Ya the valve covers are a real pita, Watts on the forum stripped mine, and painted them to look exactly like the stock Fiero V6 with a Fiero decal on the cover so it said Fiero V8. It lasted about 6 months before the paint started falling off. Honestly the decal lasted longer. FOY had them powder coated so we will see how long that lasts.
------------------ 857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.
Ok, let's get back to the fun. Where was I...oh yes, wiring. Waaaayyyy back I had pulled out all the female wiring connectors from the C500 plug and cleaned off all the black weather proofing goo. After some mild research I decided to just pack it with the standard di-electric grease you get from the auto store. The male ends were cleaned up while leaving them in the plug with lacquer thinner.
No question, that plug is packed!
The plug slides into this clip on cover...hopefuly containing the grease and keeping it from making a big mess of the engine bay.
Just to make sure everything is protected, I covered the male ends with some grease as well.
I'm sure I posed this one before but it applies here. You can see the plug that feeds the brake lights pluged in and the engine side just dangling.
And this part of the C500 plug fits around it (yet to be greased) with the center bolt keeping both sides firmly plugged in. I spent a rediculous amount of time looking for that bolt when I was getting ready to put things back together only to realize that it was still in the plug and doesn't come out....just so you don't make the same mistake.
This plug fed the DIS system on the 88's 2.5 4cyl. The thick pink wire comes from E3 C500 and needed to go to the 4.9's distributor coil. The other (black/white) feeds the tachometer from the distributor. These wires along with the other C500 wires were snaked across the engine in loom under the fuel injector rail to try to hide them abit.
It's kinda hard to see, but this collection will form a U shaped path hanging down from the shock tower to a solid mounting point on the engine. When covered in loom, this U shaped collection of wires will help protect the wires by providing a means of absorbing vibration and engine movement. The dark green/white wire goes from C500 D1 to the Caddy ECM A11. I didn't see any reason to drag it across the engine and through the firewall so I located the wire between the two seats, and spliced it to the ECM right there behind the armrest.
I will later add a disconnect plug in case I have to ever pull the harness back through the firewall so the green wire isn't holding it back. My God! What a mess!
Your harness is making me feel better about the absolute mess I'm creating trying to wire mine. How did you run your harness? c500 across rear valve cover, 203/ecm across the front?
I have not started my c500 yet, but had been planning to run it along the back, branching off the 203/ecm loom somewhere, which is coming up and across from the trans end , then to 500 on the front side of the alternator in an attempt to conceal it. However the engine is next to the car so I have to guess a little where it will end up.
I'm still jealous of your heater outlet that you turned around. It looks so much better, and looks like it was never altered. thats great.
Your pics are helpful, thanks.
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 01-08-2013).]
How's your harness coming along? Any progress with the C500 end of things? I finally got a chance to take some pics of the way I ran my C500 harness. By no means is it the only way or even the best way...just my way.
I really don't know why the factory ran the wires through the firewall on the passenger side and then down on an angle...just looks messy. Must have been a time or cost saving reason. I moved the whole thing up against the underside of the window ledge. Yeah, ok, I don't like the tye wraps holding it there but I do plan on a better system eventually. I really just wanted...no, NEEDED to drive this car so I cut a few corners temperarily. These tye wraps are one of those corners. It does look better I think than the way the factory did it. With the vent on and from my height, I can't even really notice it's there. It helps show off the polished firewall too. I have to replace the cracked loom that covers the wiring that goes to the deck lid plug. All in good time.
This is the passenger side C500 connector and positive battery junction (again). The power to the positive junction comes from the wire with the large red end on it hidden just behind that loom. The two fusible links (orange wires) coming off of the positive junction run along with the wires from the C500 to the engine. One of the fusible links turns into a large red wire that goes to the alternator. The other one has a plug on it and I don't remember where it goes to. The loomed wires that go off to the upper left corner feed the brake lights. The loom that goes off to the lower right are all the engine wires from the C500 for the most part.
