I was unsure from reading your thread what the trans was from. 3.33 final and 35/35 makes the swap......37/33 and the 3.06 makes for a slug. Save up the money, spend it for a pro rebuild and enjoy your car next year. They know what they are doing and will upgrade the internals to the latest and greatest....with a warranty.
My confusion is contagious. I have the 3.33 diff but 2.97 final. But it does not matter much with only 1st gear. I don't know what I'm going to do, for the near future my budget will not accommodate any option. I can replace it for $80-350, I could try to rebuild it myself for $3-400, or pay someone some large amount to do it. If I change the ratios, I'd have to have my chip reprogrammed too.
I'm going to pull the cradle again and get the trans out. Unless you think there is some magic way to free it all up, I don't think I can access the other valves without removing the valve body anyways, and I dont think I can do that in the car or if it would even be worth it.
We'll see what the winter holds, but dont hold your breath. For now my miles stay low, and at least the engine seems ok. Snow is falling. So close. Thanks for the advice.
So, If I decide to try to rebuild this there are a couple of special expensive tools required. Can I fudge without them? one holds a clutch assembly together during disassembly/assembly, one pulls a clip off the final drive, and another strange one for another clutch disassembly. If I were to buy the tools new I could buy a new trans instead, so if i can get away with an alternative, maybe I can attempt it. Anyone know?
My confusion is contagious. I have the 3.33 diff but 2.97 final. But it does not matter much with only 1st gear. I don't know what I'm going to do, for the near future my budget will not accommodate any option. I can replace it for $80-350, I could try to rebuild it myself for $3-400, or pay someone some large amount to do it. If I change the ratios, I'd have to have my chip reprogrammed too.
I'm going to pull the cradle again and get the trans out. Unless you think there is some magic way to free it all up, I don't think I can access the other valves without removing the valve body anyways, and I dont think I can do that in the car or if it would even be worth it.
We'll see what the winter holds, but dont hold your breath. For now my miles stay low, and at least the engine seems ok. Snow is falling. So close. Thanks for the advice.
don't worry about the reprogramming, i'll give you one modification fre of charge, just pay for the return shipping
why not just find a low mileage tranny from another 91-93 deville/seville/eldorado in the boenyard or from a wrecker service? and the 2.97:1 isn't a dog, its just not as quick as the 3.33:1, you sacrifice a little off the line punch for soem fuel economy.
I'm still on the fence about rebuilding what I have, If I can do it right it makes sense to rebuild it myself. If I screw it up... well not so worth it. I'll be saving some cash after the holidays and I'm sure I can make a decision based on what's around in the yards vs the rebuild. I've watched a bunch of videos and read a lot, so I think I can do it. IDK.
well, it was late and cold and dark but I had a few hrs to spend. I think this will be the last trans that I replace alone. That sucker was tough to get in there without some more muscle. maybe this weekend I'll get it back in the car where it belongs, but it feels good to have the engine and trans on the cradle together again. I used my cable puller on my garage steel beam. My front mount is a pita to get to after its on the dolly so i just tilted it up on the trans side, leaving only the front mount connected.
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 01-28-2015).]
so, I broke my extractor in a bleeder trying to get it out, so I decided to replace my rear brakes. New hoses, reman calipers. I've read of everyones experiance with the reman rears. My experience has been the same so far. I got one nice looking one, nice surfaces all around, and allan bolts with stock looking piston. The other was possibly a boat anchor for a few years, the surfaces were not so nice, and the piston looks different, with only one cutout for brake pad tab. both appear to be functional though. I've got a ton more bleeding to do.
I read a few people having problems with the brake line clips installation and wanted to note that the line has two tabs that seat into the bracket at approx 6 and 9 oclock. clip will never fit unless they are positioned correctly. This can be tricky if like me you have older fittings and lines and dont want to twist the line unscrewing it. if the fitting is frozen the line may have to be carefully twisted to get these tabs in place, mine did not have too far to turn before they fit well. maybe 10 degrees.
I've got the new trans in, and the cradle back in the car. I'm going to be finished hopefully in a handfull of hours. over the next week.
