So, my HUD was from a 1996 Grand Prix and i needed a wiring pinout. Here are the pinouts for 2 newer HUD's:
1994-1996 HUD wiring:
A1: BROWN - HUD on/off A2: GRAY/BLACK - PARK LAMPS on A3: EMPTY A4: DARK GREEN - VSS A5: TAN - OIL PRESSURE A6: DARK GREEN/WHITE - LOW FUEL A7: LIGHT BLUE - LEFT turn A8: BLACK - GROUND
B1: YELLOW - HUD up B2: BROWN - HUD down B3: LIGHT BLUE - E/M conversion B4: BROWN - CHARGE indicator B5: DARK GREEN - COOLANT temp B6: LIGHT GREEN - HIGH BEAMS B7: DARK BLUE - RIGHT turn B8: WHITE - DISPLAY Dimmer
1997+ HUD wiring:
A1: BROWN - HUD on/off A2: BROWN - CHARGE indicator A3: TAN - OIL PRESSURE A4: DARK GREEN - COOLANT temp A5: DARK GREEN - SERIAL DATA) this is to the radio. A6: WHITE - DISPLAY Dimmer A7: DARK GREEN - VSS A8: BLACK - GROUND
B1: YELLOW - HUD up B2: BROWN - HUD down B3: LIGHT BLUE - E/M conversion, ground for metric B4: DARK GREEN/WHITE - LOW FUEL B5: LIGHT GREEN - HIGH BEAMS B6: EMPTY B7: LIGHT BLUE - LEFT turn B8: DARK BLUE - RIGHT turn
1994-2003 Grand Prix HUD switches:
Row 1: A: PNK Switched 12v Ignition Feed B: GRY Dimming signal C: WHT HUD display dimming signal, to HUD unit A6 D: Blank
Row 2: E: YEL Mirror motor UP, to HUD unit B1 F: BRN HUD switch output G: BLK ground H: BRN Mirror motor DOWN, to HUD unit B2
So, first here is what the whole HUD unit looks like and the HUD dimmer/up+down switch.
I was thinking that maybe I could put the HUD dimmer/up+down switch in the power window plate, but I have power mirrors...
Plus I decided to use a fog light switch that I found. It fits nicely below the trunk popper.
Since the whole HUD wouldn't fit in the dash, I took it apart. You can strip it down to the circuit board, ribbon cable and display.
Like most people I noticed a double image on the windshield. However, I noticed that when I pointed the image up into the tinted portion of the windshield, the double image vanished (second picture)...
I cut the plastic housing up so that the circuit board would be protected in the dash without shorting against something metal. Ignore the IDE cable in the picture, I thought that I could use it to extend the HUD display. I was going to need more length if I was going to point it up into the tint. Well, the IDE cable didn't work...
So, I did it the hard way... Cut and splice... Make sure those wires don't touch...
I couldn't get it where I wanted it.. So I put it in the dash.
The image ended up right in the center of the windshield. Great location, but I have that double image...
[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 09-01-2012).]
So, what wires did I hookup specifically? 1994-1996 HUD wiring:
A1: BROWN - HUD on/off.................. Fog Lamp switch (also connect B4-Power and A8-Ground) A2: GRAY/BLACK - PARK LAMPS on..... N/A A3: EMPTY..................................... N/A A4: DARK GREEN - VSS..................... 7730 ECM (jscott1 uses a pin on the 88 speedo, someone else said there was another pin but it didn't work for me) A5: TAN - OIL PRESSURE.................. N/A A6: DARK GREEN/WHITE - LOW FUEL... N/A A7: LIGHT BLUE - LEFT turn............... C3 pin 2 A8: BLACK - GROUND........................ C3 pin 11
B1: YELLOW - HUD up....................... N/A B2: BROWN - HUD down.................... N/A B3: LIGHT BLUE - E/M conversion........ N/A B4: BROWN - CHARGE indicator........... C3 pin 5 B5: DARK GREEN - COOLANT temp....... N/A B6: LIGHT GREEN - HIGH BEAMS.......... C3 pin 12 B7: DARK BLUE - RIGHT turn............... C3 pin 4 B8: WHITE - DISPLAY Dimmer............. N/A
Fog Lamp switch also needs connected to B4 for Power and A8 for Ground
[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 09-01-2012).]
As I'm sure you are now aware, by removing the optics from the assembly you significantly reduce the quality and effectiveness of the HUD display. The OEM optics serve 1) to enlarge the projected image, and 2) to focus the image at infinity, so it is projected down the road and you don't have to constantly refocus your eyes to read it.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-01-2012).]
Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: As I'm sure you are now aware, by removing the optics from the assembly you significantly reduce the quality and effectiveness of the HUD display. The OEM optics serve 1) to enlarge the projected image, and 2) to focus the image at infinity, so it is projected down the road and you don't have to constantly refocus your eyes to read it.
Yup. I knew that going into it. I hooked up the whole HUD unit and the up+down switch. I even tried using the mirrors with the unit out of the HUD. I figured that I could cut the mirrors down and build something to mount them on. I may still go back and do that, but it would be a static location on the windshield. When I get around to doing the Firebird dash I will modify it like jscott1 did.
I am not as technically capable as these fellas are. We messed around with HUDs and I found for $0 dollars I could install this one and place it wherever I wanted.
... I found for $0 dollars I could install this one and place it wherever I wanted.
$0 ... yeah, right. $0 after the cost of the phone itself and the monthly cost of service, that is. Does it display warnings and advisories for oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temperature, high beams, and turn signals? Does it include custom optics to project the display at infinity? Your phone may work just fine for you, and that's OK, but you're comparing apples to oranges.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-02-2012).]
I am not as technically capable as these fellas are. We messed around with HUDs and I found for $0 dollars I could install this one and place it wherever I wanted.
Yes, I tried that App on my phone. It is nice, but my phone is a phone. I could also throw my TomTom up in the window and leave it plugged in.
Mostly this was just something to mod my car. I have always loved the Firebird dash swap jscott1 did. He must have used a different HUD because the pins on mine didn't match his. I posted the two other pinouts I found and the fact that I extended the wires. I didn't know if it could be done since they are so thin, but it can be done.
The only issue for me is not having the 88 speedo for the 4,000ppm, but I was upgrading to the 7730 ecm anyways... Which gives me the 4,000ppm that I need.
Just a small FYI, not sure if it would help anyone... But in the old days, I used to mount my CB-radio over the center console (just in front of the back window) so that I can see the signal level and the channel in my windshield. So.. Maybe the HUD can be mounted there somehow and reflect much the same way?
[This message has been edited by Purple86GT (edited 09-06-2012).]
$0 ... yeah, right. $0 after the cost of the phone itself and the monthly cost of service, that is. Does it display warnings and advisories for oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temperature, high beams, and turn signals? Does it include custom optics to project the display at infinity? Your phone may work just fine for you, and that's OK, but you're comparing apples to oranges.
No, as far as I know it doesn't display any of those but it does tell me temperature, weather, and street names which the HUDs don't seem to do. I more mentioned it as an option for those who don't have the technical abilities some folks have but want to mock HUD expierience or just want to try some stuff. Yes, I had to get a phone (mine was free by the way) and yes I have a monthly bill for my phone ($50 monthly thru Verizon with unlimited data, unlimited text, 2000 minutes) but many people have phones. I didn't mean to offend you by offering it up to others. It was meant as an "I don't have the abilities you have so I settled for second place" option for HUDs.
I didn't mean to offend you by offering it up to others.
No offense taken, but as I said before, you're comparing apples to oranges. The essential defining characteristic of a HUD is the optics that project the displayed image through the windshield so your eyes don't have to refocus. I use a dash-mounted GPS, too, but it's not a HUD.
I know people mention tint as a way to stop the double image. What about a clear piece of film of some sort...like Invisaguard or something?
Do you have a piece of clear film? If so, throw it in an envelope, I will try it and post pictures. I have not tried using a piece of tint yet. The tint I mentioned is the factory tint on the top of the window.
I know a buddy of mine broke his windshield on a 240sx with hud and instead of paying the extra cost for a hud windshield, after research he found that certain cell phone covers work perfect. Dont know if it helps any
Using some tint does stop the double image. The issue that I have is I put the HUD image in my line of sight. That would make the tint a pain for normal driving.
I used this same method in the mid 80's for voltage meters on amplifiers in the rear of my truck reflected off the back glass of the SnugTop. Worked like a champ!!!.
quote
Originally posted by Purple86GT:
Just a small FYI, not sure if it would help anyone... But in the old days, I used to mount my CB-radio over the center console (just in front of the back window) so that I can see the signal level and the channel in my windshield. So.. Maybe the HUD can be mounted there somehow and reflect much the same way?
I know a buddy of mine broke his windshield on a 240sx with hud and instead of paying the extra cost for a hud windshield, after research he found that certain cell phone covers work perfect. Dont know if it helps any
I suspect the double image comes from the clear glass and the outer laminate. Putting some piece of film on the inside of the glass to reflect the bulk of the image should reduce or eliminate the double image effect. I imagine that's why cell phone screen covers work. I'd try a clear window tint (maybe 3M Crystalline). I don't recall spending any time in a GM HUD-equipped car, but I recently spent a couple days in a new 328i with one and the HUD's film was clearly visible in the window. I'm sure there always needs to be something serving as a "screen" where the HUD is projected.