Here you can see how I ran the C500 engine wires from the shock tower area. I drilled a hole in the shock tower and used one of those loom anchors. I made sure to grab as many of them as possible in as many different sizes as I could when ever I was at the wreckers for wiring stuff. I'm sure you can buy them but why? Like I said before, the U shaped loop will help minimize wire stress and flex as the engine vibrates and moves a bit. I tucked the red alternator wire in with the others. In my field of work it is not a good Idea to run high voltage or current wires with the lower voltage or current wires as they can sometimes pick up induced voltage and cause strange signals to the processor. In this case I'm sure I'm fine...but it does bug me abit.
Here's a different angle. There's actually some good clearance to those belt pullies. The red alternator wire spilts to feed the alternator plug as well...that's the ball of electrical tape at the top covering my crimp connector. I read somewhere else on this forum that the alternator wire is "resistance wire" and is next to impossible to solder...I know, I tried. The factory wiring used a crimp connector so I did to.
Top view from the back of the car. The wiring is just sitting there and not really anchored to the engine. It's held in place by the big alternator and ground wire. This is where I'm going to build a dogbone mounting bracket. Along with the dogbone, it will hide alot of his unsightlyness and provide a place to firmly mount the wiring loom. The wire attached to the alternator bolt is one of many ground wires. It runs down along the frame rail utilizing a factory bracket bolt.
Here you can see that ground wire indicated by the red arrow. The light green arrow points to the positive battery supply coming from the relocated battery up front. The light blue arrow is indicating the wire that goes to the positive junction block by the shock tower...you know, the wire with the large red end in the second picture. The pink arrow shows the power supply to the starter motor. That wire is thick and hard to bend to shape! I believe it's around a 3 gauge wire and has had no problem starting the car...even in - 25* Celcius. Yes, that's right, MINUS 25* C. I have been driving this thing in the snow this winter! Actually more like sliding around as opposed to driving. The two looms highlighted by the yellow arrow aren't wires at all. They are the factory fuel lines to the duke...now to my custom fuel lines. I kept them because they are factory and I figured that if I had to, I could just order new 88 2.5 fuel lines from TFS...if they sell them.
I have the C500 loomed wires running across the engine and then between the distributor cap and thermostat housing over top of another bunch of loomed wires that feed the TPS, MAP, etc. It's a tight fit but I needed it to keep things clean looking. My planned air intake setup will cover most the sensors and mess.
Over the valley and through the woods... It's hard to tell, but along the way it feeds the alternator, alternator plug, reverse lights switch, ignition coil, instrument panel; tach, temperature light, temp guage and ...anything else?
reallybig thanks for all those pics, I found them helpful. I have mine routed very similar at this stage. I did not consider tucking the loom way up there by the window, looks great!
Driving it in the snow is the only way the Isuzu is going to survive. Haha. Because of tire slippage.
Didn't see that one coming. Luckily for me there is an 87 fiero in the local yard with the 2.5 and isuzu 5spd. Someone wiped the data sticker clean to check which trans it is. Fingers crossed it'll still be there for me to pull this weekend to keep as a spare....long live the Isuzu!
reallybig thanks for all those pics, I found them helpful. I have mine routed very similar at this stage. I did not consider tucking the loom way up there by the window, looks great!
Yes sir! I just wired my aldl, and could very well be done with all wiring. Double checks to come. I've found at least 5 things I messed up through the process. It's so easy to get lost in the wires, so easy on paper.
Yes sir! I just wired my aldl, and could very well be done with all wiring. Double checks to come. I've found at least 5 things I messed up through the process. It's so easy to get lost in the wires, so easy on paper.
I did all my double and triple checking while doing the wiring and am still second guessing myself. You couldn't have convinced me it would take as long as it did to wire everything up. I can definitely say that those $800 pre-made wiring harnesses are not over priced. The electrical control systems I work with on my day job can easily be hundreds of times more involved than what I went through with this 4.9. Still I found it tedious. All that work will be worth it when you hear your engine roar to life for the first time.
On that note, here's that video I promised a while ago...
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 04-27-2013).]
Well, I'm going to apologize in advance, but I've got all these wiring pictures I took and nothing to do with them, so I'm gonna keep posting them until I feel like they've been put them to good use.
When I started the ECM and C203 wiring to the engine, I hung them through the firewall and started trying to figure out how to run them along the engine.
