I can't remember exactly what the clearence was, but I do remember sliding a feeler gauge between the flywheel and adapter and thinking that it is really close.
I searched the internet to find the endplay of a northstar engine, and guess what I found here in this forum in Blooze Own: An F355 Six Speed N* Build Thread. This forum has so much information. The spec is .002" to .019" if anyone is interested.
when i make an adapter plate I always under cut where the flywheel sits to prevent this even ones made for the porsche are cut clean trough as i did with mine on the stretch
Since I did not document the trans/engine adaptation I guess I have a chance to do it now. It seems like I have to do eveything at least two times to get it right. Here is the modified adapter from Kennedy Engineering and the spacer and redrilled flywheel. I'm going to take Bubbjoes advice and machine clearance into the adapter for the flywheel. I measured the crankshaft enplay and it was .005"which is good, so I think I'll get .1" machined into the adapter just to be safe. Here are some pics before the machining.
Not to much progress this week, still waiting for my parts from the machine shop. While waiting and since I have the tranny out I decided to make strentghening plate for the tranny. The GT40 guys do this to make the tranny hold up to more HP. I'll post some pics when I get it done.
I got my parts back from the machine shop and started putting things back together, First was the strengthening plate for the transmission. I made the black plate from 1/4" plate steel and had the machine shop mill off 1/4" from the rear case. The steel plate is suppose to keep the iron casting from breaking out the back. All the force from the pinion gear is against a small area around the rear bearing in the iron casting. The steel plate will help support area. I read that this is the first thing that fails on this tranny. The next thing that fail is the axles. Then if you beef up the axles then the spider gears in the differential fail. My axles are half Audi and half Fiero. They would be easy to replace if they break. I would rather replace an axle than the transmission. Here are some pics of the tranny upgrade.
Done!
[This message has been edited by Nebraska (edited 03-21-2013).]
I had another issue when I removed the flywheel. The bolts were alot looser than I expexted. I forget what I torqued them to, but I think I over stretched them. Here is a pic of one of the bolts I removed compared to a new one. You can notice the deformed threads.
I did some searching on what type bolts other people used and how the torqued them. On bubbajoes build thread there was a interesting discussion on this subject. What was used there were 12.9 M8 Cap head bolt. I was looking for a hex head bolt because clearance is not a issue. The only place that I could find class 12.9 or greater bolts was Automotive Racing Products, ARP. They are chromoly and have a tinsile strength of 180,000 PSI. The size is M8 x 45mm 1.25 pitch. I'm going to torque them to the spec that are for the Northstar flexplate plus a little more. That spec is 11 lb-ft + 50 degrees. Here are the new bolts @ $3 each.
I got the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate installed and torqued down. Next I will be wrestling the transmission back in. Next time if I have to take out the tranny I think I will make a bracket to hold the engine in the car and drop the cradle and the tranny at the same time. here's a pic of the clutch installed.
Its back together again and it runs. That was a minor setback, but now I can start going forward. I welded up the axles and the next thing is to get the rear brakes fixed up. Here is pic of the axles, 1/2 Audi and 1/2 Fiero.
------------------ ~Michael '85 GT 4sp white - SOLD | | '85 2M6 Auto red - SOLD | | '84 2M4 bare chassis - SOLD Crap, I'm out of Fieros! Time to buy another!!
I got the parts to fixup the rear brakes. I leaving the rear distribution block in its stock location and making two new hard lines to each side. The rubber hoses will also be mounted in the stock location. Here are the goods.
I hit another snag, I got the new brake lines partially installed and figured I would try to loosen the bleaders while I had the calipers off the car. I soaked them for 2 days with PB Blaster then used a 6 point socket and gave it a few taps with a hammer and this what happened !
Looks like I will be drilling it out and hopfully without screwing up the threads.
I got the rear brakes installed and blead. Instalted one axle then called it a night, but tomarrow might be the day to see if it will move on its own power. I need to install the other axle and both rear control arms and wheels. I'm still using a temporary gas tank, but I want to get it outside and drive it in the driveway.
Looks like I will be drilling it out and hopfully without screwing up the threads.
Don't drill it if you have a welder. Turn the welder up and place a good weld bead on the top of the screw, then slide a 3/8" nut over it and fill it with weld. The welded nut gives you something to turn, plus all the heat from the welding process breaks loose the rusted bond.
