybe if you disconnect the VSS it would get you by for now. Is you spedo doing anything crazy?
Yeah I know I need the pcm flashed. The speedo in dash would max out just putting around so I cut the wires for now. I was looking at the speed on the scanmaster which is just a tool that reads some values from the pcm, like mph, air temp, KR, spark, etc. I still need to run wires from the pcm to the c203 and make the 3800 speedo circuit that darth fiero has.
Did you run the 282 VSS through the PCM? Getrag 282 VSS output was 4000ppm so you might have to reprogram to filter the 24 000ppm. Glad I stumbled across this because I just sent my PCM out for programming... Maybe if you disconnect the VSS it would get you by for now. Is you spedo doing anything crazy?
I live 3 miles away... It will be ok.
The fiero VSS drove the speedo, so we need to adapt the PCM to drive the speedo after we calibrate the ppm inside the pcm.... Technically at 40mph the pcm will be seeing 255mph, which is probably not going to make it happy.
Hey man congrats on the swap and glad it appears to be holding boost for ya. I am sure with that car and as fast and powerful as it seems to be a full boost run in second without slip or explosions is gotta be a good thing. Good luck getting the rest of the little bits sorted. Peace
Originally posted by darkhorizon: The fiero VSS drove the speedo, so we need to adapt the PCM to drive the speedo after we calibrate the ppm inside the pcm.... Technically at 40mph the pcm will be seeing 255mph, which is probably not going to make it happy.
Isn't the reluctor in the transmission the same as what was originally used with the 3800 PCM? Why doesn't it read half actual speed due to the frequency divisor in the Fiero speedometer buffer?
I dealt with this on my Northstar car when I converted to the reluctor VSS. The PCM understands the reluctor natively, but I had to build the conversion circuit so that the PCM's speedometer output would correctly drive the Fiero speedometer.
I think because the PCM was set to read 4000 PPM, and when it got a signal of 24000 PPM, the speed (according to what the PCM is getting) went up really fast compared to what it really was.
At least that's what happened to me, because my L36 was from a forum member who had it mated to a Fiero 4-speed, while I used the F23.
Will's right. The reluctor in the F23 is pretty much the same one that is used in the 4T65-E's. So just set your PPM's and whatever speedometer settings back to factory, and you should be good.
The conversion circuit isn't complicated either. C1 Blue, Pin 55 to this circuit:
Tried to race someone today and I can't do a quick 3-4 shift. It feels like it goes in half way then kicks out when I let the clutch out. Any other time it goes in fine without grinding or anything. I can't recreate what is happening under normal shifting conditions either. Only happens on a fast shift into 4th. All other gears go in fine. Any ideas?
Otherwise everything's seems to be going good. Drove it ~150 miles while convoying to a few car meets.
Looks like I either took too much material while grinding or the pressure plate rubbed just enough for it to leak. Drove it up and down the driveway and then it started to leak from inside the bellhousing. There is no visible hole but its just big enough for it to seep through. I split the trans case again and put a generous amount of cold weld on the inside and lightly coated the outside. There is actually quiet a bit for room where that step is for the differential. Don't know why it is such a drastic one, for strength perhaps? I'm pretty confident that it wont leak now. :fingers crossed: 
