That should be NPT thread going into the manifold. Home Depot Racing or Lowe's Motorsport should have the right size pipe plug for that. Use brass with external hex for easiest removal in the future.
EDIT: D-Ohh... nevermind.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-14-2014).]
That should be NPT thread going into the manifold. Home Depot Racing or Lowe's Motorsport should have the right size pipe plug for that. Use brass with external hex for easiest removal in the future.
EDIT: D-Ohh... nevermind.
hey, where were you yesterday? I thought about an external hex, but couldn't come up with a reason to ever use the port so I chose the allan head in stainless.
Got some miscellaneous crap done last night. Cleaned up some wires, attached throttle cable, I used a 87 4cyl cable and snipped the "extra" end off of it. Fit nice. mounted fuel pump relay. tried fitting some coolant hoses, but I need to buy some different ones. passenger tube to pump a little too short. nothing close for the drivers side. Heater hose... I know the caddy hose has a step down, but still would require an adapter, which is not really a big deal but It would be nice having something that does not require that.
I could not locate a hose locally that would make the journey from thermostat to driver side pipe. So I got the closest thing I could and had to add a little bit. It's ok with me.
the gm/bars leak pellet things. Cadillac aspirin. I hear mixed opinions, I'm leaning towards adding them.
I asked that question around at a parts place here and the old guy at the counter looked at me like I had two heads. Then he said that may have been required originally, but the new coolants meet all the requirements and make it not necessary (of course take into account that he didn't know what I was talking about to start with....). Since I couldn't easily find them I decided not to worry about it.
I did the same thing with my coolant hose as well. Unfortunately the original one is just a bit too short. But since it has all the correct bends, makes sense to keep it and just extend it a bit.
Wrapping this up. Little things are taking forever. Had a problem with my thermostat housing leaking. had a thin rust spot that let go. I found a new donor in the yard and had it welded up. The shop did it for free for some unknown reason and I'm really happy about that. I've never been there before but they have a new customer. I also had problems with that stupid heater line quick connect that exists on the 87-88 by the fuel filter. It had 2 orings and a plastic spacer. Where did the spacer go? I have no clue, I must have lost it. I used a 3rd o ring in place of the spacer and it seems to work for now. My chip is visiting stickpony currently Really, all I have left are some ground wires, address the air intake, mount the map sensor, and do some cleanup, make the speedo doodad. then it starts?
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 10-21-2014).]
When reassembled, even with new parts, the quick connects of that era tend to leak. They are not a design improvement over a hose clamp, they were designed to speed assembly on the assembly line...... BTW, the white powder on the connector is from seepage....
[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 10-22-2014).]
When reassembled, even with new parts, the quick connects of that era tend to leak. They are not a day sign improvement over a hose clamp, they were designed to speed assembly on the assembly line...... BTW, the white powder on the connector is from seepage....
You always have good advice Joe, perhaps I should just put the connector out of its misery. I couldn't come up with any reason I would need a disconnect there. I guess I'll spill some more coolant tonight.
I had previously planned, assuming the wrong thing, to not have an egr system thinking it could be programmed out without consequence. I have now added the egr and solenoid for my engine and will reap the benefits of the system. I'm moving on to the inside and getting the computer and c203 all hooked up pretty like. getting very close to first start.
I had previously planned, assuming the wrong thing, to not have an egr system thinking it could be programmed out without consequence. I have now added the egr and solenoid for my engine and will reap the benefits of the system. I'm moving on to the inside and getting the computer and c203 all hooked up pretty like. getting very close to first start.
Your chip is in the mail sir. you will have it tuesday/wednesday time frame
I had previously planned, assuming the wrong thing, to not have an egr system thinking it could be programmed out without consequence. I have now added the egr and solenoid for my engine and will reap the benefits of the system. I'm moving on to the inside and getting the computer and c203 all hooked up pretty like. getting very close to first start.
Make sure you have a video camera ready for that first start!!!! Can't wait to see and hear it run!!!
Make sure you have a video camera ready for that first start!!!! Can't wait to see and hear it run!!!
I've got it on the charger for the big moment. might still be a week or so before I get the time to finish, but I did get to the yard to find an intake tube.
This was from some truck, It was in a dakota, but laying there, so it could have come from anywhere. I looked at a absolute ton of tubes and none looked quite right, but i think this will do for now. I also bought some nice ground cables and have them installed. I could connect the battery if i desired at this point. thats exciting.
then I found this, but as timing is everything, it still sits there. I dont have the ability to pursue the alante intake at this point, had it appeared a few weeks ago, i may have considered it. I might still go back for the rockers. IDK. the good news is one of the runners had a dent so it feels better leaving it there.
they also had a pretty sweet datsun there, I have not ever seen this particular yard put a whole car out for sale before.
runs! I still have some issues. something is screwy with the trans, a noise in park when revved. probably linkage related i hope. I'll get more into that soon. got a cel after hitting temp, but have not read any codes yet. I have to buy a cable.
And I have to add some exhaust out the back. Thanks again!
got it timed, have not had the cel return. Trans still makes a noise in park and Neutral, but not in gear. It's not horrible, Maybe it will get better or worse sooner or later it's not my linkage though. Best description I can give would be that something in there that spins relative to rpm, but faster or more times per rev. than engine that wants to catch like a light ratchety kinda sound. its probably something that will get worse and require trans removal again at some point. The trans was cheap at least, and they seem available still for cheap locally. maybe I'll take it for a spin this weekend.
Awesome! Congratulations! Looking forward to you getting it out for a spin. (sorry, got nothing to offer on the auto tranny, except make sure the fluid is topped up)
Hit the road this weekend! It goes really good in 1st gear.
