Not gonna lie, I used a zip tie to attach the cable end to the TB. But other than that, the stock fiero cable snaps into the LX5 cable bracket. The cable bracket bolts to two of the holes that attach the throttle body to the adapter, and one threaded hole on the TB.
So I got my throttle cable hooked up. I used the universal cable stops from Napa. The outer diameter of the stop is 1/4 inch. I needed to enlarge the cable opening from 1/16 to 5/64 to get the cable to fit - No worry, about 1 minute with a drill bit and it was done.
I cut the end off the stock throttle cable and then used the stop. I had to modify the LX5 bracket quite a bit for the length to be right. The throttle cable is too short to use it as is. It would have probably been easier to make the bracket from scratch using some thin metal sheet.
Today I finished the cooling system setup. The driver's side hose that worked was (Napa) NBH 7902 from a 1990 Chevy Astro. The passenger side was the stock hose since I kept the Fiero accessory drive. HOWEVER...the corner of the block just behind the radiator hose inlet must be filed down or it will be impossible for ANY hose to fit. The 2.8 block must be a bit smaller or more rounded off here. It would have been an easy fix had I known earlier. Instead I was under the installed cradle with a tiny file. I finally got enough space there, but it sucked.
I filled the system with coolant by filling the radiator first, then filling the engine side using a flush tee installed on the heater line. Battery in...turned the key..no fuses popping, fuel pump primed. After unplugging the ignition module and fuel injection harness I tried cranking it and the engine cranked just fine. Big relief!
After plugging in the ignition module and fuel injection harness the engine still won't actually start. Some troubleshooting to do now.
It runs!! And it actually idles decently (lopes just a bit). I had my injector driver grounds unplugged by accident.
Got the struts back on, trying to figure out a clutch engagement problem now (I started a new thread about it). Almost there! thanks everyone for the help so far!
Been fixing some odds and ends, and working with Sinister Performance to get a proper tune done. I used a Moates USB cable and Tunerpro to log data.
Here is a view of the front side of the motor, notice the tight clearance between the oil filter and air conditioning muffler - not a problem, but close!
Here is the air induction I ended up with. The intake tube is from a 3400 SFI (which, strangely, fits over the LX5 throttle body). It includes a provision for the intake air sensor as well as the crankcase vent, which fits without modification. I slipped a piece of 2.5" PVC conduit in the other end with a BBK cone filter that my friend had lying around. I will need to make some kind of water shield to keep the filter from getting soaked when it rains.
The state of the interior.
Got the skeleton and climate control back in. FYI the climate control uses a single cable to control the hot air duct, and its retained by a single push retainer like this one:
I had a hard time finding a replacement. I eventually ended up with Mcmaster part # 96415A124 which fits and looks OEM, but had to buy a pack of 100. Oh well.
[This message has been edited by masospaghetti (edited 07-25-2013).]
Got my cruise control routed today. I was able to keep the servo mounted in the stock location and routed the cable like this:
It's kind of hard to see, but I added a simple L bracket to the existing throttle cable bracket for the cruise:
Nice new trunk seal installed, courtesy of Will Hammond - worksmanship appears to be top notch.
At the high pressure service port for the air conditioner, its required to add a pressure sensor in order to use the $A1 mask with the 7730. There is a mask that doesn't require it ($88) but per Darth Fiero / Sinister Performance, the code is older, has some bugs, and is less tunable. It's from a 91 Lumina, AC Delco part # 15-72104.
Finally got all of my EGR parts together. Here is the lower pipe assembly from a 99 Venture van:
And the shiny EGR adapter from TCE:
Together:
Note that the EGR lower pipe was not actually the correct one for this application. The offset between the pipe and flange bolts did not match the adapter (or the EGR valve). I had to weld a tab onto it and retap it. A big pain, basically.
I don't know what pipe is actually the correct one to use. The correct EGR base gasket though is Napa P/N 2-2567.
Here is the computer with the Moates APU1 adapter installed, ready to accept new chips from Sinister Performance:
I drove the car with the first burned chip today and it's worlds better than before. Idles nice and smooth and has a lot more power. Can't wait for the next round.
My air conditioning system came to life yesterday. Needless to say, I was excited that it all worked.
It seems too much of a coincidence, but my a/c power relay (the one that powers both the a/c clutch and the blower fan) just happened to go bad yesterday. I know because I was using the interior blower a few days ago when I was putting my interior back in.
I swapped the high-speed blower relay in its place (since they are identical part numbers) and sure enough, it worked!
So slowly but surely with help from Sinister Performance, the engine is running smoother and more powerful with each new chip. I'm on chip #7 ATM.
I had to disconnect the EVAP and EGR systems for now to get the tune dialed in, then they'll be switched back on.
The engine was relatively problem free until this morning when I blew a plug out of my thermostat housing, followed by a rapid coolant loss and a lot of steam. I'll probably have to tap the hole and install a threaded plug, instead of a simple expansion plug I had in there before.
[This message has been edited by masospaghetti (edited 10-07-2013).]
So slowly but surely with help from Sinister Performance, the engine is running smoother and more powerful with each new chip. I'm on chip #7 ATM.
