Thanks for the understanding. I kinda made the mistake of offering to give a friends F250 a quick paint job for resale in April...so far I've replaced the rusted front fenders and rusted truck bed wheel arches with patch panels, smoothed out the whole body, removed and redone the interior buffed up the aluminum rims...now I just got to do the passenger side and spray on truck bed liner. So much for a two week turnaround. What the hell was I thinking.
Nolan, I keep showing up to meetings hoping to see your car for some inspiration...I'm going into withdrawl! Hopefully we will see you and your ride next Thursday!?
Well, I busted a finger this summer which slowed the progress on the f250 completely....then just haven't got back into it yet. It will be completed before the snow flies around here...then back to fiero world...and other places. In the mean time, I did get some work done on the fiero this past weekend. I changed the oil. Honestly, I can't imagine it's much fun replacing the oil filter on the stock caddy. It's right in my face every time I open the deck lid and I still managed to get oil all over the engine. Lots of places for spilled oil to collect in and be cleaned out of after.
I found a loose cradle bolt on the rear passenger side. Backed out a full 5 turns. I'm sure I torqued it down... Other side was fine. I ended up finding many of the suspension bolts had room for tightening...kinda scary.
A quick update as to how those axel support bearings are doing...here's a pic after almost a full year of casual driving; I'm happy with them so far.
All the rust removal, cleaning, painting, powder coating...ugh. I guess it'll give me something else to do when the cluch goes.
CV boot leaked grease all over the drivers side. I knew about it earlier but just let it slide. The lesson here is that if you repack your CV's, don't use the boot clips that brag about not needing the "special tool" to crimp them. Do it right the first time with the right parts.
Really?! Two coats of aluminum color and three coats of clear, and I mean HEAVY coats, and there's surface rust! I should have ground down all the rough casting to smooth them out before all that time, work and money. Just in case any of you want your work to last a bit longer.
Originally posted by Reallybig: Really?! Two coats of aluminum color and three coats of clear, and I mean HEAVY coats, and there's surface rust! I should have ground down all the rough casting to smooth them out before all that time, work and money. Just in case any of you want your work to last a bit longer.
Aren't the calipers aluminum? If so, then that is not surface rust from the calipers.
Edited to add: I haven't had stock brakes for a while, so I don't remember if they were aluminum or not.
[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 09-03-2013).]
Aren't the calipers aluminum? If so, then that is not surface rust from the calipers.
Edited to add: I haven't had stock brakes for a while, so I don't remember if they were aluminum or not.
Nope. Well, kind of. The 88 calipers are a two part setup. The back half with the piston in it is made of aluminum with a cast iron bridge bolted to it. The bridge is the part with the pads in it. I sand blasted the bridges, filed down the casting ribs, but left the casting texture on the rest of it. I wanted to file/sand them smooth but back then it would have taken too long and figured this would work just fine and save some time. Well, I did save time.
Sure... I guess I could do that much . I can't say much has changed though other than the slow deterioration of the engine bay and all my hard work! I've been busy with so many other projects (not to mention work) that I haven't had much time for improvements on her . I think I'm gonna have to start moving on the custom air intake so I can beat someone else to it! Besides, it's just so much fun to drive that I don't want to pull her off the road to do any work this summer. But I do have a few "must do" items. I'll get you a few new pics tomorrow!
Really?! Two coats of aluminum color and three coats of clear, and I mean HEAVY coats, and there's surface rust! I should have ground down all the rough casting to smooth them out before all that time, work and money. Just in case any of you want your work to last a bit longer.
Where did you find the axle support bearing? I have been looking for a set. Thanks!
I bought mine from the Fiero Store online over 2 years ago. They seem to still be holding up fine. I wasn't sure how long the seals would last as they don't allow for as much deflection as the stock trans axle seals did... but shouldn't need it as the support bearing helps to keep the axle in one place. So far so good! Keep in mind, they are a real pain to install if the trans is in the car... they definitely don't just slide in with a tippy tap of a hammer. At least mine didn't.