You gotta love the details. I don't remember which plug it is but all three wires go to a different ECM connector. You'd think they'd all be on the same plug right next to each other but nope!
Here I've got it roughly layed out. The wires for the cruise control are kept out of the way as I don't have cruise in this car...yet.
The more progress I made running the wires, the worse everything started to look.
I only had one relay (fuel pump relay) in the engine bay drivers side corner. I started out mounting it to the hinge bracket but didn't like how it looked.
A quick measurement showed it would fit nicely under the center console at the top and above the ECM using a stock screw location.
As long as I remember where I put it, I'll be ok if it ever goes bad. This cuts down on the amount of wires going through the firewall too.
The VSS needed to feed the instrument panel and the ECM. I just ran a second wire from each of the VSS wires to the ECM connector. I taped it up temporarily until I knew for sure it worked. Well, it did work and I bet they are still taped up.
Things are starting to look better in the engine bay as the wires are finding permanent paths to their proper locations.
As the engine bay wire lengths were being determined during routing, the excess ended up on the ECM side and sure made for a daunting task. Sitting cramped in a fiero shortening wires and soldering connections is not fun when you're 6'2" tall.
I'm not a fan of pulling wires that aren't being used out of the ECM plugs. You never know when you might decide to install the Caddy heated windshield feature...then what are you goning to do? I just cut them short and put some heat shrink on the end, fold over the open end and put another piece over top to seal it up. A bit excessive but it just...well,...I guess there's really no excuse.
The letters on the C203 plug are hard to see so it helps to sharpie them on. J and K feed the injectors on the V6 but as mine was a 4cyl, the C203 didn't have wires to the engine harness. I used a couple of wires with factory ends from a spare ALDL plug I had laying around.
The more progress I made running the wires, the worse everything started to look.
This made me laugh.
It's looking great. Thanks for the detailed pics!
I've got to say that your masking tape must be of a much higher quality than mine. I could not get it to stick well, and my grubby fingers screwed a couple up so I made little tags and double stuck them to the wires with packing tape pieces. they are near permanent.
I just noticed you have heat shrink in proper colors. Nice detail! mine are sort of random...
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 01-24-2013).]
I used to paint for a living so top quality tape is a must! Yeah, the color coded heat shrink lasted as long as the supply. By the end I was lucky to find a color close to the wire.
quote
Originally posted by gen2muchwork:
This made me laugh.
It's looking great. Thanks for the detailed pics!
I've got to say that your masking tape must be of a much higher quality than mine. I could not get it to stick well, and my grubby fingers screwed a couple up so I made little tags and double stuck them to the wires with packing tape pieces. they are near permanent.
I just noticed you have heat shrink in proper colors. Nice detail! mine are sort of random...
What year is your 4.9? Mine seems to have a little more ribbing on the side of the block.
Thanks, Mark
Dude! Sorry I didn't answer your Q earlier! Somehow I missed it. My engine is a 94 sedan deville. I understand the 4.1's had little ribbing and were weak. I figured by the end of the 4.9's production run (94-95), it would be the strongest with most if not all of the manufacturing bugs worked out. As just about all of my engine parts are stamped "made in Canada", perhaps we were getting blocks from older castings North of the border?
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 02-20-2013).]
Looks like you are making good progress regardless. I had my fiasco with FOY, but FieroMaster88 found me a deal on steel rocker bridges which I'll install when I get back home in March.
------------------ 857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.
Looks like you are making good progress regardless. I had my fiasco with FOY, but FieroMaster88 found me a deal on steel rocker bridges which I'll install when I get back home in March.
I cannot tell you how much I was cheering on your engine upgrades. I't just feels like that film clip on Ace Ventura; Pet Detective when Ray Finkle misses the field goal and the Miami Dolphins lose Super Bowl 17...sick to my stomach. I am however confident that with you own talent, you will be able to put it together right and get what you were going for from the start! I guess you could say that I'm still cheering you on.
I thought I'd post a proud parent fiero related monumental life event:
My 14 year old daughter (almost 15 years old) just passed her drivers learners licence written test this week. She is now allowed to operate a motor vehicle after 5am and before midnight with an adult 18 or over with a valid drivers licence sitting next to her in the front passenger seat.