I had to disconnect the EVAP and EGR systems for now to get the tune dialed in, then they'll be switched back on.
The engine was relatively problem free until this morning when I blew a plug out of my thermostat housing, followed by a rapid coolant loss and a lot of steam. I'll probably have to tap the hole and install a threaded plug, instead of a simple expansion plug I had in there before.
that would be a really good idea, or you could have a shop weld it up.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
that would be a really good idea, or you could have a shop weld it up.
Another thing you can do is use the port on the t-stat housing to feed an engine bay mounted surge tank. That way you end up with a nice easy way to fill from the engine bay and it should naturally get rid of any air locks.
Another thing you can do is use the port on the t-stat housing to feed an engine bay mounted surge tank. That way you end up with a nice easy way to fill from the engine bay and it should naturally get rid of any air locks.
You mean an extra surge tank, in addition to the forward mounted one? I haven't relocated the battery so there's only room for maybe a very small tank.
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Should run it well. Which $8D mask? Ive been using S_AUJP and it runs my ferd 302 and 2.8 almost flawlessly.
I'm not sure which $8D mask we are using. It appears that $A1 may not be flexible enough to appropriately dial in the fuel-air mix in the LX9 and has resulted in a flat spot during throttle tip in that we've not been able to get rid of.
I have that tip in problem on my A1 as well. I've reduced it to the point where it only goes down to 11:1 A/F by doing internet searches on the subject and editing a couple of tables. It definitely helped reduce my bogged launches at the track when I got it up to 11:1 ...was in the 9's...
I mean just run a surge tank in the engine bay and delete the overflow up front. I don't have cruise so that leaves more room in my car. The t-stat outlet is on the wrong side of the engine bay anyway to mount it in the battery tray. The G6 surge tank is fairly compact and is what I'll be trying.
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Originally posted by masospaghetti:
I'm not sure which $8D mask we are using. It appears that $A1 may not be flexible enough to appropriately dial in the fuel-air mix in the LX9 and has resulted in a flat spot during throttle tip in that we've not been able to get rid of.
You need to adjust the acceleration enrichment tables in $A1 to get rid of that flat spot. The stock tune makes it very rich and I believe the bigger 3400 injectors make for the problem you're having. I went through the same thing tuning my turbo car. But now I have a consistent transition. $A1 is VERY flexible.
[This message has been edited by bcampbell (edited 01-08-2014).]
Still working on the tune. The A/F table has been adjusted thoroughly but the problem still remains. The real problem is that its inconsistent - it only bogs maybe 1 out of 5 times and nothing so far has made sense.
Sometimes the fuel mix will go lean upon sudden throttle application and there's a noticeable bog. Usually the mix stays where it needs to be and the throttle response is fine. I've installed a heated O2 sensor, replaced the TPS, and gave the FPR a dedicated vacuum source, all which may have helped marginally. Fuel pressure is where it needs to be, approx 50 psi at idle, rises when throttle is applied.
Lou, which tables did you edit to fix your problem?
Still working on the tune. The A/F table has been adjusted thoroughly but the problem still remains. The real problem is that its inconsistent - it only bogs maybe 1 out of 5 times and nothing so far has made sense.
Sometimes the fuel mix will go lean upon sudden throttle application and there's a noticeable bog. Usually the mix stays where it needs to be and the throttle response is fine. I've installed a heated O2 sensor, replaced the TPS, and gave the FPR a dedicated vacuum source, all which may have helped marginally. Fuel pressure is where it needs to be, approx 50 psi at idle, rises when throttle is applied.
Lou, which tables did you edit to fix your problem?
I did some reading on "tip in" issues. I forget the names, it's been months now but I think the one that affected me the most was the one that multiplies/divides base pulse width based on TPS %... You probably need to calibrate your BPW vs. battery voltage...as well since your ECM was probably for a 3.1 and you slapped a 3500 on it and its initial injector pulses are way off...
EDIT: I just realized I didn't follow up about my throttle tip-in issues. AE was not the issue. As lou suspected, the injector constants were way off and at low pulse widths, the ECM was not able to accurately control fuel flow.
With the BPW data in hand from Fuel Injector Connection, the difference was obvious, and the tip in issues are gone. This is the data I used for table F33 (BPW offset vs fuel pump voltage). The other BPW offset table, F94 (BPW offset vs BPW) is zeroed out. Robert Saar was a tremendous asset in helping me dial in this tune and I owe a great deal to his knowledge of the 7730 ECM.
Car is running well, some minor adjustments since my last post. I'd be happy to share my tune if anyone is interested; it should work relatively well with a stock 3400/3500 application, or at least provide a good starting point for someone to work with. PM me if interested.
Thanks for the follow up. I wouldn't mind doing an LZ4 or LZ9 swap at some point. I may keep the OBDII. I really would like to keep the VCT. If I need the tune for the 7730, I may pester you. Thanks!
------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550 Praise the Lowered!
In theory you should be able to control VVT with a '7165 running $12p. I plan on testing this fairly soon. The '7165 is only 6 7 pins away from a stock Fiero ECM as a bonus.