I had a really annoying series of leaks at my water neck/thermostat. Im using grafted fiero t-stat neck+cadillac flange. I ended up having to use a gutted "blank" thermostat with the rubber seal at the base. Not sure if the cold temps created an issue, this didn't cause a problem last time. Radiator cap had stuck vent and had tricked me for a minute as well. Parts guys can't give me right cap yet, thankfully I came armed with the knowledge from radiator cap gurus here and did not buy wrong ones. cleaned cap and it works ok for now. Battery hates -10 degrees and was old, one really bad cell, maybe froze. replaced battery. Starts great now!! Took a trip to the gas station and filled her up with premium. Hit the gas a few times and was quite pleased. What's left? 1. Need to do the temp gauge fix. totally forgot about that. 2 Add the tail pipes. 3 Wait for warm weather to enjoy a drive.
I can't express correctly my appreciation for the help that I got from everyone through my first swap, but THANKS!!
I'll pull out the good camera for some finished pics tonight. The coolant leak made a bit of a mess, that is cleaned up for the most part but I cant use water right now as it turns to ice instantly, either on the engine or my floor.
The exhaust is rather quiet at idle, with a nice tone but it sure roars when you step on it. One the tail pipes are on I'll take a video.
I have a question regarding the temp gauge fix. From what I can tell, It shouldn't matter that I did the engine swap, other than the 3 wire single sensor. I'd rather switch the wires at c500 rather than the sensor. thats ok right? then the ones in the dash follow suit.
Well, I took some great pics with the better camera. now where is the cord that plugs into the computer? I'll find it sooner or later. For now, I got the tail pipes on, bent at the local top value, they did the bends for no charge and I thought that was cool of them.
I ended up going a little more horizontal than in the photos. they were pointed a little too much towards the sky. overall I'm happy with the outcome for what I have invested in the exhaust, which was very inexpensive. It sounds even better with the tails in place. I only have a handfull of little cosmetic things left to do to be satisfied calling this done. Now, if the salt everywhere would go away...
I know nearly everyone has had some experience with the oil light at idle. I need to double check with mechanical gauge. I really don't like the light at hot idle, but its a used sender on an 87 gauge so it is probably not as scary as it seems, or maybe it's really bad. idk yet. does show 30-40psi above 1200rpm, and my tach is probably off a bit. engine does not sound starving.
Put a gage on it for piece of mind, but its probably OK. Idle oil pressure is low compared to other engines.
yeah, I'm not broken hearted yet. I knew going into it the oil pressure is commonly low enough at idle to set the light. I just didn't expect to be so uncomfortable without a reliable reading in my face. I'm thinking a cheapo autometer 0-60psi gauge should do the job, but I'd rather have the stock one work for me. I read a thread about a mod with an adj pot for the gauge, but never saw anyone actually try it. perhaps I will if my pressure turns out ok.
You can add a low value resistor to the circuit (something like 3-5 ohms) to keep the light off. I always add a quart of LUCAS when changing the oil. My light had flickered for years, the additive helps. A buddy was worried about it in his car, had a new oil pump installed, no change. The pump design does not build much pressure at low RPM.
You can add a low value resistor to the circuit (something like 3-5 ohms) to keep the light off. I always add a quart of LUCAS when changing the oil. My light had flickered for years, the additive helps. A buddy was worried about it in his car, had a new oil pump installed, no change. The pump design does not build much pressure at low RPM.
that sounds familiar to a thread I was reading from jgunsett with the problems he was having. same guy? anyways, I think I'll pull one from the yard to modify when I get around to it. My insurance is back on may 1st so I'll be able to get some drive time in if it warms up.
Ok, did an oil change and bumped up to a 40w plus the lucas. It's better, but still a light flicker at hot idle. I feel pretty comfortable it's at least getting oil. my exhaust is all hung up complete and I have no worries of it falling off down the road.
