Bubba, I will be moving the battery to the front eventually. I'm trying to keep the upper part of the trunk just in case I need to carry a couple refreshments.
[This message has been edited by Nebraska (edited 12-20-2012).]
The next problem with the Northstar/Audi adaption was the starter location. The starter for the northstar is under the intake between the cylinder heads. Another many hours of thinking how to mount the starter with this engine/trany combo. What I did was to remove the original Northstar starter and try to mount it in the typical GM spot. I almost got it to fit but there were clearance issues. So I started looking at other starters what I ended up with was a aftermarket high torque offset starter for a GM small block. I had to make a new mounting plate to make it fit. Here are a couple pics.
The other issues were the alternator an A/C pump. I originally was going to make custom brackets but It was easier just to mount them in their stock location fab up a power steering delete idler pulley. After looking at the power steering pump I knew it had the right size pulley and had bearings and mounted easily to the northstar. So I removed the resovior and took the pump apart and removed the parts that made it a pump. Now I had a idler pulley that was the correct size and mounted easily to the northstar with just one bolt. I siliconed the input and output of the pump closed, just to keep out the water and dirt. No custom brackets to fab and I can use the stock belt ! That was easier than I thought.
I wish I had the shop (and yeah, the skills!) to do this kind of fabrication. Looks great!
I don't have a fancy shop or fancy tools. You can do alot with a welder and a sawzall when it comes to metal. The most precise thing was the adapter and I had to buy that and modify it. By the way I do not have alot of $$$'s either. For skils, anyone can learn those. And for technical questions, this is a great Forum to get them answered. This project, looking at the posts looks like I have been only working on it for a couple months but it has been about 3 years. If you have a project in mind please post your ideas and let the Fourm guide you through it. and thanks for the compliement !
Ok, here it is, I figured I would get this pic in before I put the cradle/engineback in for hopefully the last time. Since it is streched I had room for my best welders.
I do have a question for Bubba Joe or anyone else that knows anything about Northstars and cooling systems.
Which way does the coolant flow through the Northstar ??
The other question is if I'm using a radiator with the tanks on the sides which way is the best for the coolant flow through it ?? (top to bottom or bottom to top, see pic below)
I do have a question for Bubba Joe or anyone else that knows anything about Northstars and cooling systems.
Which way does the coolant flow through the Northstar ??
The other question is if I'm using a radiator with the tanks on the sides which way is the best for the coolant flow through it ?? (top to bottom or bottom to top, see pic below)
in trough the heads out from the waterpump you conect the waterpump out to the top of the rad the in to the bottom the outlet is at the water pump where the t'stat is
I also did some searching on the forum and it confirmed your info.
So, here is how I'm going to plumb the main cooling lines. Out of the water pump, at the t-stat to the right (drivers side) Fiero cooling tube to the top of the radiator. Then from the bottom of the radiator to the left (passenger side) Fiero cooling tube to the Northstar's water log top.
I got the engine/cradle in and about 95% of the wiring. I did hook up the battery and turn the engine over and verifed the fuel pump relay came on than off. Next I going to hook up a pc to the ALDL connector and verify the ECM is working and test some of the sensors.
Whats left before engine fireup is: 1. Finish wiring. 2. Connect cooling system 3. Add temporary fuel tank 4. Finish exhaust system
Since I have a extended Xmas break from work I plan on getting the engine running before the new year.
Update, I finished the wiring, or at least enough to start the engine. Still working on the exhaust system. I have the mufflers temporary mounted so I can route the exhaust. I got some exhust tips from a Cadillac and modified them for my exhaust, here is a couple of pics.
I got the Northstar running but I need help with the cooling system. I need to know which way does the coolant flow in and out of the Northstar. The coolant tube that is connected to the water log is the one that is getting hot. The one on the t-stat is cold. So it looks like its out of the water log (top of engine) and in to the t-stat. Can anyone confirm this. I read alot of Northstar build threads but came up with alot of conflicting and confusing info. Thanks!
I think figured it out. I basically have the cooling system from the Cadillac. I went to the scrap yard today to look at the stock cooling system in a cadillac. I had everything correct except the main cooling lines, I had them swapped. Looks like the intake is at the t-stat and the output at the top of the water log. I would have thought when the cooled water came in over the t-stat that would cause it to close. The temperture seemed to be stable around 195. Once I get a couple of lose end tied off I will post i video with sound. I think it sounds exotic with the 180 degree headers. I'm currently trying to get the charging system working.
Good news ! The cooling system is working and I got the charging system working also. The next thing I going to work on is the shifter and cables. The car was originally a auto so I already put in the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I also picked up cables from a manual fiero. I'm looking for a manual shifter to modify for this project, it doesn't have to be in good condition because it will be rebuilt and modified. So if anyone has a spare shifter please let me know. Here are some pics of the bundle of snakes (headers) in the car.
Notice the clear tube with antifreeze and a big air bubble coming out of the throttle body, I did this to see the burping process,. When the engine is running these bubbles go to the surge tank, eventually all the bubbles will go away. Then just open the surge tank and let all those nasty air bubbles escape.
