I bought a LS4 package to install in my 88 Formula. After looking things over and comparing this and that I came to the realization this thing is MASSIVE. Compared to my 2.8. So I decided to try and install the LS4 bearing into the 88 knuckle, this would give me the factory drive-train all the way to the wheels.




I bought a low mileage OEM Delco non-ABS Grand Prix bearing at Morris Rose Salvage to play with. I then measured and compared the hub to flange widths and found them to be about the same.




The shoulder fits between the the bolt holes.



So I started to tear the LS4 bearing apart.



This cover was glued down tight with some green stuff.







I used a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe as a spacer to pull the bearing race off.




I expected the bearing race would come off hard but pulled off relatively easy.





I ground down an old bi-metal sawzall blade and carefully tapped out the grease seal. I wish I could purchase new seals but these are throw-away bearings, so I doubt they are available.



All the parts



This shoulder measured about .375" and centers the bearing on the knuckle.



Here is how deep I would have to bore into the knuckle. I decided to go for it; but if I were to do it over I would face off about .125" from the bearing shoulder to move farther away from the brake flange.



The knuckle is bored to accept the bearing, I allso have the seal sleeve installed with Loctite instant gasket.
I can always turn up a bushing and install the factory wheel bearing if I have to.





This is the wear line left from the balls.



If I spot face for the bolt heads down to the flange face; I am concerned about leaving enough metal for strength.



.082" then becomes the race thickness at this point.



.202" is going to be my minimum



I notched and drilled a 5/16 grade 8 washer and did not spot face as deep. I can live with .208". The spot face on the bearing flange is below the washer.
I didn't want to take any chances with the bolt head clamping down near the bearing race and distorting something.



This sharp edge had to be smoothed off so the seal wouldn't snag on assembly. There was a plug I knocked out of the wheel flange and drille out to 3/4", I still had to use my die grinder to elongate it towards the hub center to get my allen bolts threw.



Some trial fitting and the bearing seal is turned up. The seal is a SKF 19630. This seal will only fit the OEM Delco Bearing, Chinese and other aftermarket wheel bearings wont work with this seal.



I had to trim down the ABS reluctance wheel/clip retainer for seal clearence. I turned up a piece of aluminum with a .050" shoulder to get the depth I needed on assembly.



Going back together





I opened up a old bearing race with my dremel tool to use as a spacer when I pressed the race back together.





Some more Loctite Instant Gasket before I drop in the bearing











There is .045" between the top of the bolt heads and back side of the wheel lugs bolts. If I were to go with thicker washers; so I wouldn't have to spot face as deep, I would cut down the allen bolt heads a touch.



.010" gap between the stub axel and and seal sleeve, if I here any strange noises back there; this will be my "wear indicator"



Finally all together!



A trial fit



Now I will have to waite and see how well this experiment works.I have about another years worth of work, before I am done with the project.

[This message has been edited by Jims88 (edited 03-01-2018).]

Great write-up and excellent pictures! Way to go thinking outside the box (a metal lathe sure opens up the possibilities) I'll be curious to see how well that 0.010" clearance between the CV joint housing and the knuckle plays out in practice.

Great writeup! Mind sharing a picture of the fixture you used to hold the upright in place when you bored it? When I did mine for the S10 wheel bearing the new hole diameter was constant, so I bored from the inside out. With your stepped hole, you had to have bored it outside in.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 09-16-2012).]

Thank You Bloozberry,
Yea I'm a littel nervous about the .010" clearance. If some metal flakes show up the easiest fix may be chamfering the seal sleeve or maybe a thin washer on the axel.

Thank You Fieroguru,
Brilliant observation about boring the hole, fact is I cheated and outsourced it.
After talking with 3 different machinist, 2 of which would'nt touch it for liability reasons; I found a guy who had access to a machine that auto-centers itself and machines the hole with 1/2" end mill.

Had I known you were doing them, i would have ordered my spare knuckles to be done!!

I am dying to go to that bolt pattern here in the near future.

darkhorizon,

PM me when your ready and I will see if I can hook you up,

I noticed some rotational resistance in the bearing after I had torqued the bolts to 62 ft/lbs.
It wasn't much, at first I thought it was just seal drag but I had to be sure, so I took it back apart.



Turns out; the plastic bearing cage was touching the knuckle and left a shinny ring.


I then noticed the bearing cage sticking up .040" off the shoulder.



I rigged up my dremel tool in my drill press on the cross slide rotory table and ground some clearence.



Back together again, for good I hope.

any updates. i am very interested in how well this works

Please keep this updated!

Is this a bearing off a Corvette?? I'm confused about the LS4 name you've mentioned.

Thanks,

------------------
fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.

I think grand prix gxp.

Its a front wheel bearing from a stock LS4 application: Grand Prix GXP | Monte Carlo SS | Impala SS | Lacrosse Super

quote Originally posted by Jims88: I expected the bearing race would come off hard but pulled off relatively easy.

I think this is the problem most of the time when replacement hubs loosen up without other material failures.

Did you tack weld the inner races to the spindle? That might be a good idea...

quote Originally posted by Will: I think this is the problem most of the time when replacement hubs loosen up without other material failures. Did you tack weld the inner races to the spindle? That might be a good idea...

Interesting idea Will,
The Grand Prix wheel bearings use a precision ground 2 piece, C type retaining clip, which is secured by pressing on the ABS reluctance wheel/clip retainer.
If the axel nut were to loosen up, it would have no effect on the bearing preload.