If I ever get around to redoing them, I will definitely have them powder coated. But first I will painstakingly sand/file down all the ugly sand casting until they look smooth as a set of Brembo calipers. I will also soak them in this rust remover solution I seen for sale at Canadian Tire. Those 88 fiero caliper bridges are really porous and it seems like the rust is inside the metal! I sandblasted mine till they looked like new but the rust was still in there!
As promised... An updated photo of my seventh child. It's nice to get the snow tires off and put on a set of summer rubber, but sure makes the manual steering much more difficult!
Then there's the sorry state of the engine bay. Definitely not a garage kept show piece that gets driven with respect. I'm really not happy with how poorly the engine paint held out. And yes, I did all the prep work as recommended. How does that slogan go?.... "Duplicolor; Yes you can!" They need to change it to "Duplicolor; Yes you can!...but probably shouldn't. At least not with Duplicolor" Ok, maybe I'm being a bit harsh, but come on! Those cracked paint chips make the average Dorito look tiny!
I really got to get on to making a replacement for that air cleaner. I've got a lawn mower with a bigger filter!
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 07-03-2014).]
If I ever get around to redoing them, I will definitely have them powder coated. But first I will painstakingly sand/file down all the ugly sand casting until they look smooth as a set of Brembo calipers. I will also soak them in this rust remover solution I seen for sale at Canadian Tire. Those 88 fiero caliper bridges are really porous and it seems like the rust is inside the metal! I sandblasted mine till they looked like new but the rust was still in there!
Check out this thread I started about a low cost rust converter. 15 bucks a gallon and does a great job. Someone mentioned concrete cleaner, which may remove rust, but I don't know if it converts it and leaves a finish suitable for paint or powder coat.
Check out this thread I started about a low cost rust converter. 15 bucks a gallon and does a great job. Someone mentioned concrete cleaner, which may remove rust, but I don't know if it converts it and leaves a finish suitable for paint or powder coat.
If you don't mind slow rust removal mix one part of Molasses with 9 parts of water, mix thoroughly. Then submerge the rusted parts in the solution for a full week or two. The parts will come out looking like new without resorting to toxic chemicals. Its a trick that the old timers used before rust removers were invented. It works and its cheap.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by Reallybig: ...I think I'm gonna have to start moving on the custom air intake so I can beat someone else to it! ....
I'll give you a head start... (probably be another month before I get to mine) I've got mine completely designed in my head...generally a bad place for my ideas to be
If I ever get around to redoing them, I will definitely have them powder coated...
Hopefully you haven't been preparing your calipers for repainting all this time.
I just wanted to add that I bought the cheapest red metal paint (a knockoff of Rustoleum) that I could find at either Home Depot or Rona, and it's been fine for five years on the aluminum calipers on my '84 (and '86 GT). A year ago I used the same paint on the steel calipers of my '88 Formula... same measure of success. No rust. All I did to prepare the calipers for paint was to apply acetone with an old toothbrush and wipe them down. It's not spray paint, it was brushed on (two coats). Maybe that's the secret.
Someone "warned" me that this paint wouldn't stand up to the heat generated by the brakes. Four years of autocross with the '84 and one year of autocross with the '88 have proven otherwise.
I'll have to go look at the can and post the brand name here when I get the chance.
[EDIT] Ok, I finally found the can hidden away in my basement. It's called Armor Coat, and the (just under) 1L can at Canadian Tire is currently priced at $8.99... quite a bit cheaper I believe than other rust paints. No primer is necessary, and it's held up very well. I used "Fire Red" on the calipers, and after painting 12 of them, I still have half a can of paint left.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-15-2015).]
Hopefully you haven't been preparing your calipers for repainting all this time.
I just wanted to add that I bought the cheapest red metal paint (a knockoff of Rustoleum) that I could find at either Home Depot or Rona, and it's been fine for five years on the aluminum calipers on my '84. A year ago I used the same paint on the steel calipers of my '88 Formula... same measure of success. No rust. All I did to prepare the calipers for paint was to apply acetone with an old toothbrush and wipe them down. It's not spray paint, it was brushed on (two coats). Maybe that's the secret.
Someone "warned" me that this paint wouldn't stand up to the heat generated by the brakes. Four years of autocross with the '84 and one year with the '88 proved otherwise.
I'll have to go look at the can and post the brand name here when I get the chance.