I hope I wired the 7 pin connector wrong. I'm really confused by that connector. I have the 3 different pinouts for it, but my brain is not processing it. I have it wired and verified to mickey moose's wiring diagram. I have 12v at pin A and E. Reverse works, forward works in any position but I don't feel any shifts, I end up in a neutral like condition when I should have shifted.
My trans is a 2AMW trans. Can anyone help me understand the differences in wiring at that connector? Is a 2amw a pressure switch trans? I really wish I would have pulled the cover earlier to be sure. If it is a pressure switch version trans there is no pwm solenoid? just some discrete sw that I don't understand. ugh.
this is how i wired it^^ have I confused the trans by letting the 4th cl. discrete sw. connect to the pwm input at ecu? so simple?
if I disconnect the pwm wire at "B" I might be ok? this trans just does not do the pwm thing and uses an accumulator? What becomes of the discrete switches? are they also not needed? they dont exist on the non pressure switch models, Does my ecu need to see those? The shift solenoids seem to go to the same place F&G on all, and Tcc on A for both.
I find little bits and pieces about problems people had with amw trans wiring, they seemed to solve it, but without really posting what it was.
There's no reference to the AMW not being pwm, so maybe my trans is just bad. I suppose theres no harm wiring it as the pressure switch type and seeing what happens. Its only one less wire. My worry is that somehow it has 94-95 wiring in it and I zapped something, but it is clearly coded 2amw so it shouldn't.
You do have the 4 wire transmission shift switch hooked up also right? Also that switch grounds through the ground wire of the other 7 wire connector so make sure you have that one grounded.
Any chance you tried scanning it with TunerPro? I see transmission information is available via TunerPro - ie which gear it is in - and what the the VCC should be doing.
Power steering switch input is wired to switched +12 right?
You do have the 4 wire transmission shift switch hooked up also right? Also that switch grounds through the ground wire of the other 7 wire connector so make sure you have that one grounded.
Any chance you tried scanning it with TunerPro? I see transmission information is available via TunerPro - ie which gear it is in - and what the the VCC should be doing.
Power steering switch input is wired to switched +12 right?
I'll have to double check all of those things tonight. I have not bought your cable yet. might be doing that sooner than later...
I'll have to double check all of those things tonight. I have not bought your cable yet. might be doing that sooner than later...
it is also possible that my range switch is not adjusted right. I starts in park, but I never double checked beyond that. I thought I lined it up with something though, been a long time.
You do have the 4 wire transmission shift switch hooked up also right? Also that switch grounds through the ground wire of the other 7 wire connector so make sure you have that one grounded.
Any chance you tried scanning it with TunerPro? I see transmission information is available via TunerPro - ie which gear it is in - and what the the VCC should be doing.
Power steering switch input is wired to switched +12 right?
ok hopefully you can still help here, The square 7 wire is grounded correctly ecu p/s input has 12v the round 7 pin has 12v and tcc brake 12v I'll have to triple check the 4 pin to the ecu, but the colors match so the chances of me screwing that up are slim.
What can I do to test the function of the range switch? I see the diagram of the prndl switch and its contacts but I'm not 100% on what terminals should do what in each gear. I'm using mickey mooses diagram
one thing I find interesting is that I have a wire in pin c of the square 7 pin for the brake switch and I'm not sure why I put one there, and where I put the other end. I have to hunt for it, but its not a ground, and does not appear to have power
another thing worth mentioning is that this trans had a different range switch on it the wires were different, maybe some were thicker and the starter went right through it or something. I changed it to one from another cadillac with the correctly wired one for my swap, but it ioo was from the junkyard so maybe there is a problem there, but the wires were done as that diagram says.
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 11-04-2014).]
Correct for the ECM functions the only wire on the 7 pin that makes any difference is the ground wire, and since you are reading ground at the right pins that means the ground is wired correctly.
Your ECM is programmed for the transmission you are using? 2240 programmed as a 92?
Perhaps a bad ECM (easier to swap) or a bad transmission.
Did you monitor the wires to the transmission to see if the ECM is grounding the solenoids? You should see a change on at least one of them when it should be shifting into second. I don't know exactly which solenoid should be energized when but you should see a change on at least one wire from the ECM.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-04-2014).]
Correct for the ECM functions the only wire on the 7 pin that makes any difference is the ground wire, and since you are reading ground at the right pins that means the ground is wired correctly.
Your ECM is programmed for the transmission you are using? 2240 programmed as a 92?
Perhaps a bad ECM (easier to swap) or a bad transmission.
Did you monitor the wires to the transmission to see if the ECM is grounding the solenoids? You should see a change on at least one of them when it should be shifting into second. I don't know exactly which solenoid should be energized when but you should see a change on at least one wire from the ECM.
I'll look into monitoring those wires tonight. I should just be able to probe shift a then b to ground at the ecu?
I'll also be checking the prndl switch for function, since I think I get how to read it. I really think there may be a problem here, I had quickly probed the terminals in od yesterday and could swear only one pin was grounded If that was not a mistake, maybe that is my problem. It would appear no shifter position should result in only one pin grounded on that 4 wire.
As far as the ECM, I had stickpony do it. I gave him the brodcast code so I think it would be correct. Its a 2240 but I thought mickey moose diagrams are 93, but I thought 92-93 were the same, maybe a problem I did not expect here?
If its a transmission, Im out of the game for a while. Not giving up, just running out of time. My 2nd daughter is due dec 16. I've made a big push to try to be done with this before then. at least the miles would stay low
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 11-04-2014).]
pen
