I did think of welding, but they are cast. I think I would be better off finding a non- airtube manifold. For now new plug in. Hope it holds. Used longer one this time.
I did think of welding, but they are cast. I think I would be better off finding a non- airtube manifold. For now new plug in. Hope it holds. Used longer one this time.
I welded the O2 hole and the outlet from the cast manifold with no issues. Just do a little at a time.
Neils88, you have made a lot of fabricating look easy. I think I'd have to farm that one out myself. anyways, the yards are full of cadillacs. I ended up with an airtube model because someone had already dropped a junk cradle so it was super easy to get. I'm sure I could replace it for <$30 and some bloody knuckles if the plug fails again. I used some threadlock this time, even though it will probably burn off maybe it will still do something. The new plug sure grabbed threads at less depth and seems possibly more secure. Time will tell.
I have to straighten a backing plate in the rear. its really annoying. I bent them pretty good accidentally when the strut was unbolted. One side I fixed great. not so great on the other side I guess.
More thoughts on oil pressure gauge. GM used a handfull of senders 60-80-120?. Would a 0-60 be a better choice to run the gauge? Obviously my numbers would be irrevelant, but perhaps would free up the lower scale of the gauge to deal with the 0-10 being close to non-existant now.
I think the problem is that I used a 4 wire oil pressure switch. I think I'd get a more accurate reading with the 3 wire. 120 vs 80 psi sender I guess. I've successfully ignored it and went for a nice long drive down the expressway. Drove nice, kept a good temp sounded good. Something is not right with my shifting still. I seem to get all gears but hit rev limiter still in 1st gear at wot, under normal throttle shifts fine before revlimiter. I've not driven a vcc converter before, but it seems to not lock up so solid. my understanding is that it is designed to slip, but still should lock at some point. mine does not seem to get to lock. I did get a cel after 5 miles or so at 70 with light throttle. I need to find out what that is. Could be egr, o2, trans lock etc. I'm going to have to get a cable to get much further. I suspect my pwm solenoid or tcc solenoid or valve stuck. After emails with Aaron he is leaning more towards a wiring problem, so I will verify tcc and pwm wiring to ecu. I know shift a/b wires are good, checked that with the last trans. I can hear the tcc on off solenoid if power is applied. I have to check ohms of pwm solenoid. I am going to replace the terminals in the round 7 pin. I think I've probed them and removed them enough times to leave them as suspect. I have to verify that the 4 wire position switch is sending correct signals, but it used to and I lined it up right. I put a new vac. modulator on. It's the adjustable type. I'm at 4 turns in, it feels ok but maybe could be firmer. No strange noises pump whines or anything. My chip has not been modified since trans swap, but vss tooth count the same even though gear ratio different, should not be an issue? I'll figure this out...
I've been putting a few miles on slowly. My idle was becoming sort of erratic, and my isc sounded like it was slowing down when hot, so I took it apart. The grease was caked up and hard. The whole thing was filthy. the throttle closed contacts were not releasing effectively. Took about an hour. not too bad.
starts like this once off the throttle body. 3 nuts hold bracket, 3 studs hold cover
cover comes off guts exposed. Dont let the motor fall off if you can help it.
gears all slide out. the metal motor gear has a d shaped slot
I guess it's worth mentioning, I had some sail-on. It got worse as I followed procedure. It's all good now, but the only specs that worked were min. idle at 450 not 5 or 550. 0.58v at throttle stop, not 0.5 or 0.55 I have correct idle now, no sail on. Ready to drive some more. I do see how everyone gets confused with the isc. While it does move to control idle, the tps is in fact the boss of idle.
Making matters more confusing the 2240 PCM also has two idle speeds. A moving idle and a stopped/nearly stopped idle speed. Fun stuff!
Nice work on the isc. They work much better once cleaned up.
What did you get on the ISC extended voltage? I usually aim for as close to 1.21v as possible.
I set it to whatever the manual had called for extended, but I didnt check it after I adjusted the tps the final time. I would expect that it is higher than that now by a little.
I did do some just for fun stuff last night. My speakers were really bad in the dash.
been a while... Finally got some data acquisition going. Using tuner pro RT, homemade cable. I got a uart ttl/usb doodad from amazon for $10 and it worked great! I had been going back and forth over buying phonedawgs cable, or just making something similar. His looks better and plugs in nicer and would be worth the $$ if I was worried about those things.
says my tps is causing problems. This was a surprise to me. I had tested it, and it seemed to sweep smoothly, but there must have been a funny spot somewhere.
I proceeded to break off both mounting screws for the tps to the throttle body
I removed the TB and the metal gasket took out my finger. ouch.
drilled out the screws, tapped and fixed. all back together and runs great. Usually I don't even think of pulling it out of the garage in the winter, but it was 50F and sunny so I took it out for a 50 mile drive. throttle response is much better. It used to throw a cel after 5-25 miles and stick on, it would also affect my ildle a little once the light was on.
Now, I think I have an egr valve issue, I still get a cel at light throttle on the expressway that goes out ofter a second or a few minutes. I think maybe my vac line is too restricted to the egr. The line I used has a very small port on the end that may not be allowing it to act quick enough. but I'll get to that, I need to take the laptop with me next drive.
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 02-08-2016).]
