This build started off as a idea for me and a buddy at work to build a couple of fun sporty cars that got decent fuel milage. His car of choice was a 92 nissan 240 and I said it would have to be a GM car for me. I searched the net and found 3800 Fiero's and I new that was what I had to build. I remember my uncle having Fiero GT when I was younger and I thought it was an awesome car then. I got the car for $750 dollars and the wrecked donor car for $800, but now I had to figure out how to combine the two. After another web search I found this forum and hours and hours of looking through build threads I thought I had a good direction. I have not done any kind of swap before or have ever taken on a job this big, so my work is not professional. I do hope that it is good enough to some day join the number of build threads that I could not have done this without, I can not thank you guys enough for posts and pictures. Also I am new to forum, if some one could tell me how to post pics properly it would be much appreciated. Thank you for reading my thread I will try to post pics and info as soon and as much as I can.
------------------ 86GT, 3800SC, GETRAG
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 05-15-2012).]
These are some pics of the car the day I bought it. It was a basket case, the motor and trans are in the bed of my truck at the time the pic was taken. Didn't care because I knew I wasn't going to use the motor anyhow.
After some poly motor mounts from WCF and some new axles, bearings, balljoints, poly suspension bushings, toe links, and seals it is actually starting to look like something
I decided to make my own lower alt mount because I coudn't see spending all the money to buy one when I have a welder and some scrap metal. It may not look professional, but it works and was a whole lot cheaper this way.
------------------ 86GT, 3800SC, GETRAG
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 05-15-2012).]
I decided to make my own lower alt mount because I coudn't see spending all the money to buy one when I have a welder and some scrap metal. It may not look professional, but it works and was a whole lot cheaper this way.
Thanks for the compliment, I was wondering what people would think about the way I decided mount the alternator. The only problem was after remounting the alternator I had to figure out how to re-route the belt and use the tensioner to make it work. I decided to make a idler pulley and change the style of pulley used by the tensioner.
Notice the extra pulley directly above to the right of the water pump pulley
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 05-08-2012).]
I might install the PS drive axel and articulate it through the full suspension travel; looks like it may come close to your low-mount alt.? It may also be sticking out too far, could cause clearance issues w/ the rear trunk wall?
I took alot of measurments before hand and took the axle as high as the control arm will go and then set it up in the car to check to see if it would hit anything. I have alot room between it and the trunk and it would have to bend the frame or control arm before the axle would it it. I tried to think of everything, but as earlier stated I am by no means a professional. This is the kind of comments I love, because you might be able to think of ways to help me improve what I have done. Everyone knows two heads are better than one. LOL
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 05-08-2012).]
After I finished the lower alternater mount I wanted to move on to the exhaust. I checked out what everyone had been doing and the main thing I have decided is that I deffinetlly want to keep my trunk the way it is. I seen that in order to run headers that some people were cutting part of thier trunk out. I decided to use a zzp power log and make my own for the back and try to run duals.
I wanted each side to have close to the same flow so I tried to duplicate the power log on the rear of the motor. I changed to turn out so I could run true duals and use the factory cross over to run the other side.
I almost for got to show the pic of where I welded in the bung for the O2 sensor. Only running O2 sensor in one side, it should be good enough to allow it to run properly.
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 05-10-2012).]
Yes, I plan on having them turn out to the normal exhaust outlets. I will be using Magnaflow mufflers with 4the inch tips on the end of the mufflers. Will look similar but probably not as good as the red rulookin fiero build thread, if you have seen it.
These are some pics of how both sides of the exhaust turned out.
Exhaust looks nice!
So you checked and double checked that PS axle to Alt. clearance, right? Looking at the pics above, Its gonna be close... Or maybe its just the angle that is throwing me off...
Also, make sure the CV joint is sitting in the cup. I tore a new boot because it slipped out and from the pressure of the bearing pressing against the rubber boot overnight, it popped through
It is close, but the control arm can set completely against the upper frame and I still have about an inch and a half clearance. I 'll watch the axles and maybe find a way to support the control arm, I didn't even think about that, thank you.
Taking a min. To look at pic I see what you mean about the axle clearance. It actually goes in between the alternater and the motor as it moves, it does look deceiving.
Taking a min. To look at pic I see what you mean about the axle clearance. It actually goes in between the alternater and the motor as it moves, it does look deceiving.
Ya, kinda hard to tell just from a pic But now that you mention it, I do see how it is i nbetween...
Make sure that alt. wire stays clear of the rear manifold... The wiring on my 3800 swap was one area I must have redun several times. Wanted to make it invisable while still staying clear of hot/moving parts...
But now that you mention it, I do see how it is i nbetween...