Thanks Patrick, that would be valuable info to have. Funny how sometimes the simplest methods can be the most effective. I have a habit of going overboard with prepping stuff for paint and i'm almost sure its the cause of most of my problems. I haven't been redoing the calipers this whole time but did get $4000 in hail damage to the fiero this past summer as the independent adjuster claimed. Or $2600 by the body shops estimate. Or $1800 if you ask my cost cutting insurance company.
Okay, I've edited my previous post to show the info. Hope it might come in handy for you or anyone else reading this.
Thanks Patrick. I'll probably pick up a can and give a try when my calipers come off. I was going to use the normal baked on caliper paint (VHT I think?) but maybe this stuff will hold up better.
Had to replace one of the fuel lines in the engine bay. It was cracked all around the outside and on the inside! I would normally accept the accusation that early deterioration was a result of being mounted above the exhaust manifold in the engine bay, but so is the return line right under it... and it's fine. Probably just old stock high pressure fuel line from the parts store.
Hey man, just read through your thread entirely... linked from reading through Neils88 thread in its entirety...
Just curious about where you ended up with your suspension... you had cut off 1.5 coils and you were going to try to determine if that would leave you at stock ride height and if more would be needed... what did you end up doing? Is this pic with the springs cut as shown earlier in the thread or did you go back in and do something else?
Thanks and this was a great read!
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-12-2016).]
Well, since we are going to wake up Reallybig anyways... My vavle covers peeled to heck just like yours. What did you end up fixing them with for prep and paint. I had used the vht hi temp stuff and it failed. anything special for the magnesium?
Edit: hey wait a minute... where is your oil fill?!
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 04-14-2016).]
Hey man, just read through your thread entirely... linked from reading through Neils88 thread in its entirety...
Reallybig's thread should be required reading for anyone doing the 4.9L swap! Glad you read mine too, though...
quote
Originally posted by gen2muchwork:
Well, since we are going to wake up Reallybig anyways... My vavle covers peeled to heck just like yours. What did you end up fixing them with for prep and paint. I had used the vht hi temp stuff and it failed. anything special for the magnesium?
Edit: hey wait a minute... where is your oil fill?!
I used VHT as well...I baked them in the oven (while the wife was out ) for quite a while. They have held up well...but I do have some cracks in the paint. Could be that that is the first sign of impending paint failure. The cracks appeared early after painting, but then seemed to stop. The paint still feels solid with no lifting. However...I guess I'll have to drop in that V12 just in case...
Hey man, just read through your thread entirely... linked from reading through Neils88 thread in its entirety...
Just curious about where you ended up with your suspension... you had cut off 1.5 coils and you were going to try to determine if that would leave you at stock ride height and if more would be needed... what did you end up doing? Is this pic with the springs cut as shown earlier in the thread or did you go back in and do something else?
Hey, thanks for the wake up call! That picture is as the car sits after all and any modifications mentioned in my thread. Keep in mind that I did use the stock isolator spring pads which would have resulted in a 3/8" lower stance up front if I had not put them back in. I was afraid of squeeky metal on metal without them. I would like to get some of Rodney's 1" lowering front 88 ball-joints though. One day. A side note would be to mention that the tires in the picture are about 3/4" larger in diameter than stock fiero tires
Well, since we are going to wake up Reallybig anyways... My vavle covers peeled to heck just like yours. What did you end up fixing them with for prep and paint. I had used the vht hi temp stuff and it failed. anything special for the magnesium?
Edit: hey wait a minute... where is your oil fill?!
I haven't had the fiero on the road for about a year now. I started fixing the hail damage and things get out of control pretty fast. That coupled with a whole lot of life's twists and turns leaves it in pieces in the garage waiting for the roof to get painted and the interior roof panel to get recovered and the windshield to be replaced and the instrument cluster to be upgraded.... Back to your question...I'm happy to report no additional paint peeling in the last year! But before I pulled her into the garage, the valve covers were pretty much naked. The odd chip hanging in there for fear of being swept away. I think the big problem is that the magnesium gets saturated with the oil and it doesn't want to allow paint to stick. I will burn out the oil next time along with a good long soak in lacquer thinner and try powder coating.