Her first experience driving a car was behind the wheel of my 1988 Pontiac Fiero with a 5spd standard 4.9 V8. Much more memorable than when I got to drive home the 84 dodge caravan with woodgrain stick on paneling. One proud Papa! Now if I can just get rid of that feeling of butterflies in my stomach and the sensation of needing to vomit, I might just get some sleep...
Getting closer to the end result as things fall into place. It sure starts to look better when everything has a place.
With the wires finding their permanent pathways, they start to all get loomed up. The fuel injector harness runs down the head with the fuel lines to a bracket I made to hold the connector. It then runs across the transmission towards the firewall. You can see the connector at the very bottom in the middle of the picture.
Here's the bracket to hold the injector harness plug.
I mounted it to one of the holes in the side of the head over top of the bracket and spacer I made for the oil filler neck.
The two holes drilled in the bracket are spaced apart for a tywrap to go around the plug. Ok, maybe not the best method but I was lacking inspiration at the time for a better idea. Of course the extra length will get trimmed off. At this point I want to bring up a pet peeve that I have about tywraps. You know what I'm going to say, when they're trimmed with side cutters and left with that razor sharp edge. You can't see it when you're working elbow deep in grease only to be sliced open in the one area of your arm that doesn't have a sleave or glove covering it. Here's my simple solution to this irritant; just score the extra length at the edge along the pass through locking knuckle. Then simply flex the extra length of tywrap back and forth a few times and it will break clean off, flush with the locking knuckle, no sharp edges (if done right). Simple and fast with no sliced arms later on.
Let's go back a bit. Here's an early picture of how I had two sensors hooked up to a modified stock bracket. On the caddy, this bracket is mounted on the firewall valve cover and looks like crap. I mounted it inboard to try to hide it a bit. Unfortunately, it got in the way of some wiring so I had to move it. Well, I guess I didn't HAVE to...I just really wanted to.
Here's the bracket without the 2 sensors on it. I trimmed off the right side so I could remount it at 90*.
I ended up making a new bracket to weld on and position the sensor where I wanted it. I also added a foot bracket to use stock threaded points on the intake manifold....and no, not the bolts that hold the manifold to the block, just the accessory locations.
Another angle.
Painted up with the two sensors mounted...I think they are the EGR solenoid and the MAP?
Mounted in place and plumbed. (long before I started the wiring)
I used the stock hard plastic lines to rubber connectors. I would heat up the like where I wanted to bend it using a lighter a few inches away until it was soft enough...unless it caught on fire first.
Once the wires were in, I didn't like the over hang on this sensor. I felt it might get in the way of the air intake body I plan on building so I marked it for trimming.
I was worried that those tabs might be used for something inside but it didn't look like it once they were cut off.
Smoothed over a bit with a file. Is it going to make a difference? No. Probably not.
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 02-26-2013).]
Here's a picture of the trans side of the engine coming together; wiring, hoses etc.
This shot just kinda brings things towards the end of the engine re-assembly. Oil filter, heater hose routing towards the trans instead of over the valve cover, and the wiring loom coming to an end. You can see the cruise control plug and wires sitting over the throttle body.
Same shot, different angle. I may have posted this one before...oh well. No one said you had to look at it.
Wiring and plug to the oil pressure switch in the oil filter housing. I used oil resistant teflon tape. It's hot a yellow tint to it...makes it look old a gross.
Different angle of the same pic just to show the way I routed the plug and wires though my oil cooler bypass tube.
With all the wires where I wanted them to go (for the most part), I pulled the ECM into the engine bay so I could adjust the wire length for the engine compartment. As much as possible, any shortening of the wires will be done inside the car to prevent possible problems with wiring connections in the engine bay. I sure don't want to chase down wiring problems in the wiring loom. Of course there will always be a few exceptions. You can see the temporary air cleaner I'm using to the right...it's a bit small but I'm secure in my engines ability to perform.
I'm running the wiring through the original fiero firewall connector that I removed and cleaned out using a heat gun. I will repack it with high temp glue gun glue. I hope it works for the long run. I have visions of a big blob of glue dripping out of that plug due to engine bay temps. I'm leaving the center slot open so I can insert a straw or thin walled tube. I'll use the straw as a passage way for more wires into the engine bay from the cab if it ever becomes a necessary. To prevent fumes from entering the cab I'll stuff the straw with insulation.
