I'm in the parts collection stage right now. The block is getting machine work done right now. I have an iron super duty head with 1.7 roller rockers and weber carbs. I have to figure out the ignition system. This engine will be going into my Indy. Advice and encouragement is welcome! Heres the book I'm using:
Here's the head, edelbrock intake and valve cover:
Sounds awesome! Looking forward to hearing about your progress. Is that Cannon manifold for the SD head or something else? Are you planning on trying to run the Edelbrock manifold with a different carb as well?
Big question is Do you have the Block and Crank? That is a little needed item to make this happen :P heheeheh Will you run the single intake with a 2brl or the 2 duals?
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88 Formula CJB Arrived Finally. #689 of 1252 Time to start Working TONY! There are Two kinds of Fiero's : Notchies and Donors!
[This message has been edited by Kento (edited 02-28-2013).]
I have the block, crankshaft, pistons and a ton of other parts. Waiting for them to arrive and I will post pictures and get started. I have not decided which intake/carb setup to use yet most likely the webers.
That's the idea I had. I have to find a way to do it but need to have the engine in the car so I know how much room I have to work with.
Does anyone know if a crank from a merc. marine 3.0L engine would work?
I remember there used to be discussions on that way back when, and I think the answer was yes, with a LOT of machine work. I also remember KRP wanted $1800 for an SD4 crank last time I checked.
Well the block I purchased comes with a crankshaft but it needs to be repaired. If it can't be repaired I do have the 3.0 crankshaft from a merc. Engine.
I'd stick with the Webbers, but add a filter and pipe it into the side air intake so it isn't sucking in dirty, hot engine bay air.
I agree..but do yourself a favor, run it once through the gears with those velocity stacks right behind your ears. Its an intoxicating sound you don't often hear anymore..
The car used to be mine, the engine used to be Toddsters. Talk about an internal conflict waiting to happen. You could walk out in the garage one night and hear that thing arguing with itself about politics.
Do you have the 2nd or 3rd generation mercruiser crank? The 3rd has chevy rod bearing size, crank # 423-804957T01
I think it's an early mercruiser crank, I'll have to check. The crankshaft that came with the block is being checked to see if it can be repaired. Once I get all the parts here I'll be ordering gaskets and start putting it all together. Then it's time to pull the car apart, fix the rust, install the new suspension and the engine. I think I'm going to try painting the car myself too.
Which head are you using? I've got a 437 that I'm going to use on my 3.3. I had the head flow tested and here's the flow sheet. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/084256.html Valve sizes are 2.125 in, 1.6 ex. Your motor going to be NA or boosted ?
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85 GT 3.4 14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06 Unknown New 4T60/3.42
Ok, reading through the info I have it says there was a different head gasket for an iron head vs. the aluminum head. A search online for the part number turned up nothing. Any idea what gasket I should get?
Have a look at your head to see what you'll need on the exhaust side.
Header gaskets - there are two listed for the 2.5L (sometimes). More often that not, you'll only find the gasket for the stock Iron Duke.
Here's a pic of the exhaust ports on my SD4 aluminum cylinder head GM PN 10038433 Fel-Pro SD4 header gasket PN FPP-1441 is what matches the ports.
Here's a comparison of the difference in exhaust gaskets. The top one matches my SD4 head's exhaust ports, the lower is a stock Duke gasket.
While it will bolt on, a header built for the Iron Duke head actually blocks a portion of the exhaust port. You can see how by how much when the SD4 gasket is matched to the Duke gasket underneath.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-04-2013).]
So does that mean the crank I have will fit in the engine with no modification?
I picked up another cast iron Super Duty cylinder head and Edelbrock 2 barrel intake today. The smaller engine parts were shipped out and are on the way. The block is still at the machine shop and will be shipped with some of the larger parts once it's finished.
The one you have pictured will take the most modifying of the 3, and I don't know if it can even be done. Did you read all the thread I posted, it's probably the most informative.
I've been reading it on and off. Every time I start I have a screaming baby to take care of. I hope the super duty crankshaft I have is fixable because that would be the best.
I got some boxes in the mail yesterday. Had pistons, rods, clutch parts, bolts, ignition parts all kinds of stuff. Ill get some pictures later and post them. Still waiting on the block and crank.
I ordered one of the GM hardware kits from gmpartsdirect a few years back. It was in a bit of rough shape, but pretty much everything was usable. The lifter cover they sent was bent pretty well though. There were alot of steel parts that were in the white and had surface rust. If you can still get it, it's a really good deal.
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My Web page | The Turbo Super Duty Build. You know that little voice that says it can't be done? I duct-taped its mouth shut and pushed it down a flight of stairs. (Leader of the Insurgency)