As for the oil filler... I really wanted a clean look (and will get it once I eventually build my custom air cleaner) sigh. So I custom made an angled oil filler tube that goes through the side of the valve cover where the factory filtered air breather tube was connected. I just had to make a larger hole to fit a different rubber grommet. It's bolted to the side of the head and also serves as the fresh air crank case inlet. You can see the chrome round cap on the left side of the bottom valve cover in the pic. There are also better pics of it earlier in my thread.
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 04-16-2016).]
I just looked up my thread.... I miss updating it! But not like there's much to update. It is back on the road... hail damage fixed for the most part. Roof repainted black... which is a nice subtle custom touch I think. Currently rolling on 16" cavalier 5 spoke rims with snow tires... despite not having any snow on the ground!?!?¿ Sorry to say but from whereI live... this global warming is actually an improvement!😮 I drive the fiero year round and despite the occasional momentary check engine light on the highway... it's still a blast to drive!!! The clear coat is coming of in a hurry and age is taking an affect on both of us. But there's always more to do. It will never truely be a finished car as long as I have it. I will have to take some pics and post soon.
Chances are the Isuzu will break before the flywheel.
Well, as predicted, the isuzu finally died. But 6 years of dedicated year round service was pretty good I think... so what transmission to put in next?
My spare isuzu from an 87!
I have a NOS 5spd getrag from a cavalier I think, came with factory covers on all the openings to protect the internals. I'll swap it in later next year I think, along with a new clutch , TO bearing, etc. But for right nowI ģotta get her on the road so I can enjoy the weather before the snow hits in October.
Find a Getrag or maybe a F23 to use instead of the isuzu?
You can try to find a mid to late 80's Beretta/Cavalier/Sunbird FWD Getrag and bolt it in with Rodney's bracket. These boxes are reportedly stronger than the Fiero unit and easier to find. You wlll probably need the 5 speed shifter ( not sure if the Isuzu will work), flywheel, clutch and slave unit. Here is the info: Rodney Dickman Getrag info
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
He stated that he has a NOS Getrag from a Cavalier that he will install at a later date.....
Oops, I blew that one but hopefully the link helps someone out. It seems lots of guys tried the relatively inexpensive , lightweight 4.9L swap (including one that I did myself), but you hear so little about it anymore.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Oops, I blew that one but hopefully, the link helps someone out. It seems lots of guys tried the relatively inexpensive, lightweight 4.9L swap (including one that I did myself), but you hear so little about it anymore.
That's because a great deal of the V8 Fiero guys have moved over to a V8 Fiero's specific group. In order to get away from the small number of people here that seem to start fights with anyone not choosing to run a 3800. I have been hesitant to start a build thread here for that reason myself. ( 87GT 6.0 LS Turbo 5spd build )
------------------ 857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT , 5spd Custom Exhaust. MS3 Gold Box 6.0 LS Turbo.
Price Drop!!! Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front. For Sale $3750 USD
I love my 4.9 FORMULA! It's a great power train for a Fiero!
The 4.9L is an excellent choice for high torque and reasonably good highway mileage. It gives great performance in the power band that most drivers use on the street and on the highway. I chose to do the 4.9L auto swap for its smooth cruising ability and for the reliability of the engine. Haven't run it yet but on a longer trip , it cruises below 2000 RPM, and it has to run quieter than my 3800SC that leaves your head buzzing after a couple of hours. As for the Capt; I don't believe that anyone here is saying that the 3800SC is the only choice. No swap gives everything and each swap has its unique benefits and weaknesses. Recently more LS4's and Ecotech swaps are being done by guys here. You just swap what you like.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
. I think I'm gonna have to start moving on the custom air intake so I can beat someone else to it! Besides, it's just so much fun to drive that I don't want to pull her off the road to do any work this summer. But I do have a few "must do" items. I'll get you a few new pics tomorrow!
It's not spray paint, it was brushed on (two coats). Maybe that's the secret.
Glad you read mine too, though... 
) for quite a while. They have held up well...but I do have some cracks in the paint. Could be that that is the first sign of impending paint failure. The cracks appeared early after painting, but then seemed to stop. The paint still feels solid with no lifting. However...I guess I'll have to drop in that V12 just in case... 