And there it is! Thanks Dairy Queen!
Careful measurements and planning mean that the completed plug just squeezes through the opening I cut into the aluminum firewall cover. This would be a bad time to find out the hole was off a bit or 90* off. I didn't really need the other opening to the right to be as big because the harness passes through from inside of the car into the engine bay...meaning that the plug is in the car. I just made them the same for a bit of harmony. The wires you see running into the insulation go to the fuel pump plug...I didn't want them in the engine bay messing up the look.
And there we go...all done. Well, at least the wiring inside of the engine bay...except for the cruise control...Ok, it's not all done...but close!
Wow. I gotta tell ya...taking month long breaks between posts is sure messing with my ability to remember where I was and what I was doing with posts and pics. I have to read back a couple of pages to make sure I'm not repeating myself...and I think I have been. The main reason I've slowed down (aside from being busy with everything) is that I've been driving the fiero in my spare time instead of posting. I had a problem with "sail on". The engine would hold a higher RPM until the car slowed down to stop. I understand this is quite dangerous with an automatic but is just a bit of an iritant with the standard. It started happening after I took a friend for an enthusiastic ride but seems to have gone away now. Check engine light still comes on and goes out on the highway from time to time. I'm waiting for the warm weather to show up for that one...Yes, it's still cold here. Got about 10 inches of snow on Sunday...1/2 gone now though. I did have a problem with what seemed like torque steer after that same enthusiastic drive. Under acceleration, the car would turn slightly to the right but correct it's self when I let off the gas. That problem isn't noticable since I pulled off the 18" rims with 225 tires and went with the stock snowflake rims and snow tires. As for the performance of the 4.9, I understand why Capt Fiero keeps pushing it for more power. Not that it isn't enough, it just feels like it has more to give. In my case I think it does b/c it's running rich. I'm going to dig into the tuning aspect this summer to get the most of the stock setup. It's really neat how you don't even need to touch the gas pedal when pulling away from a stop. Just let off the clutch and off she goes! I often cruise around town in fourth gear at 35 mph without feeling the urge to stall. Mileage isn't great b/c of the running rich problem. A full tank gets me around 250kms...I'll let all you americans do the math . It's going up hill where you really apreciate the 4.9. No more down shifting and reving the 2.5 to the redline just to make it up the hill. Simply push down on the long pedal to the right and up you go...even in 5th gear at 60mph. That's really what I wanted out of an engine swap...and the V8 rumble. I do have more pics in the camera, so here you go:
Here you can see the firewall plugs are in place as is the wiring.
A little more cleaning up of the wires and we're ready for the console.
Working on cars is always more fun when you have a helping hand to talk to. Judging by the look on his face, my youngest son, Colin, doesn't look impressed with the current topic of conversation.
That's better. He doesn't look as critical in this pic. He really loves his cars! Piles of hotwheels to keep him happy and a loop track for excitement. And it only took six children to get one like me!
The console has this sound and heat insulation glued to the inside. When I was running the 2.5 for a long road trip, the computer got screaming hot and I don't think this stuff helped with the airflow.
I pulled out the middle stuff to hopefully increase airflowability and make room for that screw on hump on the ecm.
Before putting on the console, I tucked the 4.9 cruise wires away underneath for a future project. This car really needs cruise. Probably b/c I'm getting old. I'm not sure about the ALDL though. The Fiero pins are different from the pins shown in the 4.9 wiring threads and those are different from the 94 caddy ALDL pin locations...not sure if the OBD 1.5 has anything to do with it. I hope this doesn't cause problems when trying to tune this thing better.
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 04-16-2013).]
Was wondering if you have big plans for your posting which will commemorate the 1 year anniversary of this thread on 4/26/2013? Doesn't seem like I've been following it that long but what a great documentation of the process you've gone through!
Since you are running a manual trans, I am wonderung if the idle speed motor can be deleted and the idle screw be used for setting idle. It would certainly eliminate the sail on problem.