Beautiful!! How much of a pain was it to get the Audi trans and gm motor to bolt up because I would love to use the 3.8 v6 but I was going for an Audi v6 just so I don't need an adapter or special starter... What do you think?
What I think your saying is that you want to connect a 3800 to a Audi transmission, right ? if that is the case the Kennedy Engineering sells the adapter for that combo. You can Google them. That was the adapter I started with because the Northstar and 3800 have the same transmission bolt pattern. Hope that helps.
I don't have a fancy shop or fancy tools. You can do alot with a welder and a sawzall when it comes to metal. The most precise thing was the adapter and I had to buy that and modify it. By the way I do not have alot of $$$'s either. For skils, anyone can learn those. And for technical questions, this is a great Forum to get them answered. This project, looking at the posts looks like I have been only working on it for a couple months but it has been about 3 years. If you have a project in mind please post your ideas and let the Fourm guide you through it. and thanks for the compliement !
Man, I gotta tell ya, especially now that you've posted the images of your custom headers...
I have to agree with Patrick those are some of the gutsiest mods I have soon done in a while. Doing a Northstar Fiero is hard enough compared to a 3800 or a 4.9, then you add the Audi trans, WOW, congrats on a great build.
------------------ 857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.
Thanks, Bubbajoe I already had that link bookmarked, there is alot of info there about Audi transmissions and heavily modified fieros. I am interested in the extra long cables, could you give me more info on them. Length, the ends, and price., thanks
Did you have to buy any special clutch or flexplate?
I am using the stock Audi flywheel, pressure plate and clutch. I had to make a spacer for the flywheel that went between the flywheel and crank of the engine. Also the flywheel bolt holes were filled and redrilled to match the Northstar. After all of that the pressure plate and flywheel were balanced to match the Northstar flexplate. I know I might need to upgrade the clutch and pressure plate later but the ones I started with were brand new. We will see if they hold up. Sorry I don't have any pics on any if this.
Not to much progress this week, I had to go back to the job that gives me money so I can do this. The only thing I got done was to get the tach calibrated to the V8. (thanks to all the great info on this forum) Still thinking about how I'm going to do the shifter. The way the northstars waterpump is on the back of the engine and my fancy headers I do not have to much room. I have a idea and I'm researching some parts. Hopefully I'll get something together soon.
Put in a search to see if anybody has done the strech on a Fiero and here you are COOL! I think you are doing an amazing job! Here is a photo chop for yah what about going wide body on your stretch?
That stretch is cool, I have a long time to get to that point. I"m still working on the shifter mechanics. Progress has slowed down in the winter months. The things that I need to do to get it moving on its own power are:
1. Hydrolic clutch 2. Throttle cable 3. Extending the rear brake line and installing the rear brakes. 4. Welding up and installing the axles 5. Gas tank plumbing
Wow I can count them on one hand. I hope the by the time I get these thing done the weather will break then I can do some of the body work outside.
There seems to be only two affordable transmissions that work for the longitutidal setup, they are the Audi and the Porsche. I looked for both locally and found the Audi firstand at the right price but I had to buy the whole car. It was in good shape and I drove it for couple of months before I took it apart. Some of the GT40 replica car guys use the Audi transmission. They are not the strongest transmissions but I don't plan on treating too bad.
[This message has been edited by Nebraska (edited 02-20-2013).]
The car is looking great! I really love that exhaust, I know this is kind of weird, but I think it is beautiful.
quote
Originally posted by Nebraska:
That stretch is cool, I have a long time to get to that point. I"m still working on the shifter mechanics. Progress has slowed down in the winter months. The things that I need to do to get it moving on its own power are:
1. Hydrolic clutch 2. Throttle cable 3. Extending the rear brake line and installing the rear brakes. 4. Welding up and installing the axles 5. Gas tank plumbing
Wow I can count them on one hand. I hope the by the time I get these thing done the weather will break then I can do some of the body work outside.
There seems to be only two affordable transmissions that work for the longitutidal setup, they are the Audi and the Porsche. I looked for both locally and found the Audi firstand at the right price but I had to buy the whole car. It was in good shape and I drove it for couple of months before I took it apart. Some of the GT40 replica car guys use the Audi transmission. They are not the strongest transmissions but I don't plan on treating too bad.
Good news and bad news. I got the shifter, clutch, and throttle cable working. The bad news is that I need to take the transmission out. When I press the clutch pedal a noise and vibration comes from the bellhousing area. I'm pretty sure what it is. Its not the throw out bearing. What I think it is, is the flywheel rubbing the adapter plate. I knew it was close but I didn't account for the endplay of the crankshaft. When I press the clutch it pushes the flywheel into the adapter, I think.
When I had the flywheel plugged and redrilled I also had a spacer made to set the flywheel at the right distance from the adapter plate and into the belhousing. When I originally mounted the flywheel onto the spacer it did not lay flat. The machine shop just ground down the plug welds with grinder. I took it back and had them machine the mounting surface flat. With the original spacer and the flywheel machined the space between the flywheel and adapter was closer than I wanted but there was enough room I thought. The problem is I didn't account for the endplay of the crank, I think. I guess I have to take it apart to see whats going on. I'll post pics of the misery when I get it apart.