[This message has been edited by thesameguy (edited 08-01-2013).]
Yes, I tried that App on my phone. It is nice, but my phone is a phone. I could also throw my TomTom up in the window and leave it plugged in.
Mostly this was just something to mod my car. I have always loved the Firebird dash swap jscott1 did. He must have used a different HUD because the pins on mine didn't match his. I posted the two other pinouts I found and the fact that I extended the wires. I didn't know if it could be done since they are so thin, but it can be done.
The only issue for me is not having the 88 speedo for the 4,000ppm, but I was upgrading to the 7730 ecm anyways... Which gives me the 4,000ppm that I need.
It's been over a decade since I did my HUD, I'm not sure which Bonneville it was from anymore. I have a newer model one in my parts room with the electric up/down. It's on my list of things to do to give myself an upgrade next time my dash is out. After 11 years of the Firebird dash it's time to freshen it up a bit.
I just realized today that I never took a pic of the HUD in action... well here it is. I'm holding the camera below eye level so it puts the image more in the line of sight than it would normally appear. But yeah I have the double images too. If you could get it low enough you could use tint or a coating on the glass and it wouldn't be too distracting.
FWIW - regarding cellphone HUD, if you have an old android cellphone laying around that no longer has service, I can tell you that you can still download apps from Google play (over wi-fi) and GPS will still operate. I don't know about other OS, but I've been using my old HTC as a GPS for over a year since I deactivated it.
jscott1 you honor me! Yours was my motivation for cramming it in there.
If I had mounted it so the image would be lower, a small piece of window tint would fix the problem. Putting the HUD image right at eye level was a mistake... but hindsight is 20/20.
Not really. I have done it on 3 Fieros now. The one in the purple car is hooked up to a newer gm cd player so I see the channel changes. I also hooked up the turn signals and high beam indicators.
A1: BROWN - HUD on/off A2: BROWN - CHARGE indicator A3: TAN - OIL PRESSURE A4: DARK GREEN - COOLANT temp A5: DARK GREEN - SERIAL DATA) this is to the radio. A6: WHITE - DISPLAY Dimmer A7: DARK GREEN - VSS A8: BLACK - GROUND
B1: YELLOW - HUD up B2: BROWN - HUD down B3: LIGHT BLUE - E/M conversion, ground for metric B4: DARK GREEN/WHITE - LOW FUEL B5: LIGHT GREEN - HIGH BEAMS B6: EMPTY B7: LIGHT BLUE - LEFT turn B8: DARK BLUE - RIGHT turn
1994-2003 Grand Prix HUD switches:
Row 1: A: PNK Switched 12v Ignition Feed B: GRY Dimming signal C: WHT HUD display dimming signal, to HUD unit A6 D: Blank
Row 2: E: YEL Mirror motor UP, to HUD unit B1 F: BRN HUD switch output G: BLK ground H: BRN Mirror motor DOWN, to HUD unit B2
So I pulled a HUD w/ dimmer control (and even the ENG/MET/TRAC CNTL panel because wires were attached to it). The setup is from a '98 GP and now I'd like to bench test it. Hopefully there's no reason this shouldn't be done, because I don't know that it works.
So, do I apply 12V+ to the dimmer control A1 PINK? I guess both grounds need to be to ground from the HUD and dimmer control? Anything else imperative to hook up?
[This message has been edited by mental floss (edited 01-01-2015).]
Okay, it works. Didn't need the charge wire connected, just connected PINK to 12V+, and both GROUNDS to negative terminal. I expected it to be brighter than it is though. Thanks for that pin out posting and response.
Try hooking up the dimmer and see if you can make it brighter. As there is a light sensor that goes bad... try opening it up and putting a piece of tape over it, or at least make sure you are in a dark room...
There's a dimmer other than the dial dimmer? EDIT: I had the dimmer hooked up and it worked. Just expected brighter. I'll try it tomorrow in the dark. I did have the room overhead light on tonight.
[This message has been edited by mental floss (edited 01-02-2015).]
Found a 2001 Aztec with HUD in a yard, so I pulled it after reading a post here that they have a red display. It appears the difference is a red gel in place where the GP HUD has a clear gel. Flip a HUD unit over and look at the heat sink. There is a clear gel sandwiched in there for most. The Aztec is red. Might be the only difference. The plugs and wiring is not the same as the 1998 era GP, so you can't just swap them. I'm going to try to swap gels.
[This message has been edited by mental floss (edited 01-10-2015).]