Reallybig I was wondering if you had a condensed wiring schematic or diagram of sorts which show your engine harness to control module wiring pinout. Starting to put my thoughts together as a plan of attack for my 4.9 conversion...unless you would just want to make me a harness up.
Since you are running a manual trans, I am wonderung if the idle speed motor can be deleted and the idle screw be used for setting idle. It would certainly eliminate the sail on problem.
I'm not sure. I can't say I know much about how the computer controls modern engines. Yes, a 94 to me is considered modern. I'm learning as I go. It sounds possible but I think the computer needs the idle speed controller to do it's thing. There is a thread somewhere on this forum that tells how to deal with the sail on problem...I just can't find it right now. Anyone want to chime in?
Was wondering if you have big plans for your posting which will commemorate the 1 year anniversary of this thread on 4/26/2013? Doesn't seem like I've been following it that long but what a great documentation of the process you've gone through!
Hey, thanks for the compliment! I guess one year is worthy of celebrating. I thought about it yesterday and figured fireworks would be a suitable way to commemorate the event...
ONE YEAR!
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 04-27-2013).]
Reallybig I was wondering if you had a condensed wiring schematic or diagram of sorts which show your engine harness to control module wiring pinout. Starting to put my thoughts together as a plan of attack for my 4.9 conversion...unless you would just want to make me a harness up.
One of the great side effects of having a bad memory is that I'm not afraid to do something again that was extremely difficult simply because I had forgotten how difficult is really was the last time. I do however remember thinking that the $800 some people charge for custom wiring harnesses is actually a really good deal considering all the time and hassle I was going through. So as much as I'd honestly like to help with the harness, I'll have to pass. As for the condensed wiring print, I do have one, kinda. I was planning on drawing something up anyhow...how soon do you need them? My plans are to draw up a simpler version of what's out there that is easier to follow and reflects my cars wiring changes from factory.
It will probably be a month or two before I get to the point where I will be looking into the wiring in any great detail. Another question...are you happy with the results and how the car performs? I am not looking for a racer just a reliable runner which travels down the road good and gets fairly decent mileage...quick but not so much fast I guess.
Hey, thanks for the compliment! I guess one year is worthy of celebrating. I thought about it yesterday and figured fireworks would be a suitable way to commemorate the event...
It will probably be a month or two before I get to the point where I will be looking into the wiring in any great detail. Another question...are you happy with the results and how the car performs? I am not looking for a racer just a reliable runner which travels down the road good and gets fairly decent mileage...quick but not so much fast I guess.
One month should be enough for me to get my schematics together. I think it's a good idea to have a correct wiring print for my car now that things have been changed a bit from factory. I'll post it when I'm done with it. As for the cars performance, I'm quite satisfied. It's got more power than the car really needs which is the way I wanted it. Great sound without being too loud. So far so good in terms of reliability. It's certainly no race car. Off the line performance is great but you have to rely on the gears for power. I try to keep it away from the higher rpm b/c of the aluminum rocker bridge so I never wind it past 4k. My mileage isn't too great. Around 19mpg with mixed driving...but I'm still working on that. I'm not sure I would have been happier with any other engine swap. I didn't want the whine of an SC, A 3800 NA just feels to me like it's missing few cylinders. I didn't want an adapter plate needed for the other V8's. I considered a quad 4 but am glad I didn't as I really like that low end grunt of the 4.9. The other engine of choice for me would have been the DOHC 3.4. I like it's exotic design, high rpm and good power but decided against it b/c of stories I've heard about the timing belt. That being said, there are a lot of horror 4.9 stories that popped up in the past year. I actually like the fact that there isn't much aftermarket support for the 4.9. It prevents me from spending lots of money on adictive upgrades. If I ever do a different swap, I'm not sure what engine I'd use.
I hear you...I am not nearly as far as I hoped to be on my project, still mainly planning stage...following my kids ball games and mowing the lawn seems to consume all of my time. Don't hurry because of me, I'm sure you will still get it done before I get to the wiring point.
Haha. Because of tire slippage.
Luckily for me there is an 87 fiero in the local yard with the 2.5 and isuzu 5spd. Someone wiped the data sticker clean to check which trans it is. Fingers crossed it'll still be there for me to pull this weekend to keep as a spare....long live the Isuzu!
