Just did mine this way. The weatherstrips were $54 shipped and I got a couple feet of the window channel lining from Rubber The Right Way for $8 shipped. A couple bucks for rivets brought the total to about $66 bucks to do both sides.
I recovered the tabs with the mohair liner from Rubber the Right Way. I attached my pieces using 1# tinners rivets ground flat for clearance.
Installed
Looks great! Easy. Good tip with the proper rivets and felt. TY for posting that. Also JC whitney has the dew wipe material for $16 for a 4ft piece. However I am having trouble because the paper edition catalog part #'s don't come up online. IDK whats up with that.
I just ordered from JCW they took my paypal payment then two days later got an email they're out of stock and I'll get a refund in 2 to 7 days. sucks
Dang that chomps a hog. Could you post the part # for us please and TY? This will bring the price down, if they ever get more, by about $8 and it adds up quick round here!
Dang that chomps a hog. Could you post the part # for us please and TY? This will bring the price down, if they ever get more, by about $8 and it adds up quick round here!
Its FAI13694. Its made by Fairchild Industries and its called beltline weatherstrip
It will make very neat controlled holes. I have a cheap version I am using now and it's working great. A drill press would work but that drill bit is still going to walk some. Specially the elongated holes. I know the holes won't matter in the end but it does to me.
And as an aside my neighbor told his Monte Carlo buddy and guess what. He brought one over from his Monte. Same dew wipe material. Same scrape material. Different set up of tabs. But we can do it! We have had several meetings to look over the new materials. Sooo he told his El Camino friend and guess what....
I have one of those hole punches, different brand but same idea. I used it to punch holes on sheet metal to create "spot welds" while working on an old Mustang. It worked quite well.
Hey Andy just some food for thought on slotting those holes. http://www.harborfreight.co...l-bit-set-42804.html They work great for me to slot holes in my press but a hand drill isn't bad either lol. Those wipes look great my man, did you make up the curved bits or did ya find a supplier? I may get a set made up yet out of crap I dug up at my old job haha. I have waay to many irons in the fire as is and you aren't helping!
Hey Andy just some food for thought on slotting those holes. http://www.harborfreight.co...l-bit-set-42804.html They work great for me to slot holes in my press but a hand drill isn't bad either lol. Those wipes look great my man, did you make up the curved bits or did ya find a supplier? I may get a set made up yet out of crap I dug up at my old job haha. I have waay to many irons in the fire as is and you aren't helping!
Hey Jared, yeah I have something similar for the Dremel. Harbor Freight store round here is an hour away dang country living..
Here is another set I just finished and am packing up.
Piece of wood strapping to prevent bending and tons of bubble wrap.
Screw sets included for free! 10 of each type, 3 different types. Which ever you feel works best for you. Those factory screws you took out will probably be pretty junky after all this time. Never mind the ones you might have to dremel out.
Add a heavy duty cardboard shipping corner on the outside for even more rigidity. And they are ready to ship to a nice fellow in San Diego, Ca. Shipping will be around $13.
Sold this set for $65 plus shipping. And threw in the 3 sets of 10 screws ea. for free.
Folks you can easily do this yourselves. Just use the old ones for templates. Take the tabs and mirror tab off the old ones and refelt them. Stick em on your new ones and install.
Super easy to do. You don't need any special tools. Maybe a drill or a dremel. Cheap rivet gun from HF. Or borrow one. A little common sense and level 1 intuition is all that's needed. Don't be fooled into thinking this task is the great pyramids or anything. Really easy. Youll have a harder time installing them than anything else. If I can do this ANYONE can.
Hell I will lend my stuff out to anyone that needs it. Just pay shipping and then pass it along to the next person...IDK, but you CAN do this!!
Thanks for the info guys. I really appreciate it. Did anybody come up with a part number for rock auto ? Or was JCWhitney the preferred vendor ? Any idea if these can be found to be about 1/8" wider so they can be used on the early 84 Fieros to eliminate the gap between the wipe and the top of the door skin ? Thanks again guys.