I got it out of garage today. I did drive it up and down the driveway a few times just to check things out. Then.... I took it around the block with no major issues. I know the shifter needs some work and the brakes need re-blead. Man, that northstar is smooth compared to the 4 banger that was in it. Its also alot smoother the my 2.8 daily driver. Here are some pics outside. Does it look familar BubbaJoe ???
Ok, I think I need a little tuning in the 7730 ecm. It has a little stumble off idle which makes driving a manual tricky. The problem is I've never done anytype of tuning. I programmed the ECM from Ryan hesses bin file and thats all I've ever done with ecms. I've done some reading on the subject but I'm not looking to get every HP out of the engine, I just want smooth running reliable engine. I tried to contact a couple of the poeple on this forum but it seems the all the Northstar swappers are on to bigger and better things. Is there anyone out there that has tuned a 7730 ECM for a stock VIN Y Northstar or knows someone that has, and is willing to share some information.
Any help is will be appriciated ! Thanks, Nebraska
[This message has been edited by Nebraska (edited 04-01-2013).]
I'm doing some research on programming the ECU, in the mean time I hit the u-pull junkyard today. I knew they had a 88 fiero and wanted to get some parts before it gets stripped. It has a rusted cradle. Here is what I got.
The gauges are going into this project. I picked up the oil pressure and temp sensors and also the wiring pigtails. Since this is a 84 the wiring is going to be tricky. Its not prewired for all of the gauges. I already put in the tach and spedo, I had to modify and calibrate the tach for the 8 cylinder. The gauge pod is next (volts/oil). I'll be searching on the forum for the wiring.
Ok, I think I need a little tuning in the 7730 ecm. It has a little stumble off idle which makes driving a manual tricky. The problem is I've never done anytype of tuning. I programmed the ECM from Ryan hesses bin file and thats all I've ever done with ecms. I've done some reading on the subject but I'm not looking to get every HP out of the engine, I just want smooth running reliable engine. I tried to contact a couple of the poeple on this forum but it seems the all the Northstar swappers are on to bigger and better things. Is there anyone out there that has tuned a 7730 ECM for a stock VIN Y Northstar or knows someone that has, and is willing to share some information.
Any help is will be appriciated ! Thanks, Nebraska
Fantastic build first off! I too am running a VIN Y Northstar, but sadly it is still transverse. I also had problems with Ryan's 7730 $A1 tune. His tune is for the Vin 9 and way rich for a Y. I dyno tuned to get the VE tables resolved but never got several other issues figured out. I came to the conclusion that there is just too much missing from the modified $A1 file. I am in the process of switching to a 1227165 ECM running OSE$12P and an NVRAM board. You might want to consider this - I will be posting my success.
I had another issue when I removed the flywheel. The bolts were alot looser than I expexted. I forget what I torqued them to, but I think I over stretched them. Here is a pic of one of the bolts I removed compared to a new one. You can notice the deformed threads.
Those look like two completely different fasteners.
Its back together again and it runs. That was a minor setback, but now I can start going forward. I welded up the axles and the next thing is to get the rear brakes fixed up. Here is pic of the axles, 1/2 Audi and 1/2 Fiero.
Would there be an imbalance without having the shafts balanced by a driveline service?
FYI, the Fiero axle was machined down slightly to fit inside the Audi axle. I had to tap them together with a hammer, then welded. I'm pretty sure they are straight, so there should not be any imbalance unless I get it up to 500 mph.
Those Audi pods are stupidly strong too. I had a modified A4 a few years ago, and on a launch I sheered the bolts that hold the axle to the transmission. The car wouldn't send any power to the wheels in any gear, so I was worried it was the transmission. Towed it home, jacked it up, easy outed the bolts, off to the dealer for new ones, installed and took it for a drive. The trans is notorious for leaking, but strong as an ox.
The time has come to let this Fiero go to someone else that has the time to finish it. I have many of other Fiero parts that will go with it. I was thinking about $3000 for everything, I will post all the details in the mall. This has been a great project and would really like to see it completed.
Ok, I think I need a little tuning in the 7730 ecm. It has a little stumble off idle which makes driving a manual tricky. The problem is I've never done anytype of tuning. I programmed the ECM from Ryan hesses bin file and thats all I've ever done with ecms. I've done some reading on the subject but I'm not looking to get every HP out of the engine, I just want smooth running reliable engine. I tried to contact a couple of the poeple on this forum but it seems the all the Northstar swappers are on to bigger and better things. Is there anyone out there that has tuned a 7730 ECM for a stock VIN Y Northstar or knows someone that has, and is willing to share some information.