Next I have to address the idle. I suspected it would give me problems based on all the 4.9 idle threads, and it did. I suspected someone had messed with the adjustments at one time, the isc screw had a regular hex bolt in it rather than the special one I had seen on the junkyard ones. One thing is certain though, with the isc retracted I am still too high, without the plunger touching I'm sitting around 900rpm. My guess is someone messed with the min. air screw. We will see how fun that adjustment is tonight? Feels like a heat wave above 25 degrees here so I'm bound to complete something.
Glad I have not been driving it yet, my license expired last month and I didn't even notice. Luckily I was able to renew by internet.
The 4.9 is well known for having low oil pressure at idle from all the research I've done. Probably why Cadillac never put a pressure gauge in the car, just a dummy light that comes on when there is NO pressure. With the standard trans, I had the idle upped in programming to help keep the pressure there, but it still gets damn near zero when the engine gets hot. When cold, the oil pressure is pegged at high. I will actually apply a bit of throttle at times when idling at a light. Hasn't caused any problems so far!
The 4.9 is well known for having low oil pressure at idle from all the research I've done. Probably why Cadillac never put a pressure gauge in the car, just a dummy light that comes on when there is NO pressure. With the standard trans, I had the idle upped in programming to help keep the pressure there, but it still gets damn near zero when the engine gets hot. When cold, the oil pressure is pegged at high. I will actually apply a bit of throttle at times when idling at a light. Hasn't caused any problems so far!
I'll get used to it. My idle speed is perfect now and controlled by isc. my guess is someone adjusted it for a dirty throttle body. That little air screw sure is hidden in there. I'm really happy I had a tool that fit it without having to buy a funny little bent t-20, or pull the isc.
I'm bummed about the tire though, it was down to 20psi this morning. I'll have to investigate. There not great tires, but I had hoped to use them up for the season, and they had the meat left to do it.
My exhaust is great. inside the cabin its not nearly as loud as I had expected has a great tone and will purr at idle and bark at wot. The 3.33 has made a significant improvement. I'm really pleased with the whole swap. It's better than I expected. I think I can officailly call the swap done, plenty more to do with the car though.
I'm not sure I should use this tire anymore after the flat. I had to drive it about 2 blocks home. It wore a bit of the sidewall, just enough that I am concerned. what do you think?
the leak ended up being at the rim where a wheel weight was. I pulled the weight off, and the leak is now so small I can probably use some bead seal and it will hold... tiny bubbles
I would replace the tire. You may be able to seal the leak by smacking the tire (not the wheel) with a large mallet near the bead.
I probably should replace it. maybe I'll bust the bead and see what the inside looks like, but I expect it to be as bad as the outside. The positive of this is my back tires were on their way out, and the wrong size. All 4 were 205/60/15. I had aaron program me for 215's knowing that I would eventually change them. It just came sooner than later. maybe I should get those $600 pirelli's I knew the options were somewhat limited in tires for this size, I like the T/A's but I will probably just get some ohtsu's. the price is right and they are as soft as I can find without spending an arm and a leg for a tire that is still not a performance tire. I should save for some new rims in the next few seasons.
We have been running 215/60/15 front, 225/60/15 rear on our Formulas. Better ride, stance and grip.
hmm, perhaps I'll bump up to that. I have a ton of meat on my fronts though. maybe I'll just get the 215's then move them to the front next year and purchase 225's for the rear at that time. Your formulas look great from the few pics I've seen. Of course If I had just bought your formula to begin with it would have come with the tires...
Took it to the expressway. was good, then not so good. Exhaust note changed, check engine light and a misfire. I suspected egr problem, but to my surprise that plug I put in the exhaust manifold had disappeared and quickly burned through a spark plug wire causing that situation. Not too sure how I lost the plug, the threads feel ok and I'll put a new plug in with some luck it will stick there this time. Good news I didn't torch any wiring.
Took it to the expressway. was good, then not so good. Exhaust note changed, check engine light and a misfire. I suspected egr problem, but to my surprise that plug I put in the exhaust manifold had disappeared and quickly burned through a spark plug wire causing that situation. Not too sure how I lost the plug, the threads feel ok and I'll put a new plug in with some luck it will stick there this time. Good news I didn't torch any wiring.
Have you thought of welding the hole shut? Maybe it's overkill, but unlikely that you'll ever use it.