The common number for the dew wipe material is MR260X, or the Cooper Standard# 75001369. If you google that number you will find many vendors that sell it for a wide range of pricing. Fairchild automotive is the Midwest distributor for Cooper Standard, the only company making this profile in the U.S. Fairchild will only sell to businesses so you would need a tax ID number and buy in bulk to purchase from them. A good place to get them from otherwise would be J&J auto fabrics out of California, or Restoration Specialties out of PA. Both have them for a reasonable price and ship quickly. There are 2 "guide blocks" that rivet next to the felt tabs, the profile number for them is: M224XP or the cooper # 75001625. These need to be purchased in 96" lengths and are more expensive than the dew wipes. They are cut into 3-5/8" lengths so you would get enough for 5 pair from 1 stick. They are solid and need to be drilled/punched to accept the rivets to attach them. The metal tabs are covered in a felt material which is probably worn out after 25 years. Many places also sell a felt material to recover them as well, although I was never able to find an exact match to the fuzzy OEM felt. I used a felt window guide tape used in the window tinting industry to cover plastic window guides so they wouldn't scratch the tint film. This is sold on 50' rolls and costs around $55 shipped. All the parts are riveted to the weatherstrips using a semi-tubular rivet (google it). This is different from a conventional pop rivet in that it is clinched between 2 dies instead of a stem being pulled up through the middle. The main difference is that the semi-tubular rivet sits flush with the back of the dew wipe which is needed because of how the dew wipe attaches to the door. A pop rivet will stick up from the dew wipe which will not allow the dew wipe sit flat against the door. Semi-tubular rivets can be had online for around $12 bucks per 100 plus shipping and the dies are around $50 for the pair. I used a modified arbor press with thw dies installed to clinch the rivets for my dew wipes. As far as making the holes for the rivets, a punch is the best way because a drill bit tends to wander a bit and the hole alignment is critical for proper fitment to the door. My very first pair I made for my own car was done using a drill and it didn't work so well. With the production run I did, I built a jig to hold to material in position so I could punch the holes and get them in the right spot every time. I had a couple hundred bucks in tooling plus the time in designing and fabricating my drilling and punching jigs to mass produce them and make the identical to the OEM ones.
The early 84 profile is no longer available, the closest thing to it is the MR260X profile. I'm sure a custom run could be done but it would be prohibitively expensive and require enough product be run to do every 84 Fiero ever made.
[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 08-22-2015).]
The common number for the dew wipe material is MR260X, or the Cooper Standard# 75001369. If you google that number you will find many vendors that sell it for a wide range of pricing. Fairchild automotive is the Midwest distributor for Cooper Standard, the only company making this profile in the U.S. Fairchild will only sell to businesses so you would need a tax ID number and buy in bulk to purchase from them. A good place to get them from otherwise would be J&J auto fabrics out of California, or Restoration Specialties out of PA. Both have them for a reasonable price and ship quickly. There are 2 "guide blocks" that rivet next to the felt tabs, the profile number for them is: M224XP or the cooper # 75001625. These need to be purchased in 96" lengths and are more expensive than the dew wipes. They are cut into 3-5/8" lengths so you would get enough for 5 pair from 1 stick. They are solid and need to be drilled/punched to accept the rivets to attach them. The metal tabs are covered in a felt material which is probably worn out after 25 years. Many places also sell a felt material to recover them as well, although I was never able to find an exact match to the fuzzy OEM felt. I used a felt window guide tape used in the window tinting industry to cover plastic window guides so they wouldn't scratch the tint film. This is sold on 50' rolls and costs around $55 shipped. All the parts are riveted to the weatherstrips using a semi-tubular rivet (google it). This is different from a conventional pop rivet in that it is clinched between 2 dies instead of a stem being pulled up through the middle. The main difference is that the semi-tubular rivet sits flush with the back of the dew wipe which is needed because of how the dew wipe attaches to the door. A pop rivet will stick up from the dew wipe which will not allow the dew wipe sit flat against the door. Semi-tubular rivets can be had online for around $12 bucks per 100 plus shipping and the dies are around $50 for the pair. I used a modified arbor press with thw dies installed to clinch the rivets for my dew wipes. As far as making the holes for the rivets, a punch is the best way because a drill bit tends to wander a bit and the hole alignment is critical for proper fitment to the door. My very first pair I made for my own car was done using a drill and it didn't work so well. With the production run I did, I built a jig to hold to material in position so I could punch the holes and get them in the right spot every time. I had a couple hundred bucks in tooling plus the time in designing and fabricating my drilling and punching jigs to mass produce them and make the identical to the OEM ones.
The early 84 profile is no longer available, the closest thing to it is the MR260X profile. I'm sure a custom run could be done but it would be prohibitively expensive and require enough product be run to do every 84 Fiero ever made.
