so close but not yet i guess i am being very careful with my trimming i am off by a 1/4 inch and the water pump pulley is just hitting and the passenger side motor mount needs some grinding due t it is hitting the front cradle stirrup mount
How much lower does that motor sit in the engine bay than the Fiero motor did? Or compared to a LS4 swap?
Wonder why an LS motor could never do a longitudinal layout like that? - Is it the lack of a fwd transaxle? (using adapter plates takes up precious room?)
[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 09-01-2012).]
Forgive me if you mentioned this before: What car is that engine out of specifically? Was there a plastic cover over the engine of some sort? I'm trying to picture what this motor usually looked like, as a quick google image search yields about a dozen different engine cover layouts.
[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 09-01-2012).]
That looks awesome! I can't wait to hear an exhaust clip. That intake manifold would look awesome chromed or painted the same color as the car. Great work! -Josh
the top of the engine is about a few inches lower then the stock 2.8 . i need to get some new plastic covers and it would look nice if i sanded and polished that intake no need to chrome it is aluminum and can be polished and the engine came out of a 1998 Audi A8 it has 299 HP from the factory internals are all forged including the pistons . thanks for the comments i am having a ball building this
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-01-2012).]
Wonder why an LS motor could never do a longitudinal layout like that? - Is it the lack of a fwd transaxle? (using adapter plates takes up precious room?)
LS engines are much too long. The Audi has a 91mm bore center. The LS and Chevy engines have 111.8 mm bore center
Yes the LS engine would be a big challenge but it could be done if you used this transmission but it would be allot of work and money as you need the special clutch set up for this transmission
Originally posted by Will: LS engines are much too long. The Audi has a 91mm bore center. The LS and Chevy engines have 111.8 mm bore center
Thank you! Was always curious. If you happen to have the numbers, what's the measurements of a Subie Boxer, or other very "short" (lengthwise) engine blocks?
If i where to do a 6 cylinder longitudinal i would use a 4.3 Chevy v6 1996 and up they have good cylinder heads and they are short enough to work but have good displacement and Kennedy engineering has adapter plates and flywheels . I tried talking a friend into this swap but he has a racing 4.3 V6 with Brodix # 10 little brodie's all ported and solid lifter roller cam it makes around 430 HP na at the crank
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-01-2012).]
no real reason just i found a disk for $69 on ebay so i bought it. it maybe tough to take off smooth with it but we will see as i have driven solid hub clutches before just not on the street
i should have the rear suspension on by the end of the week then in a few weeks i will buy the plug for the Vems ecu and wire that up then all i will need is to buy the Vems ecu with it all programed and just plug it in and it should run
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-02-2012).]
The springs in the clutch hub only serve to silence gear rattle in the transmission. They have no effect on the driver's ability to modulate the clutch (until they come out of their sockets in the hub and jam the release mechanism, that is)
What trans are you running and do you know the gear ratios? From doing some quick searches, it looks like the 01E code ARX would be great with the ABZ 4.2L engine in a Fiero. Can't wait to see this thing running and driving.
[This message has been edited by tampalinc (edited 09-03-2012).]
I have the 012 transmission it is a 5 speed that is used in 97-99 boxsters and it is in VW passat and the A4 mine is out of a 2001 passat that had a 2.8 . If i upgrade the power with turbos in the future then i will get the 01E or if i blow this trans up i will get the 01E 6 speed
the passat axle look to be the right length and it they are about 4 3/4 off center with the hub i have been tempted to see if i could press the fiero hub out and press in a passat hub as they are the same bolt pattern 5 x 100 . If i could just find what the dimension are of the bearing in the fiero hub assembly
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-03-2012).]
the passat axle look to be the right length and it they are about 4 3/4 off center with the hub i have been tempted to see if i could press the fiero hub out and press in a passat hub as they are the same bolt pattern 5 x 100 . If i could just find what the dimension are of the bearing in the fiero hub assembly
Check out this site: http://catalog.prec-auto.com/ It's an online catalog for Precision wheel bearings. When you pull up the bearing, you can click on "attributes" and it will have all of the dimensions for that particular bearing.
OK i thought i would share how i plan on solving the drive axle issue out at the wheels . first i will have the machine shop machine off the spindle of the VW outer cv joint and bore a hole then i will have them machine off the Fiero spindle with extra material then i will have them take the fiero spindle with the extra material and turn it down to fit the hole in the VW CV joint with a press fit i will also leave a step so it sits square then just weld around it all done now you have a cv joint that fits the passat axles with a fiero spindle end
How tough would it be to have the outer end VW axle re-ground to the correct dia and spline count to fit into the Fiero C/V joint? Then it would be as easy as sticking a Fiero C/V on a VW shaft. Also would make any future C/V repairs easy.
[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 09-04-2012).]
you could do that but you are still in the same boat if the axle breaks then you need another resplined so no matter what way you go there is going to be something. I just figure my local shop can do this where if the axle needs to be resplined it needs to be sent away
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-05-2012).]
OK what i am ending up doing is make it use all stock parts. so the knuckle will be machined to except these Audi A6 bearings and the VW passat 5 x 112 wheel bolt pattern hubs that will be pressed in and then i can just use stock VW passat axles. i will need to re-drill the rotor to 5x112 or the hub to 5x100
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-05-2012).]
I am going with a standalone computer for the engine so do i leave the stock computer in the car and only hook up the Gauge connections to the engine or how is it done
OK what i am ending up doing is make it use all stock parts. so the knuckle will be machined to except these Audi A6 bearings and the VW passat 5 x 112 wheel bolt pattern hubs that will be pressed in and then i can just use stock VW passat axles. i will need to re-drill the rotor to 5x112 or the hub to 5x100
You probably need to check fitment to the 88 upright to make sure there is material in the location of the new mounting pattern.
I am going with a standalone computer for the engine so do i leave the stock computer in the car and only hook up the Gauge connections to the engine or how is it done
The gauges are just operated by sensors and not dependent on the ECM. The problem you are going to have is making the tach work with COP ignition and the speedo work with a VW speed sensor. The Fiero speed sensor is a permanent magnet generator producing 4000 pulses per mile. You would need to find out what style sensor is used in the VW tranny and how many PPM it puts out. I'm not too sure how to marry the two. I would suggest downloading the 88 factory service manual if you haven't already.
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